Israel

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ISRAEL

State of Israel

Major Cities:
Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa

Other Cities:
Acre, Beersheba, Bethlehem, Elat, Hadera, Holon, Nablus, Nazareth, Netanya

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated April 1993. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

The modern State of ISRAEL was created in 1948 after more than a half-century of Zionist efforts to provide a homeland for dispersed Jews. The official design for this new nation was formed in 1917 with the Balfour Declaration, which avowed the British Government's support of a Jewish homeland in Palestine. Other countries, including the United States, upheld the declaration and, after World War I, the United Kingdom assumed the Palestine Mandate.

Nazi persecution of Jews during the 1930s and 1940s increased the incentive for immigration to Palestine, and international support grew for the establishment of a Jewish nation. In November 1947, the United Nations adopted a plan to divide the area into Arab and Jewish states but, as the end of the mandate approached, discord between the two segments of the population of Palestine degenerated into civil war.

The State of Israel was proclaimed on May 14, 1948. The years since then have been marked with tension, border disputes, and open warfare—interspersed with cease-fire agreements and internationally sponsored peace talks. Anxieties remain about immediate possibilities for a negotiated solution.

MAJOR CITIES

Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is Israel's second largest city (after Jerusalem), with a population of 349,000 in a metropolitan area of well over one million. Located approximately midway on Israel's Mediterranean coast, the city is bounded on the north by the small Yarkon River and on the south by the ancient city of Yafo (Jaffa). Between Tel Aviv and the city of Haifa to the north, numerous small communities give the appearance of a megalopolis interspersed with farms and sand dunes.

Tel Aviv was founded in 1909 as a Jewish suburb of the Arab town of Yafo. The city grew rapidly, and quickly became the financial and commercial center of Israel. Banks, insurance companies, and business firms have their main offices in Tel Aviv/Yafo. Manufacturing firms, a new university, research activities, and the international airport give the feeling of living in a bustling metropolis. The pace of the city is Mediterranean with its hectic traffic, sidewalk cafés, and crowded, noisy streets; but the newness and lack of greenery and open space set it apart from most Mediterranean locations.

Tel Aviv began as a garden suburb and, without apparent thought or planning, it expanded. As a result, streets are narrow and buildings are crowded together. Among these are some modern glass and concrete office towers, including the tallest building in the Middle East. In the newer parts of the city, improved construction and planning can be seen. Renovations have been made on the main beach-front, and a mosaic promenade installed. People stroll here on weekend evenings, or sit at the cafés.

The Jewish Sabbath, Shabbat, begins late Friday afternoon and ends after sundown on Saturday. All banks and business firms are closed during that time, as is public transportation. Some restaurants remain open. Radio and television stations operate on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, with the exception of Yom Kippur, when all commercial (and vehicular) traffic ceases. Sunday is a regular working day for Israelis.

The American Embassy is in Tel Aviv. Although Israel claims all of Jerusalem as its capital, the United States and most countries which maintain diplomatic relations with Israel accept only West Jerusalem in a de facto sense as the working capital. They regard the international status of Jerusalem as still undecided, pending final peace treaties between Israel and its Arab neighbors. Therefore, most countries maintain their embassies and legations in Tel Aviv, although they transact much of their business with Israeli Government offices in Jerusalem.

Schools for Foreigners

Walworth Barbour American International School in Israel (WBAIS), a U.S. Government-sponsored institution, provides instruction from kindergarten through high school. Enrollment represents the international community; only a small minority are Israeli, many of these recent immigrants are from South Africa, the U.S., and other English-speaking countries.

Hebrew instruction is mandatory in third grade, after which it is optional. Instruction in French can begin in the seventh grade. During the four years of high school, emphasis is placed on college preparation; French and Hebrew are also offered. Science laboratories are well equipped and the teaching staff, chiefly U.S. immigrants, is strong in all departments. Supplementary language instruction and other subjects are available if there is adequate demand. The library, directed by a professional librarian, is adequate, and constantly adds new books and audio/visual materials.

Extracurricular activities at WBAIS include gymnastics, basketball, soccer, softball, and field hockey. There are a modern playing field, an excellent gym/auditorium, outdoor basketball courts, and an art center.

The school is directed by a board consisting of U.S. Government officials, Israelis, and other American and foreign members.

Several other educational facilities are available to foreign residents of Tel Aviv, including British and French schools. The British school, Tabeetha, sponsored by the Church of Scotland, prepares students for entrance to British universities. The school can offer the equivalent of a U.S. high school curriculum, but the grades available each year vary. French, German, and Hebrew are taught, and classes are conducted in preparation for the British A-level examinations in both the sciences and humanities, depending on demand.

In Israeli society, all children attend compulsory preschool, starting at five years of age. Private preschools, or gans, may accept children as young as 18 months. The gans are adequate to excellent, and are staffed by well-trained teachers. They operate six mornings a week within a flexible attendance schedule.

Special Opportunities

Tel Aviv offers special education facilities for handicapped children and those with learning disabilities. Walworth Barbour School has provided special teachers and instruction for several students, including blind and moderately learning-disabled children. English-speaking physical and speech therapists are listed with the medical advisor at the American Embassy. Severely handicapped children, however, may have difficulty finding schooling.

Most university courses in Israel are in Hebrew, but the Hebrew University in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv University, and Bar-Ilan University offer some courses in English.

The French and German embassies regularly sponsor both intensive daytime and weekly evening language classes. Teachers are available for many Eastern and Western European languages.

Many opportunities are available for those who wish to learn Hebrew. In addition to embassy language programs, there is a six-month course in Hebrew for the diplomatic community, sponsored by the Tel Aviv municipality. Those with more time or greater dedication can use the ulpanim, language-instruction centers run privately or by the Israeli Government; classes average four hours a day, five or six days a week; day sessions last up to six months. Evening courses are also available. The ulpanim and the Tel Aviv municipality course teach not only the spoken language, but also reading and writing.

Recreation

Swimming is possible here about eight months of the year and even year round for the hardy. Tel Aviv and nearby coastal suburban areas have beaches, but these are generally crowded and sometimes have tar. Some very attractive beaches are about an hour's drive north or south of the city. Bathing is prohibited at unguarded beaches because of a dangerous undertow, but this does not hinder popular seaside picnics from April to November.

The large, public saltwater pool in Tel Aviv and several freshwater pools in nearby Ramat Gan are usually crowded. Hotels in Tel Aviv and Herzliyya, as well as the Kfar Shmaryahu Community Club, have large pools. The Tel Aviv Country Club, five minutes north of the city, has excellent sports facilities, a double, Olympic-size freshwater pool (heated in winter), 11 tennis courts, and a large gym.

Skin diving, fishing, snorkeling, water-skiing, and scuba diving are also popular in Israel. Diving classes, with instruction in English, are given in Tel Aviv and at Red Sea resorts.

Small boats can be rented for the day in Haifa and on the Sea of Galilee at Tiberias. Skin divers can explore interesting underwater ruins off the coast of Caesarea. The Gulf of Aqaba, off Elat, has an incredible variety of tropical fish and coral reefs; an excursion by glass-bottom boat to see these is enjoyable. Elat also offers excellent skin diving, water-skiing, scuba diving, and snorkeling.

Israel has a golf course, located at Caesarea, 45 minutes north of Herzliyya. Near Tel Aviv, there are riding stables; a ranch north of Tiberias in the hills of Galilee offers trail riding. One ranch in the hills of Galilee runs guided horseback tours with camping and Western-style dining. Horse shows are frequent.

Hunters find a variety of game, including partridge and wild boar, but duck and geese are scarce. It is illegal to shoot gazelle. Hunters are permitted to shoot up to 10 game birds a day during the September-February hunting season. Guns of any caliber can be licensed in Israel, but hunting with guns of "military caliber" (larger than .22) is prohibited. Twelve-gauge shotguns and .22-caliber rifles are recommended, since ammunition for these sizes is more available in Israel. Ammunition costs more than in the U.S.

The most popular recreational activity here is touring. Israel is rich in history and archaeology. An advantage of a small country is that excursions can be made to almost any location in one or two days. Tour buses throughout Israel take in ruins, Crusader castles, old Roman and Phoenician cities, and biblical sites, as well as modern towns.

Occasionally, arrangements have been made for volunteers to join archaeological digs. Some search for old coins and artifacts on weekends. An archaeology class in English, including excursions, is offered at Tel Aviv University.

For hiking enthusiasts, a four-day, cross-country march to Jerusalem is held each spring, yielding stories enough to last the rest of the year. Hiking in the mountains of Galilee is excellent; it is especially beautiful in spring, when the view from every mountaintop compensates for the climb. One of the most popular outings is to Mount Tabor, where a monastery at the summit serves meals and runs a guest house (by reservation). One can either drive up the mountain by winding roads or climb straight up; the climb takes about an hour.

Without detracting from the splendor of Jerusalem or the lovely setting of Haifa, the beauty of Israel lies not only in its cities, but in the land. From rich northern greenery to rugged southern deserts, the land is for exploring, strolling, picnicking, and mere enjoyment. For added pleasure, in harmony with the natural beauty are sites with histories dating from the Crusades and biblical times. Some spots connect with Israel's modern history and striking development. Among the places recommended are:

About an hour north of Tel Aviv, on a main highway, is Caesarea. This ancient, partially excavated city was founded by King Herod and was the Roman capital in Palestine. A long aqueduct from Roman times parallels the beach. The Roman theater hosts visiting artists during the summer music festival. Between these two remnants of ancient times is a Crusader city. The wall and moat are almost intact; inside the wall, much original pavement and several buildings have been preserved.

About one-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv, is Megiddo. Archaeologists have uncovered 20 superimposed cities here. The lowest stratum dates back to the fourth millennium B.C.; the most recent one from the fourth century B.C. Megiddo was an ancient fortress and played a role in defending the country against Thutmose III. Later, it was one of Solomon's "cities for chariots." The Hill of Megiddo in Hebrew is Har Megeddon —the biblical Armageddon.

Tiberias, some two-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv, is a winter resort on the Sea of Galilee. The drive to Tiberias through the hills of Galilee is probably one of the most beautiful in the world. The whole area around Tiberias is famous from the New Testament; Capernaum, Jesus' city, is nearby, as is the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount.

Acre ('Akko) is about two hours from Tel Aviv. It is an Arab town and, like Nazareth, is a reminder that Israel is indeed part of the Middle East. On the Lebanese border, a half-hour north, are the grottoes of Rosh Hanikra. The road heading east along the border is particularly beautiful.

The Galilee is within three hours of Tel Aviv. The area has some of the best scenery year round, and has such interesting sights as the Crusader castle at Montfort, the ancient synagogue at Bar'am, the nature preserve at Tel Dan, and numerous kibbutzim which, until 1967, were frequently under Syrian artillery fire. To the east, within the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights, are the Banyas Waterfalls, the crater at Birkat Ram, and Mt. Hermon, where skiing is possible several months of the year.

The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on earth. On its southern shore is the infamous Sdom (the biblical Sodom), which is now the site of Israel's Dead Sea Works where salt and chemicals are extracted from the sea. A few miles north of Sdom is the well-preserved and-excavated mountain fortress of Masada, where Jewish defenders held off the Roman siege in the first century A.D. The climb to the top is a must for the hardy, but a cable car is also available. Farther north is the oasis of Ein Gedi—lush greenery amid the desert. A waterfall at Ein Gedi creates a pool which is excellent for swimming.

The Negev. Beersheba, 66 miles from Tel Aviv, is the gateway to the Negev. The city has historical interest as the home of Abraham. To the south are the ruins of Shivta and Avdat. At Avdat, a Byzantine church and Roman acropolis were superimposed on an ancient Nabatean foundation.

In touring and traveling, visitors should not drive through strictly religious towns or sections of cities on Friday night or Saturday, nor drive anywhere on the Day of Atonement, Yom Kippur.

Entertainment

In addition to its major theaters, orchestras, and museums, Israel has several repertory theaters as well as amateur and professional groups. Plays are performed in Hebrew, but many are familiar works translated from other languages, and some programs provide an English synopsis. Theater in English is sometimes possible to find from time to time. Internationally known entertainers in all fields appear frequently. Some plays are performed with simultaneous translation in English, available through earphones.

Tel Aviv has several movie theaters, including a drive-in. Recent American and European films are shown in the original language, with subtitles in Hebrew and English or French. To avoid waiting in line to buy tickets, one can buy them in advance from a booking agency located near the U.S. Embassy.

Yafo (Jaffa), directly south of Tel Aviv, abounds in nightclubs, cafés, and other evening diversions. The renovated artists' quarter glows by night; most little shops and galleries in the Old City remain open late into the evening.

The celebrations for Purim, the Feast of Esther, each spring include folk dancing and popular street entertainment, costume parties, and a beaux arts ball in the artists' colony of Ein Hod (near Haifa). A week-long Passover music festival is held at Kibbutz Ein Gev on the Sea of Galilee, and a festival of Christian liturgical music is given at Abu Gosh (near Jerusalem) in May. Each summer, the Israel Festival of Music and Drama brings outstanding groups and individual artists from many countries, especially from the U.S.

The Israelis are friendly and hospitable. They often entertain late in the evening by American standards, and enjoy having guests in for drinks (most Israelis prefer juice or soft drinks to alcohol), conversation, and coffee. There are many opportunities for resident foreigners to attend seders, bar mitzvahs, and weddings.

Most Israelis are not particularly observant of religious customs, but they may have special sensitivities nonetheless. Consideration should be taken in entertaining them, such as providing alternatives to pork and shellfish, and refraining from issuing invitations on Jewish holidays. If Israelis decline food or drink at any time, it is not an insult, but merely a matter of conscience. It is entirely acceptable to inquire in advance whether one's guests, either Jewish or Muslim, observe dietary restrictions.

Jerusalem

Jerusalem, Israel's capital and largest city, is situated in the Judean Hills about 40 miles from the Mediterranean, at an altitude of 2,710 feet. The physical setting is dazzling. On a clear day it is possible to look to the east and see the Dead Sea (1,300 feet below sea level), the Jordan Valley, and the Mountains of Moab.

Jerusalem's population is about 622,000 (including East Jerusalem, annexed in 1967). It includes a variety of cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds—Palestinian Arabs, Israelis, Armenians, Druze, Samaritans, and Bedouins. The languages are as varied as the population. Hebrew and Arabic serve as the official languages, and English is the most commonly spoken foreign tongue. Most street signs are printed in these three languages.

Present-day Jerusalem is divided into three areas: The Walled City (with its Christian, Muslim, Jewish and Armenian quarter) and West (Israeli) and East (Arab) Jerusalem.

The Walled City, a relatively small area covering less than a square mile, is the religious, emotional, and touristic heart of Jerusalem. Contained within the enclosure are the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, David's Tower, Via Dolorosa, Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque, and other religious, historic, and archaeological sites.

The narrow streets and bazaars of the Walled City are often thronged with pilgrims, tourists, and residents going about their daily business. Immediately to the east, across the Kidron Valley, is the Mount of Olives, the lower reaches of which contain the Garden of Gethsemane.

West Jerusalem is that part of the city controlled by the Israeli Government prior to June 1967, and has a population that is almost entirely Jewish Israeli. It is a mixture of older stone houses, vast modern housing developments, government ministries, and educational and cultural institutions. Most shops, theaters, restaurants, and commercial institutions are located here.

Jerusalem was proclaimed the nation's capital in a 1950 resolution, but is not considered as such by the United Nations. The American Foreign Service maintains its embassy in Tel Aviv and, in addition, has one of its two independent consular posts in Jerusalem—the only other is in Hong Kong. The U.S. consular district in Jerusalem also includes the West Bank of the Jordan River. Most of the Arab population in East Jerusalem and the West Bank is Muslim, but substantial concentrations of Christians live in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Ramallah and environs.

Jerusalem has vast emotional and symbolic significance for Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It is a short walk from the Dome of the Rock (the third holiest site in Islam) to the Western Wall (the western wall of the Second Temple platform—once known as the Wailing Wall), and to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (the site of Christ's tomb). Religion is an important element in city life, and religious holidays of the three major faiths are felt and observed as in no other city on earth. The Palestinian population is about 93 percent Muslim (mostly Sunni) and approximately seven percent Christian (of various sects, but mainly Greek Orthodox). Judaism, in varying degrees of orthodoxy, is practiced by the Jewish population.

Jerusalem contains many of the most important Jewish, Muslim, and Christian shrines in the world. The Walled City is a showplace of outstanding examples of Islamic, Byzantine, Crusader, and Ottoman architecture. A wealth of museums exists, ranging from the general interest Israel Museum (which includes an extensive archaeological display, sculpture garden, and children's wing) to special interest collections (archaeological, Islamic, and Palestinian) and Yad Vashem, a museum commemorating Holocaust victims. Windows painted by Marc Chagall, depicting the 12 tribes of Israel, are displayed at Hadassah Medical Center in Ein Kerem, on the outskirts of Jerusalem. The Rockefeller Museum offers a lecture series, and the Israel Museum hosts programs, films, and classes for children and adults.

Archaeological sites, excavated and unexcavated, are abundant throughout the area. The Albright School of Oriental Research, the British School of Archaeology, and the Institute of Archaeology at Hebrew University are but a few of the many centers located in Jerusalem.

Theological centers and schools, such as the Tantur Ecumenical Institute and the American Institute for Holy Land Studies, defy enumeration. École Biblique (famous for the Jerusalem Bible) has specialists in a number of fields, including archaeology and the Bible. Most of these institutions offer formal and informal courses and lecture series on a variety of topics.

The main campuses of Hebrew University, Hebrew Union College, and the Bezalel School of Arts and Crafts are located in Jerusalem. Most courses are taught in Hebrew. On the West Bank, Bethlehem and Bir Zeit Universities offer many courses in English; Najah University in Nablus and the Hebron University offer courses in Arabic.

Recreation

About a million tourists visit Israel annually, and most find their way to Jerusalem. There are scores of hotels, hospices, hostels, shops, travel agencies, and restaurants catering primarily to the tourist trade.

The climate is mild, with a long summer (May to October) of warm days and cool nights and a chilly, often rainy winter (November to March). Summer temperatures seldom rise above 85°F. Humidity is low and mildew is rare. In winter, temperatures average 55°F, with occasional drops to freezing. Sometimes Jerusalem gets a ham'seen, or sandstorm. These occur infrequently and are not as strong as in other parts of the Middle East.

The drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem through the Judean hills is beautiful, with several interesting places to stop along the way. The countryside changes with every season: barren in winter, bright with green fields and blossoming flowers in spring, and parched in summer. In the city itself is the Israel Museum with its collection of Dead Sea Scrolls, the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden, and fascinating exhibits within the main buildings. The Israeli Government buildings, Hadassah Hospital, the Kennedy Memorial, Mt. Herzl, and the scale model of the old city are all worthwhile. Mt. Zion, with King David's tomb and the room of the Last Supper, are outside the confines of The Walled City.

Plane connections from Ben Gurion Airport (about an hour's drive from Jerusalem at Lod, near Tel Aviv) are available to principal European cities, Cyprus, and the U.S. Travel by ship is also possible from Israel to Cyprus and to various other Mediterranean ports.

Sight-seeing, picnicking, and amateur archaeology are by far the most popular pastimes in and around Jerusalem, where short, half-day trips can be planned. Many organized tours are available for a modest fee; these tours go to almost every part of the country, and guides are usually competent.

Numerous places of archaeological and religious interest are within a few hours' drive of Jerusalem. Bethlehem is a 15-minute ride from the city. Nablus, home of the Samaritans and the site of the Roman city, Sebastia, is an hour's drive. Jericho, one of the world's oldest inhabited cities and a winter resort for Jerusalem's Arabs, is located near the Dead Sea, less than an hour away.

The religious sites at Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee are less than three hours from Jerusalem by bus or car. The ancient port of Caesarea, with extensive ruins, a bathing beach within its Old City, and an excellent golf course, is two hours away; Elat (or Eilat), five hours by car or bus or 40 minutes by plane, is a popular Red Sea resort, particularly in the fall or spring when the weather is not so warm.

Both Israel and the West Bank abound in historical sites ranging from the biblical to the Crusader period. Jericho, Masada, Lachish, Hazor, Megiddo, Gezer, Sebastia, Caesarea, Ashkelon, Hebron, and Acre ('Akko) are a few of the many places of significance for those interested in the area's history. Most can be seen in a day; reasonable and adequate hotel facilities can be found for longer trips.

Traditional Palestinian handicraft activity (embroidery, olive wood carving, mother-of-pearl, and gold work) are centered around the Jerusalem and Bethlehem areas.

Except for soccer, which is quite popular, organized team sports are not common in Jerusalem. The YMCA and YWCA (and YMJA and JMWA) do, however, offer excellent facilities for swimming, tennis, squash, volleyball, basketball, and gymnastics. Membership fees are modest. These organizations have summer day camps for children seven to 14 years of age with swimming, gym, outdoor games, handi-crafts, and outings.

Several attractive, clean swimming pools are in and around Jerusalem. Hotel pools offer seasonal or daily memberships. Ocean bathing at Mediterranean resorts (about an hour or two from the city) is popular. Resorts on the Dead Sea are open all year.

Horseback riding is available in Jerusalem. Hunting for birds and wild boar is permitted in Galilee and Golan, but not on the West Bank. Snorkeling and scuba diving are available at Elat, where the coral reefs and fish are magnificent.

Entertainment

Jerusalem's first-class concert hall features performances by internationally renowned artists and by the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra. There are also several art galleries, theaters, and dance studios in the city.

Movies are a popular form of evening entertainment. The city's movie theaters are somewhat spartan, but feature many American and English films. There is also a Cinematheque, and the Israel Museum and the Jerusalem Theatre run art films.

Israel's Philharmonic Orchestra plays regularly in the Jerusalem Concert Hall during winter and spring, and features many world-famous conductors and renowned guest artists throughout the season. The Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra and excellent chamber music groups also perform.

Although the city is not generally considered a gourmet's paradise, several hotels and restaurants are satisfactory. Some of the larger hotels offer unique atmosphere and good cuisine; a few have piano bars, or dancing on designated evenings.

Photography is popular in Israel. Local processing of black-and-white film is satisfactory, but color film should be developed in the U.S. Photographers should be wary of taking pictures of Orthodox Jews or traditionally dressed Arabs, especially if they are at worship.

A number of holidays in both Israel and the West Bank offer interesting festivities. In the Arab sector of Jerusalem, the pilgrimages and ceremonies of the Eastern and Western churches during the Christmas and Easter seasons are impressive, and the Samaritan Passover at Nablus is an unusual event. In Israel, Purim (or Carnival) is celebrated by young and old in costume. Passover is commemorated by seder, or ritual family dinner.

A substantial American community lives in Jerusalem and on the West Bank. It includes American Jews immigrating to Israel, U.S. citizens of Palestinian-Arab ancestry who have come here to retire, and Americans who are in Jerusalem temporarily on work-related assignments or for religious or cultural reasons. Because of the variety in backgrounds and interests, this community is loosely knit.

Haifa

Haifa is in northwest Israel, about one-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv. The nation's principal port, with a current population of 264,000, it spreads inland from the Bay of Haifa up the western slope of Mount Carmel. The view of the city and the bay from above is unforgettable.

Most of Israel's heavy industry is concentrated in Haifa—steel mills, an oil refinery, chemical plants, and cement and glass works. It is also the site of a naval base. Haifa was called Sycaminum in ancient times, but its most interesting history dates from just after World War II, when it was the center of illegal Jewish immigration into Palestine.

Among the places of interest here are the Museum of Antiquities, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Ethnological and Folklore Museum. The Technion, a technical institute and Israel's premier engineering school was established in 1924 and Haifa University was founded in 1963. The world headquarters of the Baha'i faith are located above Haifa, within extensive gardens.

OTHER CITIES

ACRE (in Hebrew, 'Akko) lies on the Mediterranean, nine miles northeast of Haifa. This seaport's economy is comprised of light industry, steel rolling mills, and fishing. The last stronghold of the Crusaders, Acre was the capital of the Latin Kingdom from 1191 to 1291. The Hospitaller Quarter here contains one of the world's oldest buildings, the Crypt of St. John, dating to at least the mid-13th century. Today called Crusader City, the subterranean structures were unearthed in the 1950s and 1960s. The Bedouin sheikh, Daher el-Omar, built a virtually impregnable fortress over its remains, and restored Acre's walls, some of which still stand. Napoleon was forced to abandon his eastern campaign when he met with stiff resistance in the city after piercing its walls in 1799. The old prison of the British Mandate era now houses a Museum of Heroism; the Municipal Museum has ancient archaeology and folklore collections. On the edge of town is the burial ground of the prophet of the Baha'i faith, Baha'u'llah (1817-1892), who spent the last years of his life in exile here. Acre has been described as dilapidated, with an unsanitary appearance. Its population is approximately 46,000.

BEERSHEBA (in Hebrew, Be'er Sheva'; in Arabic, Bir es Saba), "the City of Abraham," is the capital of the Southern Region, situated 45 miles southwest of Jerusalem. With approximately 160,000 residents, it is a busy, modern industrial and educational center, and the largest city in the Negev, a desert region. Chemicals and glass are its main products. Ben Gurion University opened here in 1965, and has been the site of important negotiations with Egypt. Israel targeted the area for settlement in the late 1940s; today Beersheba has a futuristic look. History and tradition are preserved in Tel Sheva, or biblical Beersheba, where tourists visit excavations and the Museum of the Desert. The Hebrew patriarch Abraham is said to have pitched his tent on the tel (a mound formation marking an ancient city), eight miles outside of town. Abraham's Well is a tourist stop, as is the Bedouin camel market, held Thursday mornings.

BETHLEHEM , the birthplace of Jesus Christ, is located a little over 6 miles south of Jerusalem. Once a stopping place on an ancient caravan route, the town hosted a variety of cultures, such as Canaanite, Byzantine, Arab, Islamic, Persian, Turkish, and later, British. The artistic and religious traditions of these various groups can be seen in the varied architectural styles around town.

The Church of the Nativity, located in Manger Square at town center and believed by many to be built on the actual site of Jesus' birth, is the one of world's oldest operating churches. Other sites of note include the Milk Grotto Chapel, a shrine to the Virgin Mary, and Rachel's Tomb, one of Judaism's most sacred shrines. Visitors can also walk through the Shepherds' Field in Beit-Sahour, believed to be the site of the angel's announcement to the shepherds of the birth of Jesus. Solomon's Pools, which have provided Bethlehem and Jerusalem with water throughout the past 2000 years, are nearby as are several desert monasteries begun by early Christians.

Today, Bethlehem is primarily a farm market town which is also well-known for industries in olive wood carvings and mother-of-pearl jewelry.

Several bus tours are offered through the city, many originating for Jerusalem, which is only about 40 minutes away. Both guided and self-guided walking tours are very popular in town. The population of Bethlehem is about 137,286 (1997 est.).

ELAT (Eilat), 212 miles from Tel Aviv, is the southernmost point in Israel and its only port on the Red Sea. The harbor is bordered on both sides by mountains: the Sinai range on one side and the Jordanian mountains of Edom on the other. The city, with a population of more than 43,000, is a major tourist attraction and winter resort with swimming, boating, water-skiing, fishing, skin diving, and a world-famous aquarium and underwater observatory. Just south of Elat in the occupied Sinai desert, is a Scandinavian-type fjord and the beautiful Coral Island. Farther along the coast of the peninsula, down to Sharm-el-Sheikh, are fine beaches with tropical fish and coral, for swimming and outstanding snorkeling and skin diving.

HADERA , located 26 miles south of Haifa, is a principal service center for nearby villages, and a processing hub for local agricultural products. Jewish settlement groups founded the community in 1890. Malaria killed many of the settlers, but a few survived to drain the marshlands. These were breeding grounds for the mosquitoes and source of the Arabic name, Hadra, meaning "the green one." The ancient Turkish khan, or rest house, near the central synagogue, has an exhibit of pioneer-era history. The current population is 76,000.

HOLON , in central Israel, has been a city since 1941. It is part of the Tel Aviv metropolitan area, and in recent years has grown considerably; it now has a population of 163,000. Holon is noted particularly for its silverware, and for the textile factories which contribute to its expanding economy.

NABLUS (also spelled Nābulus; in Hebrew, Schechem) is the largest city in the Israeli-occupied West Bank, with an estimated population over 80,000. Situated 30 miles north of Jerusalem, this is the religious center of the Samaritans, as well as the focal point of Arab nationalism in the region. Nearby, on the eastern slope of Mount Gerizim, is Jacob's Well, where Jesus met the woman of Samaria. In the same area, German archaeologists discovered remains of the biblical Sichem on Tel Balata. Other prominent sites include the mosques of Jāmi'al-Kabir and Jāmi' an Nasr.

NAZARETH (in Hebrew, Nazerat; in Arabic, An-Nāsira), is roughly 45 minutes from Tiberias, not far from the Sea of Galilee. It is the largest Arab and Christian town in the country and, with dozens of New Testament related places, the most visited city by Christians. However, the town's history was far from romantic.

The town was first settled during the period 600-900 BC, but was too small to be included in the list of settlements of the tribe of Zebulon (Joshua 19:10-16), which mentions twelve towns and six villages. The name is also missing from the 63 towns in Galilee mentioned in the Talmud. Archeological excavations show that Nazareth was merely a small agricultural village settled by a few dozen families. Today, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims come each year to this town of only about 56,000 residents.

The Basilica of the Annunciation is one of the grandest and most popular sites in Nazareth. It contains the Grotto of the Virgin, believed by the Roman Catholics to mark the site of the Virgin Mary's maiden home and, possibly, where the angel announced to her that she was to be the mother of Jesus. Nearby is the Church of St. Joseph, which is believed to be the site of the Joseph's carpentry workshop and the home of the Holy Family. The Church of St. Gabriel is built above a spring that connects to St. Mary's Well, just across the street. In the Greek Orthodox tradition, this is the site of the annunciation. Mensa Christi (Jesus' Table) is believed to have been where Jesus' celebrated his last supper with his disciples. Also of note is the Synagogue Church, which is not actually a synagogue but is believed to be the site where Jesus preached as a young man.

Several Muslim sites are within the city as well. The El Abyad Mosque was the first to be built in the city (1812). The tomb of Abdullah et-Fahoum, the governor of Ottoman Nazareth and builder of the mosque, is located in the courtyard. The Maqam Shihab El-Din is a shrine to the nephew of Saladin. The Maqam Nabi Sa'in marks the highest point of Nazareth, where both Moslems and Christians used to come to make religious vows and oaths.

Walking tours, either guided or self-guided, offer a chance to enjoy some of the natural beauty of the city and its surrounding area as well as its historic sites.

The suburban Jewish municipality of Nazerat 'Illit (Upper Nazareth) was built in 1957 on hills overlooking Nazareth. It has a panoramic view of the city below and houses the Northern Region's administrative buildings. Residents are employed in auto assembly, food-processing, and textile plants. East of Nazareth on the Tiberias road is Cana, where Christians believe Jesus performed his first miracle. First-time visitors to the Nazareth area often leave dismayed by the crowds, noise, traffic, and commercialism.

NETANYA (also spelled Natanya), with a population of approximately 170,000, is a fast-growing resort and industrial center. Known as "the Pearl of the Sharon," it lies on the Mediterranean, 19 miles north of Tel Aviv. Netanya was founded in 1929 by citrus growers and named after Nathan Straus (1848-1931), the American philanthropist and one-time owner of Macy's department store. The city became urbanized in the 1930s, when European diamond-cutters fled persecution. Now this is the diamond-cutting capital of Israel, housing many workshops and showrooms. An industrial district here has textile mills and factories. Tourism also plays a large role in the local economy; the city's seven miles of bathing beaches, lined with a landscaped promenade, are a source of great civic pride. A "Meet the Israeli at His Home" program offers visitors a chance to get to know residents in their homes over a cup of coffee. Regular bus service and sheruts (taxi shuttle service) provide transportation to other parts of the country.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Israel is a narrow strip of land at the eastern end of the Mediterranean, wedged between the sea and the Jordan Valley. About the size of New Jersey, the country is 280 miles long and varies from 10 to 41 miles wide, with a total area of 8,000 square miles.

Since June 1967, Israel has administered the West Bank of the Jordan River, the Golan Heights, and Gaza. The highest point within the pre-1967 boundaries is Mt. Hermon, 3,963 feet; the lowest point is also the lowest point on earth—the Dead Sea, 1,300 feet below sea level.

The climate varies considerably. The coastal plain has wet, moderately cold winters with temperatures of 38°F to 55°F; a beautiful spring; a long, hot summer (80°F to 95°F); and a cool, rainless fall. Humidity in Tel Aviv is high, adding discomfort to the hot summers. Jerusalem, which is inland and approximately 2,500 feet above sea level, is drier. Thus, while Jerusalem is just as hot as Tel Aviv, it tends to be more comfortable. The inland hills are cooler than the plains and may have snow in winter. The southern section, the Negev, is a hot, barren desert. The only rain in Israel falls during winter and spring, usually in heavy downpours and thunderstorms. After the rainy season, drought becomes serious. As much winter rain as possible is held for irrigation; water from springs and rivers is also diverted for this purpose.

Sandstorms, the sharav, or ham'seen, are quite common during spring and summer. This hot, parching wind from the inland desert carries with it fine sand. The sun becomes brassy, and the temperature may climb as high as 100°F in Tel Aviv, and higher in the Negev. July and August are generally the most uncomfortable months. Pleasant, warm weather usually extends into early November. Insects are abundant; scorpions are found in the Tiberias area, and there are poisonous snakes in the Negev. None presents a major problem.

Population

Israel's population, excluding the West Bank, the Gaza Strip, and East Jerusalem, is about 2.1 million. 80.1 percent are Jews, 14.6 percent Muslim, and 2.1 percent Christian. Jews are 20.8 percent native born; 32.1 percent are from Europe, America, and Oceania; 14.6 percent from Africa; and 12.6 percent from Asia. The literacy rate is 95 percent.

Since 1989 there has been a huge influx of Jews from the former Soviet Union. Israel faces the problem of providing the newcomers with housing, jobs and education.

Most of the Arab population lives in the Galilee and in villages along the border between Israel and the occupied territories. Nazareth is the largest primarily Arab town within pre-1967 borders. An additional one million Arabs reside in the cities and villages of the territories. Bedouins still live in the Negev near Beersheba and in other southern areas.

In some Arab and Druze villages of the north and among the Bedouin in the south, many old, traditional Palestinian ways survive, little changed either by the British Mandate or by the State of Israel.

The people who live in Israel come from many parts of the world. Although the majority learn Hebrew and are quickly absorbed into the life of the country, their diverse origins are apparent. The most striking evidence is the variety of languages spoken: English, German, French, Yiddish, Rumanian, Bulgarian, Russian, Polish, Spanish, and Latino. Hebrew and Arabic are the official languages of the country, but many Israelis speak excellent English.

The government welcomes Jews from all over the world. Immigrants are taught Hebrew in ulpanim, intensive courses operated by the government. The ulpanim are only one arm of a phenomenally successful revival of the Hebrew language; it is also taught in schools and during compulsory military service. Virtually everyone speaks Hebrew but, for some 50 percent of the population, it is the second or third language.

Government

Israel is a parliamentary democracy with supreme authority vested in the Knesset, a unicameral legislature of 120 members. Knesset elections are held every four years, or more frequently in the event of a cabinet crisis, which leads to a Knesset vote for new elections. For electoral purposes, the country is treated as a single national constituency. Each party provides a slate of 120 candidates, and Knesset seats are apportioned according to each party's percentage of the total vote, starting at the top of the lists.

The president of Israel, currently Moshe Katzav, is chosen for a five-year term by the Knesset ; his duties are largely ceremonial and nonpartisan. The Prime Minister, Arial Sharon, is elected by the people.

The Cabinet is responsible to the Knesset. Ministers are usually members of the Knesset, although nonmembers may be appointed. As no political party has commanded a majority in the elections, all cabinets have been coalitions.

Civil and religious courts serve the three major Jewish, Muslim, and Christian communities. Religious courts have exclusive jurisdiction concerning marriage and divorce, which they decide according to their own religious laws.

Since the Israeli Government considers Jerusalem the country's capital, most Israeli Government ministries are located in that city. The Knesset (parliament) is also in Jerusalem, as are the official residences of the president and prime minister.

Jerusalem's Role

Before the June 1967 hostilities, the eastern sector of Jerusalem and all of the West Bank of the Jordan River were governed by the Kingdom of Jordan. When Israeli Defense Forces overran this territory in 1967, the West Bank was placed under military government and is still considered "occupied territory." The Arab sector of Jerusalem was, however, incorporated into the State of Israel and is now considered by Israel to be an integral part of the state. Arab Jerusalemites retain their Jordanian citizenship and passports, but are considered by Israel to be "residents" of Israel. The administration of the enlarged city is entrusted to the Jerusalem municipality.

While the U.S. has had consular representation in Jerusalem for over 100 years, the post's present status in the city is based on the 1947 U.N. "Partition of Palestine" resolution. This resolution divided Palestine into two states, one Jewish and one Arab. Jerusalem, because of its unique religious and historical significance, was not included in either state. The city was set aside as a corpus separatum, an international area under the aegis of the United Nations.

The "Partition of Palestine" resolution was never implemented. Immediately after the termination in 1948 of the British Mandate in Palestine, war broke out between Arabs and Israelis. At the conclusion of the hostilities, Jerusalem was divided, with Arab forces in control of The Walled City and the suburbs to the north and east, and Israeli forces in control of West Jerusalem.

This division of Jerusalem was recognized de facto, but never de jure by the U.S. Government and most of the international community, the rationale being that the resolution of the status of Jerusalem should be determined through peaceful negotiation between Israel and Jordan. Determined to avoid any step that might prejudice the outcome of such negotiations, the United States maintained its embassy in Tel Aviv (where Israel initially established its government), and left the consulate general in charge of representing American interests in the divided city of Jerusalem.

The de facto division of the city continued until the Six-Day War in June 1967, when the Israeli Defense Forces conquered the entire city of Jerusalem and the West Bank of the Jordan River. Shortly after the war, the Knesset passed legislation which, by administrative decree, enlarged the Jerusalem municipal boundaries to include what was formerly Arab Jerusalem, as well as areas of the West Bank.

Fourteen years later, in 1981, Israel formally annexed the expanded city. The U.S. recognizes neither the expansion nor the annexation as legitimate; it has made clear its belief that Jerusalem should be a united city within which would be available free access to the holy sites by people of all faiths and nationalities.

Israel's flag is white, with two horizontal stripes of blue. In its center is the Shield of David.

Arts, Science, Education

Israel's cultural, scientific, and educational institutions have played a significant role in blending a population of mixed geographic and cultural backgrounds into one nation.

Free, primary education is compulsory until age 15. Secondary education, which is not compulsory, is also free. Most schools are state-operated, but many primary and secondary schools are run by Jewish and Christian groups. The major universities are the Hebrew University in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv University, Weizmann Institute of Science in Rehovot, and the Israel Institute of Technology (Technion) in Haifa. Other important schools are Bar-Ilan University in Ramat Gan, the University of Haifa, Ben-Gurion University of the Negev in Beer-sheba, the Bezalel School of Arts and Crafts in Jerusalem, and the Rubin Academy of Music in Jerusalem.

Israel, enjoying a worldwide reputation in the sciences, can boast of one of the highest levels of scientific manpower and competence in the world. Israel's principal private research institutions are the Weiz-mann Institute, which offers graduate degrees in basic and applied sciences and in science education; Hebrew University; and the Technion.

Tel Aviv provides Israel's liveliest cultural life, with publicly supported theaters and many small off-Broadway type theaters. Most productions are in Hebrew.

The Israel Philharmonic, under the direction of Zubin Mehta, is one of the world's top orchestras. Its home is the Frederic R. Mann Auditorium in Tel Aviv, but regular concerts are also given in Haifa and Jerusalem. Season tickets usually are sold out each year, with some 24,000 subscribers in Tel Aviv alone. Occasionally tickets are available for individual concerts, as well as for special performances not covered by season tickets.

Other symphonic orchestras are the Jerusalem, Haifa, and Galilee Symphonies. Chamber ensembles include Tel Aviv's Israel Chamber Orchestra, the Beersheba Orchestra, and the Holon Chamber Orchestra. Tel Aviv has several internationally known chamber groups, including the Yuval Piano Trio, the Tel Aviv String Quartet, and the Israel String Quartet.

The Israel Museum in Jerusalem and the Tel Aviv Museum are the principal public art museums in the country. Also, innumerable works are found in other sites—from the Chagall stained-glass windows at Hadassah Hospital in Jerusalem to modernistic sculpture dotting the countryside. Private art galleries abound in main cities and smaller towns. Some excellent small art and archaeological museums can be found in about 10 kibbutzim. Safed, Ein Hod, and old Yafo (Jaffa) are considered special art colonies.

The Israel Museum also houses the outstanding collection of Dead Sea Scrolls, plus Jewish ceremonial objects, and archaeological finds.

Tel Aviv's Museum Haaretz includes glass, ceramics, numismatic, ethnological, science, and technology museums, as well as the Archaeology Pavilion, a prehistory museum, and a planetarium. The Archaeology Museum, in a former Turkish bath in old Yafo, contains many local unearthed findings.

Beth Hatefutsoth, the Diaspora Museum, on the campus of Tel Aviv University offers visitors a look at 2,500 years of Jewish history in excellently arranged contemporary exhibits.

Commerce and Industry

From the founding of the State of Israel in 1948 until the 1973 Israel-Arab war, the nation enjoyed one of the world's highest growth rates. The economy was characterized by rapid development, with Gross National Product (GNP) surging upward, sometimes at rates in excess of 10 percent a year in real terms. The pattern of rapid growth was necessary for the absorption of large numbers of immigrants and the building of a modern industrialized society. Large inflows of capital, mostly from the world Jewish community, permitted Israel to develop while consuming more than it produced. Israel has only limited natural resources and, until recently, no normal economic relations with its neighbors. Therefore, the nation wisely emphasized the development of a well-trained work force. The production base was built with emphasis on exports to Europe and the U.S. Substantial progress was made, and continues to be made, in developing these markets.

A major problem of successive Israeli administrations has been the government budget. It is divided roughly into three parts—defense, domestic and foreign debt repayment, and the remainder of government outlays (including welfare spending). Considering Israel's security situation, the government has found it difficult to cut defense spending over the years. Debt repayment must be made on time if Israel is to maintain its access to capital markets. In bargaining over the remaining one-third of the budget, the Israeli Government has run into the same domestic political roadblocks that have plagued most other Western democratic governments. It should be noted that U.S. assistance (in particular, massive military aid) is included in the government budget. Since the military aid is spent in the U.S. and the funds do not enter the domestic economy, the absolute size of the budget is not an accurate indication of the effect of central government spending on the economy.

Soaring inflation rates have characterized the Israeli economy in recent years; however, the degree of inflation has always been somewhat higher than that of other Western nations. Since 1977, the rapid rate of price increases has brought Israel to triple-digit inflation; but, by and large, Israelis have not suffered excessively from these high rates. Wages, welfare payments, pensions, and other incomes, as well as most financial assets and liabilities, and even the exchange rate of the shekel, are all adjusted periodically to take account of inflation. This "indexation" has allowed Israelis to cope with the situation but, at the same time, has made it difficult to lower the inflation rate. Even though Israelis individually are not impoverished by increasing prices, the economy suffers because of the distortions and uncertainties which inflation engenders. Analysts do not agree on the causes and ultimate solutions to the problem. It is clear, though, that large government budget deficits and resulting monetary expansion, imported food and fuel price rises, and expectations of further inflation all play major roles.

The U.S. is an important trading partner with Israel. Israel's other major trading relationship is with the European Community (EC). On July 1, 1977, Israel became an associate member of the EC, and all exports of manufactured goods now enter the EC duty free. Israel also benefits from the U.S. Generalized System of Preferences (GSP); over 2,700 of its products enter the U.S. duty free. Israel enjoys a free trade agreement with the U.S. as well as with the EC.

The U.S. has extended to Israel over $30 billion in economic and military assistance since 1949, and over $840 million in 2000 alone. Nearly half of this is in the form of grants. The United States also provided $3.2 billion in assistance over the 1979-1982 period to help finance the Israeli withdrawal from the Sinai. As part of that support, the U.S. built two new air bases in the Negev to replace those Israel left in the Sinai.

Israel maintains Chambers of Commerce in Jerusalem, at Hillel Street 10, P.O. Box 183; in Tel Aviv, at Hahashmonaim Street 84, P.O. Box 20027; and in Haifa, at Ha'astsmaout Road 53, P.O. Box 33176.

Transportation

Traveling to other countries from Israel is often inconvenient. Air links exist with many points in Europe, but fares may be considered high for the short distances involved. It is possible to arrange ground and air travel to Egypt, and to travel to other Arab countries via connecting flights from Cairo and Cyprus or by crossing the Allenby Bridge into Jordan.

Arkia (Israel's inland airlines) operates daily flights between Rosh Pina, near the Sea of Galilee, and Tel Aviv and Elat. Arkia also flies a Tel Aviv-Jerusalem route and conducts air/land tours for those with less time than money.

Steamship service is frequent, particularly in summer, between Haifa and Cyprus, Greece, Turkey, and western Mediterranean ports. During summer, weekly auto ferries run between Haifa and Piraeus, touching at Cyprus and Rhodes en route; frequent sailings are available to Corfu and Italy.

Trains run from Nahariya, near the Lebanese border, to Beersheba and Dimona in the Negev, and between Tel Aviv and Gaza. Frequent and inexpensive service operates among Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa.

Hitchhiking, or "tramping," is a way of life in Israel. Drivers are quite willing to stop for needy travelers. However, sudden pickups pose a traffic hazard.

City taxis are quick, easy to hail, and usually metered. Group taxis, or sherut (Hebrew for service) operate within and between cities along predetermined routes. These run frequently, but only from central sherut stands for interurban runs.

Tel Aviv has an extensive bus system which is uncomfortable and crowded in rush hours. Service on interurban buses is good, although time consuming. Reasonably priced tour buses are both comfortable and enjoyable.

Municipal buses, trains, and Israeli airlines do not operate between sundown on Friday and sundown on Saturday (Shabbat ). Taxis, sheruts, and a tour bus line are available for the determined tourist on this day.

A car is essential for most people who work in Tel Aviv—certainly for those who live outside the city proper. Almost any American car, even a compact, will be large by Israeli standards and may be difficult to maneuver through narrow, congested streets in some older parts of Tel Aviv (and other cities). Parking in town increases in difficulty proportionally. Apartment parking facilities in Tel Aviv are cramped, and much maneuvering is often required to get into and out of the space provided. Families who live in the suburbs, where parking is not a problem, often consider the safety aspects of a large, heavy car versus the convenience of smaller models. Road accidents, many of them serious, are frequent in Israel.

Compulsory third-party liability insurance rates are fixed by the Israeli Government. A vehicle may not be moved until this coverage has been paid for in advance. Many people also carry a U.S. comprehensive policy which includes collision and theft insurance; it should be noted, however, that a claim is likely to be more easily settled with a local insurer.

Although the annual inspection required for registration is gratis, several features are mandatory on all vehicles, and their installation can be costly. The most important of these features is asymmetric headlights; others are engraved engine numbers, side lights, and reflector strips. It is advisable to have asymmetric lights factory installed.

The damp, salty air and heavy dew at night make it difficult to start newer cars in the morning. Car covers will help protect against salt corrosion and rust. Air conditioning is useful during the hot summers.

Auto repair in general, and even the smallest replacement parts, can be quite expensive. One should be prepared with a supply of spare replacement parts. Windshield wipers, antennas, and side mirrors have disappeared from cars parked in Tel Aviv.

With few exceptions, the roads in Israel are good. Driving is on the right, and traffic signs follow international, rather than American, practice. Most street signs are printed in Hebrew, English, and Arabic.

Communications

Israel has a countrywide, government-owned dial telephone network. Although it is a modern and growing system, a shortage of long-distance lines, especially to Jerusalem, can make dialing outside Tel Aviv frustrating. International calls are easily made through an operator and are usually clearer than calls placed locally. Satellite-telephone relay equipment connects with most parts of the world, except the Arab countries.

Mail facilities are good. Reliable cable service exists to all but the Arab countries.

Israel Broadcasting Authority, the government radio network, broadcasts on several standard AM and FM frequencies. Newscasts in English and French can be heard in the early morning, early afternoon, and mid-evening, and in Spanish early morning and evening. In addition, Radio Cyprus, Voice of America (VOA), and British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) are received on AM. Shortwave reception is spotty. Local broadcasting includes American and European popular and classical music, as well as Hebrew and Arabic programs. Classical music is also aired on a special FM stereo station.

The national television network airs a number of English-language programs originating from the U.S., England, and Canada. At a moderate expense, an antenna can be rigged to receive TV broadcasts from the Amman (Jordan) station, which also has several English-language programs. In addition, a special antenna can be purchased which will receive broadcasts of Middle East Television (MET), which telecasts Monday Night Football and other U.S. sports programs one week late, and a number of American reruns. MET, transmitting from southern Lebanon, has an evening news program in English.

Reception of one Israeli and two Jordanian stations is good in Tel Aviv and its suburbs. American comedy shows are frequently shown, as are both old and fairly recent films in English. One of the Jordanian stations presents nightly news in English and French. Both Israeli and Jordanian TV operate on the European PAL system—625 lines, 50 cycles. Most programs are in color.

Receivers purchased in the U.S. work on the American system and, if color, on NTSC. They will not operate in Israel without adaptation. This can be done locally, but it is expensive and not always satisfactory.

The Jerusalem Post, a small independent daily newspaper, is an English-language paper in Israel. It covers most significant events concerning Israel, but is lacking in world news. Through an arrangement with the New York Times, the Post prints in its Monday edition the previous day's "News of the Week in Review" section of The Times. Local dailies are also available in Arabic, Yiddish, Hungarian, Polish, Bulgarian, Rumanian, German, and French. Several Hebrew-language papers (Ha'aretz is the leading daily) are sold, including two in easy Hebrew for new immigrants. No papers are published on Saturdays or Jewish holidays. The International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal, and USA Today arrive one day late. Major European newspapers are also available with short delays.

Many major American periodicals are available at local newsstands; prices are double those in the U.S. Subscriptions by surface mail arrive irregularly in four to eight weeks. International editions of Time and Newsweek reach Tel Aviv within a day or two of publication, but subscription-copy delivery of air editions is slower. Bookstores are surprisingly few and carry limited stocks of English-language books other than current best-sellers.

Health

Israel has one of the world's highest ratios of medical doctors per patient. Physicians are extremely competent and well trained. English-speaking medical specialists in every field, dentists, oculists, and opticians are available. Most hospitals have laboratories, diagnostic clinics, obstetrical services, and other modern facilities.

The majority of hospitals in Israel are good, but crowded, with a somewhat lower standard of housekeeping and auxiliary services than found in the U.S. Medical fees differ slightly from those in the U.S. American women who have given birth in Tel Aviv believe hospital maternity facilities rank favorably with American facilities.

The numerous reliable and well-stocked city pharmacies are usually closed between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., but a rotating duty pharmacy is open weekends and holidays.

Community health conditions in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are generally much better than in other Middle Eastern cities. Jerusalem, including the bazaar or suq area, is one of the cleanest cities in the Middle East.

Municipal health controls are satisfactory. The water is safe to drink; public cleanliness, sewage, and garbage disposal are good. As in most tropical climates, insects in homes are not uncommon, especially in kitchens and pantry areas. The problem is most acute during summer, but insect-repellent shelving paper and other defensive weapons are available. During the summer months, flour and cake mixes, etc., should be stored in a cool area or refrigerator to prevent weevil infestation.

Tel Aviv has the usual contagious and communicable diseases, but none present a major problem. Amoebic dysentery and infectious hepatitis exist, but to a lesser degree than in other countries in the area. Fungus infections are frequent. Those allergic to dust, molds, and pollens may have trouble at times, and some people find the long, humid summers debilitating.

Israel requires no immunization for entry into the country; however, typhoid, tetanus, and gamma globulin shots are recommended.

Clothing and Services

Clothing worn in the Middle Atlantic States of the U.S. during spring, summer, and fall is suitable for Israel. The climate is hot and humid six to eight months of the year, making a large wardrobe of washable summer clothes advisable. Sportswear, shorts, sleeveless shirts and blouses, beachwear, and sneakers are appropriate.

In winter, houses are chilly and tile floors are cold. A good raincoat, an ample supply of sweaters and shawls, an umbrella, and boots are important. Occasionally, woolen hats and gloves are needed in winter.

While most types of clothing are available, they are expensive; many visitors purchase clothes (especially for children) through catalogues. Israeli shoes, made with European lasts, will not fit narrow feet, but shoes imported from Europe, especially Italy, are easily purchased, although at high prices. Sandals are a local specialty.

American men find that life in Israel is quite informal, and the open-neck shirt is predominant among Israelis in daily business. Formal wear is occasionally needed, but a dark business suit can be readily substituted. Topcoats and medium-weight suits are sufficient for winter.

Israel is famous for its women's leather coats and jackets, and for colorful hand-embroidered dresses and blouses. Street-length dresses are the most popular for evening wear, but long dresses, skirts, and caftans are also useful. Gloves and hats are unnecessary. A medium-weight coat is needed for winter; a fur stole may be useful for special winter events, but a fur coat is not.

Clothing for children of all ages is costly. Children's shoes come in only two widths. Families assigned to Israel are advised to provide a sufficiently large wardrobe for each member initially, and to rely heavily on mail orders from the U.S. for future purchases. Tel Aviv's salt air and humidity are hard on clothes and shoes.

Most basic services are available in the cities. There are reasonably priced beauty salons, some of them excellent, in the neighborhoods, but salons in the larger hotels charge high rates. Dressmakers and tailors are fairly expensive; workmanship ranges from very good to only fair. Many good laundries and dry cleaners are available—again, with high prices.

Some American cosmetics are manufactured by Israeli subsidiaries of U.S. firms, but local pharmacies, although well-stocked, do not carry American brands.

In The Walled City of Jerusalem, many interesting items can be purchased. Among them are copper and brass pitchers, pots, and trays; olive-wood products; and various knickknacks.

Domestic Help

Experienced domestic help is available, especially in Tel Aviv, and wages compare to those in the U.S. Most foreign residents rely on part-time help, although a few families (those with official or business responsibilities) have one or two full-time domestics. Baby-sitting is done by teenagers, but it is possible to find au pair girls or mothers' helpers full time. Bartenders and waiters can be hired for evening functions.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Due to ongoing military activity in the west Bank and Gaza, the Department of State warns against travel to Israel. The situation in Jerusalem, the West Bank, and Gaza is very volatile, with potential for terrorist attacks, confrontations, and clashes. Travelers should exercise extreme caution and remain in close contact with the American Embassy in Tel Aviv.

The normal travel routes from the U.S. to Israel are by air, direct from New York to Tel Aviv, or via a stopover in Paris or Rome. Travelers arriving in Tel Aviv may proceed to Jerusalem by bus or sherut (group taxi).

No visas are required in tourist passports, but are issued at time of entry. Bearers of diplomatic and official passports must have Israeli visas before entering the country. No immunization is required, although typhoid, tetanus, and gamma globulin shots are recommended.

Cats and dogs must have certificates of rabies inoculation. Other animals are admitted at the discretion of the veterinary officer, usually after a two-week quarantine (no quarantine in Jerusalem).

Only the following nonautomatic firearms can be brought to Israel: . 22 rifles (1); and 12 or 20 gauge shotguns (1). One hundred rounds of ammunition (600 for shotguns) are allowed. Updated information is available from the Office of Export Control, U.S. Department of Commerce, Washington, DC.

The time in Israel is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus two.

The Israeli shekel (IS) is the unit of currency. The shekel continues to fluctuate against an international "basket" of currencies, making it inadvisable to maintain large shekel accounts. Certain shops accept foreign currency but, in general, business transactions are made in Israeli currency.

The metric system of weights and measures is normally used. An exception is the dunam (one-quarter acre or one-tenth hectare), a land measure which dates back to Ottoman times.

SPECIAL NOTE

Synagogues abound throughout Israel. Several churches are found in Yafo (Jaffa): St. Anthony's and St. Peter's (Roman Catholic); the Greek Orthodox; the Anglican (Episcopal); the Church of Scotland (Presbyterian); and Immanuel Church (Lutheran). Christian worship services in English (ecumenical, Anglican, Episcopal, and Roman Catholic) are conducted every Sunday in Herzlia Pituach in private homes; a Mormon congregation meets Saturdays in Herzlia Pituach. A Baptist mission near Petach Tikva is about a 20-minute drive from Tel Aviv. A Christian Science group meets Sundays in Tel Aviv's Hilton Hotel.

Jerusalem probably has the world's highest per capita number of churches, synagogues, and mosques. Many buildings have historical, religious, and architectural significance. The Old City has Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, and Coptic patriarchates, and an Anglican church presided over by an archbishop. There are also bishoprics of the Syrian Orthodox and various Uniate churches and a large Lutheran church. Other denominations represented include Scottish Presbyterian, Baptist, and smaller fundamentalist Christian groups. Jewish congregations cover the full range from Reform to ultra-Orthodox. Most of the city's Muslims are Sunni.

Opportunities to share in religious services of all faiths are frequent and include quiet, weekly observances as well as feast and holy days. Christian, Jewish, and Muslim observances attract wide participation by the faithful, and many services are open to the general public.