Jewelry

Jewelry was extremely popular during the Renaissance, reflecting the wealth of the times. Styles of jewelry evolved along with the clothing fashions of the period. Renaissance men wore gold chains and hat badges. These large badges—often two to four inches in diameter—stood out against the black velvet headgear of the time. Both men and women favored large rings, often engraved or set with stones. Wealthy Renaissance women also wore earrings and necklaces. As the necklines of dresses became lower, necklaces with dangling ornaments—such as pendants—grew more popular. Pendants might contain diamonds, emeralds, rubies, or pearls.

Wearing jewelry gave people a way to display their social and financial status. In 1362 English law forbade the lower classes to wear gold or silver, preserving these precious metals as a status symbol for the wealthy. In 1530, Francis I of France declared eight precious stones to be "jewels of the crown," making them symbols of the state and banning their distribution during times of financial crisis.

Jewelry could also serve to advertise a person's political or religious beliefs. For example, some hat badges displayed the images of kings or emperors, while others featured saints. Wealthy nobles often had special jewelry made to celebrate family events, such as births, baptisms, or marriages.

The making of jewelry was a job for skilled artisans*, most of whom belonged to the goldsmiths' guild*. Jewelers often took their designs from pattern books that circulated throughout Europe. Once a patron* accepted a design, the jeweler created a three-dimensional model out of plaster, wood, or lead. This model became the basis for a mold into which the jeweler poured liquid gold or silver. The resulting piece was then painted or decorated with precious stones. Renaissance artisans also revived the art of making cameos, gems or hard stones with a portrait or other picture carved in relief*.

As trade routes opened, many precious stones and metals from the New World arrived in Europe, providing a boost to the jewelry-making industry. Gold and emeralds came from South America, pearls from off the coast of Venezuela, diamonds from India, lapis lazuli—a deep blue stone—from Afghanistan, and turquoise from Persia (present-day Iran). New types of jewels quickly spread across Europe, along with different styles of jewelry.

(See alsoArtisans; Clothing; Guilds. )

see color plate 1, vol. 2

* artisan

skilled worker or craftsperson

* guild

association of craft and trade owners and workers that set standards for and represented the interests of its members

* patron

supporter or financial sponsor of an artist or writer

* relief

type of sculpture in which figures are raised slightly from a flat surface