Bulgaria

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BULGARIA

Republic of Bulgaria

Major Cities:
Sofia, Plovdiv, Varna

Other Cities:
Burgas, Pleven, Ruse, Shumen, Sliven, Stara Zagora, Tolbukhin

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Bulgaria. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

The Bulgarian lands are an historic crossroads that to this day preserve evidence of many ancient civilizations and peoples: bronze and iron spears and arrows, ruins of classical temples, palaces, and cities, wise words carved on rocks and stone columns or written on parchment and leather. In the mid-17th century, early Slavic tribes came from the north, crossing the Danube river and reaching as far as the Black Sea and the Adriatic. They were followed by the Bulgars of Khan Asparuh. The first Bulgar state was founded in 681 A.D. as an alliance between the Bulgars and the Slavs.

In 862 the Saints Cyril and Methodius created the first Slavic alphabet-the Glagolitsa. At the end of the 9th century another Bulgarian alphabet was created-the Cyrillic alphabet, which later was spread beyond the boundaries of Bulgaria. The Cyrillic script is still used in Bulgaria, Serbia, Ukraine, Russia, and other Slavic nations.

In 865, under the reign of Prince Boris I, the Bulgarians converted to Orthodox Christianity, which consolidated the country. The first Bulgarian kingdom reached its height during the reign of Tsar Simeon 1 (893-927). This era is known as the "Golden Age of Bulgaria" and is associated with the flourishing of literature, arts, and handicrafts. After a period of 167 years under Byzantine control (11th-12th centuries), Bulgaria reestablished itself as a state under the reign of Tsar Peter. During the 13th century, the Bulgarian state stabilized and its boundaries expanded to the Black, White, and Adriatic seas. In the middle of the 14th century, armies of the Ottoman Empire began raids into Bulgaria and finally conquered it in 1396. For the next five centuries Bulgaria remained under Ottoman rule. During this period over 400 uprisings broke out across the country, but all were suppressed.

The second half of the 18th century marked the beginning of a Bulgarian national renaissance, which extended through the next century. Numerous schools were opened, textbooks in Bulgarian were printed, and teachers were trained. The Bulgarian Church regained its independence from the Greek Orthodox Church, replaced the clergy, and established an independent exarchate. The revolutionary movement organized across Bulgaria culminated in an uprising in 1876. The subsequent Russo-Turkish war led to the liberation of Bulgaria and the signing of the San Stefano Peace Treaty on March 3, 1878. Bulgaria became a principality which was nominally under Ottoman control, but in fact acted as an independent state. The Berlin Congress of the Great Powers, held in June-July 1878, annulled the San Stefano Peace Treaty and split up Bulgaria. The northern region (Principality of Bulgaria) and southern region (East Rumalia) were unified in 1885 by Prince Alexander Batenberg.

In 1908 Bulgaria became a fully independent constitutional monarchy, which survived to the end of WW II. Bulgaria fell under the Soviet sphere of influence, became a People's Republic, and a loyal Soviet satellite beginning in 1946. Communist domination ended in 1989. In the early 1990s, Bulgaria began the contentious process of moving toward political democracy and a market economy.

MAJOR CITIES

Sofia

Sofia, the political, economic, cultural, and administrative center of the country, is a city where large parks and attractive older buildings blend with modern high-rises. Sofia is situated on a plain 1,830 feet high. Ten miles to the north lie the Balkan Mountains (Stara Planina), and just to the south is Mount Vitosha (7,000 feet), which is a national park and a popular hiking and skiing area. Behind Mt. Vitosha, near the resort town of Borovetz, lies Mt. Musala, the highest peak in Bulgaria (9,650 feet).

Utilities

Electricity is 220v, 50-cycle, single phase. The current is erratic, with frequent voltage fluctuations (as much as 10%) and occasional breaks in service. When repairs are taking place at the power station, regular power breaks occur, which are announced in advance. The city water supply, to which all apartments are connected, has frequent interruptions. Water pressure often fluctuates or is low on upper floors. Many buildings have an insufficient or inconsistent hot water supply that is centrally controlled. Each summer for about 3 weeks, sometimes less in the diplomatic apartments, the hot water is turned off to clean the water pipes. This is announced in advance. Heating is supplied through a centralized citywide system, which means that one cannot regulate one's own apartment temperatures.

Food

There has been a great improvement in food availability in Bulgaria following economic liberalization. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are always offered at the markets, as well as some hardy, less seasonal imports. Meat and poultry are always available but are not cut and prepackaged American-style. Frozen vegetables on the local market do not look particularly appetizing, but American and Turkish brands are available at the commissary. Finding good fresh or frozen fish is still a problem, but some people report that they have found sources.

The present exchange rate makes local produce reasonable for foreigners, and the sources of supply have increased. Many private shops and small supermarkets have opened recently, stocking a good variety of imported items as well as local products. There are now two "Metro" stores in Sofia that are of the size and variety of a Price Club-type store. These stores are more like warehouses and sell everything from wine to lawn furniture. This is pretty close to a one-stop-shop, since you can buy food, household appliances and furnishing, clothing, diapers, products for your office, and even automotive supplies.

Open or covered farmers' markets offer a rich assortment of local and imported produce all year around, although you may not be able to find your favorite fruits or vegetables. The larger vegetable markets are open every day of the week. Local dairy products, meats, and dry goods are found in corner groceries.

Clothing

You will need approximately the same kinds of clothing here as for the U.S. Winters are generally long and cold while summers are shorter, cooler, and dry. You should bring warm winter clothing, especially if you intend to take advantage of the winter sports opportunities available here.

The cobblestone streets can be hard on shoes. For women, closed-toe shoes with low or moderate heels are better than sandals or high-heeled shoes for most of the year, although many young Bulgarian women wear the latest platform high heels even on the cobblestones. Bulgarians are quite proud of their locally made shoes and boots, which are available all over town, and imported shoes and boots are also easy to find for adults. For children's shoes and boots most people still either shop in Greece or Turkey or buy from American catalogs.

Office clothing is similar to that of the U.S., though those who regularly use public transportation may dress slightly less formally. More and more upscale sports and fashion shops are opening, and the Bulgarian clothing industry produces many attractive items. But in general it is still difficult to find what you want with regards to style and fabric in the size you want, so most people buy clothing at home or from catalogs.

In the last few years it has become much easier to find baby clothing, but parents with 10-12-year-olds report that

Domestic Help

Both full-time and part-time Bulgarian servants are available. All live out, and few speak English well. Normal work hours are Monday through Friday, with special arrangements made for weekends and holidays. Rates vary widely depending on the contract, 36.7% of that amount is given in addition for social security, unemployment and health insurance. It is also customary to give servants a gift at the end of the year; an extra month's wages is expected. For extra help at cocktails, lunches, and dinner parties, you can hire cooks, bartenders, and waiters. Evening babysitters cost about $2 an hour, plus taxi fare.

Religious Activities

Most churches in Bulgaria are Bulgarian Orthodox. Anyone may attend services at these churches, including the

Alexander Nevski Cathedral, to hear the famous unaccompanied choir. This is especially interesting at Christmas and Easter. The former regime encouraged atheism; this is no longer the case, and now many foreign missionary groups are active.

There is a resident chaplain at the British Embassy in Bucharest who holds Episcopal services periodically in the Fox Club, in the British Embassy residence building. The papal nunciature holds Roman Catholic services in English Sundays at 11:00 am, and St. Joseph's Catholic Church holds services in Polish, Bulgarian, and Latin at different times on Sundays. The International Baptist Church holds English services Sunday at 11:00 am in the basement of the World Trade Center; Sunday School at 10:00 am; and Bible study and prayer group meetings, as well as nursery service, during the 11:00 am service. Branches of the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints and a Sephardic Jewish Synagogue with worship are also present in Sofia.

Education

The Anglo-American School in Sofia (AAS), a PK-8 school established by the American and British to the south of Sofia. Embassies in 1967, takes children primarily of the two embassies; other international children and a limited number of Bulgarians are given places as space permits. The school is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools. The school has a specific commitment to focus on curricula, resources, and methodologies that relate to the mainstreams of education in the U.S. and the United Kingdom. The director is British, and the teachers are mostly American or British.

The AAS of Sofia is governed by a Board of Directors, consisting of nine members; four members are appointed by the British Ambassador, and four by the American Ambassador, with the PTO president serving as a full board member. The AAS is located on the campus of the American College of Sofia in Mladost. At present, about 140 children from 30 different countries are enrolled.

The school operates a preschool for children who are already 4 years old; it also offers an intensive ESL program, remedial reading and writing, a study skills program, a standardized testing program, French, music, art, after-school activities, field trips inside and outside Bulgaria, and an annual ski week on Mount Vitosha. There are classroom computers and an extensive library. The school does not have any special separate provision for children designated as gifted and talented or as learning-disabled beyond what is listed above. Provision is made for individual differences by the teachers within the normal favorable classroom situation. Classes on average have 20 or fewer pupils. The annual educational allowance covers tuition and bus service. Classes begin in late August and end in mid-June.

Places are limited, so if you wish to enter a child, write as early as possible. The school will hold seats open. The address is: The Director, The Anglo-American School of Sofia American Embassy Sofia Department of State, 5740 Sofia Place Washington, DC 20521-5740.

The American College of Sofia, a private high school blending aspects of the Bulgarian and American educational systems, graduated its first class in 1997 after being shut down for 50 years under the Communist government. Most students are Bulgarian, with a minority of Americans and other internationals. A preparatory year, equivalent to the 8th grade, is used almost entirely to teach the entering Bulgarians English. In subsequent years students are taught math, philosophy, four sciences, including computer science, and languages and arts.

American teens have attended ACS and have received an excellent education there. Also, in the past, a few American teenagers have studied in the Bulgarian special-language high schools, where the language of instruction is either English, French, Russian, or German. Not all classes are held in the designated language and, of those classes given in English, the level is naturally most suitable for ESL students. Students beyond the 8th grade also have taken the University of Nebraska home study program. This requires active parent participation.

Special Educational Opportunities

Besides the Anglo-American School of Sofia, there are other opportunities for young children. The International Children's Creativity Centre (ICCC) is open to children aged 2 to 4, who attend the Centre two, three, or five mornings a week to play and learn using the English language. The ICCC Board is made up of five members, some of whom are parents of children registered at the Centre. The Centre has enjoyed a good reputation since its inception.

The American English Academy offers courses in English for prekindergarten through 12th grade. The academy is accredited by ACSI in Colorado Springs, and the parents of children attending the academy are very pleased with the education their children are receiving. There is a religious affiliation, but no religion is taught. The textbooks and curriculum are American, and the president and at least half the teachers are American.

The American University of Bulgari is located just 100 kilometers south of the capital city of Sofia. All instruction is in English, and the faculty is over 60% American. The University of Maine, the U.S. partner, provides accreditation and assists with curriculum development.

There is a French Government Lycee which welcomes children of all nationalities. Its students are eligible to specialize in baccalaureates in the sciences, literature, or social sciences. The program is rigorous and highly valued at American Universities, which often offer 1 year or more of advanced credit to holders of the Baccalaureate.

Sports

Skiing is a very popular winter sport, and prices for rental equipment and lift tickets are well below those in Western Europe. Sledding and winter hiking are also popular, with Vitosha Mountain right at the doorstep. There is a Hash House Harrier group, which organizes regular weekend runs and walks. Hiking on the Vitosha Mountain is popular. For the more adventurous sports enthusiasts, Bulgaria has a selection of mountain ranges from which to choose. Hiking, spelunking, hang gliding, kayaking and rock climbing opportunities exist.

Fitness centers are becoming more popular and there are several indoor and outdoor swimming pools in the city. There are several reputable good stables on the outskirts of Sofia.

Good locally produced and imported sports equipment and clothing is becoming more available in shops all over Sofia, although for the newest styles and equipment you may still have to shop elsewhere.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Within the city there are many fascinating museums to visit as well as several buildings of historical and cultural significance. Organized tours are available from Sofia to visit the many delightful points of interest in the country, including the nearby Rila Monastery and the town of Koprivshitsa, one of 14 designated museum towns. The Boyana Church, one site not to be missed, is located just outside of Sofia. This church contains frescoes that date from the 12th and 13th centuries and are of unusual interest to art in-and out-of-country travel opportunities. Many families drive fairly regularly to the Greek and Turkish coastal resorts and/or to Thessaloniki and Istanbul for shopping and pleasure. Bucharest is an eight-hour drive from Sofia via the Bulgarian city of Ruse on the Danube.

Entertainment

Several movie theaters in Sofia show American and European films. American films are usually shown in English with Bulgarian subtitles. The English titles are published weekly in the private newspaper, The Sophia Echo.

There are many theaters in Sofia offering a rich variety of performances from the classical to avant garde, with performances in Bulgarian. In the last couple of years there has been an English play performed by volunteers from the English-speaking community. Children's puppet theaters occasionally have pantomime shows, and there is a musical theater, which frequently performs musicals such as "Hello, Dolly."

The Sofia Philharmonic runs several cycles of performances at reasonable prices.

Sofia also boasts a young private orchestra, the New Symphony Orchestra, whose director is Rossen Milanov, also the director of the Chicago Youth Orchestra.

Numerous other musical events take place in the National Palace of Culture, a monstrosity of a building left from the days of communism. Pop, rock, jazz, and classical groups perform there.

The many and ever-changing assortment of restaurants, cafes, and pubs offer varied opportunities for exploration. Most restaurants are fairly inexpensive by American standards but have improved considerably in the last few years. Food and service are greatly improved, and excellent Bulgarian wines with dinner are well within an FS officer's budget. Besides a variety of international restaurants-Korean, Chinese, Indonesian, French, Spanish, Indian, and Italian-there are folkloric restaurants with floor-shows, a restaurant that sells the antiques surrounding your table, restaurants with a view, and the usual assortment of American fast food restaurants.

Plovdiv

Plovdiv, rich in both ancient and modern history, is Bulgaria's second largest city, with a population of about 375,000. Situated on the cliffs overlooking the Maritsa River, it is about 100 miles east of Sofia, on the international highway to Istanbul. For more than 2,000 years, it has been a crossroads for east-west trade, and today is the site of the Plovdiv International Sample Fair, where tradespeople from both capitalist and communist countries gather each September to show their wares.

The ancient city was known as Philippolis, for Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great, who made it a military post in 341 B.C. Under the Romans, who took the city in 46 B.C., it was the capital of Thrace (or Thracia), and known as Trimontium. It was razed by the Goths, but recovered after Constantine V of Byzantine settled the Armenian Paulicians here. Again destroyed in the 13th century by Bulgarian raids, it revived as a center of the Bogomils, who were part of a religious movement of the Middle Ages. The Greeks retook the city in 1262, then lost it to the Turks in 1364. It became the capital of Eastern Rumelia when it passed to Russia in 1877. It was not until 1885 that it became part of Bulgaria.

The Plovdiv of today retains the color of its history in the town walls and gate, the old quarter, the Eastern Orthodox churches, and the Roman architecture. Many places of historical interest are a short drive from Plovdiv, most notably the Bachkovo monastery, second only to Rila in interest and beauty. Plovdiv has a 4,000-student university and several other institutions of higher learning, as well as a number of notable museums.

Varna

Varna is Bulgaria's principal seaport, and is also a beautiful resort with fine beaches on the western shores of the Black Sea. It has a thriving tourist industry, and its museums, galleries, and good theaters contribute to the economic health of the city. Varna supports its own symphony orchestra and also an opera house. During the resort season, its hotels are both busy and expensive. One of the major attractions of this city of more than 311,000 residents is its international music festival. Every three years, a ballet competition is also held here. From Varna, throngs of visitors take excursion boats up and down the coast.

Varna was founded in 580 B.C. as Odessus, a Greek colony. It passed to the Roman Empire in the first century A.D., and remained part of the Byzantine Empire until the Bulgarians defeated Constantine IV here in the year 679. Captured by the Turks in 1391, it became an important seaport and, in the 19th century, a crucial railroad terminus. The Turks used Varna for almost five centuries as an outpost against the Christian Crusaders. In a turn-about, the British and the French made it their naval base in the Crimean War. The city was ceded to Bulgaria in 1878 by the Treaty of Berlin.

For eight years after World War II (1949-1957), Varna was known as Stalin.

OTHER CITIES

BURGAS , situated on the Gulf of Burgas, an inlet of the Black Sea, is one of the country's major ports. A city of about 200,000 people, it has several industries, including fish canneries, an oil refinery, and engineering plants. It also is the site of an institute of chemical technology. Burgas (also spelled Bourgas) was founded in the 18th century on the site of a fortified town which had existed four centuries earlier.

PLEVEN , with a population of about 140,400, is located 80 miles northeast of Sofia in north-central Bulgaria. The city lies near the Vit River in a small agricultural region surrounded by limestone hills. Pleven is a trading hub for the nearby farm districts and vineyards. Industries include those producing rubber goods, ceramic articles, tobacco, and cloth. A historical city since pre-Roman times, there are a number of museums and a school of viticulture here. A major battle of the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-78 was fought in Pleven, and a mausoleum commemorating the Turkish surrender in December 1877 is in the center of the city.

RUSE (sometimes spelled Roussé), a city of close to 185,500, lies in northeast Bulgaria on the Danube, across from the Romanian city of Giurgiu (Giurgevo). It is Bulgaria's chief river port and an industrial and communications center which developed after 1878. Founded in the second century B.C. as Prista, it later became a Roman naval base. The Turks ruled the city from the 15th to the 19th centuries, called it Ruschuk, and made it a military base. Ruse, noted for its old churches and mosques, houses a large technical university, Angel Kancev.

Founded in 927, SHUMEN is located in northeastern Bulgaria, about 500 miles west of Varna. Under Turkish rule during the 15th through 19th centuries, the city was strategically an important stronghold during the Turkish wars in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, Shumen is a manufacturing city whose chief industries include flour milling, brewing, canning, and motor vehicle assembling. It is also a railway junction and a market for grains and other agricultural products. The city was originally called Shumen or Shumla, but was renamed Kolarovgrad in 1950 in honor of the communist leader Kolarov, who was born here. It reverted to Shumen in 1965. The current population is about 104,000.

SLIVEN (also called Slivno) is situated 155 miles east of Sofia at the foot of the Balkan Mountains in east-central Bulgaria. The city has long been considered strategically important due to its location at the entrance to the Balkan passes and has, consequently, been the center of conflict—in medieval times between Bulgaria and the Byzantine Empire, and between the Russians and the Turks in the 19th century. Today, Sliven is a textile center that also produces foodstuffs, wine, machinery, glass, and electrical goods. Coal is mined in the nearby region. Several churches and mosques, and the ruins of a medieval fortress may be found in Sliven. The capital of Sliven Province, the city has a population of 102,000.

STARA ZAGORA is the capital of the district with the same name; it is approximately 110 miles southeast of Sofia and 50 miles northeast of Plovdiv. The city, with a population of about 145,000, is near the famous Shipka Pass in the Balkan Mountains. Stara Zagora produces furniture, chemicals, textiles, and tobacco, and is known particularly for its vast fields of roses which provide oils for the perfume industry. It had to be rebuilt after the Russo-Turkish War and, as a result, several Roman and Turkish antiquities were found. A spa called Stara Zagora is located near the city.

TOLBUKHIN is a cultural and commercial center located 25 miles north of Varna in northeastern Bulgaria. The capital of the province of the same name, Tolbukhin produces cotton textiles, farm machinery, metal goods, and foodstuffs. Tolbukhin was formally called Dobrich; when it was occupied by Romania, from 1913-40, it was called Bazargic. It was officially renamed Tolbukhin in 1949 to honor the Soviet marshal who had liberated the city in 1944. Tolbhukin's population is about 102,300.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Bulgaria is a country of mountains, plains, and seacoast, occupying 110,000 square kilometers (43,000 square miles) of the Balkan Peninsula. It measures roughly 260 miles from east to west and about 150 miles from north to south. Much of the country is rugged and mountainous, and only about 40 percent is cultivated. The Danube River, Black Sea, and Pirin-Rhodope Mountains provide natural borders on the north, east, and south. Flowing south into Greece are the non-navigable Struma, Maritsa, Mesta, and Arda Rivers, important sources of water for irrigation. The Balkan range extends across the north-central part of the country, separating the wheat-growing Dobrudzha region from the Thracian plain, where vegetables, fruits, grapes, and tobacco are cultivated.

The climate is usually designated as "continental, with many microclimates." From May to November, the climate is pleasantly warm and sunny. Sofia, though approximately on the same latitude as Rome, is about 1,500 feet up; it therefore, has a climate similar to, for example, Frankfurt. All plants, flowers, and fruits common in Britain and France grow well here, and the climate is too cold for citruses. November through April are cold, with snow and temperatures hovering near 32°F (0°C) but often falling lower, sometimes to 5°F (-15°C) in Sofia. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 90°F, and humidity is moderate. During July, the mean temperature is 68.7°F (20.4°C); during January, 30.6°F (-8°C). Mildew and insects are not significant factors.

Sofia's main climatic problem is winter smog, which is caused by industrial air pollution, soft-coal smoke, vehicle exhaust emissions, fog, and surrounding mountains that keep winds from blowing the smog away. Gray-brown dirt or coal-dust, as well as sand, is scattered on Sofia's snow-covered streets in winter. In Sofia, winters may often be gray, but they are quite beautiful in the nearby mountains. Mount Vitosha (altitude 2,290 m.), with its ski resorts and runs and walking paths, overlooks the city. Abundant trees and flowers make Sofia a more colorful city the rest of the year. Rainfall is moderate, averaging 25 inches a year.

Population

Bulgaria's National Statistics Institute reported the 1996 population at just over 8 million. Roughly 1.2 million, or 13%, live in and around Sofia, the nation's capital. Plovdiv, the second largest city and cultural center, has a population of about 350,000, while the Black Sea coast town of Varna, the third largest, has just over 300,000. Few of the other cities have populations greater than 100,000.

Recent years have seen a negative growth in the population, a condition also present in the early 1980s. The number of abortions exceeds live births, and in 1996 the country had an infant mortality rate of 15.6 deaths per 1,000 live births. Death and illness rates have increased since the early 1980s. The "squared" population profile is projected to lead to a population of 6 million by the year 2030. The population is aging, with nearly 30% of the people over the retirement age of 55; 48% representing those of working age (20-54 years); and a relative few remaining to address the needs of a hoped for economic expansion. A doubling of the percentage of severely handicapped further complicates this condition.

About 85% of the population is Bulgarian-a designation that includes people with numerous regional folklore traditions-and 9% is of ethnic Turkish origin. About 6% of the population is Roma, some of whom claim to be of Turkish descent. The country also has small numbers of Armenian, Jewish, Greek, and other minorities. The Bulgarian Orthodox Church, which belongs to the family of Eastern Churches that also includes Greek, Serbian, Romanian, and Russian Orthodoxy, is the principal religious denomination. Today, Bulgaria has one of the highest levels of true literacy in the world.

The Bulgarian language, like Russian and Serbian, is based on the Cyrillic alphabet, the founders of which were two Greek brothers, Cyril and Methodius, who worked among the Slavs, and is a source of great pride for Bulgarians. The Cyrillic alphabet spread from Bulgaria to Russia. Knowledge of other Slavic languages (particularly Russian) is helpful in learning Bulgarian, in spite of significant differences in vocabulary, grammar, and pronunciation. Learning foreign languages has always been stressed in Bulgaria, and the systems developed for learning language are quite effective. The levels of fluency in languages such as English, French, and German, often without the benefit of travel, is noteworthy.

Public Institutions

The 1991 constitution includes the following provisions: that there be separation of powers, political pluralism, free economic enterprise, inviolability of private property, and protection of the investments and businesses of Bulgarians and of foreigners. Human rights are generally well protected, and Bulgarian domestic laws are being brought into conformity with international agreements.

The President is commander-in-chief of the army and appoints and dismisses ambassadors. He has a staff of advisers. When in office, he officially relinquishes partisan allegiances and is the leader of all the Bulgarian people. He cannot initiate legislation, but has a qualified veto. Elected by direct popular election for five-year term, he can be reelected once.

The Narodno Sobranie, or National Assembly, consists of 240 members, each elected for a 4-year term with no term limit. They have public sittings that are extensively broadcast and televised. Both the Assembly and the Council of Ministers initiate legislation. The executive function rests with the Prime Minister and the Council of Ministers, including chairmen of functional committees. They are responsible for internal and foreign affairs. The judiciary does not check the actions of the executive or legislative sections; however, the new constitution provides for an independent judiciary.

A two-tier local government system is specified: regions and municipalities. Regional governors are appointed by the council of ministers, and the municipalities elect councils and mayors. Bulgaria became a member of the UN in 1955 and belongs to most UN-related agencies. It is a member of the World Bank, the IMF, and is a candidate for membership of the European Community and NATO.

Arts, Science, and Education

Full state support for the arts ended with the fall of the communist regime; however, the art scene remains vibrant, and one can pick from a rich variety of offerings: art and craft galleries; museums; theater (for those whose Bulgarian is good enough); opera; and classical, jazz, rock, and folk concerts.

Sofia has six full-time theaters whose offerings range from Bulgarian and European classics to modern works of world drama. The Sofia Opera features standards of classic grand opera as well as ballet, while operettas and musicals can be seen at the Musical Theater. There are three full symphonic orchestras, the Sofia Philharmonic, the National Radio Orchestra, and the New Symphony Orchestra, which exists and performs completely without subsidy from the state. Fans of popular music can enjoy live bands at many of the clubs around town and at the several commercial concerts throughout the year. Bulgaria also has international festivals of dance, classical music, folk, jazz, and rock during the spring, summer, and fall. By U.S. standards, tickets to all cultural events are inexpensive and are readily available.

There are excellent state museums of Bulgarian and foreign art, an historical museum, an ethnographic museum, and a natural history museum, all with interesting exhibits. In addition, private art galleries have proliferated in recent years, and one can see (and purchase) works ranging from icons through modern abstract work.

For those interested in folk culture, Bulgaria offers a wealth of possibilities. Throughout the year one can see festivals of dance and folk music, and there are opportunities to attend traditional events such as the parades of mummers (kukeri). Several world-renowned troupes perform on occasion (when not traveling abroad), and the chance to hear troupes such as the Pirin Ensemble, the Filip Koutev Ensemble, and the famous part-singing women's choir, "Les Mysteres des Voix Bulgares," should not be passed up.

Bulgaria has had an excellent reputation in the world of science and education for years, and the recent economic troubles notwithstanding, it continues to educate students, particularly in math and science, whose test scores rank among the best in the world. Compulsory schooling ends at age 15, but more than 80% of students go farther. Bulgaria's literacy rate is greater than 98%, considerably higher than that in the U.S. With the political reforms of the last several years has come educational reform as well, and the entire educational system from primary school through graduate school is being reconstituted along Western lines.

The Ministry of Education has overall responsibility for maintaining standards and prescribing curricula for all public schools and any private educational institutions qualified to offer recognized diplomas. Secondary education in Bulgaria, despite serious economic problems, continues to offer a large variety of educational choices ranging from vocational programs (often closely associated with factories) to special science and math high schools. Very popular also are the foreign-language high schools, which like the math and science schools, are "entrance by examination" institutions.

Bulgaria has 43 universities and other institutes of higher education and 45 colleges and technical schools. ("College" refers to semi-higher learning institutions for nursing, paramedical training, teaching, and technical education.) A new feature on the Bulgarian educational scene are the recently (re)established private schools. While these are governed by the various laws on education and are subject to a greater or lesser amount of oversight by the Ministry of Education, they receive no financial support from the state budget. Most notable among these private institutions are the American University of Bulgaria in Blagoevgrad, an American liberal arts college with a strong business school; the New Bulgarian University in Sofia; and the American College of Sofia, an English-language high school that was founded in the middle of the last century and reopened in 1992 after being closed for nearly 50 years. There is also a private English-language primary through middle school with American accreditation, the Anglo-American School of Sofia.

Unlike the situation in America, most basic research is not carried out in universities but rather in one of the more than 160 institutes and laboratories of the Bulgarian Academies of Science, Medicine and Agriculture. The Academies, which are not teaching institutions, have suffered even more than the school system from the economic hardships of the last years, and this has inhibited the exploitation of Bulgaria's scientific talent.

All educational and scientific institutions are eagerly seeking partnerships with Western institutions, and American programs sponsored by the Fulbright Commission and IREX have contributed significantly to linking Bulgarian scholars and scientists with their counterparts in the U.S.

Commerce and Industry

Following a severe economic crisis, the newly elected Union of Democratic Forces (UDF) Government adopted a currency board arrangement (CBA) in 1997. The CBA and its associated IMF program have provided the framework for cutting inflation from nearly 600% in 1997 to 6.2% in 1999. Fiscal discipline has kept budget deficits small and led to successive increases in Bulgaria's credit ratings. Despite the conflict in Kosovo, GDP grew by 2.4% in 1999 and is projected to grow by 4% in 2000. However, in the wake of large-scale restructuring of state-owned enterprises (SOEs), unemployment increased to 19% of the labor force in April 2000.

The UDF Government made considerable progress in privatizing SOEs last year. As of the end of 1999, about 71% of state-owned assets destined for privatization had actually been sold. The privatization process was to have been substantially completed in 2000, but difficulties in some sales make it increasingly likely that several large state-owned companies will not be sold until 2001.

Bulgaria joined the World Trade Organization (WTO) in December 1996 and became a full member of the Central European Free Trade Agreement (CEFTA) in July 1998. Bulgaria trades with European countries under preferential terms according to the European Union Association Agreement, effective February 1, 1995, and an agreement with the European Free Trade Association (EFTA), effective 1993. Bulgaria signed free-trade agreements with Turkey (effective January 1, 1999) and Macedonia (effective January 1, 2000).

In 1999, according to preliminary estimates, Bulgaria attracted $755.3 million in foreign direct investment; during the period 1992-1999; foreign direct investment totaled $2.8 billion. The U.S. is the fourth largest source of foreign direct investment ($198.4 million, or 7% of the total). Among the largest foreign investors are the following U.S. companies: American Standard, AIG/ALICO,

McDonald's, Entergy Power Group, Hilton International, Seaboard Overseas, World Trade Company, Kraft Foods International, Bulgarian-American Enterprise Fund (BASF), Caresbac, DTS, Investments Corporation, Eurotech, Kontrako, and Eagle.

Germany is the top foreign investor, with $425.9 million, or 15% of total foreign investment, followed by Belgium, with $373 million, or 13% of total foreign investment, and Cyprus, with $249 million, or 9% of total foreign investment.

The government seeks to improve the country's infrastructure. Many roads and railways have been reconstructed by the Phare Cross Border Program, but much remains to be done. Despite the ongoing modernization of the telephone system, the quality is below international standards. There are two cellular radiotelephone networks-one analogue and one digital. A second GSM (the Global System for Mobile communications) license will be issued later this year; the Bulgarian Telecommunication Company (BTC) is also to be privatized in the near future.

Transportation

Automobiles

Road conditions in Bulgaria can be poor, especially in winter, as only the major roads are cleared of ice and snow. Four-wheel or all-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended. Shell gas stations can be found in larger cities and along most major highways.

In Sofia and along the main highways, super (96 octane), and regular (91 octane) and unleaded (95H) gasoline is available. Diesel fuel is available at major gas stations only.

An International Driver's License is recommended, but not required, and can be obtained through AAA or an equivalent organization.

Traffic moves on the right as in the U.S. The following rules may be unfamiliar to people new to Europe: You must stop 3 meters behind and to the right of a tramway car stopping to discharge or pick up passengers. Speed limits are 120 kph on divided highways; 90 kph on regular main roads; and 50 kph in populated areas, unless there are signs to the contrary. Priority is given to the driver entering from the right on any equal junction.

You should strictly observe the priority of a pedestrian who has stepped onto a painted pedestrian crossing. It is illegal to drive with more than 0.05 parts per thousand of alcohol in the blood or when alcohol in any quantity has been consumed immediately before taking the wheel. If you have an accident, you must call the police, and both drivers should wait at the scene, even if there has been no personal injury. The police will issue a protokol za proizshestivie (police protocol). Without this piece of paper, you cannot make a claim on your insurance.

"Green Card" short-term, the overseas third-party liability, is mandatory for auto travel in Europe. When you arrive in Bulgaria, take out this policy for Bulgaria and for all of Europe through the local Insurance Corporation. It has also recently become possible to obtain this policy from Clements & Co. and other American firms.

Local

Sofia is served by a network of tram, trolley bus, and auto lines. A one-month pass cost $14 (August 2000). Vehicles are often crowded but are handy, frequent, and very cheap-an important point now that parking is very tight around the center of town. Taxis are legion. There are many taxi stands; taxis cruise, and you can also get taxi service by telephone.

Frequent air and railway service link Sofia with the Black Sea resorts of Varna and Burgas, as well as with other major Bulgarian cities.

Regional

No American air carrier serves Sofia. The Western European cities with frequent service by American carriers are Frankfurt, Paris, London, Zurich, Munich, and Vienna, but connections to and from Sofia vary in convenience according to the day of the week. The Bulgarian airline, Balkan, and other foreign carriers provide regular service between Sofia and Western European cities. In late fall and winter, fog or heavy snow may occasionally close Sofia Airport for several days at a time.

There are many rail and bus lines to/from major European cities, and to resort areas in Greece and Turkey. Travelers should be cautious about theft, especially when crossing borders on land transportation. The preferred route for coming to Sofia from Europe by car is via Vidin/Kalafat.

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

Direct dialing is available from the U.S. to Bulgaria. International connections with the U.S. vary from quick and clear to slow and unsatisfactory. The cost of calling the U.S. in early 1999 was about $1.50 per minute when using the Bulgarian Telecommunications Company and dialing direct. Telephone charges begin when the connection is made with the U.S. operator, not with your party. From your home, you may dial direct to most Eastern and Western countries. Some people have had success with Internet telephony.

Several service providers offer connection to the Internet and also permit the use of American-based services. Prices are relatively reasonable in comparison to telephone costs and assist in maintaining contact with other Internet users on a considerably faster basis than "snail mail."

Radio and TV

Bulgarian TV broadcasts nationwide on two channels, Channel 1, which is broadcast in SECAM, and Channel 2, which broadcasts in PAL. Local broadcast stations exist in many cities. In Sofia the two local (and private) stations are New TV (PAL) and Seven Days TV (SECAM). Currently, there are two stations that have broadcast capability nationwide, one public-Channel 1, and the other private-BTV (Bulgarian TV).

In addition to broadcast TV, satellite reception is possible for those having a dish, and there are a number of cable operations as well. Satellite and cable offerings make available CNN, CNBC, BBC, SKY NEWS, MTV, and SKY SPORTS, and a large variety of other European channels. European-system and Mufti-system television receivers are widely available for sale. Programming runs the gamut of news, entertainment, business news, film, and the like. Broadcast TV is almost exclusively in Bulgarian, while cable and satellite offerings feature programming in English, Spanish, French, German, Portuguese, Greek, and Arabic.

Radio has both private and public (state) stations, with the latter having the only truly nationwide coverage. Deutsche Welle, BBC Radio, Radio France International, and Radio Free Europe have local FM broadcasting arrangements and are easily and clearly received. All but RFE do programs in both Bulgarian and their respective national languages (RFE does Bulgarian language news only). Bulgarian radio of both the private and state varieties offer some very good news, talk show, and music programming; however, a good grasp of Bulgarian is required for all but the music programs.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

Many general-interest publications, including English-, French-, and German-language newspapers and magazines are widely available in Sofia, though they tend to arrive a day late and are quite expensive. These, as well as a large variety of Bulgarian periodicals, are available in hotels and at street kiosks throughout the downtown area in Sofia.

Community Health

Apart from smog, coal dust, and pollen, which particularly affect people with sinus and respiratory problems (asthma sufferers in particular), Sofia has no special health hazards. Water, although deemed generally safe, should be distilled to remove heavy metals, mineral deposits, unusual taste, and color. Fluoride supplements are recommended for children up to age 16. Milk and butter are of uneven quality. Vegetables, fruits, and eggs should be thoroughly washed, but no other special treatment is necessary. Local pottery should not be used for cooking, storing, or serving food, as it may leach lead from local paints and glazes. Municipal services generally collect garbage and trash regularly, and there is a regimen of sweeping the city streets.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

Flights on American carriers from the U.S. fly to Frankfurt, Paris, London, Vienna, Zurich, and Munich. From these cities, foreign airlines provide reasonably good connections to Sofia. To avoid possible conflict with the Fly America Act, consider Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, or Vienna as the nearest points to Sofia served by an American carrier. Note that Sofia time is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)/Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) + 2, whereas Yugoslavia and the countries of central and Western Europe are on GMT/UTC + 1.

A passport is required. A visa is not required for U.S. citizen visitors using regular passports for stays up to 30 days. Travelers who intend to stay more than 30 days, or travelers using official or diplomatic passports, must obtain a special 30 day visa from a Bulgarian embassy or consulate. Once in Bulgaria, this visa gives them grounds to apply for a residence permit. Travelers who have a 1-year multiple-entry visa for Bulgaria may stay up to 90 days altogether within six months. If a traveler comes to Bulgaria, stays in the country 90 days and then goes out, he or she will not be able to enter the country within the next 90 days.

All travelers are required to register with the regional passport office for foreigners or the police within 48 hours after their arrival in the country and to inform the office about any change in their address. For those staying at a hotel, a private boarding house or an apartment rented through an accommodation company, registration is taken care of by the proprietor. Visitors should carry their passport with them at all times. The Bulgarian authorities do not consider presentation of a copy of one's passport to be sufficient. For further information concerning entry requirements, travelers should contact the Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria at 1621 22nd St. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008; Internet http://www.bulgaria-embassy.org, tel. (202) 483-5885 (main switchboard (202) 387-7969) or the Bulgarian Consulate in New York City.

Travelers carrying cash equivalent to 5,000 Bulgarian leva (about $2,200) or more must declare the amount they are carrying on a customs declaration upon arrival or departure. Failure to declare currency and jewelry or improper exit from the customs area through the "green" (nothing to declare) line have resulted in confiscation of the currency or the jewelry and, in some cases, arrest. Travelers who have with them the equivalent of 20,000 Bulgarian leva or more upon departure must have a permit to export the money issued by the Bulgarian National Bank's Headquarters, if they had less than the equivalent of 20,000 Bulgarian leva upon entry in the country. Travelers should also declare jewelry, cameras, computers, and other valuables to avoid difficulties on departure. Please contact the Embassy of Bulgaria in Washington, D.C. or one of Bulgaria's consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs regulations.

Americans living in or visiting Bulgaria are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Bulgaria and obtain updated information on travel and security within Bulgaria. The U.S. Embassy is located in Sofia at 1 Suborna (formerly 1 A. Stamboliyski Boulevard); tel. (359) (2) 937-5100; fax (359) (2) 981-8977. The Consular Section of the Embassy is located at 1 Kapitan Andreev Street in Sofia; tel. (359) (2) 963-2022; fax (359) (2) 963-2859. The Embassy's web site address is http://www.usis.bg. Questions regarding consular services may be directed via e-mail to: [email protected], [email protected] and [email protected].

Pets

Dogs and cats are admitted to Bulgaria with proof of current rabies shot and health certificate that should be obtained before arrival. Examination by a Bulgarian veterinarian is required upon arrival. Dogs should be licensed. Satisfactory veterinary care is available in Sofia, as well as most vaccines and medications.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

The unit of currency is the lev (plural: leva). Currency notes are available in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 leva. Coinage includes 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 stotinki (100 stotinki = 1 lev). The lev is pegged to the euro at 1.956 leva per euro.

Bulgaria is still a largely cash economy. Visitors should exchange cash at banks or Change Bureaus. Some Change Bureaus charge commissions on both cash and travelers' check transactions that are not clearly posted. People on the street who offer high rates of exchange are usually con artists intent on swindling the unwary traveler. Damaged or very worn U.S dollar bank notes are often not accepted at banks or Change Bureaus. Major branches of the following Bulgarian banks will cash travelers' checks on the spot for leva, the Bulgarian currency, or other desired currency: Bulbank, Bulgarian Postbank, Biochim, First Investment Bank and United Bulgarian Bank (UBB). UBB also serves as a Western Union agent and provides direct transfer of money to travelers in need. ATM cash machines are increasing in numbers in Sofia and other major cities. Major credit cards (MC, VISA, AMEX, etc.) can be used at a few establishments in and around Bulgaria (hotels, restaurants, and other tourist establishments), but usage is very low and is not recommended due to the risk of credit card fraud. Credit cards are useful when ordering goods from mail order houses in the States and from overseas duty-free supply companies like Peter Justesen.