Turkey

TURKEY

Republic of Turkey

Major Cities:
Ankara, Istanbul, Adana, Izmir

Other Cities:
Antalya, Bursa, Eskişehir, Gaziantep, Kayseri, Kirikkale, Konya, Maraş, Mersin, Samsun

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated June 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

No other nation spans two continents, incorporating such topographical diversity, so many strata of archeological wonders, and as much disparate, natural beauty as TURKEY. The northern Black Sea shores are cool and green, interspersed with lush rain forests and alpine mountains, while the hot, southern coasts are lined with magnificent rocky mountains reaching down to beaches varying from pebbled to smooth, white sand. The flat Anatolian plateau is interrupted here and there by lakes and hills or low mountains. The eastern portion of the country has alkaline volcanic lakes and is characterized by desert-like sparseness and impressive, stark mountains.

Amidst this natural setting are nestled countless artifacts, proof of the extraordinary role this land has played throughout history—from biblical Mount Ararat, a pilgrimage site for climbers in search of Noah's Ark, to the incomparable vitality and bustle of Istanbul. To come upon the natural "fairy chimneys" of Cappadocia, whose distinctive stone hills were carved out to create dwellings, churches and monasteries, some still ornate with age-old frescoes, or to crawl through the underground troglodyte cities nearby, is to imagine a civilization like none other. To see the exquisite riches of the ancient Hittite civilizations and the imposing amphitheaters of old is, simply, to delight in the history of man.

To live in Turkey is not just to be tempted by the infinite sites to explore or seas to sail. It is to indulge in the delectable cuisine, to shop, bargaining for carpets, kilims, and copperware and, always, to be challenged and surprised. Turks are among the world's most gracious, hospitable people (except when driving). Yet, Turkey has a schizophrenic society where old and new, west and east, and numerous ethnicities and religious strains struggle to live harmoniously—a struggle that has become second nature to a Turk. Infinite proverbs and polite phrases, known to all Turks, serve as a universal tonic when times are bad and shared salutations in happy moments. They indicate a bond between the common good and the will to develop and persevere as a nation despite all the difficulties and divisions the country confronts.

Turkey's importance has not diminished with the end of the Cold War. As successor to the vast and influential Ottoman Empire, the modern republic of Turkey lies in a position strategic to the interests of many nations, including the United States, whose futures depend to some greater or lesser extent on Turkey's future. Turkey borders the Middle East, the newly independent states of the Caucasus and Central Asia, eastern Europe and the Mediterranean; its international influence is substantial. Domestically, Turkey struggles with chronically high inflation, an overlarge public sector and the need to support and capture a large unofficial economy; the country endeavors to balance the aspirations of its citizens of Kurdish descent and its conflict with the separatist terrorists of the Kurdistan Worker's Party (PKK), and to contend with difficult neighbors on all sides. Turkey's politics and economy are complicated and intriguing.

Ataturk, the founder and father of modern Turkey, coined the still popular saying, "Ne mutlu Turkum diyene"—"Happy is he who says I am a Turk." A foreigner will never fully comprehend what it means to be a Turk, nor will he ever feel he has learned all this country has to offer. It is a fascinating place with endless challenges for the outsider. The first thing a newcomer to Turkey is likely to hear is "Hos Geldiniz"—"Welcome." Most find it a pleasure to respond sincerely with the traditional, "Hos Bulduk"—"Pleased to be here."

MAJOR CITIES

Ankara

Turkey's capital, Ankara, is located in the western portion of the Anatolian plateau at an altitude of 3,000 feet. It has a population of over 2.9 million and is situated at the bottom and up the sides of a deep bowl formed by bare, low mountains. The climate is pleasant; its rare extremes of hot and cold are moderated by the year-round dryness of the air and, in summer, by a mild breeze. Smog, though considerably improved in recent years with increased use of natural gas rather than lignite coal, gives the city a drab appearance for much of the winter.

Ankara was a provincial town when Ataturk established the capital along with the new Republic there in 1923. The city is modern, with wide boulevards intersecting at large circles often congested with bustling traffic. The architecture of the many government office buildings is generally a stark, concrete block style. Pleasant, tree-shaded streets with attractive gardens are disappearing rapidly as the city struggles to keep up with its influx of population. Single-family homes are rare today, having been replaced by a steadily increasing number of large apartment buildings. Nevertheless, modern Ankara has some pleasant parks, many with playground equipment for children. (Sidewalks, where present, are often uneven and discontinuous, making the use of strollers less convenient than backpacks for carrying babies.) Compared to other cities in Turkey, Ankara is quite livable; where it lacks charm, it gains convenience. Perhaps its most redeeming features are the steep hills upon which Ankara is built, providing for countless, panoramic views all over the city.

Ulus, the old city built around the ancient Byzantine citadel situated atop a steep hill, is dramatically different from the rest of Ankara. Its steep, winding streets, mosques, and small houses give it a quaintness and appeal that is lacking in the new parts of the city. Here you may still come upon an Anatolian peasant woman colorfully clad in traditional clothing, kneeling on the cobblestones while she rhythmically beats freshly shorn wool with a stick. The smell of newly baked bread emanates from crooked, high windows adorned with dangling, red peppers. Shops' wares—copper and plastic, carpets, antiques, electrical paraphernalia and handmade baskets—overflow into the narrow streets, showing a lackadaisical disregard for contrasts of old and new. Ulus will remain the heart of Ankara, no matter how fashionable or modern other areas of the city become.

Roughly 1,000 Americans live in Ankara, including military and civilian employees of the U.S. government, exchange students and professors, business representatives, spouses and dependents. Except for business representatives from western Europe, the rest of the foreign community is primarily diplomatic (composed of 113 diplomatic missions). American visitors to Ankara more often come on business than as tourists.

Food

For daily household needs local markets offer a good selection of food products and fresh produce. Neighborhood groceries (known as bakkal s) sell most staples and offer store-to-door delivery. Availability of fresh produce varies seasonally. Stores similar to supermarkets in America recently have opened in Ankara. Generally, most needs can be met on the local market, but imported goods are often expensive and shopping may take several stops, since specialty items often are stocked inconsistently.

Ankara has several restaurants that have become favorites in the foreign community. They range from Turkish to Italian, Chinese and international cuisines. Small kebab joints abound and American-type fast food places are beginning to catch on in Turkey. Ankara's fourth McDonald's has just opened.

Clothing

Wardrobes can be supplemented easily by buying on the local economy. Clothing stores or tailor-made items of good quality are readily available. Taste in clothing in Turkish circles is similar to American taste, although Turkish women often wear dressier and more formal clothes to many social affairs.

Plan family wardrobes for Ankara's four-season climate. The summer months bring hot days and cool evenings. Men generally wear lightweight suits during the hot months. Shorts and sleeveless tops are more and more frequently seen on the streets, but women may feel less conspicuous in skirts and shirts with short sleeves. Swimming is a popular pastime during the hot summer months. Winter months can be cold and windy, requiring clothes similar to those needed for Washington, D.C. winters. Good rain gear, winter boots and gloves, and comfortable walking shoes are useful. It is a Turkish custom to remove shoes upon entering the home; many Americans adopt this practice, in which case slippers are needed to wear indoors during cold months and to offer guests who remove their shoes when they visit.

Supplies and Services

Toiletries, cosmetics, personal hygiene products, tobacco items, fabrics, toys, small appliances, housekeeping supplies, entertaining needs, household repair items and various other commonly-used items are available, though sometimes limited in selection and quality, on the Turkish economy.

Local tailors, dressmakers, hair stylists, shoemakers, dry cleaners and other assorted services are available. Quality of work may vary, but overall, results have been very acceptable.

Religious Activities

Interdenominational Protestant worship services are held each Sunday at the Department of Defense Dependents (DoDD) School. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints also meets each Sunday at the school. Roman Catholic services are held at the French Embassy chapel, Italian Embassy chapel, and the Vatican Embassy chapel. Some Americans attend the Church of St. Nicolas, of the Worldwide Anglican Communion, which is located on the British Embassy compound. The Ankara Baptist Church holds services each Sunday in a member's home. Most of these groups have active auxiliary organizations.

A congregation of Turkish Sephardic Jews has a synagogue in the old part of Ankara.

Education

Department of Defense Dependents Schools (DoDDS) operates a school system for grades Kindergarten (mornings only) through 12. The school is at the American Support Facility (ASF) in Balgat. Dependent children of employees of all U.S. government agencies in Ankara are eligible to enter the elementary and high schools. Other non-Turkish students may be admitted on a space-available, tuition-paying basis. The school's address is:

George C. Marshall School
Unit 7010
APO AE 09822
Telephone: 90-312-287-2532, fax: 90-312-285-1791

The annual academic tuition rates are established by DoDDS in Washington, D.C. Registration for eligible children is ongoing throughout the summer. Children can be registered when they arrive in Ankara.

The school curriculum is similar to that of public schools in the U.S. In addition to the regular curriculum, courses sometimes can be arranged to meet students' special needs. To enter kindergarten a child must be age five on or before October 31st of the year they enroll. To enter the first grade a child must be age six on or before October 31st of the year they enroll. Admission to the various grades in the high school is contingent upon satisfactory completion of the preceding grade or its equivalent.

The faculty is recruited in the U.S. under the Department of Defense Educational System. At the present time about 90% of the faculty have Master's degrees; the remainder have Bachelor's degrees. The teachers have had an average of eighteen years of experience and about half of the school's faculty has been in Turkey over ten years.

In addition to the usual facilities, the school has a large gymnasium and an outdoor track, soccer field, and playground, well-equipped special purpose rooms for art, music, general science, biology, chemistry, physics, mechanical drawing, industrial arts and home economics. There is no school lunch program; most children bring bag lunches from home. The high school has an active program of extracurricular activities, including interscholastic sports, journalism, band (instruments furnished), choral groups, and host nation activities.

The high school is accredited by the North Central Association of Colleges and Schools. The school uses the A-B-C-D-F grading system. There is a Parent-Teacher-Student Organization and a School Advisory Council.

The British, French and German Embassies operate study groups (schools), that enroll students of other nationalities. The British and French Schools go through the equivalent of the primary grades and have three terms per year. The German School extends through the equivalent of grade 10.

The British Embassy Study Group provides a British-style education based on the Common Entrance Examination syllabi for entrance to private schools in the U.K. The Study Group's present building, set on the grounds of the British Embassy, was built in 1964. The premises contain classrooms, a well-stocked library, computer resource room, hall/gymnasium and administration offices. There is an active Parent Teacher Association. Entrance priority is given first to British students and next to native English speakers.

Bilkent University Prep School is a private Turkish school taught in English. The school is expanding by one grade level per year and will have pre-grade six "prep" class through grade 12 by fall term 1997. Class size is limited to 20 students. The curriculum has a structure similar to the English National Curriculum but departs from it occasionally to suit the multi-cultural student body. The International General Certificate of Secondary Education curriculum is offered in grades nine and 10 and the International Baccalaureate curriculum in grades 11 and 12. Bilkent Prep's facilities include a sports hall, a band room and a general music room, two fully equipped science labs, audio visual rooms, a computer lab, ceramics and art rooms as well as ample classrooms. There is also a cafeteria which provides lunch.

There are a few excellent preschools taught in English, including the British Embassy Study Group which accepts children during the term in which they turn three years old, and the International Preschool.

College degree programs are available from Turkish universities, many of which are taught in English. Part-time attendance is not common in Turkey. Incirlik Air Base in Adana oversees University of Maryland and City College of Chicago extension programs in Adana and Ankara.

Sports

Sports in and around Ankara include tennis, softball, bowling, flag football, basketball, jogging, hunting, handball, squash, racquet-ball, weight-lifting, aerobics, fishing, swimming, ice skating and skiing. The DoDD School at the ASF in Balgat has a gym, weight room and racquetball court which are available after school hours for use by the American community. The Hash House Harriers have an active contingents in Ankara. They gather each Wednesday evening and Sunday afternoon to run somewhere in or around the city and occasionally travel to other parts of the country for additional fun on the run.

The Hilton and Sheraton Hotels offer year-round swimming pool/health club memberships. Sports International is a new sports and fitness club located near Bilkent University. The facility, built by a U.S.-Turkish joint venture, is well-maintained and impressive: it has both indoor and outdoor pools, numerous tennis courts, fitness equipment, a gymnasium and separate aerobics room, nutrition and fitness counseling, social areas, a restaurant and a cafe, saunas, solariums, a steam room, and a large child care/play area. Membership fees are high, although membership in a comparable fitness club in Washington, D.C. no doubt would be more expensive. There are other small fitness clubs located throughout the city offering workout equipment and aerobics classes.

Fairly good skiing is available in areas not too far from Ankara. The slope closest to the city is Elmadag, which offers a small T-bar lift, a nice lodge and restaurant, plus a small hill for sledding. Kartalkaya, near Bolu, about three and a half hours north of Ankara, offers several beginner and intermediate runs and has two large hotels. Uludag, near Bursa, is a popular, more upscale skiing spot with many good hotels and lifts. More adventurous skiing is available at Mt. Erciyes near Kayseri and near Erzurum in eastern Turkey. Ice skating and ice hockey are available at a large, modern, indoor ice skating rink in Ankara.

There are good freshwater fishing spots within three to five hours drive from Ankara. The rivers and streams of eastern Turkey, although difficult to reach, provide excellent trout fishing. Other freshwater fish such as giant catfish, carp, pike and bass, lurk in various corners of Turkey. At this time a fishing license is not required; however, there are specific fishing seasons. A hunting license is required for all game. Duck, geese, partridge, wild boar, wolf and numerous smaller game exist in many areas. Turkey also has its own species of quail and wild turkey. Often local forestry stations impose a substantial, additional fee for hunting in their jurisdictions.

Sports equipment such as tennis rackets and balls, softball gear, wet-suits and snorkels, are expensive and difficult to get in Turkey. The government of Turkey permits limited importation of shotguns and rifles.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

There are fine beaches on the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul, along the Aegean coast north and south of Izmir, along the Mediterranean coast, and at resort areas on the Black Sea.

More and more areas of Turkey are being set aside for camping. Many national parks and forestry camps have been developed in the past few years near popular beach resorts and tourist sites. Most campsites are well-suited for tents. Many Americans bring camping equipment with them and find camping an enjoyable way to vacation in Turkey.

Ankara has a few, small, neighborhood parks, some with simple playground equipment. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to walk on the grass and the children's equipment is often broken and located on cement or hard-packed dirt. Since there is virtually no shade in the parks, the hot summer sun often prohibits playing on the metal equipment, and in winter the parks are muddy. The large Youth Park (Genclik Park) in the center of the city contains restaurants and promenades, a boating lake, a children's playground, and a permanent midway with rides and attractions reminiscent of a country fair. Eymir Lake, affiliated with Middle East Technical University, offers a pleasant place to walk and picnic, and limited boating facilities. The current fee is about $40 per year for a family permit to the lake. Golbasi Lake is just outside of Ankara and accessible for walks and rowboat rental without a permit.

The old part of town, Ulus, has several ancient monuments which reveal the remarkable contrast of old and new in Ankara. The Byzantine citadel perches atop one of the two hills on which Ulus was built. Although the outer citadel walls have been destroyed or have fallen in ruins, the inner fortress still stands. The Roman baths date from the third century A.D. Little remains, but the baths still retain much of the essence of the original structure. Julian's Column near Ulus Square dates from the fourth century. It is thought that the monument was erected to commemorate a visit by Emperor Julian the Apostate to Ankara.

The Temple of Augustus was built in the late first century B.C. About five hundred years later, it was made into a Christian church and then in the fifteenth century one of its walls was used as a support for the roof of the Haci Bayram Mosque. The walls of this marble temple are still standing and bear the famous inscription in both Greek and Latin, "The Achievements of the Deified Augustus," a political autobiography of the Emperor.

Within the walls of the citadel is the Alaeddin Mosque, built in 1178 and renovated several times during the Ottoman Empire. Inscriptions on its finely carved, walnut pulpit that remain from its origins indicate it was built by the Seljuk Turks. Another Seljuk mosque, the Aslanhane Camii, or Lion House Mosque, built in 1289, still has its original structure and is noteworthy for its period wood-and tile-work.

Ankara houses two of the country's finest museums: the Ethnographic Museum which contains an extensive collection of old Turkish costumes, calligraphy, wood carvings, copper, brass, ceramics and pottery, and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations which has the world's finest collection of Hittite artifacts. The Anatolian Civilizations museum is housed in a 15th century "karavansaray" adjacent to the citadel.

Konya, ancient Iconium, is a four hour drive from Ankara. It was the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum and contains many monuments dating from that period. Here also are the tombs and the chapter-house of the Turkish Islamic mystic, Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, founder of the 13th century order of dervishes widely known for their ethereal dancing. Every December many travel to Konya to see the festival of the Whirling Dervishes held in commemoration of their founder's death.

Kayseri is also a four hour drive from Ankara. Situated at the foot of Mt. Erciyes, it is rich in Seljuk architecture and decorative arts, most of which lie within its well-preserved medieval fortress. Near Kayseri is the area known as Cappadocia with a surreal landscape from the erosion of the soft layer of tufa stone. The countryside is a mass of stone waves that rise into pinnacles known as peri bacalari or "fairy chimneys." Early Christians carved these cones into homes, monasteries and churches, some still magnificently ornate with frescoes. The nearby underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli are but two of numerous troglodyte habitats in the area. These subterranean cities are fantastic to see, with their extensive ventilation shafts, round millstone-like doors and rooms that extend as deep as ten stories; it is believed that they were inhabited as early as pre-Christian times, and up until 1839 when locals sought refuge from the besieging Egyptian army.

Amasya, on the banks of the Yesil Irmak (Green River), is about five hours northeast of Ankara. The city is dominated by a massive cliff with the tombs of Pontic Kings carved into its face and ruins of the ancient fortress built when the kingdom was founded. Throughout the town are well-preserved examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture.

The Black Sea town of Amasra is about four hours by car from Ankara. Safronbolu, en route to Amasra, is known for its fine examples of Ottoman architecture, many of which recently have been renovated. Black Sea towns offer simple hotels and camping areas near pleasant, quiet beaches. Bolu, on the way to Istanbul, is about a three hour drive northwest of Ankara. Nearby is Lake Abant where you may fish, boat or swim. A hotel overlooking the lake provides good accommodations.

Istanbul is now five or so hours drive from Ankara, depending on how fast your car will go—or how fast you will let it go. The new super toll highway linking the two cities is complete except for the tunnel through the mountain at Bolu. Once the tunnel is complete, the drive will be quick and painless, given decent weather. As it is, the area around Bolu can be congested and dangerous with trucks and foolhardy drivers daring blindly to pass them. Some still prefer to fly to Istanbul, get a sleeper car on the overnight train, or travel by intercity buses—especially the smoke-free, double-decker buses with dining and toilet facilities.

Entertainment

The Turkish State Opera and the Turkish State Conservatory are located in Ankara. The Presidential Symphony Orchestra offers two performances a week during its regular season. Several theaters present decent plays in Turkish. Occasionally touring foreign companies visit. USIS and the cultural departments of other embassies, especially the French and the British, sponsor musical and theatrical performances. Tickets for all of these are very modestly priced. The Turkish American Association sponsors concerts, lectures, movies and art exhibitions.

In addition to Turkish films, local movie theaters present American and European movies with Turkish subtitles.

Social Activities

There are numerous opportunities for activities within the American community in Ankara. Activities for children and teenagers generally revolve around the DoDD School. Active Boy and Girl Scout programs and youth sports programs involve many children and adult volunteers to run them.

The Ankara Women's Club provides monthly social and cultural programs for its members. The Ankara Professional Women's Network was founded as a forum for women who work or would like to work in Turkey and hosts periodic lectures and seminars. It aims to create a network of support readily accessible to foreign women who wish to work in Ankara; obviously, efforts to negotiate a bilateral work agreement are of great interest. The U.S. Embassy's Community Center, based in a small apartment in one of the embassy-leased buildings, is run on a member-volunteer basis and offers mother-toddler, bridge players', and cooking groups and other events members organize. The Community Center is open to the greater American community, and others on an associate member, space available basis. The ERA hosts occasional TGIF parties, Block Parties, Happy Hours and other seasonal events such as the winter Holiday Bazaar and a Fourth of July party. The greater American community and other guests are invited to these events.

Friends of ARIT was formed in 1983 by Americans in the Ankara community interested in the art, history and archaeology of Turkey to help promote the work of the Ankara Branch of ARIT (American Research Institute in Turkey). Friends of ARIT frequently sponsors lectures given by visiting or local scholars, informative tours around Turkey's archaeological sites, and benefit dinners. The ARIT library has a specialized collection of books and periodicals on archaeology in Turkey.

Many of the organizations mentioned above also offer opportunities for meeting Turks and other foreign nationals. There are several avenues for contributing to and volunteering for charitable organizations, including the Turkish-American Women's Cultural and Charitable Society, an active volunteer group with an international membership. The Cocuk Sevenler Dernegi (Child Lovers' Society) gives volunteer help to orphans in the Ankara area, and also has an international membership. The need for volunteer work is great, newcomers are always welcome, and any contribution is appreciated. The Turkish-American Association cosponsors an annual ARIT lecture series on archaeology. It also organizes guided tours for its members to areas of archaeological and scenic interest.

Istanbul

The mention of Istanbul evokes romantic images of the imperial sultans, janissaries and harems of the Ottoman Empire, of Byron and Keats who immortalized through verse the glories of Byzantium, of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the Orient Express. Istanbul has never been a monolithic Turkish city, but rather a cosmopolitan blend of nationalities. In 1906, only 44% of its 870,000 residents were Turkish or Arab Moslems. In the period from 1839-1880, large numbers of European workers and tradesmen settled in Pera on the European side of the Bosphorus, north of the Golden Horn, where they built hotels, houses and palaces and demanded a higher standard of city services. The remainder were a pastiche of Greeks, Armenians, Jews and foreigners from all over Europe. Old Stamboul, south of the Golden Horn and heavily Moslem, languished and suffered from the terrible destruction of the city's frequent fires. The European residents of Pera brought in urban planners from Germany and Italy who replaced traditional wooden structures with buildings made of stone. This created a European oasis in Istanbul, a distinction from the rest of the city that remains today.

Many middle-and upper-class members of contemporary Istanbul society are pro-western and consider themselves European. The city is a unique synthesis of east and west upon the exotic echoes of ancient Byzantium and old Constantinople. Simultaneously, it is a bustling, modern, industrial city of 8 million people. There is no end to the fascination of Istanbul. Those fortunate enough to be assigned to a tour of duty here should find it an enriching experience.

Food

Istanbul markets offer a wide selection of excellent, seasonal fresh fruits and vegetables. Each neighborhood has its own bakkal (small grocery), as well as fresh fruit and vegetable markets. Beef, lamb, mutton and chicken are available from local butchers. Fresh fish is available in season. There are a growing number of large supermarkets, which carry a wide range of local and imported foodstuffs. Turkish bread, baked throughout the day, is excellent. Local pastries, bottled fruit drinks, and other local foodstuffs are plentiful.

The overall quality of food in Istanbul is excellent. There are numerous restaurants throughout the city, ranging from tiny kebab shops to luxurious fish restaurants along the Bosphorus. Istanbul has a growing number of fast-food restaurants, including McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Wimpy's, and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Clothing

Turks' taste in clothing is similar to that of Americans, but Turks generally wear dressier and more formal clothes to social affairs. Clothing stores feature current women's fashions in every price range, although at prices above those for comparable clothing in the U.S. and with a limited range of sizes. Local fabrics are available for those who sew or wish to hire a dressmaker. Many items can be made locally at reasonable prices. Locally made leather wear is a particularly good buy. Since the temperatures in Istanbul resemble those of Washington, D.C., clothing for all seasons is needed. Homes are generally maintained at cooler temperatures in Istanbul than in the U.S. Raincoats and boots are necessary because of winter rain and mud. Shoe selection is limited.

Men: Sportswear, shirts, sweaters, and other items may be purchased locally. The quality of these items ranges from acceptable to excellent; prices are higher than in the U.S. for comparable quality goods. Some local tailors are satisfactory for suits and jackets.

Women: Women should bring at least a couple of dresses or suits appropriate for receptions or dinners. Turkish women often wear black; a dark dress or suit would be useful. Long evening dresses are worn infrequently; but one or two suitable for the occasional black tie dinner might be needed. A long wool or velveteen skirt is worthwhile for cold winter evenings.

Children: Some children's clothing and shoes are also available locally in Turkish stores, but prices are high, even for Turkish-made items.

Supplies and Services

Foreign and local toiletries and cosmetics are available on the local market, but at substantially higher prices than in the U.S. Pharmaceuticals are often in short supply on the local market. Miscellaneous household supplies and gadgets are available locally. Bookstores sell English-language newspapers, magazines and books but at prices higher than in the U.S.

Shoe, watch, radio, phonograph, and automobile repair facilities are available. The quality of work varies. There are several excellent dry cleaning shops, though quality varies.

Religious Activities

Religious groups represented in Istanbul include Anglican, Protestant, Roman Catholic, Gregorian, Armenian, Greek Orthodox, and Jewish. Each has its charitable organizations and societies. Two social welfare centers originally founded as branches of the Young Men's and Young Women's Christian Associations are directed by Americans but are now registered as local institutions with Turkish names.

Several Roman Catholic churches are located throughout the city and offer services in English. The Cathedral of the Holy Spirit is directly across the street from the Hilton Hotel, and services in English are also held at the Church of St. Anthony in Beyoglu and in the Chapel of the Little Sisters of the Poor (in Sisli). The Anglican Community holds services at the Crimean Church near the Consulate, and once a month on the grounds of the British Consulate General (also not far from the U.S. Consulate). Protestant services in English are held in the Interdenominational Union Church (Dutch Chapel). The Jewish Community is mostly Sephardic; synagogues are Orthodox.

Education

English-language schooling for American dependents in Istanbul is available through grade 10. Schooling is available beyond this level, but the schools either do not readily accept American students or are inadequate.

American children from kindergarten through grade 10 usually attend the Istanbul International Community School (IICS), an autonomous school originally affiliated with Robert College. The school is directed by an American headmaster and follows a combined American/International curriculum. A school board representing parents is responsible for educational, financial, and personnel policies. The school is working towards a European Council of International Schools accreditation. Students from IICS have been readily accepted by schools in the U.S. and Europe. Standardized achievement and aptitude tests are given at all grade levels. The school is a member of the Educational Records Bureau and the Educational Testing Service, and is a test center for the Secondary School Admission Test (SSAT). The school's curriculum includes science, computers, mathematics, art, music, physical education, French, and Turkish. The school has a library of about 5,000 volumes. The school does not provide lunch. IICS receives grant assistance from the State Department Office of Overseas Schools. Information on the school is available from the annual school fact sheets prepared by that office.

School opens in late August and closes in late June, providing about 180 days of instruction. The calendar is similar to that of American schools, but with two-week vacations at Christmas and in the spring. Average yearly enrollment is 150 to 170 students representing 20 or more nationalities. Class size seldom exceeds 20 students.

There are long waiting lists of students seeking admission to IICS.

Sports

Istanbul offers a variety of sports facilities and activities. The ENKA Sports Club in Istinye has a full range of sports facilities, including tennis courts, Olympic-sized swimming pools, and indoor racket courts. However, membership fees are very expensive. Robert College in Arnavutkoy has a tennis court. The British Consulate General also has a tennis and squash court and Americans can become members of this club. The Hilton Hotel and some of the other five star hotels have tennis courts and gym facilities, but memberships are expensive. There are also a variety of sports clubs which offer free-weight or universal-gym weight training and/or aerobics classes.

Istanbul affords swimming opportunities at the sea of Marmara and the Black Sea; however, some areas are less polluted and safer for swimming than others. Some hotels have swimming pools. Again, memberships are very expensive. Opportunities for lap swimming are rare in Istanbul.

Istanbul entertains many boating fans. The best known of several yacht clubs is the Moda Club, located on the Sea of Marmara. Privileges at this club, including boat rentals, are for members only but foreigners may join. Sailing on the Bosphorus can be dangerous because of unpredictable winds and very strong currents, so it is not recommended for novices. Rowboats and runabouts are popular for sport fishing, and water skiing. Some Americans have brought motors from the U.S. to avoid paying high prices for those imported into Turkey. Locally produced boats and small motor craft, although usually expensive, may be purchased or rented.

Bird and duck hunting in the vicinity of Istanbul are fair, but game resources are depleted early in the season. Hunting season is from September to April. Small game within one or two hours drive of Istanbul include European quail, wild pigeon, woodcock, and duck. Wild boar are also hunted in Turkey.

Horseback riding is not very popular in Istanbul and facilities are limited. There is, however, a small riding academy. The academy offers lessons in riding and jumping for persons of all ages at reasonable rates (instruction is in Turkish). Bring safety helmets.

Uludag (near Bursa) and Kartalkaya (near Bolu on the Ankara road) offer good accommodations for skiing enthusiasts. Modern ski tows are in operation, and ski equipment may be rented inexpensively. Cross-country skiing trails are available, but rare. IICS sponsors a ski trip every winter to Uludag for its students, their parents, and other interested adults in the American community.

Istanbul has two nine-hole golf courses. Entry fees are expensive. Caddies charge reasonable fees but are not always available. Clubhouses serve refreshments. Squash courts are available to members of the British Consulate Club and their guests. Some fencing and ping-pong are available at the Hilton Tennis Club. Pickup basketball, volleyball, softball, and touch football games are organized occasionally. An ice-skating rink is located in the Galleria shopping mall near the airport. Fame City, a complex of video games and arcades, is also located in the Galleria.

Some individuals jog along the Bosphorus, but exhaust fumes and pollution take some of the joy out of this sort of activity. There are, however, fitness trails and jogging paths in the Belgrade Forest and in some wooded park areas of the city. The Hash House Harriers find weekly occasion to do their thing and encourage participation by all.

Soccer is the national mania; tickets to major games are scarce, but readily available for other games. Turkey's national team plays a confederation of middle European teams at home and abroad. There are professional basketball and volleyball teams, and the games are well-attended.

Children's Recreation

Istanbul has practically no children's sports facilities, although a few playgrounds and parks are in or near the city, such as Yildiz Park and Gulhane Park. Scouts and Brownies are very popular. Troops are organized through IICS. Other children's activities, such as an annual ski trip, are also organized through IICS.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

It is impossible to exaggerate the magnificence of the museums and variety of collections in Istanbul. Topkapi and Dolmabahce Palaces, and the Aya Sofya and Sultan Ahmet Mosque are but a few of the famous, grand monuments and treasures Istanbul has to offer. The Kariye museum, restored by Dumbarton Oaks, has some of the finest examples of Byzantine mosaics and frescoes in the world. The Archeological Museum has an extensive collection and the Museum of Ancient Oriental Art houses rare artifacts from Babylonian, Assyrian, Egyptian, and Hittite civilizations. Strolling through various quarters of the city or shopping at the incomparable covered bazaar are popular weekend pastimes.

Excellent sight-seeing tours are organized by the Turkish-American University Association and American Research Institute in Turkey. Lectures, films, and other cultural events are also sponsored by these groups, along with their annual fund-raising activities. Ferries crisscross the Bosphorus and the Marmara on regular runs. Some boats can be chartered. Touring outside Istanbul and around Turkey reveals abundant historical and scenic sites. Many posted to Istanbul enjoy a popular "mavi yolculuk," or "blue cruise" along the Aegean and Mediterranean coastlines and the Black Sea.

Ample opportunities exist for outdoor activities. A series of automobile camping sites has been established along well-traveled routes. The planning and implementation of hiking expeditions require individual initiative, as few organized groups or facilities exist. The many hotels are reasonably clean and uncrowded making Istanbul a good location from which to plan weekend getaways. There are historical sites of great interest in every direction and many are within a few hours drive or less from the city. Travel possibilities are practically limitless.

The Belgrade Forest, a park built around Istanbul's reservoir north of the city, has excellent picnic facilities. Permission has been obtained for Scouts and other groups to camp overnight within the park.

Entertainment

The Ataturk Cultural Center, located at Taksim Square in downtown Istanbul, is the center of the city's cultural life. The Center's cultural season runs from October to early June and includes opera and ballet as well as other productions. Plays are performed at several theaters throughout the city. The Istanbul orchestra has an annual concert program. The annual Istanbul Festival of Culture and the Arts takes place from mid-June until mid-July and is the highlight of the musical entertainment year. This international festival includes participants from many countries that have diplomatic representation in Turkey. Exciting music, dance, and theater events permeate the city and are reasonably priced.

Most of Istanbul's many movie houses show foreign films with Turkish subtitles. Each spring the city hosts the Istanbul International Film Festival which brings some of the best new foreign films to local screens.

Istanbul has many excellent restaurants ranging from kebab shops located throughout the city to more expensive fish restaurants on the Bosphorus to very expensive restaurants with European cuisines. Turkish cooking is varied, colorful, and delicious.

Istanbul also has an abundance of night clubs, taverns, discos, neighborhood bars, fast-food restaurants, casinos, cozy restaurants, tea gardens, waterside cafes, museums, exhibitions, art galleries, shopping malls, department stores, English-language bookstores, and Bosphorus cruises.

Although Istanbul is a remarkable, cosmopolitan city, increasingly congested traffic makes it difficult and time consuming to get out and do things, especially during messy winter days. Most programs (including English and American movies) on Turkish television have been dubbed in Turkish; occasionally these English-language programs are simulcast in the original language on one of the Turkish radio stations.

Social Activities

Most Americans in Istanbul are either of the U.S. government civilian, business, or institutional community. The latter includes teachers and others, many of whom have had broad and varied experiences in Turkey. Both the American Women of Istanbul and the International Women's Club sponsor a number of cultural, social, and charitable events throughout the year. Children's social contacts are largely organized through the IICS and Consulate-sponsored events.

Organizations such as the Turkish-American University Association (particularly the women's group), the Propeller Club, and Rotary Club provide excellent opportunities to meet Turks. Tours organized by local agencies also offer these opportunities. The non-Turkish speaker may find himself somewhat limited in his contacts. Nonetheless, Turks are very patient, friendly and hospitable, and many speak English, German, or French.

Istanbul has a large consular corps and foreign business community. The Propeller Club is a good introduction to foreign and Turkish business representatives. The International Women's Club of Istanbul holds monthly meetings and sponsors a variety of activities. The American Girls Dershane (originally a YMCA project), the Vehbi Koc Vakfi American Hospital and other charities afford those who are interested a chance to assist local groups and to meet members of the Turkish and international communities.

Adana

Adana is 30 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, a five to seven hour drive from Ankara and eight hours by car from Damascus. The fifth largest city in Turkey with a population of over one million, it is a wealthy provincial capital on the rich delta plain of the area once known as Cilicia. Adana is a rapidly expanding agricultural and industrial center. The old town center lies along the banks of the Seyhan River. As in many Turkish cities, this original hub is surrounded by newer residential areas and fringed with squatter settlements. New Adana lies to the north, between the railroad and Cukurova University, on the lake formed by the Seyhan Dam.

Adana has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Excavations at Tarsus and Mersin (within an hour's drive of Adana) have exposed layers of civilizations going back to Neolithic times, possibly as early as 6000 B.C. Numerous powers have dominated and settled Adana as they fought their way across Anatolia. Alexander the Great passed through the area when he destroyed the Persian Empire and conquered the Middle East. After Alexander's death, Adana became part of the Seleucid State. The area was conquered by the Romans after centuries of Greek rule. Reminiscent of Roman rule is a stone bridge built by Hadrian across the Seyhan River that is still in use today. In 1132 A.D., Armenians took over Adana and it became a center of Armenian culture. In 1515 it was captured by the Turks. It remained a part of the Ottoman Empire until the end of World War I.

Adana's summers are hot and humid with very little rainfall. In winter the temperature rarely falls below freezing, yet rains that last for days make it seem colder. Fall and spring are magnificent with sunny days and pleasantly cool evenings. When compared to the U.S. the climate of Adana resembles that of the cotton growing areas of Mississippi and Texas. The Cilician plain (now called Cukurova) has been described as the "Texas of Turkey," where cotton and citrus fruits are the principal crops, and wealthy farmers and textile manufacturers dominate the region's economy.

Adana is connected with the rest of Turkey by a good system of roads, and with Ankara and Istanbul by daily air and train service. Coastal steamers call at nearby Iskenderun and Mersin en route to Turkish ports and Northern Cyprus. Travel on secondary roads is difficult during the rainy seasons, but feasible throughout the rest of the year. Transportation within the city includes both motor and horse-drawn vehicles.

Most of the American community is made up of U.S. Air Force and attached U.S. government civilian personnel stationed at Incirlik, a Turkish air base nine miles east of the city. About 500 American families reside in Adana proper. Given the large local Kurdish population, Kurdish is widely spoken in the eastern provinces. Many Turks in the area also speak some Arabic or another European language, but English is the most common second language for businessmen.

Food

Food supplies on the local market vary widely according to the season. In the fall and winter months, meats, fruits and vegetables are plentiful. Local beef and lamb are inexpensive and easy to find although quality may vary. Fruits and vegetables are seasonal but abundant, inexpensive, and of excellent quality. Local pastries and bread are quite good.

A liquor store at Incirlik carries wine, beer, spirits and liqueurs. Spirits are rationed to five bottles per person per month. Good Turkish wines are available on the local market.

Clothing

In the intense summer heat, lightweight cottons and washable fabrics are most comfortable. Sports attire and swimming suits are useful for picnics and beach parties. During the winter, warm clothing is necessary since seasonal rains bring damp cold. Indoor clothing needs to be warmer than normally worn in U.S. homes since the apartments are heated less; medium-weight coats are sufficient for outdoors. Raincoats, boots and umbrellas are also necessary during the winter rainy season. Ready-made clothing of suitable quality and style is usually available. Adana has good tailors and dressmakers. Good local fabrics are also available.

During the summer and warm months of spring and fall, local custom is going tieless and coatless in short-sleeved shirts. Summer suits or sports coats are normally worn only for evening social functions. At daytime social functions, Turkish women wear attractive dressy suits and afternoon dresses. Women customarily go without stockings during the hot summer months. Most foreign women feel self-conscious on the streets in shorts or sleeveless clothes. At dinners and cocktail parties, well-to-do Turkish women wear European fashions either purchased abroad or made by local dressmakers after European fashions. Evening wear is usually dark or black. Turkish businesswomen wear attire appropriate for the season and similar in style to that worn by American businesswomen.

During both summer and winter, children need clothing that will survive the many washings necessary after play in alternating dust and mud. This means many changes of light cotton clothes in the summer and numerous sweaters and overalls in the winter.

Supplies and Services

Community services are adequate. Good barbering is available both at Incirlik and in Adana proper. Several beauty shops in town are satisfactory. Adequate dry cleaners exist locally and at Incirlik.

Religious Activities

The USAF Chapel at Incirlik offers Catholic and Protestant services. There is also a Catholic Church in downtown Adana. Jewish, Mormon and other denominational services occasionally are held at Incirlik. Adana has a small Jewish community and a synagogue.

Education

Children of U.S. government personnel attend the dependent school at Incirlik on a tuition basis. The school, fully accredited by the North Central Association, offers kindergarten through high school. Pre-school is available at Incirlik for three-and four-year-olds.

Sports

A gymnasium, swimming pool, tennis courts, handball and squash

courts, a nine-hole golf course, and a bowling alley at Incirlik are open to American citizens.

Ample opportunity for hunting (license necessary and available to diplomats only) and fishing exists within a day's drive of Adana. Wild boar are found near Tarsus and migratory waterfowl gather in the salt marshes south of Adana. Trout fishing is available in the mountains near Kahramanmaras.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Recreation for most Americans revolves around picnicking and swimming. The nearby beaches and mountains provide relief from the heat on weekends. Beaches along the Mediterranean are undeveloped and beautiful. A few campgrounds have been established as part of the national program to attract tourists to Turkey. Several moderately-priced hotels with excellent beaches are within a two hour drive of Adana.

Adana is literally surrounded by undeveloped archeological sites. Ruins of medieval castles and cities from Greek to Armenian eras are within easy driving distance over good but heavily traveled roads. The Adana district is rich in historical sites, many dating back to Hittite times. The town of Tarsus, about 25 miles west of Adana on the Mersin Road, is renowned as the birthplace of St. Paul the Apostle.

Entertainment

There is little cultural activity in Adana. Occasional local theater productions are in Turkish. Numerous indoor and outdoor movie theaters feature Turkish, European and some American films. Foreign films usually have Turkish subtitles. The movie theater at Incirlik offers American movies, including a Saturday children's matinee. The best food served in local restaurants is Turkish, although some European dishes are offered. There are several nightclubs that offer dancing, food and snacks, and a variety of musical entertainment. Several clubs, hotels and restaurants patronized by Adana officials and business representatives are also enjoyed by Americans.

Social Activities

A large number of Americans posted to Adana reside in the village of Incirlik outside the base. Aside from cocktail and dinner parties at home, the social activities of the American military community center around the facilities at Incirlik.

Entertainment within the Turkish community consists largely of dinner parties during the fall, winter and spring to which Americans or other foreigners are frequently invited. In the summer months, Turkish wives and children move to Istanbul or to the mountains to escape the heat and humidity, and social life in Adana is virtually suspended. Even though many of the locals speak English, any effort made to speak Turkish is welcome and appreciated. The Turkish-American Association affords excellent opportunities for making Turkish friends. It is staffed by a locally-hired director and is located at No. 27, Bes Ocak Caddesi, Resat Bey Mahallesi.

Special Information

There are English-speaking Turkish doctors in the city of Adana who have had training in the U.S. or Europe, but their equipment is limited and certain medicines are sometimes not available on the local market. Necessary surgery, eye examinations, and diagnostic work should be taken care of before coming. Those planning to reside in Adana for some time should be inoculated against typhoid, polio, tetanus, cholera and diphtheria. Gamma globulin shots also should be considered. Because of the hot weather in the summer and humidity in both summer and winter, persons with arrested TB or sinus conditions should consult a doctor before coming to post. Dental care also is available from western-trained local dentists, many of whom speak excellent English.

The rapid urbanization of the area has had negative effects: noise, dirt, inadequate sewage disposal systems, and severe traffic jams. Malaria outbreaks unfortunately have become more frequent in the past several years. This is due to an increase in breeding places resulting from expanded irrigation in rural areas, poor drainage in the city itself, and the development of the anopheles mosquito resistant to conventional insecticides. Many people take malaria prophylactics. Hepatitis is endemic.

Izmir

Izmir, with an estimated metropolitan population of 2.1 million, is Turkey's third largest city and the unofficial capital of Aegean Turkey, the country's scenic and fruitful southwestern region. With a fine harbor midway down the western coast, it is Turkey's second busiest port. Its hinterland, rich in tobacco, cotton, fruits, and vegetables, makes it even more important than Istanbul as an export center. In recent years, Izmir has also become the country's second industrial area. The city boasts of being "the pearl of the Aegean." Increasing numbers of foreign tourists are finding that it is surrounded by some of the world's loveliest scenery.

Historically, Izmir was better known under the Greek form of its name, Smyrna. It has been an important center for over 3,000 years, seeing the passage of Lydians, Ionian Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Seljuks, Tartars, Crusaders, Venetians, and Ottomans. A modern Greek invading force was driven from Izmir into the sea in 1922, and the city was subsequently incorporated into the Republic of Turkey. The surrounding area abounds in relics of earlier times, especially of classical antiquity, but in Izmir itself, the only relics of earlier eras are the foundations of the earliest Greek city, a part of the Roman agora, a hilltop castle of indeterminate age, some handsome Ottoman mosques, and a few streets of rapidly disappearing 19th-century buildings.

Not only the monuments, but also the people of old Smyrna, have given way to the new. Until World War II, the population was largely non-Turkish—Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and "Leventines" (Italian, French, British, Dutch, and German nationals whose families had lived in Smyrna for generations). Today, the population is almost entirely Turkish, a large part of it first or second generation Izmirlis whose families were Turkish refugees from Greece or Bulgaria or migrants from interior Anatolia. If Izmir is still the most "Western" of Turkish cities, it is so because of its location, its wealth, and its general vitality, as well as the consequence of its history.

Izmir extends along the U-shaped head of a bay which runs east-west and is surrounded mostly by high hills. The major part of the city is on the southern shore. Closest to the center is the Konak quarter, which is both the traffic hub and the main shopping district. In appearance and atmosphere, this is the most picturesque part of Izmir; it has much of the character of an old Near Eastern marketing center.

North of this area is the quarter of Alsancak, most of which is quite modern. It is a level area with well-designed streets, modern apartment blocks, and stores and warehouses. Alsancak is the district where most Americans live and spend the greater part of their time. The U.S. Consulate is at one end of this area, and the best hotels at the other. Here also are the best apartment buildings, shops, restaurants, the fair grounds (Culture Park), the cathedral, and the offices of the Turkish-American Association.

Like most rapidly developing cities in older countries, Izmir is a city of contrasts. Beneath the attractive and almost serene skyline, seen from a distance, are all the problems of contemporary urban blight—from housing shortages to air and water pollution—much aggravated by a population that has not yet made the adaptation from rural to metropolitan living. For all its problems, however, Izmir remains a thriving, vital city. Minor frustrations in daily living abound, but the climate, scenery, history, and a friendly population more than compensate for them.

American associations with Izmir go back to the early 19th century, when American traders, shippers, missionaries, and teachers first settled in the then predominantly foreign city. Apart from the U.S. Consulate General, and a long tradition of good will, the only remainder of this earlier association is the American Girls' School, a fine secondary school for Turkish girls which is largely managed and staffed by Americans. At a later date, oriental tobacco was exported from Izmir to the U.S. in large quantities. This remains an important trade today, and every major American tobacco company has its permanent representative in Izmir.

By far the largest number of Americans to visit Izmir in recent years have been military personnel. The U.S. Air Force maintained a base at Cigli (now the site of the city's civil airport) for many years. This base was relinquished in 1970, and almost half of the American military and their dependents left. A smaller military presence remains, however.

Izmir is the site of two important NATO commands, Headquarters Landsoutheast and Headquarters Sixth Allied Tactical Air Force. Serving these commands is a U.S. Air Force logistical support organization, known as 7241 Air Base Group.

In the future, it seems likely that new Turkish-American ties in Izmir will develop through tourism and industrial investment and development. The total American population of Izmir (military and civilian) is over 2,000.

Education

Children of U.S. Government employees in Izmir attend the Department of Defense schools in Alsancak. These schools, operated by 7241 Air Base Group primarily for the American military, include an elementary section and a high school, covering grades one through 12. They offer courses and extracurricular activities normally found in public schools in the U.S. Qualified American teachers are employed. The high school is fully accredited. There are no boarding facilities.

The Izmir-Amerikan Kiz Lisesi at Goztepe (Izmir) is a girls' church-related day school, accredited by the Turkish Ministry of Education. The American/Turkish curriculum for the 1,200 enrolled students is mainly college preparatory. Classes are held in grades seven through 12. An American headmaster is the administrator. The school address is: Inonu Caddesi 476, Goztepe, Izmir, Turkey.

Recreation

Touring is the foremost attraction of a visit to Izmir. An enjoyable outing is a drive (over fairly good roads and through magnificent scenery) to one of the picturesquely located ancient city temple sites for a picnic and a few hours of walking and climbing among the ruins. Sometimes rocky climbs and overgrowth make walking difficult, but it is an activity enjoyed by young and old. In summer, it is often possible to include some swimming in such an excursion.

The roster of place names is enough to excite any amateur historian's imagination. Within an hour or so are Ephesus, Sardis, Teos, and Claros; within two to three hours are Priene, Miletus, Didymae, and Aphrodisias. Requiring overnight stays, but within easy reach, are Hierapolis (Pamukkale), Termessos, Halicarnassus (Bodrum), Antalya, Perge, Side, and Aspendos and Troy and Assos.

Acceptable tourist hotels and restaurants are found at or near most of the touring sites. Camping is also possible at many spots.

European football (soccer) is the great spectator and participant sport in Izmir. In summer, sea bathing is the most popular outdoor activity for Americans. The local season runs only from the beginning of July to the end of August, but those accustomed to cooler waters find the Aegean pleasant from the end of May through October. Pollution makes the inner Bay of Izmir unfit for bathing, but good swimming is found between 45 and 90 minutes' drive to the south, west, or north. The favored sand beaches suitable for children are at Çeşme (75 minutes west), Gumuldur (60 minutes south), and Kuşadasi (90 minutes south). Swimming is also possible along some of the rockier parts of the coast, and some areas provide good snorkeling and scuba diving.

Most resort hotels make bathing facilities available for the day at a small cost. Elsewhere, facilities are rustic and informal. A sturdy wind-proof tent is a useful item for changing, as is a large canvas beach umbrella for sunning in isolated areas. Fitted rubber or plastic bathing shoes are desirable.

The Bay of Izmir—indeed, the whole Aegean coast—is ideal for sailing. The sport is new to the area, with the result that boats are hard to find during the summer, either for sale or for rent. For those willing to rough it, small wooden coasters with minimal facilities can be rented, with crew, for cruises along the coast and to the nearby Greek islands. Favorite areas for sailors are the lower Bay of Izmir, Bodrum, and Marmaris.

Sea fishing is good, but seasonal. The Izmir area has good hunting in fall and winter. The favorite game are wild boar, partridge, duck, and woodcock. Private hunting parties are usually pleased to take along Americans. Primitive accommodations must be expected.

The Izmir Tennis Club and the Buyuk Efes Hotel Tennis Club both admit nonpermanent resident Americans for reasonable fees. Horseback riding facilities are available at the nearby suburb of Buca (nominal fees). The closest skiing area is a day's drive away at Mount Ulu Dag, near Bursa; rates are below those of European counterparts.

For those whose favorite activity is walking, Izmir is disappointing. The lack of sidewalks, constant construction, and heavy traffic make walking difficult everywhere but on a few streets (including the water-front) in Alsancak. Numerous places for hikes or strolls exist, however, within an hour's drive.

Entertainment

Entertainment in Izmir is largely an individual activity. Concerts of Western music are rare; no opera exists; and the occasional plays performed by the State Theater are in Turkish. A Little Theater group presents about five plays each season, primarily in English, but occasionally in French. The Izmir Symphony performs weekly from October to June.

All movies, even imported ones, have Turkish soundtracks. The annual Izmir Fair provides "amusement park" entertainment from August 20 to September 20. Nightclubs with floor shows are numerous, but only two or three are appropriate for foreign clientele. The 7241 Air Base Group operates a post motion picture theater with a fair selection of American films. The Turkish-American Association and the French and German cultural centers sponsor occasional classic films, concerts, recitals, and exhibits.

In the Turkish-American building, the United States Information Service (USIS) has a good reference and lending library of English-language books and periodicals. The Air Force maintains, for its personnel, a well-stocked library of English-language books and periodicals, including a special section devoted to Turkey and the Middle East.

Although English and French are spoken in Izmir, a knowledge of Turkish is almost essential for genuine intercultural exchange and for any travel outside the city. Real social contact (except at the household domestic, shopkeeper, and tourist-establishment level) may be difficult for Americans because of language barriers and cultural and economical differences. This does not mean that relations are in any way unfriendly or strained—quite the contrary—but merely that real communication is established only with the relatively thin stratum of educated and "Westernized" Turks in the city, or with other foreign residents. Acceptance is quicker, and hospitality warmer, than one could expect to find in Europe. It is often the Turk who seeks out the American, rather than vice versa. The use of even limited Turkish is an effective icebreaker, and a knowledge of French or German will open up a range of contacts.

Some opportunities exist for voluntary and charitable services.

OTHER CITIES

ANTALYA (formerly called Adalia) is the main tourist resort on the Turkish Riviera. Situated 250 miles southwest of Ankara on the Gulf of Antalya, this Mediterranean port has a population of 509,000. Besides tourism, the local economy is based on fruit and timber production. Established in the second century B.C., Antalya was the departure point for the apostle Paul on his first missionary journey. The city was a Byzantine bulwark in the Middle Ages. The old town, enclosed by fortified walls, is set on the summit of a low cliff. Travel writers presented this district with their Golden Apple award in 1985 for its successful restoration. Architectural features from the past have been retained in the midst of a busy leisure center. A hotel and several restaurants on the waterfront accommodate the tourist trade. Antalya has panoramic vistas over the Bey Mountains.

BURSA , in the northwest, is the capital of the province whose name it bears. It is a commercial and industrial center (noted especially for textiles) in an agricultural region. Its current population is approximately 1.1 million. Bursa was founded at the end of the third century by Prusius I, the king of Bithynia, and was named Prusa ad Olympium. It was captured in 1075 by the Seljuk Turks, less than 20 years later by the Crusaders and, early in the 13th century, was passed to the Byzantines. In 1326, the city was taken by the forces of Orkan I, and became the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Many baths, caravanserais, and mosques remain from that period.

ESKIŞEHIR , the capital of the eponymous province in the west-central part of the republic, lies in a rich agricultural area. It is home to a population of about 450,000. Chief among its monuments are the Ptolemaic temple in the city and, nearby, a Christian monastery dating from the 10th century.

GAZIANTEP is an ancient Hittite city in the southern province of the same name. It was the center of resistance against French occupation of the region in 1920-21 and, although taken by the French, it was soon returned to Turkey. It was for this heroic resistance that the city, formerly Aintab, was given its present name, derived from Gazi, meaning "warrior for the faith." In earlier centuries, it was a strategic place in war against the Crusaders. Gaziantep has a current population of about 702,000.

KAYSERI (also called Kaisaria), in central Turkey, is situated at the foot of Erciyas Dagi peak. As Caesarea Mazaca, it was the chief city of ancient Cappadocia. It was founded as a modern city in the fourth century, and became important as a trade center. Kayseri is a large marketplace for Turkish carpets, and now has a population estimated at 491,000. At Kanesh, in the immediate area, is an archaeological site which dates to the third millennium.

KIRIKKALE is the principal city in Kirikkale District, located 38 miles east of Ankara. The introduction of steel mills to the city in the 1950s spurred rapid growth. Today, these factories are among Turkey's largest. Chemical plants were opened here in the 1960s. Plans have been announced for the erection of an oil refinery. Kirikkale is also a local market for livestock products and cereals from the Kizil River valley area. The city has an estimated population of more than 205,000.

KONYA is a city of approximately 611,000 residents in south-central Turkey. It is an agricultural and livestock center, but is known also for the carpets and silks it produces. Konya's ancient name was Iconium. As a religious center, it was the seat of the Order of Whirling Dervishes, and the tomb of the order's leader, the mystic Celaleddin Rumi, is preserved here, as are many of the ancient city walls.

MARAŞ (also called Kahramanmaraş), located at the base of the eastern Taurus Mountains, 275 miles southeast of Ankara, has a population of over 180,000. It is a commercial and light industrial center; carpets and embroideries are among its products. The city is close to the southern opening of three principal passes through the mountains. It has always been a strategically important trade center between inner Anatolia and upper Syria. Maraş was under Muslim control from 700 to 1197, when it was captured by Crusaders. It became Turkish in the 16th century. The area is connected to the rest of Turkey by road and rail.

MERSIN , a city of close to 500,000, lies on the Mediterranean in southern Turkey. It is a seaport and rail terminus, exporting minerals and agricultural products. It is located 40 miles west-southwest of Adana. Excavations in the area have revealed the remains of a settlement which existed in 3600 B.C.

SAMSUN , the largest Turkish city on the Black Sea, has roughly 332,000 residents. It is situated 200 miles northeast of Ankara, between the mouths of the Kizil and Yeşil rivers. A major port, Samsun exports tobacco, wool, and cereals. The city also is a metropolitan hub for the outlying agricultural region. The Greeks first developed the city in the seventh century B.C., naming it Amisus. It was the most successful Milesian colony on the Black Sea, after Sinop, and thrived until the invasion and conquest of the Romans in 71 B.C. The Seljuk Turks named the city Samsun after taking it in the 12th century. The Turkish war of independence began here with the beginning of the organization of national resistance, on May 19, 1919. May 19 University, named for this date, opened here in 1975. Samsun has air, rail, and road connections to other Turkish cities.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Aside from Russia, Turkey is the largest country in Europe. Its 296,185 square miles lie between the Aegean, Black and Mediterranean Seas. It stretches about 950 miles from west to east and 400 miles north to south.

Thrace, the European portion of Turkey, ends at the Bosphorus Strait, and across it, Anatolia—and Asia—begin. Anatolia is a high plateau bounded on the north by the Pontic Mountains, the Taurus Mountains on the south, and stretching to the peak of Mount Ararat (nearly 17,000 feet) among the Caucasus Mountains in the east. Mountains ranges give way to narrow coastal plains on the northeast and south, and to treeless valleys between rolling hills and low mountains in the center.

The climate varies a great deal across Turkey. Precipitation is highest on the Black Sea where, in Rize, an average of 98 inches of rain falls each year. Ankara averages only 14 inches (chiefly accumulating from November to May) and Antalya on the south coast gets about 28 inches. Istanbul has an average of 25 inches of annual precipitation. The plateau region has hot, very dry summers where temperatures in July range from the mid-70s to the low 90s. The skies are almost always clear and cloudless during the day and nights are cool. Winters in this region are generally windy and cold (the mean temperature for January is 30°F). Around the Marmara Sea and Istanbul, the average temperature in July is 83°F and 35°F in January. The south coast has long summers that are often hot and humid both night and day in the midsummer months (average temperature in mid-August is 94°F), but very pleasant in spring and autumn. Winters in the south are usually fairly mild. The north coast Black Sea region tends to have cooler summers and warmer winters than the other coastal areas.

Turkey's variety of climates allow for the production of a large diversity of crops from subtropical bananas, figs, tobacco, cotton and citrus fruits to cereal grains on the plateau and tea on the wet Black Sea coast.

Population

According to the 1997 census, Turkey's population has reached over 62.6 million with an annual growth rate of 1.2%. If current conditions persist, the population will double in 33 years. Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara are Turkey's largest cities and incorporate nearly a third of the country's population. The growth rate of Istanbul is 5% per year and is indicative of the alarming pace of migration from village to city and from the east and southeast to southern and western cities. Cities are increasingly surrounded by squatter settlements that create great urban difficulties.

The 1923 Lausanne Treaty helped define the nature of Turkish society. It gave a special status to three religious minorities in Turkey—Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Syriac Christians, and Jews, most of whose ancestors had been accepted as refugees by the Ottoman Empire in 1492 after they were expelled from Spain. The Treaty, which Turkey still respects, defined all others in Turkey, the vast majority, simply as Muslims. It recognized neither ethnic nor sectarian divisions in this ethnically and religiously heterodox state.

Over 99% of Turks are Muslims; the vast majority are Sunni, but there is a significant population of Turkish Alevis (whose beliefs are akin to those of Shia Muslims but whose religious practices are much less rigid), and among the Sunnis, a large number are attached to mystical Sufi brotherhoods. It is noticeable, especially in the large cities, how minimally the strictures of Islam affect the lives of some Turks. Many drink alcohol, do not restrict their diets and rarely, if ever, attend prayer. In the cities, women can be seen in attire that fully covers them, head to toe, walking alongside relatively scantily clad women wearing the latest in western fashions. Inhabitants of rural areas are much more conservative. The Islamist Refah party, whose popularity has been on the rise, is challenging Ataturk's secularist ideal. The potential repercussions of this challenge are the subject of hot debate among the intelligentsia of Turkey.

Despite the official nonrecognition of ethnic identity as a legitimate organizing principle, many Turkish citizens are becoming increasingly aware of their ethnic origins. Recently, a myriad of private television and radio stations have carried vivid accounts of conflicts involving Muslims in Bosnia, Chechnya and Azerbaijan. This media coverage along with the reestablishment of ties with the Turkic peoples of the newly independent states in the Caucasus and Central Asia have contributed to the awakening in many Turks of long dormant feelings of connection to ancestral homelands.

By some estimates, the population of the Turkish Republic at its inception included people from as many as 80 different ethnic backgrounds; but as the Republic's founder Ataturk maintained, one and all are "Turks." Turkish is the only official language, but some citizens continue also to speak the language of their ethnic origin. The government long insisted on the exclusive use of Turkish as a tool to build and unite the nation. Turks of Kurdish origin constitute Turkey's largest ethnic and linguistic subgroup and number as many as twelve million. Turkey's southeastern region is majority Kurdish, though more than half of the Kurds in Turkey now live outside of this area. Since 1984, the Southeast has been an area of great unrest due to clashes between Turkish government forces and the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK), a separatist terrorist group seeking to establish an independent Kurdish state encompassing much of southeastern Turkey as well as parts of Iran, Iraq, and Syria.

History

Mustafa Kemal, a Turkish World War I hero, later known as "Ataturk" or "Father of the Turks," founded the Republic of Turkey in 1923 after the collapse of the 600-year old Ottoman Empire. At its peak, the Ottoman Empire stretched from southern Spain and Morocco in the east to Saudi Arabia and Iran in the west, and almost to Vienna in the north.

The Empire weakened over time as it failed to keep up with European social and technological developments and came under pressure from other powers. The rise of nationalism within the Empire impelled numerous groups to seek independence, leading to the Empire's fragmentation. This process culminated in the Empire's disastrous participation in World War I as a German ally.

Defeated and shorn in the postwar settlements (Treaty of Sevres) of much of its former territory, parts of modern-day Turkey were occupied by forces of the victorious European states. Turkish nationalists, who rallied under Ataturk's leadership, expelled invading Greek forces from Anatolia after a bitter war. They repudiated the Ottoman structure, and abolished the temporal and religious ruling institutions of the old Empire (the Sultanate and the Caliphate).

In its place, Ataturk established a republic with secularism, nationalism, modernization and a European orientation as its guiding principles. Social, political, linguistic, and economic reforms and attitudes introduced by Ataturk before his death in 1938 continue to have strong influence in Turkey today. The Turkish Grand National Assembly, Turkey's parliament, opened in 1920. Ataturk was its first speaker. The Turkish Republic was formally established in 1923. Ataturk announced the goals of "Peace at Home, Peace in the World," a slogan which has defined Turkish foreign policy ever since.

Turkey stayed neutral through much of World War II, entering on the Allied side shortly before the war ended. Demands by the Soviet Union for military bases in the Turkish Straits, combined with difficulties faced by Greece after World War II in quelling a Communist rebellion, prompted the U.S. to declare the Truman Doctrine in 1947. The doctrine enunciated American intentions to guarantee the security of Turkey and Greece and resulted in large-scale U.S. military and economic aid. Turkey joined the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) in 1952 after participating with United Nations forces in the Korean conflict.

Public Institutions

One-party rule under Ataturk's leadership gave way to multi-party democracy in 1950. Domestic political crises sparked military interventions in 1960, 1973, and 1980, but in each case the military returned power to civilians in a relatively short period of time. Civilian governments have ruled continuously since 1983.

The present structure of the Turkish state was established by the military-sponsored 1982 Constitution, which has been amended twice by civilian governments. There are executive and legislative branches, and an independent judiciary. There are more than 20 political parties today, 5 of which are represented in Parliament. Recent changes to the Constitution added 100 members to the previously 450-member Parliament, and lowered the minimum voting age from 20 to 18. Elections must be held at least every five years. A nonpartisan president serves one 7-year term. A constitutionally-mandated National Security Council, composed half of members of the Turkish General Staff and half of Cabinet ministers, advises the government on security issues.

Turkey remains the world's only secular democracy in a Muslim country. The government worked hard in the last year to update its commercial and economic legislation to European standards to prepare Turkey for greater integration with the European Union; a customs Union went into effect on January 1, 1996. Turkey is increasing its ties with the newly independent states of the former Soviet Union, especially those with a shared Turkic culture and history. Turkey continues to play an important role in efforts to resolve regional conflicts in Iraq, the Middle East, the Caucasus, the Balkans, and Cyprus. It has long been a NATO member, and lies astride what could become key pipeline routes to transfer oil and natural gas from the Caucasus and Central Asia to Western markets.

Arts, Science and Education

Turks maintain a high regard for the arts, both for their own traditional heritage and for creativity beyond their borders. While Istanbul is by far the more sophisticated city, Ankara enjoys an active cultural arena of its own. Ankara has eight state-owned theaters, one of which is dedicated to opera and ballet (and includes a modern dance company).

The state companies are energetic and creative given their tight budgets, and their performances are well worth the nominal fee for tickets. A number of private theaters offer other forms of entertainment. Both Ankara and Istanbul have annual performing arts festivals that host a great variety of artists, both local and from abroad. Istanbul's International Festival of Culture and the Arts brings renowned artists from across the globe to perform in its many theaters. Ankara, Istanbul and Izmir each has a symphony orchestra that gives regular concerts.

Turkish folk dancing and singing performances can be seen throughout the country. The numerous ethnicities in Turkey make for a colorful array of dances and songs. Each December brings a week-long festival in Konya where the Mevlevi order of dervishes, known as the "Whirling Dervishes," twirl in long, white robes and hats to the ethereal music of the Turkish flute.

The Ankara and Izmir Turkish-American Associations (TAAs) schedule cultural presentations by American and Turkish artists as well as lectures, tours, hobby clubs, discussion groups, and film showings. Of special interest among the activities carried on by other binational cultural centers in Ankara is the French Cine Club, which regularly screens recent French films. The British, German, and Italian cultural centers also sponsor concerts, lectures, and performances by national artists. Museums, binational centers, and galleries hold art exhibits in major cities.

Archeological excavations are underway in various parts of Turkey. Gordion (within 100 kilometers of Ankara), Sardis, and Aphrodisias are among centers of archeological work on ruins dating from Hittite through Ottoman times. Among these enticing sites are Ephesus (Efes), Bergama, and Troy in Western Turkey.

Turkey has made great strides in establishing a modern educational system since the Ottoman religious school system was abolished in the early years of the republic. Primary and secondary public education is free, coeducational, and compulsory between ages seven and 12. In the large cities, the system offers primary, secondary, and university education, but some villages still lack even a primary school. Most major cities have private secondary schools with curriculums in English, French, or German. The adult literacy rate in Turkey is about 85%.

Turkey has 54 universities and a number of technical schools. The first private university, Bilkent University, was established in 1986 using English as its medium. Both Baskent University of Ankara and Koc University in Istanbul were established in 1993 and are also in English. Admission to universities is based on competitive examinations. As in many countries, children of upper and middle-class families more frequently receive the secondary school education necessary to pass university entrance examinations.

Ankara University, Hacettepe University, Middle East Technical University (METU), Gazi University, Bilkent University, and Baskent University, all in Ankara, offer degrees in a broad range of fields including the humanities, science, engineering and, at Ankara University, agriculture. Several offer degrees in medicine.

Istanbul has seven major universities. The most prominent are Istanbul University and Istanbul Technical University, Koc University (noted above), and Bogazici (Bosphorus) University, the oldest English-medium university, established in 1971 when the former Robert College was turned over to the Turkish government. USIA recently has granted money to Bogazici to establish a J. William Fulbright Chair of American Studies. To facilitate the success of this program, Bogazici will be given an extensive American Studies library collection. Robert College continues as a separate, now secondary, institution supported by the U.S. government and private sources.

Commerce and Industry

From the establishment of the republic until the early 1980s, Turkey had an insulated, state-directed economy. The early 1980's, however, brought an economic turnaround based on increased reliance on market forces, export-led development, lower taxes, integration with the world economy, and privatization. These reforms gave Turkey the highest average annual growth rates over the past decade of any OECD country.

As the economy recorded impressive gains, however, its perennial economic problems—large public sector deficits and high inflation—continued to worsen. By 1994, Turkey was in an economic crisis: 150% inflation, high unemployment, and a 6% drop in GNP. After 13 straight years of growth, the private and public sectors put investments on hold. The government was forced to implement an economic austerity program. The resulting currency depreciation boosted exports and produced a healthy current account surplus. Turkey had no problem meeting its substantial foreign debt payments in 1994, though at the cost of a spiraling domestic debt burden.

Turkey's effort to implement structural reform measures has been only partially successful. Steps such as privatization of money-losing state enterprises, improved efficiency of tax collection, and streamlining of the social security system are necessary to alleviate pressure on the state budget and promote stable and sustainable growth.

In December 1999, Turkey received a $4 billion loan from the International Monetary Fund to begin programs for disinflation and structural reform. Inflation dropped from 69 to 39% as a result of these actions. However, delays on key structural reforms, particularly in the banking sector, eroded market confidence.

Turkey's long-term potential, however, is bright. Its dynamic private sector and the customs union with the European Union (EU) are powerful forces for growth. The fundamentals that made Turkey the fastest-growing country in the OECD during the 1980's have not changed and, in many respects, have even improved.

Agriculture accounted for 15% of GNP in 1999. Its output was essentially unchanged from 1993. Industry is responsible for about 29% of GNP while services accounted for 56% of GNP, up by over 10% since 1994.

Agriculture employs 38% of the labor force in the production of crops such as grains, cotton, hazelnuts, tobacco, fruits and vegetables. Turkey is unusual in that it is not only basically self-sufficient in food, but it is able to export as well. It is an important market for U.S. tobacco, soybeans and soybean products, rice, wood logs, cotton for quality blue denim, tallow for making soap, and breeding and feeder cattle.

The best commercial prospects for U.S. exporters and investors are in energy, telecommunications, environment, transport and textiles.

The Turkish government is encouraging foreign companies to invest in the power sector. Electrical energy demand in Turkey is also growing rapidly. The government estimates that electricity consumption was about 140 billion kw/h in 2001 and expects that usage to double by 2010. Turkey will require approximately $3-$4 billion in annual investment to increase its current installed power generation capacity of 28,000 megawatts to 80,000 MW, which the government predicts it will need by 2020.

The future is also bright for suppliers of autogeneration, transmission and distribution, and renewable energy technology.

In 1991, a Ministry of Environment was established increasing the attention paid to environmental issues. New regulations regarding sewage, medical waste and power plant emissions, among others, will add to the growth of this sector. Major projects are under development for air quality control, solid waste disposal, and municipal waste water treatment and water provision.

The textile sector is Turkey's largest manufacturing industry and its largest export sector. Sales in western Europe—its most important market—have been limited by quotas. These restrictions are to be removed under the customs union that came into effect in January, 1996. The global phaseout of textile quotas called for in the Uruguay Round also increases the potential of this sector. Projects to expand and modernize are already underway.

Other principal growth sectors are tourism, automobiles and electronics.

Transportation

Local

The cardinal rules of safety to survive Turkish driving are: drive very defensively, avoid driving at night, and never let emotions affect what you do.

Turkey's main highways are generally well-paved and properly maintained. However, there are traffic hazards such as slow moving farm equipment and animals, overloaded trucks, buses, and cars passing on hills, and vehicle repairs made on the roadway. When driving in Turkey's countryside, it is wise to expect the unexpected. The construction of new super highways on some frequently traveled routes (e.g., from Ankara to Istanbul), has improved cross-country driving considerably. Winter snows and ice require caution in city and highway driving, and even a light rain can cause surfaces to become extremely slippery. Traffic moves on the right. Turkey uses the same international system of road signs as in the rest of Europe.

City streets are crowded with all sorts of vehicles. Streets are narrow and traffic congestion is an increasing problem, especially in Istanbul and Ankara. Although traffic moves on the right, "dolmuses" (shared taxis traveling set routes), regular taxis, and often others, too, do not always observe this rule or other traffic regulations such as red lights or one-way roads. This eccentricity can be confusing and dangerous.

In the highly congested city of Istanbul, a high percentage of traffic-related deaths are pedestrians. The highest risk group for pedestrians is children and adolescents-totaling about 40%. Statistics released by the Istanbul Traffic Police, for example, indicate that evening rush hour (5-8 p.m.) is the most dangerous time on local highways. Not surprisingly, it is also the time of day when drivers are the least attentive. In 1995, Ankara and Istanbul provinces accounted for almost half of the total vehicle accidents in Turkey; Ankara 43,517, Istanbul 74,905, countrywide total 233,803. 1996 figures are even higher with 156,000 accidents in the first six months.

A number of defensive measures can and should be taken to increase the odds in your favor for accident-free driving:

Always wear seat belts.

Children should ride in the back seat with seat belts on and/or in a child safety seat.

Drive defensively, defensively, defensively.

Dusk is a particularly dangerous time on intercity highways because most drivers delay turning on their headlights until well after dark. Oncoming traffic can be very difficult to see.

Don't be afraid to use your horn to get the attention of pedestrian's and other drivers.

Use four-way flashers to warn drivers behind of slowed/blocked traffic to avoid being hit from behind.

Watch out for trucks and buses that take the right-of-way without signaling, whether they are entitled to it or not.

During rain and snowstorms, drivers must be extremely attentive and situationally aware. Accidents increase dramatically during storms and particularly at night.

Pay particular attention to all of the following which are common in Ankara, Istanbul and others parts of the country:

Passing on the right and cutting in front of other vehicles from the right side.

Unexpected stops or turns without signaling, for no apparent reason and stopping in unexpected locations to pick up or let off passengers by cars, buses and trucks, including main highway entrance ramps, intersections, and along major highways.

Pedestrians seemingly completely oblivious to oncoming traffic who continue to walk or run in front of vehicles to cross streets and main highways.

Trucks parked at night without lights on the highway rather than on the side of the road.

Disabled vehicles parked without warning signs.

Tractors, horse carts and farm vehicles traveling without lights at slow speed on highways.

In the countryside, the use of stones rather than warning signs to mark accidents, breakdowns, and road work.

Road surfaces that are much smoother and provide less traction than normal.

Vehicles backing up (in reverse) on exit ramps and on main highways.

Animals on highways. In the countryside, watch for herds of sheep, goats and other animals on roads.

Drivers that drive in the middle of the road and yield to no one.

Drivers that overtake on blind curves.

At night, cars without lights or lights missing.

Oncoming drivers who play inscrutable light games, flashing and flashing whether you have your "brights" on or not.

Tire-shredding potholes.

Tailgating drivers.

Drivers that attempt to pass while you are passing another vehicle.

Unmarked intersections (i.e., no stop signs), primary road has right of way, but proceed with caution.

Watch for temporary checkpoints and traffic stops particularly at night. These are usually set up for one of three reasons: (1) routine license and registration checks, (2) during times of high terrorist threat, to watch for certain individuals, (3) DWI checks, which are normally done late at night and on weekends in areas with restaurants and clubs. Often, vehicles with diplomatic, consular or Turkish General Staff (TGS) license plates will be waved through once the police see that a foreigner is driving. In case you are stopped, be prepared to show your Turkish identification card or passport and U.S. driver's license and vehicle registration. (Note: If you are involved in an accident—even when not found at fault—a Breathalyzer or blood test is almost always mandatory. If you are not considered responsible for the accident, positive test results will not be used against you by the police. However, they may be used by an insurance company as grounds to deny an accident claim.) The unofficial "protocol" for military and Jandarma checkpoints in the eastern provinces is to turn on the vehicle's inside lights and dim the headlights while stopping for inspection. Roll down the driver's side window in vehicles with tinted glass. This makes it easier for soldiers to safely identify and check the vehicle and its occupants. During this type of inspection, remain calm, do not make any quick movements and obey instructions.

You should always have your vehicle registration, insurance policy, and driver's license (or copies) in your car. If there is an accident, you will need all three.

Vehicle Equipment

A first-aid kit and a reflective warning triangle are mandatory in all vehicles. You may want to carry: a fire extinguisher, locking gas cap, an inexpensive camera with flash to document accidents, chalk to mark accident scenes, tow rope or cable, jumper cables, snow chains (required on some roads and bridges during storms), special reflective tape inside the trunk lid (or rear hatch) and on door jams that can be illuminated by approaching vehicles, PTT Jetons and phonecards for telephone calls, spare directional and headlamp bulbs.

Increased Driver Awareness during Ramadan

The Moslem holy month of Ramadan is celebrated in Turkey between the months of January and February. During Ramadan, many people fast between the hours of sunrise and sunset. The fast includes not taking food, water, tea/coffee, and no smoking. This temporary lack of food and stimulants while fasting during Ramadan has in the past had a deleterious effect on levels of alertness, particularly for persons driving trucks, buses, taxis and cars. Consequently, it is important for all employees and family members to be particularly aware of this potential danger and alert to other drivers. Practice defensive driving, particularly during this month of the year. The holidays or "Bayrams" that follow Ramadan result in a dramatic increase in intercity vacation traffic and the highest accident rates of the year.

Here's a taxi safety tip: Always ride in the rear of a taxi, never in the front. In the event of an accident, the risk of serious injury is generally reduced by more than 50%.

Please note that the following are English approximations of Turkish.

Important Road Signs

Dur…Stop

Tek yon… One way

Girilmez…No entry (in general)

Tasit Giremez… No vehicle entry

Giris…Entrance

Cikis…Exit

Park yapilmaz/edilmez…No parking

Parketmek yasaktir…No parking

Sehir merkezi… City center

Arac cikabilir…Vehicles exiting

Askeri bolge…Military Zone

Hastane…Hospita

Yaya gecidi…Pedestrian Crossing

Tirmanma seridi. Climbing Lane (on hills for slower vehicles)

Yol calismasi…Road work

Yol tamiri…Road repair

Yol yapimi…Road construction

Servis Yolu…Temporary road (detour)

Agir Tasitlar Sagdan gidiniz… Trucks use right lane

Dinlenme Alani…Rest area

Servis Aiani…Service area

Uzun arac… Long vehicle

Tirmanma sagdan Slower vehicles use right lane

TEM "Tem Oto Yolu"…Transit European Motorway (Turkish Interstate)

AS. iZ…Military Police (Askeri inzibat)

Key Motoring Terms

Benzin…Gas/petrol

Kursunsuz…Lead free gas

Mazot/motorin…Diesel

Tehlikeli Madde…Dangerous materials (pro-pane, gas, etc.)

Lastikci… Tire repair

Sanayi bolgesi…Repair shop zone

Otogar… Bus station

Kar…Snow

Buz…Ice

Kaza raporu…Accident Report

Kismet…Fate

Allah korusun …May God protect me (sign on many trucks)

Dikkatsiz …Careless

Duzensiz …Disorder/erratic

Cities have municipal bus systems that are cheap and extensive but do not necessarily adhere to any set schedule. Dolmuses and minibuses also run along bus routes for a slightly higher fee. Taxis are plentiful, convenient and metered. Dolmus and taxi fares are fixed.

Regional

The Turkish State Railways provides rail service to many points within Turkey and has routes connecting to Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Direct rail service is offered from major European cities to Istanbul. Railway service is usually slower than bus service, but dining and sleeping cars on domestic lines help make the trip comfortable.

Delta Airlines provides regular passenger and freight services to Istanbul. Turkish Airlines (THY) flies to many points in Turkey, Europe and the Middle East with daily flights connecting Istanbul, Ankara and Adana. The airport in Istanbul is the country's primary international airport. Antalya's airport is also a hub, especially for tourist groups in the summer. More than 20 airlines connect Turkey with all parts of the world.

Turkish Maritime Lines provides ferry service for passengers and automobiles between Europe and Asia in Istanbul (to cross the Bosphorus) and at Canakkale (to cross the Dardanelles). Turkish Maritime Lines also provides service to Adriatic, Aegean and Mediterranean Sea ports. There is a ferry that travels from Venice to Izmir.

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

The lines and service are generally very good but occasionally outages do occur in inclement weather.

Calls to the U.S. can be placed using AT&T, MCI or Sprint phone cards. Calls to the U.S. are currently about $5.00 for the first minute, $1.59 every minute thereafter using AT&T, or about $1.70 a minute if placed directly through local PTT with no initial connection charge. Call-back services are also available. Figures shown are based on weekday rates and, as in the U.S., weeknight and weekend rates are considerably cheaper. Calls to other countries besides the U.S. are cheaper using the local PTT than U.S. companies.

Radio and TV

Both privately-owned and state-owned radio and television stations broadcast in Turkey. Turkish Radio and Television (TRT, state-owned) operates four radio and five television networks. Most of the population, however, tunes into the half-dozen most popular, privately-owned television channels.

There are at least 72 FM radio stations and about 635 TV stations operating in Turkey. Eight of the TV channels are nationally-televised networks. Cable television is also available and broadcasts several foreign channels including BBC, CNN International, Eurosport, and German, Italian and French stations. Some private radio stations are owned by newspapers, some by businessmen. These stations broadcast an assortment of formats, from Turkish and western pop to classical. Voice of America and BBC radio can be heard in most of Turkey via short-and medium-wave bands. VOA Europe programs are broadcast on an FM station in Istanbul 24 hours a day.

TV channels operate on the European standard of 625 lines. Color system is PAL.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

Ankara, Istanbul and Izmir have many shops selling foreign news publications including the International Herald Tribune, Time, and Newsweek. Several general-interest U.S. magazines, as well as many British, French, German, and Italian publications are widely sold. The Turkish Daily News, weekly Probe, and weekly Briefing are published in English and are available in major Turkish cities.

Ankara has Turkish government libraries and American, British, French, German and Italian government cultural services which are open to the public. USIS in Ankara has a library as does USIS in Istanbul. Istanbul also has several foreign cultural centers.

Health and Medicine

Medical Facilities

Turkish hospitals vary greatly. The private, new hospitals in Ankara have the most modern facilities and equipment.

Community Health

Bottled spring water is available in restaurants and grocery stores. Tap water should be boiled for three minutes after filtering to remove particulate matter. Local wine, bottled soda, fruit juice and beer are considered safe to drink. Most local dairy products, including milk, yogurt, and cheese are safe to consume; however, care must be taken when purchasing perishable products from local shops as many do not have adequate refrigeration.

Locally-produced beef, lamb, and poultry can be of good quality, but should be purchased from refrigerator-equipped, sanitary shops and cooked thoroughly before eaten. In smaller towns lamb may be the only meat available. Fresh fish and seafood are available in major cities in winter but difficult to find in summer months except by the sea. Refrigerated transport of fish may be unreliable in the summer. Fresh vegetables and fruits are excellent, but should be washed thoroughly and soaked in a mixture of water and bleach prior to eating raw. Raw salads in local restaurants should be avoided.

Turkish cuisine is excellent and should be enjoyed during a tour in Turkey. In the larger cities restaurants offer both international and local specialties. New arrivals often experience mild stomach upsets before adjusting to local conditions; and even old-timers have periodic stomach problems, especially during the warmer months.

Preventive Measures

Tuberculosis does not pose a risk in Turkey, but child care providers should be screened with a chest xray before they are employed. Rabies is prevalent in Turkey and people are cautioned against handling stray animals. If bitten, a post-exposure rabies vaccination is given. Recommended immunizations for adults and children include typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A, and hepatitis B; it is advised that children have all the recommended childhood immunizations. Immunizations should be obtained prior to arrival.

Air pollution is a problem in Ankara and Istanbul, but is more pronounced in Istanbul. Ankara's air problems have decreased significantly since the introduction of natural gas; however, increased vehicular pollution and the natural bowl configuration of the city, still bring a large number of poor air quality days. Most complaints about irritating air quality in Ankara regard the burning of trash within residential areas and the constantly dry, dusty environment.

Istanbul has a more serious air pollution problem that is the worst in winter. The pollution can constitute a health hazard, especially to children, smokers, and those with chronic respiratory disorders. Sulfur dioxide levels often far exceed healthy limits established by the World Health Organization.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

A passport and visa are required. Holders of all types of passports can purchase a 90-day sticker visa at the port of entry for $45, if they are traveling to Turkey as tourists. For further information, travelers in the U.S. may contact the Embassy of the Republic of Turkey at 2525 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone: (202) 612-6700, or the Turkish consulates general in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, or New York. Information may also be found at Internet address http://www.turkey.org. Overseas, travelers may contact a Turkish embassy or consulate. Holders of official and diplomatic passports on official business must obtain a visa from a Turkish embassy or consulate before arrival in Turkey. Holders of official and diplomatic passports on private travel may receive a visa free of charge from a Turkish embassy or consulate, or obtain one upon arrival at the port of entry for $45. All those who are planning to stay more than three months for any purpose are required to obtain a visa from a Turkish embassy or consulate. Such travelers must also apply for a residence/work permit or Turkish ID card within the first month of their arrival in Turkey. For example, this would include anyone who plans to spend more than three months doing research, studying, or working in Turkey.

All travelers are advised to obtain entry stamps at the first port of entry on the passport page containing their visa before transferring to domestic flights. Failure to obtain entry stamps at the port of entry has occasionally resulted in serious difficulties for travelers when they attempt to depart the country.

The PKK retains a residual presence in certain parts of southeastern Turkey. The following provinces are under a state of emergency: Hakkari, Sirnak, Tunceli, and Diyarbakir. The following additional areas are considered "sensitive areas" or one level below state-of-emergency status: Van, Siirt, Mus, Mardin, Batman, Bingol, and Bitlis. The southeast provinces of Adana, Adiyaman, Antakya (Hatay), Elazig, Gaziantep, Kahraman Maras, Kilis, Malatya, Icel, Osmaniye and Sanliufra are not under a heightened state of alert. Mount Ararat is a special military zone and access permission must be obtained from the Turkish Government.

Visitors to the emergency and sensitive areas of southeastern Turkey are advised to travel only during daylight hours and on major highways. The Turkish Jandarma and police forces monitor checkpoints on roads throughout the southeastern region. Drivers and all passengers in the vehicle should be prepared to provide identification if stopped at a checkpoint. Travelers are cautioned not to accept letters, parcels, or other items from strangers for delivery either in or outside of Turkey. The PKK has attempted to use foreigners to deliver messages and packages in or outside of Turkey. If discovered, individuals could be arrested for aiding and abetting the PKK-a serious charge.

Turkey customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Turkey of items such as antiquities (very broadly defined) or other important artwork and cultural artifacts. At the time of departure, travelers who purchase such items may be asked to present a receipt from the seller as well as the official museum export certificate required by law. Smuggling of large quantities of other items, such as cigarettes, out of Turkey is also a punishable offense. Contact the Embassy of Turkey in Washington or one of Turkey's consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Americans living in or visiting Turkey are encouraged to register at the nearest Consular Office, at the U.S. Embassy in Ankara, the U.S. consulates in Istanbul or Adana, or the Consular Agency in Izmir. Updated information on travel and security within Turkey is available while registering, or on the Embassy website at http://www.usemb-ankara.org.tr.

The U.S. Embassy in Ankara is at 110 Ataturk Boulevard, tel: (90)(312) 455-5555, fax (90)(312) 468-6131. Visa information is available at (90)(312) 468-6110. The Internet address is http://www.usemb-ankara.org.tr. Non-emergency e-mail messages about consular matters may be sent to caankara@state.gov.

The U.S. Consulate in Istanbul is at 104-108 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi, tel: (90)(212) 251-3602, fax (90)(212) 252-7851. Istanbul-specific information can also be accessed via the Consulate's website http://www.usconsulate-istanbul.org.tr. Non-emergency e-mail messages about consular matters may be sent to ca_istanbul@state.gov.

The U.S. Consulate in Adana is at the corner of Vali Yolu and Ataturk Caddesi, tel: (90)(322) 459-1551, fax (90)(322) 457-6591.

The U.S. Consular Agent in Izmir is at Kazim Dirik Caddesi 13/8, Atabay Is Merkezi, Daire 805, Pasa-port, Izmir, 35210, tel: (90)(232) 441-0072/2203, fax (90)(232) 441-2373. A variety of information on visa procedures, American citizen services, road safety, etc. is also available on the mission's web site, http://www.usemb-ankara.org.tr.

Social Customs & Laws

Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the United States for similar offenses. Persons violating Turkey's laws, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Turkey are strict and convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Below are some of the laws foreign travelers should be aware of:

Insulting the State: It is illegal to show disrespect to the name or image of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the modern Turkish Republic, or to insult the Turkish government, flag, or security forces.

Proselytizing: Although there is no specific law against proselytizing, some activities can lead to arrest under laws that regulate expression, educational institutions, and religious meetings. The Department of State's Annual Report on International Religious Freedom contains additional information on religious freedom in Turkey. The report is available on the Department's website, http://www.state.gov.

Cultural Artifacts: Turkish law has a broad definition of "antiquities" and makes it a crime to remove any from the country. Offenders are prosecuted. Under Turkish law, all historic sites such as fortresses, castles and ruins, and everything in them or on the grounds or in the water, are the property of the Turkish government. While many sites do not have signs cautioning the unwary, official silence does not mean official consent. One may buy certain antiquities, but only from authorized dealers who have been issued a certificate by a museum for each item which they are authorized to sell. If one has acquired a possible antiquity without having obtained the necessary certificate, competent museum personnel should evaluate it before its removal from Turkey.

Pets

Pets may be brought into Turkey without quarantine provided they have certificates showing inoculation against rabies within the past six months, and freedom of communicable disease within 48 hours of the time of departure for Turkey. These documents should be prepared by a veterinarian, notarized by a notary public in the country in which the veterinarian is authorized to practice, and authenticated at a Turkish embassy or consulate.

Some people have found it difficult to keep dogs as pets in Ankara and Istanbul. Apartment living presents obvious difficulties, and it is unwise to allow a dog to run free in the streets. The city authorities periodically round up, poison or shoot stray animals, sometimes including licensed animals running free at the time.

Disaster Preparedness

Several major earthquake fault lines cross Turkey. A number of Turkish cities including Istanbul, Izmir, and Erzincan lie on or near fault lines, making these areas particularly vulnerable to earthquakes. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Management Agency (FEMA) at http://www.fema.gov. Detailed information on Turkey's earthquake fault lines is available from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) at http://www.usgs.gov.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Local banks offer checking and savings accounts and exchange facilities, but they are not often used by American's because of the complexity of local banking laws Travelers checks are acceptable in Turkey and in all nearby countries but sometimes difficult to cash. Turkish lira (TRL), the official unit of currency, is used for purchasing goods and services on the Turkish economy.

Transfer of Turkish lira from one part of Turkey to another is easily done using Turkish postal money orders. Most banks also are able to transfer funds electronically.

The rate of exchange for the Turkish lira has fluctuated greatly throughout the past several years; during the past year the rate of inflation has been around 90%. The exchange rate is approximately 1,391,946.77 TRL to US$1.

Turkey uses the metric system.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Turkey observes both civil and religious holidays. While dates for civil holidays are determined by the Gregorian calendar, religious holidays are set by the Muslim/lunar calendar, resulting in observance on different days each year.

Jan. 1…New Year's Day

Apr. 23… National Sovereignty and Children's Day (Milli Egemenlik ve Cocuk Bayrami)

May 19…Ataturk Memorial Youth and Sports Day (Ataturk'u Anma Genclik ve Spor Bayrami)

Aug. 30…Victory Day (Zafer Bayrami)

Oct. 29… Anniversary of the Founding of the Turkish Republic (Cumhuriyet Bayrami)

… Ramazan Bayrami (Ramadan begins)^*

… Kurban Bayrami (Ramadan ends)^*

^*variable

RECOMMENDED READING

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country. The Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

History/Foreign Policy/Travel Akurgal, Ekrem. Ancient Civilizations and Ruins of Turkey. 1985.

Alexandris, Alexis. The Greek Minority of Istanbul and Greek-Turkish Relations, 1918-1974. Athens: Center for Asia Minor Studies, 1983.

And, Metin. A History of Theatre and Popular Entertainment in Turkey. Ankara: Forum Yayinlari, 1964.

Bahceli, Tozun. Greek-Turkish Relations Since 1955. Boulder: West-view Press, 1990.

Bean, George E. Aegean Turkey. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989.

——. Lycian Turkey. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989.

——. Turkey Beyond the Meander. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989.

——. Turkey's Southern Shore. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989.

Berlitz. The Berlitz Travellers Guide to Turkey. 1993.

Blake, Everett C. and Anna G. Edmonds. Biblical Sites in Turkey, 4th ed. Istanbul: Redhouse Press, 1990.

Brosnahan, Tom. Turkey, A Travel Survival Kit, 3rd ed. 1990.

Bugra, Ayse. State and Business in Modern Turkey. Albany: State University of New York, 1994.

Constas, Dimitri, ed. The Greek-Turkish Conflict in the 1990s: Domestic and External Influences. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1991.

Dindi, Hasan, et al. Turkish Culture for Americans. Boulder, CO: International Concepts, Ltd.

Erim, Kenan. Aphrodisias, The City of Venus Aphrodite. 1986.

Freely, John. The Companion Guide to Turkey. London: Collins, 1979.

Fodor's Turkey. New York: David McKay, latest edition.

Fuller, Graham E. and Ian O. Lesser, eds. Turkey's New Geopolitics: From the Balkans to Western China. Boulder: Westview Press, 1993.

Gunter, Michael M. The Kurds in Turkey: A Political Dilemma. Boulder: Westview Press, 1990.

Heper, Metin and Jacob M. Landau, eds. Political Parties and Democracy in Turkey. New York: I.G. Tauris & Co., 1991.

Hershlag, Z.Y. The Contemporary Turkish Economy. New York: Routledge, 1988.

Inalcik, Halil. The Ottoman Empire. 1973.

Itzkowitz, Norman. The Ottoman Empire and Islamic Tradition. 1973.

Kinross, Lord. Ataturk: A Biography of Mustafa Kemal, Father of Modern Turkey. London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1965.

Kinross, Lord. The Ottoman Centuries: The Rise and Fall of the Turkish Empire. New York: Morrow Quill Paperbacks, 1979.

Kostof, Spiro. Caves of God: Cappadocia and Its Churches. New York: Oxford University Press, 1989.

Kuniholm, Bruce. The Origins of the Cold War in the Near East. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1980.

Landau, Jacob M. Ataturk and the Modernization of Turkey. Boulder: Westview Press, 1984.

Lawlor, Eric. Looking for Osman. New York: Vintage Departures, 1993.

Lewis, Bernard. The Emergence of Modern Turkey. London: Oxford University Press, 1961.

Lloyd, Seton. Ancient Turkey: A Traveller's History of Anatolia. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.

McCarthy, Justin. Muslims and Minorities, The Population of Ottoman Anatolia and the End of the Empire. 1983.

McDonogh, Bernard. Blue Guide Turkey, The Aegean and Mediterranean Coasts. 1990.

Morris, Roderick Conway. Jem: Memoirs of an Ottoman Secret Agent. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1988.

Nagel's Encyclopedia Guide: Turkey. Lincolnwood, IL: NTC Publishing Group, 1987.

Olson, Robert. The Emergence of Kurdish Nationalism and the Sheikh Said Rebellion, 1880-1925. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1989.

Orga, Irfan. Portrait of a Turkish Family. New York: Macmillan, 1957.

Renda, Gunsel, and C. Max Korte-peter, eds. The Transformation of Turkish Culture. Princeton: Kingston Press, 1986.

Robins, Philip. Turkey and the Middle East. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1991.

Rustow, Dankwart A. Turkey's Forgotten Ally. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1987.

Settle, Mary Lee. Turkish Reflections, A Biography of a Place. New York: Prentice Hall, 1991.

Stark, Freya. Ionia, A Quest, 1954; The Lycian Shore, 1956; Alexander's Path from Caria to Cilicia, 1958; and, Gateways and Caravans: A Portrait of Turkey, 1971.

Stearns, Monteagle. Entangled Allies: U.S. Policy Toward Greece, Turkey and Cyprus. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1992.

Stirling, Paul. Turkish Village. London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1965.

Sumner-Boyd, Hilary and John Freely. Strolling Through Istanbul, 4th ed. Istanbul: Redhouse Press, 1989.

Turkey 1992 Traveller's Guide. New York: Berlitz, 1992.

Young, George. Constantinople. New York: Barnes & Noble Books, 1992.

Art/Literature/Fiction

Acar, Belkis Balpinar. Kilim, Cicim, Zili, Sumak: Turkish Flatweaves. 1983.

Atil, Esin. The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1987.

Freely, Maureen. Life of the Party. 1984. fiction

Kemal, Yasar. trans., Edouard Roditi. Mehmet My Hawk. New York: Pantheon, 1961. fiction

Kuran, Aptullah. Sinan, The Grand Old Master of Ottoman Architecture. 1987.

Macaulay, Rose. The Towers of Trebizond. 1956. fiction

Menemencioglu, Numan. Penguin Book of Turkish Verse. London: Penguin Books, 1978.

Rogers, J.M., ed. The Topkapi Saray Museum: Carpets ; and, The Topkapi Saray Museum: The Treasury. Boston: Little, Brown and Co., 1987.

Settle, Mary Lee. Blood Tie. 1977. fiction