Laos

LAOS

Lao People's Democratic Republic

Major City:
Vientiane

Other Cities:
Luang Prabang, Paksé

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated April 1994. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

Although LAOS has been known as the Lao People's Democratic Republic only since December 1975, recent archaeological discoveries in Southeast Asia have provoked increased interest and reassessment of the nation and its place in Asian history. The ancient culture that flourished along the upper Mekong River had made basic advances in agriculture, pottery, metallurgy, and the polishing of stone tools made by 3,000 B.C. These people also spread their culture north into China and south-eastward into Indonesia, the Philippines, and even to Australia. The numerically dominant Lao people began entering present-day Laos before A.D. 1,000 from southern China. This migration accelerated after the Mongol destruction of their kingdom of Yunnan in 1253.

Today, Laos is a nation of pronounced ethnic, linguistic, and geographical diversity. Because it is strategically located, it receives an abundance of interest and a large amount of assistance from other nations. One of the world's poorest countries, Laos faces daunting tasks in every field of economic development.

MAJOR CITY

Vientiane

Vientiane is the political, administrative, and commercial center of Laos. The capital of Laos, it is the largest city in the country, with a population of 534,000 (2000 est.). The name is a French version of the Lao Vieng Chan, or "City of Sandal-wood." It was once the ancient capital of the rich and powerful kingdom of Muong Lan Xang Hom Khao, the "Land of the Million Elephants and the White Parasol."

Vientiane is a provincial town in appearance and atmosphere. It is situated on the left bank of the Mekong River, at the edge of a large plain which extends some 40 miles north of the city. To the north and east, the foothills visible from Vientiane are the rugged uplands of the Annamite cordillera, which cover most of the country.

Utilities

Short power failures occur almost daily because the lines are old and poorly maintained. Voltage fluctuates at times and sensitive electronic equipment is subject to damage. Voltage regulators are not available locally. Minor repairs to stereo equipment and small appliances can be done. More complicated repairs must be done in Bangkok.

Food

The local markets offer a large variety of fruit, vegetables, rice, eggs, poultry, pork, fresh fish, and beef. Fruits and vegetables vary with the season; adequate quantities of good quality are available year round. Chicken and pork are fine; beef is tasty but tough. Because local selection is limited, some Westerners shop in Bangkok to supplement their food supply.

Clothing

Dress in Vientiane is generally casual because of the tropical climate. Cottons or cotton blends are worn year round; nylon and other pure synthetics are uncomfortable during the hot season. From November to February, when the temperature averages 60°F, spring or fall clothing is appropriate.

The climate and an active social life define wardrobe requirements. Clothing wears out quickly because of more changes during the day and frequent laundering. Tailors and dressmakers of limited capability are available, and clothing needs can be made to order in Vientiane or Bangkok. A variety of materials can be purchased locally.

Raincoats, umbrellas, and rubber boots are needed for the rainy season. Special attire should be brought from home for active sports. Sweaters and jackets are useful in cool weather.

American men in Laos find that suits (including safari styles) are needed only for official functions, and these should be lightweight and washable. Men wear short-sleeved shirts and washable slacks for business, leisure, and most social functions. For the rare occasion when formal attire may be needed, a tuxedo or white dinner jacket and black slacks will suffice at any time of the year.

Women's wardrobes should include washable dresses of cotton blends, or lightweight knits, for office work or for social events. Cottons are most suitable for casual wear, but any cool, washable fabric that does not cling will be comfortable. Shorts are useful at home and for sports, but are not worn on the street. Pantsuits are acceptable in offices and, in appropriate styles and fabrics, may be worn for all but formal occasions. Lightweight wools and synthetics are suitable in the brief cool season.

During the cooler months, the usual dress for parties is a long-sleeved blouse and long skirt, long dress, or pantsuit. Hats and gloves are not worn.

Supplies & Services

Laundry is done in the home. No bona fide dry cleaning exists in Vientiane; Americans living in the city take their better clothing to first-class Bangkok hotels for cleaning, which is very expensive.

A few beauty shops in Vientiane offer haircuts, permanents, and manicures. Hair coloring can be applied, but it is recommended that coloring kits be brought to the country with you. Even Bangkok beauty shops have limited hair coloring supplies. Several barbershops are located in the downtown area, and their services are reasonably priced; often, however, resident Americans have their hair cut during trips to Bangkok.

Shoes can be repaired locally, usually with satisfactory results.

Several men's tailor shops make suits, slacks, and shirts to order, with acceptable results. Prices are reasonable, but material must be supplied by the customer. Most American women in Vientiane use dressmaker services in Vientiane and Bangkok; prices and results vary. In general, custom-made clothes are reasonable, but not up to the highest U.S. standards.

Religious Activities

Currently, no formally organized English-or French-language Protestant or Jewish religious services are held in the country. Protestant clergymen occasionally visit Vientiane to conduct services; the city has three small Lao Protestant churches. Mass is celebrated daily in Lao, French, and English at the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Vientiane.

Domestic Help

Domestics are readily available in Vientiane. The hot climate, lack of centralized shipping facilities, and the language barrier make it necessary to hire domestic help.

The number of employees employed depends on preference and life-style (also on the size of living quarters). Most Americans living in Laos find that a combination maid/cook adequately satisfies requirements for shopping, food preparation, entertaining, house cleaning, and laundry. Most residences have quarters for at least one domestic; however, few if any live in. They use the quarters during the day for eating, bathing, and rest periods. Salaries are negotiated between employer and employee, but are quite reasonable by American standards.

The majority of domestics have little command of English, and misunderstandings are frequent. Patience is required.

Prospective domestics should have physical examinations before starting work and periodically thereafter. Exams can be taken at one of the local hospitals for a small fee. Be sure your employees seek medical attention when needed. Many of the employees in Vientiane have been employed in American households for some time and are well versed in health and food requirements. Nevertheless, their activities should be routinely monitored to ensure compliance.

Education

The Vientiane International School is registered with the Lao Ministry of Education and is a member of the International School System. The school curriculum and schedule are patterned on the U.S. system, but with an international flavor. Children from all nationalities are represented, with the Americans and Australians predominating. Instruction is in English; French and Lao are also taught. Classes are from grades pre-K through eight.

The principal and all teaching staff are accredited.

There is also a French school which goes to grade twelve.

Recreation

Facilities exist for golf, tennis, squash, volleyball, swimming, and badminton.

Bicycling is a popular and pleasurable pastime, particularly during cooler weather. Vientiane is flat and easy to get around in by bicycle. Bicycle rallies are occasionally organized and are very popular.

Of particular interest to visitors are the That Luang Monument and the Sisaket and Phra Keo Temples. The National Museum provides interesting insights into recent Lao history. On weekends, many Lao and foreigners make picnic excursions to the Nam Ngum dam or to one of several waterfalls within a few hours of town.

Laos has many natural and historical attractions that can be visited with tours sponsored by local travel agencies. Among the most important tourist destinations are Luang Prabang, the old royal capital, with its many beautiful temples; Xieng Khouang, site of the Plain of Jars; Pakse, famous for its handwoven silks and cottons and for the beautiful Khmer ruins at Wat Phu; Saravane, known for the Bolevans Plateau and its natural surroundings; and Savannakhet, a gateway to the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Vientiane is served by Lao Aviation, Thai Airways, Air Vietnam, and Aeroflot. Less than two hours away by air, Bangkok is readily accessible for shopping, sight-seeing and vacationing.

Bangkok is a major air stop for connections to other cities in Southeast Asia, and to world capitals. From there, direct flights are available to Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), Yangon (Myanmar), Singapore, Manila (Philippines), Hong Kong, Australia, and Europe. Thailand has many popular resorts: the beaches of Phuket and Koh Samui are world famous; and Chiang Mai, Sukothai, and Lopburi are famous for historical monuments.

Pattaya is a popular beach resort two hours' drive south of Bangkok on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand. Accommodations are available at hotels or private cottages. Boats can be rented for trips to the islands off the coast. Beach resorts are located at Bang Saen on the east coast, and at Hua Hin on the western shore, where there is a good golf course.

No definite restrictions are placed on photography in Laos with the exception of the Wattay Airport and on military installations, where no photos are allowed. Courtesy and discretion should be exercised at all times in photographing people, particularly uniformed security guards or policemen and in taking pictures of any government building or installation. Children welcome having their photograph taken and often follow Westerners around when they observe them taking pictures.

Entertainment

American films are shown weekly at the American Embassy compound, while French films and duplicate bridge nights are organized by the Alliance Francaise. The American and Australian Embassies maintain small libraries. A wide selection of books, including best-sellers, is available in Bangkok.

A limited number of restaurants in Vientiane serve Western, Chinese, French, Vietnamese, and other cuisines.

A few discos have opened and are frequented by both Lao and Westerners.

Many of the Lao festivals, known as bouns, celebrate seasonal changes and important dates in the life of Buddha. The Lao New Year, known as Pi Mai, lasts for three days and is celebrated in April. It is the most festive and widely celebrated holiday. The annual long boat races on the Mekong River between Vientiane and Nong Khai, Thailand are well worth seeing. Permission is required, but Americans have been invited to attend in recent years with few problems.

The baci ceremony is one of prayers and good wishes. It is uniquely Lao, and is celebrated elsewhere only in northeast Thailand. It can be performed on various occasions, such as Lao New Year, a wedding, farewell, welcome, or the birth of a child. The baci ceremony follows a precise pattern, and is conducted by an elderly man (mohpohn ) who is highly respected for his wisdom and ceremonial skill. Shoes are removed and the participants sit on the floor during the ceremony. Of brief duration, usually less than an half hour, it is normally followed by a traditional Lao meal and dancing. It has no Buddhist significance, but derives from native animist beliefs pre-dating the arrival of Buddhism centuries ago. Photography is permitted at a baci.

Entertainment in Vientiane depends largely on individual tastes, initiative, and ingenuity. Home entertaining among foreign residents is extensive; dinners, cocktail parties, and barbecues are the usual forms of social activity. The Western community in the capital is small, and people socialize regularly with members of the diplomatic and private communities. It should be noted, however, that home entertainment by the Lao is rare.

OTHER CITIES

The port city of LUANG PRABANG lies on the Mekong River, 130 miles northwest of Vientiane. For over two centuries, beginning in 1353, this was the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom. The city acquired the name Luang Prabang about 1563, and became the capital of a new kingdom in 1707. Over 20 Buddhist pagodas stand in what had long been the nation's religious center—the Phu Si pagoda allegedly enshrines Buddha's footprint. Luang Prabang is a small, backward community where goldsmithing, lacquering, and silversmithing has flourished. The population is over 46,000.

PAKSÉ (also spelled Pakxe) is a distribution center for the southern panhandle of Laos, located at the convergence of the Xédôn and Mekong rivers. Industry here includes sawmills, brick and tile manufacture, and an ice plant. Electricity arrived in the district only in 1970, when the Selabam Dam was completed. Irrigation of the region was another benefit from the dam. Paksé, until 1966 Laos' main port of entry, has road connections to the Thailand and Cambodia borders. The population of Paksé is over 50,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

The Lao People's Democratic Republic, a landlocked nation, shares a common frontier with five countries: Burma to the northwest; China to the north; Vietnam to the east; Cambodia to the south; and Thailand to the west.

The total land area covers about 91,425 square miles, and is approximately the size of Oregon. Close to six percent of the country's surface, particularly in the north and east, is covered with dense jungle or rugged mountains; mountainous topography is characteristic of all of Laos outside of the Mekong River Basin. Some mountains rise over 7,000 feet; the highest point in the country is 9,249 feet above sea level. Except in limited areas, soil is poor; most of the forested area is not exploitable.

Vientiane, the capital, is also the largest city. Other population centers are, like Vientiane, on or near the banks of the Mekong River.

They are: Luang Prabang, the former royal capital, and the towns of Ban Houei Sai; Savannakhet; Paksé; Sayaboury; and Thakhek.

The Mekong River, with its headwaters in Tibet, flows more than 2,600 miles to its mouth in southern Vietnam. One of the world's great rivers, it forms the country's western boundary for the greater part of its length and is the cradle of Lao culture. The only significant population center in Laos far removed from the Mekong is Vieng Say in Sam Neua Province; it is a new town, established by the Lao People's Revolutionary Party during its struggle with the former Royal Government of Laos. The Lao government has been encouraging the establishment of other new towns and villages in the country's interior.

Laos has a monsoon climate with three overlapping seasons. The rainy season extends for five months, from June through September. In October, the rains start to taper off and the cool season begins in November, and lasts through February. March, April, and May are hot and humid. In April, the hottest month, temperatures in Vientiane normally range between 72°F and 93°F, and in January, the coolest month, between 57°F and 83 ° F. However, temperature extremes of 103°F (April) and 39°F (January) have been recorded. Vientiane's climate is more varied, drier and cooler than that found in Singapore; Jakarta; Indonesia; or Bangkok, Thailand.

Dust, during the dry period, and mud in the wet season, are common but tolerable obstacles. It is not unusual for the Mekong River to overflow its banks in late August and early September. With the construction of dikes, however, the incidence of flooding in Vientiane has decreased.

Tropical flowers flourish in the Laos climate, as well as a wide and fascinating variety of insects and reptiles. The most common pests are mosquitoes, ants, and termites.

Population

Laos has the smallest population of any Southeast Asian country except Brunei. The population, composed of many ethnic groups, is estimated at 5.6 million (2001 est.). This sparse population is spread out unevenly; the greatest concentration is in the Mekong Valley, especially in the Vientiane Plain and the Savannakhet Basin. Eighty-five percent of the population lives in the countryside. Laos has an extraordinary ethnic diversity. About 68% of the population is composed of ethnic Lao (known as Lao Loum ), a people of Thai stock who are believed to have migrated originally from southwestern China during the 13th century, in the wake of the onslaught of Kublai Khan's forces. The Lao Loum dominate the country politically, culturally, and economically.

The rest of the Lao population is divided into a welter of ethnic groups, some sizable, some tiny. These groups include mountain tribes of Thai stock found in northern Laos, the Hmong (Meo) tribes-men of Tibet-Burman origin, and a number of other mountain tribes of Malayo-Polynesian background who inhabit the hills of central and southern Laos. Although no one is quite sure of the exact number of tribes or ethnic groups, the government estimates 68 different groups.

Vietnamese and Chinese represent less than one percent of the population (most left the country after 1975). There are also small groups of Thai, Cambodians, Indians, and Pakistanis. The ethnic Lao and the population of northeast Thailand share the same language, and historically have had a close social and commercial relationship. Many people in Laos have relatives in northeast Thailand and, in numerous cases, a claim to Thai citizenship. There is also a small European community in Vientiane, most of whom are from the Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.) and Eastern Europe. However, there are increasing numbers of Australians, Swedes, Japanese, French, and North Americans working for UN agencies. Improved relations with the West and a growth in foreign investment should contribute to an increase in the number of Westerners living in Laos.

History

Laos was first united in 1353 by Fa Ngum, a Lao prince. He brought the scattered Lao princedoms together to form the Kingdom of Lan Xang (Kingdom of a Million Elephants). The Lan Xang covered much of present-day Thailand as well as Laos. Fa Ngum also established Buddhism as the state religion. Dynastic struggles and conflicts with neighboring kingdoms precipitated a decline of power that began in the 16th century and by the 18th century the Siamese and Vietnamese kingdoms were competing for control of Laos.

For much of the 19th century, the country was under Thai suzerainty and was split into three parts: Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champassak. In 1893, France established a protectorate over Laos, but in the process, a large area of what had been Lan Xang, on the west bank of the Mekong River, became part of Thailand. The Franco-Siamese treaty of 1907 defined the present Lao boundary with Thailand.

Under pressure from Japanese occupation forces during World War II, King Sisavang Vong of Luang Prabang declared his independence from France and in September 1945 a new Kingdom of Laos was formed along with the principalities of Vientiane and Champassak. French troops reoccupied the area but in August 1946 recognized Lao autonomy. In 1949, France formally recognized the independence of Laos within the French Union and Laos remained under French rule until 1953 when the country was granted full independence.

From 1945 to 1975, Laos was involved in the bloody conflict that raged throughout Indochina. In 1972, the Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP) was proclaimed by Lao Communists. A cease-fire was signed in February 1973 and a coalition was set up in April 1974. The Pathet Lao, sparked by communist victories in Indochina in 1975, steadily assumed complete control.

On December 2, 1975, a group led by the Lao People's Revolutionary Party abolished the Kingdom of Laos and established the Lao People's Democratic Republic.

Government

Laos is a communist country. Power is monopolized by the Marxist-Leninist Lao People's Revolutionary Party, the only legally recognized party in the country. The party is small in number, estimated at about 40,000 members and compared to other Communist parties, highly secretive. Party and state are intermingled in Laos; members of the party politburo hold the important government positions.

In 1991, the National Assembly adopted the first constitution to be effective in the country since 1975. The new constitution describes the governing authorities of the country, which include the National Assembly, which is elected by the Lao citizenry; the President of the Republic, who is elected and subject to removal by the National Assembly; and the executive government, headed by the Prime Minister, who is appointed and subject to removal by the President with National Assembly approval.

Since the 1970s, Laos has maintained a close relationship with Vietnam, Cambodia, and the former Soviet bloc countries; while at the same time remaining hostile to the West. However, beginning in the late 1980s, Laos has sought to improve its relations with other countries; economic issues have been the impetus for this dramatic change in policy.

The flag of the Lao People's Democratic Republic is blue, with two horizontal red stripes at the top and bottom; a large white circle is centered.

Arts, Science, Education

Probably the best known form of Lao art is the architecture, ornamentation, and sculpture of the Buddhist pagodas, called wats in Lao. Often, an incident from Buddha's life is portrayed. Bas-relief sculpture in wood, finished in gold leaf against a red background, decorate the door panels, archways, and gable ends of the structures.

The architecture of Lao homes reflects the country's pastoral and agrarian traditions. Houses raised on stilts permit livestock to shelter beneath them, and the height allows the occupants to catch the evening breezes and to avoid floods in the rainy season.

Handwoven fabrics and fine embroidery appear in both modern and traditional dress. Appliqué, handloomed fabric, and embroidery characterize the dress of the ethnic minorities.

Lao authorities are attempting to encourage traditional musical forms. These include both the lamvong, or circle dance, and other dances performed by fine arts groups at festivals and ceremonies.

The Lao Government has reorganized the country's educational system. Schooling is compulsory for five years. Primary school begins for children aged six years, followed by three years of secondary school, with an additional three years of high school.

In the past, most secondary education was in French. The government has emphasized that instruction at all levels will be in Lao. Laos has teacher-training institutes and medical schools.

The predominant religion of Laos is Theravada Buddhism. To the Lao, Buddhism is not only a religion—it is a way of life. The mountain tribes-men are principally animists, but some of them have adopted Buddhism, while at the same time retaining many of their old beliefs. The two forms of worship coexist easily. It is not unusual to see spirit shrines alongside Buddhist temples.

Lao, the national language, belongs to the Thai linguistic family. It is a difficult tongue, and has six tones. Diverse dialects are spoken in different regions of the country. Like most languages of Southeast Asia, Lao has adopted many words of Indian origin into its vocabulary. About 80 minority languages are spoken in Laos, primarily by tribal groups living outside the Mekong Valley. French, formerly the language of government and higher education, is slowly losing its importance. However, many government officials still speak French. Increasingly, English is gaining favor as a common language; Russian is also spoken by a number of Lao.

Commerce and Industry

Over 80% of the population earns its income from agriculture, mostly subsistence farming. Rice, corn, coffee, cotton, and tobacco are grown here. Barter is the principal method of exchange in the countryside; the money economy is limited mainly to cities and towns and along major transportation routes. In most areas, poor transportation facilities and other factors limit production levels to meeting the country's own needs, although the economy produces a small surplus of some agricultural, forest, and mineral commodities for export.

The industrial base is quite limited. Industrial plants include a small foundry; saw mills; rice mills; plywood, furniture, match, and cigarette factories; and other small-scale local enterprises. Cottage industries range from the weaving of silk and cotton textiles to shoe making, clothing, and metal-work. Handicraft production includes pottery, jewelry, silver working, and basketry.

Laos imports most of its manufactured products. Government approval is needed to use foreign exchange for imports, but an active free market exists. With the introduction of the New Economic Management Mechanism in 1985, major economic reforms have been enacted: government regulations have been relaxed, free market prices are allowed, farmers may own land, state firms now exercise greater control in authority but have lost their subsidies and pricing advantages, and trade restrictions have been lifted. Consumer goods, mostly from Thailand, are now available in the more populated areas of the country. As a land-locked country, Laos has been primarily dependent on the cooperation of Thailand to facilitate the transshipment of imported and exported goods. The Lao Government is now trying to develop, with Vietnamese assistance, alternate transit routes to Vietnamese seaports.

Major exports include timber and forestry products, tin, coffee, and hydroelectric power which is sold to Thailand. Foreign investment in Laos remains low, although the government actively encourages it and has increased ties to the West.

Laos is one of the poorest countries in the world due to its over-dependence on agriculture and its lack of a skilled labor force. Both of these factors present significant problems for the future.

Laos has relied heavily on foreign assistance from the former Soviet bloc nations, which has decreased in recent years. Improved relations with the West is now a priority in order to offset the loss of aid from those countries. Projects financed by Western foreign aid include: expansion of hydroelectric power generation facilities; building of roads, bridges, and port facilities; and the improvement of communications. Most Western assistance has been concentrated on infrastructure and agricultural development projects.

A number of business concerns, mostly Thai but including some from the U.S., Japan, and Europe, have invested in manufacturing, mineral extraction, and service industries. As the government refines its economic reforms and improves banking and communication procedures, foreign investment will increase.

The Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry can be reached at P.O. Box 1163, Vientiane, Laos.

Transportation

Vientiane is served by five international airlines: Thai Airways, Air Vietnam, Lao Aviation, and Aeroflot (C.I.S.), and China Southern. Bangkok is the nearest city served by an American carrier, and many people make onward connections from there.

Foreigners may enter and leave the country by air at Vientiane's Wattay Airport, by ferry at Thadeau's ferry crossing, or at Thanaleng shipping port.

Laos is landlocked, mountainous, and sparsely populated—factors which have hindered the development of its transportation system. The country has no railroads, and roads are mostly unpaved and poorly maintained. Public transportation in Vientiane is poor and unreliable. Taxis are available, but meters and fixed rates do not exist. Taxis fares generally depend on the passenger's ability to bargain, and on the distance traveled. Drivers speak little or no English. They pick up as many passengers as the vehicle will hold, although it is possible to engage a taxi privately for a higher fare. Many taxis are old and poorly maintained, and drivers may be reckless.

Several bus routes in the city, and for intracity travel, are available. Samlors (tricycle rickshaws) can be engaged for rides within the city limits. Recently motorcycle driven rickshaws (tuk-tuks ), imported from Thailand, have appeared on the streets of Vientiane. Samlor or tuktuk fares are bargained.

Traffic is light and undisciplined. Ill-trained drivers operate poorly maintained vehicles on crowded, potholed streets. While in theory traffic moves on the right, pedestrians and bicycles use all parts of the streets, so most cars do the same. Animals roam the street as well, including cows, goats, all fowl, as well as cats and dogs. Cyclists pay little or no heed to cars and bicycles are rarely equipped with functioning lights or reflectors. Driving is particularly dangerous at dusk and at night.

Defensive driving is necessary. Helmets should be worn when riding motorcycles, and gloves and sturdy shoes are strongly recommended.

Seasons of rain and dust cause roads to deteriorate rapidly, consequently placing stress on cars. Vientiane has limited facilities for maintenance and body work. Spare parts for foreign-made cars can generally be obtained from Bangkok, but parts for American-manufactured vehicles are normally ordered from the U.S. Permission is usually granted to drive cars to Bangkok or Udorndhani (Thailand) for repairs.

The Lao Government requires proof-of-ownership documents before it will register a vehicle. There is no registration fee for those on the diplomatic list, but other foreigners are required to purchase tax stickers, license plates, and registration cards. The cost of the tax sticker varies with the size and make of the car. Unleaded fuel is not available.

All persons operating motor vehicles in Laos must have valid Lao licenses. U.S. or international permits must be surrendered at the time of application, but will be returned upon departure from the country. The U.S. Embassy in Vientiane suggests that all Americans coming to Laos obtain international permits so that they will not have to give up their U.S. licenses.

Communications

Overseas telephone service is available on a 24-hour basis through the local Posts, Telephone, and Telegraph (PTT) facility, but is not reliable. Calls to the U.S. are frequently inaudible, if one is able to get through at all. The PTT telegraph facility is slow and expensive. A three-minute call to the U.S. costs about $15. Calls must be "booked" in advance and there may be a two to three hour wait for your call to be completed.

International mail service is not considered completely dependable. Registered mail service is not available. Transit time to and from the U.S. is approximately two weeks.

Several radio stations broadcast on medium wave (AM) in Vientiane. The most important of these is the Lao National Radio. Most broadcasts are in Lao, but government news is given in English, French, and other languages.

Television is available in Vientiane via satellite from the former Soviet Union. Two TV channels can be received from Thailand. None broadcast in English.

Shortwave programs are received from Voice of America (VOA), British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC), and American Forces Radio and Television Service (AFRTS); other foreign broadcasts can be picked up on shortwave receivers.

Two daily Lao-language papers are published in the capital—Vientiane Mai and Pasason. Khao San Pathet Lao, the official government news agency, prints daily bulletins in English and French.

Arrangements may be made for personal subscriptions to newspapers and periodicals. English-language books are not available for purchase locally, but can be bought in Bangkok.

Health

Medical and dental facilities and the availability of medicines in Vientiane are extremely limited. It is imperative that all possible medical and dental care be completed before entering Laos. The official U.S. community has consultation access to the regional medical officer in Bangkok, who visits Laos on occasion. Bring or arrange to have sent any special medications required; also bring a supply of non-prescription health aids, such as aspirin, cold and allergy medications, antiseptic solutions, and Band-aids.

Community health services, including basic programs such as sanitary waste disposal, are inadequate by U.S. standards. Most houses occupied by Americans use septic tanks. The long rainy season and high water table cause frequent malfunction of these and other waste-disposal systems. Neither the municipal water supply in Vientiane nor water from wells is potable without filtration and boiling.

Raw fruits or vegetables which are peeled before they are eaten require only simple cleaning. Fruits eaten whole should be washed and soaked in a germicidal solution. Locally bought leafy vegetables, such as lettuce and watercress, cannot be made completely safe for raw consumption. Eating in a few local restaurants is relatively safe if one is careful to select well-cooked foods and bottled beverages.

Tuberculosis, hepatitis, rabies, and many tropical parasitic diseases are endemic here. Malaria and other mosquito-borne viral diseases do not currently constitute a hazard, but dengue fever occurs sporadically.

Immunizations for visitors to Laos are a source of medical controversy. Some doctors advocate immunization for a wide variety of diseases. It is recommended that visitors consult with their physicians. Consider shots against the following: hepatitis-B, encephalitis, and possibly typhoid. No cholera inoculations are necessary and unless you travel outside the city of Vientiane anti-malaria medicines are not needed. Children should have the normal variety of immunizations, including the three-shot rabies preventives series and a tetanus booster. With added awareness, and with prompt attention to small problems before they become serious, health difficulties can be prevented or significantly minimized during a stay in Laos.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1… New Year's Day

Jan. … Bun Pha Wet^*

Jan. 20… Army Day

Feb. … Magha Puja^*

Feb. … Tet^*

Mar. … Boun Khoun Khao (Harvest Festival)^*

Apr. … Boun Pimai (Laotian New Year)^*

Apr. … Pi Mai (Lunar New Year)^*

May … Visakha Bu-saa (Buddha's Birthday)^*

May … Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Fesitval)^*

May 1… Labor Day

June 1 … Children's Day

June/July… Khao Phansaa (Buddhist Lent)^*

July 19… Independence Day

Aug. … Haw Khao Padap Din (Remembrance of the Dead)^*

Sept… Boun Ok Phansaa (Buddhist Lent ends)^*

Oct. … Bun Nam (Water Festival)^*

Nov. … That Luang Festival (Full Moon Festival)^*

Dec. 2… Lao National Day

^*variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

Flights connect Vientiane to Bangkok, Yangon, Hanoi, and Moscow. Bangkok is the nearest city served by a U.S. airline. Almost all travelers must arrive in Vientiane by air.

A passport and visa are required. Visas are issued upon arrival in Laos to foreign tourists and business persons with two passport size photographs and $30 at Wattay Airport, Vientiane; Friendship Bridge, Vientiane; and Luang Prabang Airport. Visas on Arrival are not available at the Chong Mek border crossing. Foreign tourists are generally admitted to Laos for 15 days with a Visa on Arrival or for 30 days with a visa issued at a Lao embassy. The Department of Immigration in Vientiane will only extend tourist visas for one day. It is sometimes possible to get an extension for an additional 15 days by submitting an application through a tour agency. Foreigners who overstay in Laos risk arrest, and they will be fined $5 for each day upon departure.

Foreign tourists planning on entering Laos at any international checkpoint where Visas on Arrival are not available must obtain a visa in advance. In the United States, visas and further information about Lao entry requirements can be obtained directly from the Embassy of the Lao People's Democratic Republic, 2222 S St. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, tel. 202-332-6416, fax 202-332-4923, Internet home page: http://www.laoembassy.com.

U.S. citizens should not attempt to enter Laos without valid travel documents or outside official ports of entry. Unscrupulous travel agents have sold U.S.-citizen travelers false Lao visas which have resulted in those travelers being denied entry into Laos. Persons attempting to enter Laos outside official ports of entry risk arrest or more serious consequences.

Immigration offices at some of the less used border-crossing points are not well marked. Travelers should make sure that they complete immigration and customs formalities when they enter Laos. Travelers who enter Laos without completing these formalities may be subject to fine, detention, imprisonment, and/or deportation.

Customs officials may inspect baggage by nondiplomatic visitors upon either arrival or departure or both, but it is usually just a cursory inspection.

According to the Lao Tourist Police, all foreign tourists are required to use the services of a licensed Lao tour company--unassisted tourism is not permitted. However, this regulation does not appear to be strictly enforced.

Foreign tourists have been informed by the Lao Tourist Police that any group of more than five foreign tourists must be accompanied by a licensed Lao tour guide. Violation of this regulation can result in detention, deportation, and fines of $200 to $2000.

Ministry of Trade and Tourism regulations prohibit any person who is not a licensed Lao tour guide from performing the functions of a tour guide--including explaining Lao culture and custom to foreign tourists. Lao and Thai nationals accompanying American friends to Lao tourist sites have been detained and fined by Lao Tourist Police who suspected that they were acting as unauthorized tour guides.

Lao citizens who wish to have a foreign citizen--including a family member--stay in their home must obtain prior approval from the village chief. The foreigner may be held responsible if the Lao host has not secured prior permission for the visit. American citizens are strongly advised to ensure that such permission has been sought and granted before accepting offers to stay in Lao homes.

Lao authorities require that hotels and guesthouses furnish information about the identities and activities of their foreign guests. Lao who interact with foreigners may be compelled to report on those interactions to the Lao Government. Persons traveling outside of the main tourist areas may be required to register with local authorities and may be questioned by security personnel.

Lao security personnel may place foreign visitors under surveillance. Hotel rooms, telephone conversations, fax transmissions, and e-mail communications may be monitored, and personal possessions in hotel rooms may be searched.

U.S. citizens living in or visiting Laos are encouraged to register at the U.S. Embassy where they may obtain updated information on travel and security within the country. The U.S. Embassy is located at Thanon Bartholonie (near Tat Dam), in Vientiane; from the United States, mail can be addressed to U.S. Embassy Vientiane, Box V, APO AP 96546; telephone (856-21) 212-581, 212-582, 212-585; duty officer's emergency cellular telephone (856-20) 502-016; Consular Section fax number (856-21) 251-624; Embassy-wide fax number (856-21) 512-584; Internet home page: http://usembassy.state.gov/ laos/.

Pets

Pets brought into Laos must be accompanied by certificates of good health and have had anti-rabies vaccinations. Upon arrival, contact with local animals should be kept to a minimum. Veterinary services are poor, with few vaccines or medications available. Proof that an animal was imported must be shown before officials will allow it to leave the country. It is recommended that pets be carried on board the plane as carry-on baggage, if possible.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

The time in Laos is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus seven.

The official Lao currency is the kip. The kip is neither a recognized international monetary unit, nor is it exchangeable outside Laos. Its use within Laos is also limited, since most transactions in which foreigners participate are in dollars or in Thai baht, both of which are freely exchangeable throughout Laos. Kip is usually used for small purchases at the market.

There are no automatic teller machines in Laos. Credit cards are accepted only at some major hotels and tourist-oriented businesses. Credit card cash advances can be obtained at some banks in Vientiane. Although it is illegal to do so, the U.S. dollar and Thai baht are both widely used for larger transactions. U.S. dollars are required by the Lao Government for the payment of some taxes and fees, including visa fees and the airport departure tax.

Weights and measures in Laos are based on the metric system, except for gold and silver, which are measured in baht (15 grams) or taels (30 to 35 grams).

Special Circumstances

The Lao Government prohibits sexual contact between foreign citizens and Lao nationals except when the two parties have been married in accordance with Lao Family Law. Any foreigner who enters into a sexual relationship with a Lao national may be interrogated, detained, arrested, or jailed. Lao police have confiscated passports and imposed fines of up to $5000 on foreigners who enter into disapproved sexual relationships. The Lao party to the relationship may also be jailed without trial. Foreigners are not permitted to invite Lao nationals of the opposite sex to their hotel rooms; police may raid hotel rooms without notice or consent.

Foreign citizens intending to marry a Lao national are required by Lao law to obtain prior permission from the Lao government. The formal application process can take as long as a year. American citizens may obtain information about these requirements from the U.S. Embassy in Vientiane. The Lao Government will not issue a marriage certificate unless the correct procedures are followed. Any attempt to circumvent Lao regulations governing the marriage of Lao citizens to foreigners may result in arrest, imprisonment, a fine of $500-$5000, and deportation. Foreigners who cohabit with or enter into a close relationship with Lao nationals may be accused by Lao authorities of entering an illegal marriage and be subject to the same penalties.

Foreign citizens who wish to become engaged to a Lao national are required to obtain prior permission of the chief of the village where the Lao national resides. Failure to obtain prior permission can result in a fine of $500-$5000. Lao police frequently impose large fines on foreign citizens a few days after they hold an engagement ceremony with a Lao citizen based on the suspicion that the couple probably subsequently had sexual relations out of wedlock.

Religious proselytizing or distributing religious material is strictly prohibited. Foreigners caught distributing religious material may be arrested or deported. The Government of Laos restricts the import of religious texts and artifacts. While Lao law allows freedom of religion, the government registers and controls all associations, including religious groups. Meetings, even in private homes, must be registered and those held outside established locations may be broken up and the participants arrested.

Taking photographs of anything that could be perceived as being of military or security interest--including bridges, airfields, military installations, government buildings or government vehicles, may result in problems with authorities, including detention or arrest and confiscation of the camera. Tourists should be cautious when traveling near military bases and strictly observe signs delineating the military base areas. Military personnel have detained and questioned foreigners who innocently passed by unmarked military facilities.

RECOMMENDED READING

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Adams, Nina S. Laos: War and Revolution. New York: Harper and Row, 1970.

Brown, Macalister, and Joseph H. Zasloff. Apprentice Revolutionaries: The Communist Movement in Laos, 1930-1985. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 1986.

Coedes, George. The Making of Southeast Asia. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1983.

Dommen, Arthur J. Conflict in Laos. New York: Praeger, 1971.

——. Laos, Key to Indochina. Boulder, CO: Westview, 1985.

Doolittle, Jerome. The Bombing Officer. New York: Dutton, 1969.

Fall, Bernard B. Anatomy of a Crisis. New York: Doubleday, 1969.

Gunn, Geoffrey C. Political Struggles in Laos (1930-1954). Bangkok: Editions Duang Kamol, 1988.

Karnow, Stanley. Vietnam. New York: Penguin, 1984.

Larteguy, Jean. The Bronze Drums. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1967.

Osborne, Milton. Southeast Asia: An Introduction History. 5th ed. Boston, MA: Allen & Unwin, 1990.

Pratt, John Clark. Laotian Fragments. New York: Avon, 1974.

Stanton, Shelby L. The Rise and Fall of an American Army. New York: Dell, 1985.

Stuart-Fox, Martin. Laos: Politics, Economics, and Society. Boulder, CO: Lynne Rienner Publishers, 1986.

Yost, Charles W. The Conduct and Misconduct of Foreign Affairs: Reflections on U.S. Foreign Policy. New York: Random House, 1972.