Morocco

MOROCCO

Kingdom of Morocco

Major Cities:
Rabat, Casablanca, Tangier, Marrakech, Fez, Meknès, Oujda

Other Cities:
Agadir, Ceuta, El Jadida, Kenitra, Safi, Tétouan

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Morocco. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

Morocco has been called "a cold country with a hot sun." The mild, semitropical climate on the northern and western coastal areas is separated by mountain ranges from a desert climate to the east and south. Most people live west of the mountain chains which protect them from the Sahara Desert. In the harsher south the population is sparse, concentrated in scattered oases along the Draa and Souss Rivers.

Africa's closest approach to Europe, Morocco lies some 20 miles away across the Strait of Gibraltar. Twice, it was the stage for invasions of Europe-the Moorish assault on Spain in the eighth century and the Allied assault on the continent in World War II. Today, jet airliners fly over plodding camel trains and farmers tilling with implements unchanged since Romans occupied and governed the land. Cities offer traditional medinas with narrow, cobblestone streets; the neighborhood mosques with their distinctive minarets; as well as modern skyscrapers, shopping malls and tree-lined boulevards. Morocco's industrious people produce not only some of the world's most ingenious handicrafts—from handwoven woolen carpets to ornate metalwork, from leathercraft to inlaid wooden objects, from hand-painted ceramics to gold and silver jewelry—they also are heavily involved in intensive agriculture and harvesting fish and other seafood from its offshore waters. Morocco's trees produce olives and cork. The country's largest export, however, is phosphates from the world's largest known deposit of this resource.

MAJOR CITIES

Rabat

Rabat, on the Atlantic coast of northern Africa, is about 280 feet above sea level. It rests on a bluff overlooking a small river, the Bou Regreg. Sale, its sister city, lies opposite Rabat on the north side of the river. Rabat is located 172 miles south of Tangier, the gateway to Europe, and 60 miles north of Casablanca, the country's largest city, principal seaport, and industrial center. Rabat has two main seasons—short, rainy winter and a long, dry summer—separated by brief transitional seasons. Temperatures range from an average minimum of 46°F in January to an average maximum of 81.5°F in August. Annual rainfall averages 21 inches. Rabat's climate is more moderate than that of Washington, D.C.

Rabat reflects the diversity of cultures that characterizes Morocco. All corners of the country are represented in its population which, including Sale, stretching from Tangier to the Sahara Desert. Contrasts of Arabic and Western (especially French) culture are sharply reflected in the Moroccan capital. European-style villas, shops, apartments, and tree-lined boulevards extend over much of the city. On the avenues of the new section of the city, the latest fashions parade beside flowing robes, hoods, and veils of the Islamic tradition. The historic core of the city is its walled "medina" (old city), whose narrow, bustling cobblestone streets have changed little over the past century. Forests, beaches, mountain resorts, and legendary medieval cities with rich historical cultures, such as Fez and Marrakech, are all within easy distance of Rabat.

Many Rabatis speak Arabic and French well, and some are fluent in Spanish or other Western languages. For the leisure-time student of languages or cultural patterns, many opportunities for study exist. Learning French is worth the investment. The English-speaking community and facilities are simply too limited to be relied on for entertainment and recreational purposes.

Food

Nearly all fresh vegetables and fruits found in the U.S. are available in season in Rabat local markets. Moroccan shops sell imported canned goods at higher than U.S. prices. Domestic and imported goods such as dairy products, flour, rice, couscous olives and spices can be found in local supermarkets and markets. Local bakeries make excellent breads, pastries, cakes an other sweets. A wide variety of fresh fish is sold daily in the fish markets. Good quality beef, veal, chicken, rabbit and pork are available. Moroccan lamb, particularly is of excellent quality.

Some families occasionally drive to Ceuta or Melilla, the two Spanish enclaves on the northern coast, for shopping at several well-stocked supermarkets which carry a large selection of Spanish and other European products. As these territories offer duty-free prices, good values can be found there. Gasoline is approximately 2/3 the cost in Morocco, for example. Moreover, Spanish specialty items such as wines, fruit juices, cheeses, ham and pork products, certain vegetables unavailable in Morocco, and other items make the trip worthwhile. Ceuta is approximately 3-1/2 hour's drive from Rabat, or 1-1/2 hour's drive from Tangier.

Clothing

The type of clothing worn in Rabat and Casablanca is as in Washington, D.C. The Moroccan public dress mores are much closer to European than to Middle Eastern customs but females dress more conservatively in public places. A "cold country with a hot sun," Moroccan temperatures drop sharply at night, both during summer and winter. Summer days are cooler than in Washington, D.C. Clothing can be ordered from the U.S. without difficulty from catalogs. Local tailors have been used with varying results, and varying prices. Some Mission staffers have located dressmakers which they recommend, individuals who can work with or without patterns. It is recommended, however, that dress fabrics be brought with you, since good locally available fabrics are imported and are either expensive or not to American tastes. Some residents have located suitable clothes and fabrics during visits to Europe.

American women, and families with teen-age daughters, should be aware that Morocco is an Islamic country where the position of women in society is very different from that in the U.S. In Morocco, women appearing in public outside the confines of the home must expect that they will attract attention of the country's males. Moroccan females learn to deal with this early in life and dress accordingly, in many cases by using the djellaba with its long sleeves and robe extending to the ankles. Moroccan women also arrange, whenever possible, to walk the city's streets accompanied by a friend rather than alone. They also learn to develop a thick skin to ignore the unsolicited male comments and suggestions that are inevitable in public.

Expatriate females who reside in Morocco, the young and even not-so-young, often are singled out even more for this uninvited attention. Comments or approaches usually are made in French. In the majority of cases, there is no danger or evil intent, but foreign women residing in Morocco often are made uncomfortable by this behavior. In recognizing this simple fact of life, American women choose their clothes with a view to avoiding any apparel which might seem potentially provocative or enticing. But regardless of choice of clothing, harassment of foreign females generally is unavoidable in Morocco. American female residents should do their best to ignore public comments and avoid reacting in any way.

Men: Prices of men's clothes are higher locally than in the U.S. and there is not as much variety. Generally, it is recommended that clothing and shoes be acquired in the U.S. prior to arrival; ordering from a catalogue can fill needs as they arise.

It is recommended that men purchase a belt designed to carry money and passport which fits out of sight under the shirt or pants. These belts safeguard valuables during the inevitable visits to medinas and souks where crowded conditions favor the activities of pickpockets and petty thieves.

Women: In the evenings, women need a light wrap such as a woolen shawl or sweater, as Moroccan houses tend to remain chilly during winter months. Bring a good supply of sweaters, warm slippers, and bathrobes for the entire family. Long-sleeved dresses are also useful. Many women wear wool afternoon and cocktail dresses during winter. Bring a lightweight wool coat, a raincoat (with detachable liner), and umbrellas. Morocco produces many qualities of women's shoes, but styles and sizes may not fit American tastes. Imported shoes available on the local market are expensive. Women need cocktail, dinner, and evening apparel. Halter-type, sleeveless, or decollete women's fashions are no longer a curiosity (when worn indoors, not on public streets). Ready-made clothing (including children's clothes), women's lingerie, and many accessories can be bought locally. Selection is limited to European styles and prices are high by U.S. standards.

Children: Good quality American-style children's clothing is expensive if purchased locally.

Supplies and Services

Local pharmacies and stores stock a large assortment of locally produced and imported drugs and cosmetics at higher than U.S. prices.

Many hairdressers and barbershops in Rabat offer satisfactory service at prices lower than in the U.S. Manicure, pedicure and masseuse services are available at reasonable prices. Shoe repair is competent and cheap by U.S. standards. Drycleaning service is uneven; avoid purchasing items which must be drycleaned in favor or wash-and-wear fabrics. Repairs for French, Italian, Japanese, and German cars are more satisfactory, and cheaper than for American cars due to spare parts availability.

Domestic Help

Individual requirements vary depending on representational responsibilities, family size and ages of children. Another variable is whether staff are expected to live in, or work only during the day and commute from home. Not all people seeking employment as household staff speak French, and with the exception of the few who have worked for U.S. families before, few know English. Wages for household staff vary according to responsibilities and hours worked during the week. In 1999, a couple or small family hiring a cook/housekeeper could expect to pay DH 500-600 per 5-day work week, with overtime paid for duties after normal hours. Some single personnel hire maid service for 1 or 2 days per week.

Most residences with yards require at least part-time gardeners to assure the plants and lawn are well tended. Such part time help is easily obtainable. A gardener was earning DH 80-100 per day in 1999. Some families able to offer live-in facilities hire a man to be a combination gardener and night watchman. The employer is expected to furnish food and uniforms for household help. As the employer is legally liable for medical bills incurred by employees due to accidents sustained on the job or going to and from work, it is recommended that liability insurance be purchased to cover such contingencies. The rate for this type of policy averages 1.5%-2% of the employee's annual wage.

Religious Activities

Religious services in Rabat are regularly celebrated at Protestant, Catholic, Greek Orthodox, and Jewish places of worship, as well as at the numerous Moslem mosques which dot the city. With the exception of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, entry to Moroccan mosques is prohibited to non-Moslems, but such visitors are welcome to stroll around outside these often ornate and beautiful structures to admire their architecture. Catholic services in local churches are held in French and Spanish, Protestant services in French and English. Jewish services are in Hebrew. In addition, an English-language nondenominational Protestant service is conducted each Sunday. The English-speaking Protestant community also conducts a Sunday school for children. An English-speaking Catholic priest hears confessions occasionally and says Mass in English every other Sunday. Catechism classes are conducted for elementary school students 1 hour a week.

Education

The Rabat American School Association operates the Rabat American School (RAS), a nonprofit organization, which is accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools and has received permission to offer the International Baccalaureate curriculum in grades 10-12. Located on an attractive campus covering several acres in the Agdal district and surrounded by a high wall, the school consists of several classroom blocks, administrative offices, science labs, a computer science center, an auditorium, cafeteria, athletic field, gymnasium, gymnastics room, locker rooms and swimming pool. RAS offers classes from nursery through grade 12.

For nursery school, a child must be 3 years of age by September 31 and toilet trained. Rabat also has an English language, parent-run, parent-sponsored nursery coop for 3 and 4-year olds, as well as a number of French language nursery schools.

The RAS curriculum for kindergarten through grade 12 is that of a quality, private school offering university preparatory coursework. Kindergarten, for example, is an academic program covering the full day where children are taught to read. French-language instruction is provided for each student; Arabic language is optional for other than Moroccan students for whom it is compulsory. Spanish also is offered as a foreign language.

Throughout the curriculum there is emphasis placed on learning about the geography, history, culture, religion and accomplishments of the host country. This is presented through special school programs, community service, athletic events and field trips to a variety of sites in Morocco.

Computer instruction is mandatory from grades 1-12. Four separate computer labs are available, the school has its own leased line and every student has access to e-mail. The school has a 14,000-volume library. Transportation by school vehicles is provided to and from school. In 1998, enrollment averaged 450 students, with an average class size of 16. American enrollment averaged 27%, Moroccan enrollment 32%, and 45 other nationalities made up the balance. The faculty of full and part time teachers consisted during the 97-98 school year of 26 U.S. citizens, 3 host country nationals and 26 individuals of other nationalities. Parent-teacher conferences are held regularly, and quarterly progress reports are issued for students above nursery through grade 12.

After school athletic activities, scouting, and other extracurricular offerings such as aerobics, Taekwan-do, ballet, choir, drama, computer club, or arts & crafts are available, with late bus transportation provided. The school sponsors boy's and girl's basketball, soccer, volleyball, track and swim teams.

The school year begins the last week in August and ends in mid-June. The secondary education curriculum is based on the rigorous International Baccalaureate program, with heavy emphasis on mathematics, science and English. Students transferring into RAS, particularly at the secondary level, may find the adjustment difficult unless they have a solid grounding in academic subjects previously. The school will test such prospective students for placement and make recommendations if there are any deficiencies which need to be addressed.

In recent years, graduates of RAS have gained admission to superior North American universities such as Dartmouth, Yale, Harvard, Princeton, M.I.T., Duke and McGill (Canada). For further information, see the Department of Overseas Schools Summary School Information.

The French Cultural Mission operates a number of schools in Rabat at the elementary and secondary levels. Lycee Descartes, a large (3,500 students) coeducational institution, partly housed in a modern building and in several annexes throughout the city, has a solid reputation. Instruction is of high quality but all in French. English is taught as a foreign language. Admission requirements are fluency in French and/or having been enrolled previously in a French language school.

Special Educational Opportunities

Various cultural missions also offer language training, including the French Cultural Mission. All courses are offered at a moderate cost.

Sports

Spectator sports include soccer and polo. Morocco's principal cities host soccer games almost every weekend. Those who play golf or tennis will find courses and courts in cities and towns throughout the country, and Morocco's pleasant climate allows play virtually the year around. In Rabat, many golfers avail themselves of the Royal Golf Dar-es-Salaam complex, with two 18-hole courses and one 9-hole course. Greens fees are DH 400 for 9 or 18 holes; caddy fees are DH 70 for 18 holes and DH 40 for 9 holes. You may rent golf carts for DH 300. Admission costs DH 400 (deducted from greens fees when playing golf). The golf club hosts a yearly Pro-Am golf tournament in the fall to which many professionals and ranking amateurs are invited. Royal Golf Dar-es-Salaam also offers tennis, a heated, Olympic-sized swimming pool, sauna bath, pro-shop, and clubhouse. Yearly membership costs DH 9,700 (single) or DH 12,000 (couple) for the first year; then DH 8,100 (single) and DH 10,400 (couple) a year; a child's membership costs DH 1,900 annually. Club members are exempt from entrance or golf fees. Daily nonmember fees for golf are DH 400. Mission personnel may pay for 6 months at a time.

One popular private club, the Riad Club, offers tennis, swimming, a playground for children, and a clubhouse with bar and restaurant. Rabat's yacht club offers an Olympic-sized pool, restaurant, bar, bath-houses, and tennis courts. Membership in the latter club is limited and mostly French, however, The Hilton Hotel offers memberships enabling families to use facilities which include: two swimming pools (one for children, one for adults), four clay tennis courts, a golf practice range, and an exercise room. Monthly dues, however, are steep at DH 1,500 for singles, DH 2,000 for couples, and DH 4,000 for family memberships.

Most of the Atlantic coast beaches have rough surf and strong, often dangerous currents. Moreover, in recent years water samples taken from beach areas near Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier indicate unsafe pollution levels. During hot summer weekends, hordes of local residents flock to the beaches such as Temara, just south of Rabat, or Plage des Nations, a lovely beach just north of Sale. But regretfully, Moroccans have yet to recognize the need to protect their beautiful beach areas by not littering them with plastic bags and other cast-offs from their picnicking. Except in rare instances, trash receptacles are not to be found. Expatriate residents soon learn that driving a few extra miles to Skhirat, Bouznika or Mohammedia, all less populated areas located between Rabat and Casablanca, is worth the effort to enjoy a day at the beach. Other excellent beaches are available up and down the Atlantic coast or north to the shores of the Mediterranean.

Morocco is one of the few countries on the African continent which offers skiing during the winter months. Depending upon snowfall, the ski season may begin as early as December and run through the end of March. Closest to Rabat near Ifrane, approximately 3 hour's drive, are the ski areas of Michliffen and Djebel Hebri at an altitude of 6,500 feet. Michliffen is located on the slope of a mountain. Djebel Hebri includes a steep hill about 10 minutes beyond Michliffen. The Poma lift (300 yards) and baby Poma lift charges are very reasonable by U.S. standards. Djebel Hebri also has an easy hill for learning. Sleds may be rented and a snack bar is available.

The other area offering skiing is Oukaimeden, which is a 90-minute drive from Marrakech, and is reputed to have the best skiing in Morocco. Its facilities include a chair lift to 10,637 feet and intermediate and beginner slopes with T-Bars and Poma lifts. Ski equipment may be rented near the slopes, though quality of such equipment may not be up to U.S. standards.

Several private clubs and the Royal Golf Dar-es-Salaam offer private and group instruction in horseback riding at considerably less cost than in the U.S. Trout fishing can be found in many lakes and streams, but the nearest spot is about 60 miles from Rabat. A reservoir 15 miles from Rabat has provided some excellent fishing for large-mouth bass. (Fishing licenses are required for all inland fishing.) Fishermen also may try their luck at deep sea fishing or surf casting from the beach at many spots along the Atlantic or Mediterranean coasts; no license is required for ocean fishing. The reservoir mentioned above also attracts windsurfers. Devotees of this sport also will wish to visit Essaouira, five hours' drive south of Rabat, whose nearly constant onshore wind provides ideal conditions for windsurfing.

Hunters will find ample opportunity to hunt for game such as duck, partridge, quail, goose and dove. Hunts for wild boar, deer, and mountain goats can be arranged. Hunting licenses are required for all types of hunting. All shotguns must be registered. (See Firearms and Ammunition).

In recent years, a number of local tour companies have begun to offer group activities such as mountain bike tours, whitewater rafting in the Atlas Mountains, mountain climbing, hiking, and camel trekking in desert areas.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Rabat has a number of interesting cultural and historical sites which attract tourists from around the world. The Chellah, a former Roman settlement, stands on a bluff overlooking the Bou Regreg River below, and marks the site of the first population center in the Rabat-Sale area. There are traces that the Phoenicians may have settled this site as early as the 8th century B.C. Remains of the Roman forum can still be seen. Out towards the mouth of the Bou Regreg River where it meets the Atlantic stands a tiny fortress and what remains of the Kasbah of the Oudaia, founded around A.D.788. Its principal gateway, the Bab el Kasbah, is the most beautiful surviving in the Moorish world, and within its walls is a perfect Andalusian garden. The site houses a museum of Moroccan clothing, jewelry, and furniture, and an open-air tea room overlooking the river.

The Mausoleum and Mosque of Mohammed V provide a modern contrast to the columns of the uncompleted minaret of the Tour Hassan. The latter was begun in the 12th century by the Almohad ruler, Yacoub El Mansour. The Archeological Museum contains fascinating objects from prehistoric and Roman times. The medina (old city) itself is worth several hours, poking around the many shops selling everything from leather items from Fez, bronze chandeliers from Marrakech, or Berber jewelry from the south.

Within a day's drive of Rabat, you can wander through the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilis, or visit the casino and beaches of Moham-media. A scenic drive into the foothills of the Atlas, lunch at Rommani, or a picnic in the Mamora cork forest along the Meknes road are pleasant diversions. Fez, about 110 miles from Rabat, offers a labyrinthine "souk," where metalworkers and pottery makers turn out handicrafts the same way that they have been doing it for five centuries. This famous city also is the site of the Karaouyine University and Mosque, the latter originally founded in the 9th Century.

Visit Casablanca, a 1-hour drive, to take in the splendor of the Hassan II Mosque with the tallest minaretin the world; to sample the big city's Parisian boutiques, Italian, Lebanese, and other European grocery stores and patisseries; or to patronize one of the excellent seafood restaurants along the Corniche (seafront). View the Swiss village architecture of Ifrane, high in the Middle Atlas mountains, and spend some time in neighboring Azrou for both summer and winter sports. Marrakesh, less than five hours' drive from Rabat, is famous for the pinkish color of its buildings, its palm trees set against the backdrop of the High Atlas mountains looming up behind the city, its wonderful climate, and the infinite variety of handicrafts for sale in its famous souk. Marrakech is also a good starting-off point for visits to the beginning of the Sahara Desert, trekking into the High Atlas Mountains, viewing the Berber settlements along oases and gorges of the south, or travelling west to the beach towns of Agadir and Essaouira.

The north of Morocco-where the strong Spanish influence continues to be felt-is also worth touring, whether it be to Tangier's medina, to Asilah for its beaches and seafood, to the Lixus Roman ruins near Larache, to Chaouen for a stay in a medieval style mountain village, to Tetaoun for its souk, or to the two Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla, which offer a taste of Spain without leaving the continent.

Entertainment

Public entertainment is in French, Arabic, or Berber. The Very Little Theatre Group (an informal, English-speaking community organization) performs several times per year. French troupes occasionally present classical French plays, modern French dramas and comedies. Folklore attractions are presented from time to time. Cultural missions often sponsor concerts featuring touring artists and ballet and dance groups. Rabat's largest theater, the Mohammed V, offers occasional concerts, shows, performances or art exhibitions. In addition to several neighborhood theaters, many theaters show films in the central business district. Virtually all films, whether American, British or Italian, have French dialog dubbed in. Two theaters in the medina feature Arabic films, mostly Egyptian.

Rabat features many excellent restaurants, including a number offering international cuisine such as Japanese (Restaurant Fuji), Vietnamese (Le Mandarin, La Pagode), Italian (Pizzeria Reggio, La Mama), TexMex (El Rancho), and scores of Moroccan establishments where fresh seafood and French or Moroccan cuisine are specialties. U.S. franchise establishments such as McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Dairy Queen also are located in and around Rabat.

Social Activities

The American Women's Association of Rabat holds monthly meetings and sponsors a wide variety of activities, including an annual fund-raising event to benefit local charities and scholarships.

Along with the Moroccans, you may contribute your effort, skills and personal enthusiasm. Members of the royal family are occupied with and sponsor many of these charities, including the Union des Femmes, organized to promote women in the business world.

In 1998, Rabat had an active Boy Scout troop of about 10 members, ages I 15. The troop included boys of several nationalities, but adhered to U.S. standards. The Rabat American School is the charter institution. Troop No. 241 was awarded the International Boy Scout Crest for exemplifying an "International Experience:" In 1998, there were Cub Scout and Webelo groups, Brownies, Daisies and Junior Girl Scout programs as well. Of course, these groups are dependent upon sufficient adult support to organize and oversee activities.

In recent years, a co-ed slow-pitch softball league involving teams made up of Americans, Moroccans, Japanese and other baseball enthusiasts has been organized for weekend play in Rabat. Typically, teams are drawn from the Marines, Embassy, USAID, Peace Corps, RAS, Hash House Harriers, diplomats and business representatives from Japan, and Moroccans who have taken an active interest in the game. For the younger set, a Little League baseball group organizes practices and games.

RAS is the site of regular volleyball games which mix local Moroccan players, Americans and other expatriates, as well.

Virtually every week, the Hash House Harriers stage their celebrated "race". People young and old of every nationality take part in this regular outdoor activity which gives participants an up-close look at Rabat and its hinterland, before gathering for the social hour which follows. Occasionally, the Harriers organize family travel to another part of Morocco for a weekend together which includes their usual run.

Casablanca

Casablanca is Morocco's economic, financial, industrial and demographic capital (population about 6 million) and the country's most important seaport. It is also a significant airline crossroads from the U.S., Europe, the Middle East and other African countries. Casablanca's broad boulevards, multi-story office buildings, bustling business districts, and relatively small medina (the ancient, walled old city) contrast sharply with the traditional imperial cities of Rabat, Fez, Meknes and Marrakech. Though Casablanca begins at sea level, several of its suburbs are considerably higher. Temperatures range between 46°F and 65°F in the rainy winter and between 65°F and 90°F in the humid summer. Humidity averages 75%. Rainfall averages 15-20 inches a year.

The modern city of Casablanca originates from the ancient Berber hamlet called Anfa. The present city center was largely built during the French Protectorate in the first half of the 20th century, while extensive outlying areas have been constructed since independence in 1956. The most visible new landmark on the Casablanca skyline is the Hassan II Mosque, located on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic with its 200-meter-high minaret towering above the city. This magnificent building took 13 years to complete, with several thousand artisans working on it around the clock. Plans include building a conference center, library and other buildings to house businesses in this redeveloped area of the city.

Food

Markets and grocery stores abound in Casablanca; the Central Market and the Maarif offer the best quality and selection. Although the markets are open only in the morning, the grocery stores remain open well into the evening; in addition, several large American-style supermarkets and buyers' clubs are located in the city.

All fresh fruits and vegetables found in the U.S. are available seasonally. Most personnel buy poultry, meat and fish locally. Cuts of meat differ slightly from those in the U.S., but quality and variety are good. Pork, chicken, and beef are available at prices somewhat higher than in the U.S. Alcoholic beverages are available, although expensive when purchased on the local market. Moroccan wines, however, are plentiful and vary in quality from table wine to quite good vintages. Prices are reasonable by U.S. standards. Casablanca has an excellent selection of French pastry shops and Belgian chocolate shops; Moroccan breads and pastries are of good quality.

Clothing

Most purchase clothing either directly from the U.S. via catalog or while on vacation in Europe or the U.S. However, Casablanca has an increasing number of boutiques with adequate to very good apparel and footwear, some of it imported. Casablanca currently has Morocco's only department store, Alpha 55, which has a clothing department. Clothes may also be purchased at the large supermarkets or price clubs mentioned above.

Casablanca's medina and Habbous district offer an excellent selection of Moroccan arts and handicrafts, everything from bronze metalwork to Berber carpets, to decorated ceramics and pottery. (Other major handicraft centers within the consular district are Marrakech, Safi, Essaouira and Ouarzazate.)

Many expatriates living in Casablanca take advantage of its antique shops, fairs and flea markets to hunt for that special Moroccan or European decorative item.

Transportation

In Casablanca, automobile service and repair facilities are more numerous than in other Moroccan cities. Buses and taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. There are numerous car rental agencies in Casablanca. Rates are more expensive and rental cars generally are older and less well maintained than those for hire in the U.S. or Europe.

Supplies and Services

Casablanca has many excellent hair stylists, beauty shops and shoe repair shops. Drycleaners are not of American or European standards; wash-and-wear is preferable to items requiring drycleaning. Local film processing using the latest technology to produce fast service is reliable and comparable in price with the U.S. Some employees, however, prefer to send film to the U.S. for processing. (For additional information on Clothing and Supplies and Services, see Rabat.)

Religious Activities

English-language services are available at the Anglican Church of St. John the Evangelist, located near the Hyatt Regency Hotel in downtown Casablanca, and weekly Catholic Mass alternates between the Cathedral and Maison St. Dominique. Several Catholic and Protestant churches hold services in French and Spanish. Other places of worship include synagogues and Greek Orthodox Churches. Non-Moslems generally are not permitted to enter mosques in Morocco. An exception is the

Hassan II Mosque where visitors can view the magnificent ornate interior on guided tours for DH 100.

Education

Parents of pre-school age youngsters may enroll their children in the Casablanca American School (CAS), which offers nursery and kindergarten classes on a half day basis, or else choose one of a number of French language pre-schools in Casablanca. A third option is the George Washington Academy (GWA), inaugurated in 1998. The latter offers an American curriculum taught in a trilingual setting (4045% English, 40-45% French and 10-20% Arabic). GWA offers pre-kindergarten through 8th grade education, with plans to expand to 12th grade in the future.

Tuition at the French language pre-schools generally has been less expensive than that charged by CAS; parents must pay this tuition charge themselves.

Other American children attend either CAS or one of the French Mission schools. CAS, which opened its impressive new campus in a suburb named "California" in September 1989 but which has been in operation since 1973, provides English-language, international education from nursery school through grade 12. Interested parents representing the corporate sector and the General founded the school, and it has been well-supported by the entire English-speaking community, as well as permanent residents of Morocco in Casablanca. The school year begins in early September/late August and runs through mid-June. Its walled campus contains a pre-school with 6 classrooms, administration building, large classroom building, two-level library, gymnasium, cafeteria and dining area, and sports field. Construction is planned to begin in 2000 to provide another auditorium, an additional gymnasium, and more classroom space.

All local holidays and some American holidays are observed. The school is supported in part by a grant from the Department of State, and uses modern teaching methods and materials, maintaining high academic standards. It compares favorably to better American public and private schools. The International Baccalaureate program as well as an American high school diploma are offered. In 1999, enrollment stood at 478 students, representing over 30 nationalities. American students made up 9%, Moroccan students were 59%, and 32% came from other nations. Space limitations, particularly in the lowest grades, have meant that early applications for nondiplomatic families are highly recommended.

The school attempts to limit class size to 18 students per class, though CAS responds positively to requests that additional students be accepted from the corporate or diplomatic sectors. French language instruction is provided to all students; Arabic is optional except for Moroccan students for whom it is a compulsory subject. Computer instruction is introduced at an early age. Students can access e-mail through the school's computer lab.

The CAS faculty includes 64 full-time and 8 part-time staff members, including 34 from the U.S. Teachers are assisted by instructional aides in the lower grades as well as by several teaching interns.

CAS integrates the study of Morocco into its curriculum at all levels in order to build a better understanding of the host country. There are academic and athletic exchange programs with Moroccan counterparts; moreover, field trips and visitations promote an appreciation and understanding of the geography, history, language, religion and accomplishments of Morocco.

As the rigorous International Baccalaureate curriculum, beginning in middle school and continuing through high school, places heavy emphasis on mathematics, science and English, students transferring into CAS at the secondary level may find adjustment difficult without a solid grounding in previous academic work. The school will test all such prospective students for placement and make recommendations if there are any deficiencies which need to be addressed. Extremely limited resources are available for students with special needs. All students are mainstreamed into the normal academic programs if admitted to CAS. Parents of high-school-age students should consult with A/OS in the Department of State.

CAS graduates in recent years have gained admission to superior North American and European universities such as Duke, Penn, Stanford, Yale, Harvard, M.I.T., Cal Tech, Vassar, Williams, McGill (Canada), International School of Economics, (Rotterdam), London School of Economics, etc. Depending on the institution and IB examination results, some graduates may be given advanced standing or awarded credits at universities based on their IB degree.

After-school activities include a full range of sports for both boys and girls including volleyball, track and field, basketball, soccer, swimming and softball. Other extracurricular offerings are drama, art, choir, debate and yearbook clubs. Student councils are elected at both the lower school and upper school levels. A charity committee focuses CAS efforts at outreach into needy communities in Casablanca and its environs. On the academic side, the school regularly places students from grade 5 upwards, based on Scholastic Achievement Test results, to special summer programs for the academically gifted at Johns Hopkins, Duke University, Amherst and other U.S. higher institutions.

The French Mission system, another educational option, traditionally has many more applicants than places and therefore gives preference to students who have already studied in the French system. French-language fluency is essential. French school hours are longer (including some Saturday sessions) and discipline may be different for those accustomed to U.S. public schools. Class size could well be substantially larger than that at CAS. Graduates of the Lycee Lyautey in Casablanca possess the equivalent of a high school education plus 1 year of college credit, and may continue their education at French universities.

American college degrees or certificates cannot be obtained in Morocco, though Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane offers coursework in English according to a U.S.-based curriculum leading to undergraduate or graduate degrees.

Special Educational Opportunities

The Department-sponsored FSI language program teaches French and Arabic, depending on funding and community interest. The French Cultural Center also offers reasonably priced French or Arabic lessons. The American Language Center, an independent educational institution, is located in the downtown building which formerly housed the Consulate General. The center offers classes in English, French and Arabic. It also houses the American Bookstore which contains a modest assortment of English-language books.

Sports

The two golf clubs in the Casablanca area have a combined but limited membership for use of their facilities. One 9-hole course is located in the Anfa residential area of Casablanca near the principal officer's home; it also offers a restaurant, swimming pool, sauna, and tennis courts. The other, which has an 18-hole course, is about 20 miles from Casablanca, in Mohammedia. Casablanca has many tennis clubs.

(See Rabat Sports section on beaches, skiing, hiking, hunting, fishing, etc.) A long strip of clean beaches can be found a half hour's drive south of Casablanca in Dan Bonazza, including several private beaches which offer dining, shower and bathroom facilities. Many people enjoy saltwater fishing, and two yacht clubs offer boating and sailing. Surfing and windsurfing are available, but are not recommended for beginners. Recreation for children is limited, but small public parks, a zoo, two small amusement parks, and an aquarium are located in the city. Horses can be rented and excellent instruction is available for children at reasonable rates.

Long distance running is becoming increasingly popular. Employees from Rabat and Casablanca participate in the annual Marrakech International Marathon, as well as in many shorter races. Spectator events in Casablanca are held in the Mohammed V Stadium; weekend soccer matches are popular and draw huge crowds and considerable traffic congestion. The local newspapers offer coverage of sporting events.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Casablanca's consular district offers a wide variety of sights of both natural beauty and cultural importance. Marrakech, with lovely monuments and excellent restaurants, has a booming tourist industry, as does Agadir with its beautiful Atlantic beaches. Safi and Essaouira offer attractive ceramics and handicrafts as well as a less hurried pace, while Ouarzazate is the gateway to the Draa and Dades Valleys, and Zagora lies at the edge of the Sahara. Within a few hours' drive from Casablanca, one can admire beaches, forests, mountains, waterfalls and deserts. The major cities of Rabat, Fez, Meknes, Marrakech, and Tangier are all linked to Casablanca by excellent and inexpensive bus and rail service.

Entertainment

Casablanca offers a wealth of excellent restaurants, many of them French. They can be found both in the major downtown hotel area and out on the Corniche overlooking the water, where diners take advantage of both the beautiful sight and an abundance of fresh seafood. Although there are creditable Moroccan restaurants as well, the best Moroccan cooking in Casablanca remains in private homes. Casablanca has many Lebanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Kosher, Italian, and Spanish restaurants.

In recent years, U.S. franchise establishments have entered the Moroccan market. Casablanca now boasts numerous well-known outlets such as McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Subway, Dairy Queen, Dunkin Donuts, Domino's Pizza and even a Schlotsky's Deli. Additionally, Casablanca offers innumerable cafes and ice cream parlors. Personnel at the Consulate General also travel frequently up and down the coast to enjoy the numerous fish and seafood restaurants in such towns as Mohammedia, El Jadida, and Oualidia. The latter is particularly well known for its cultivation of oysters.

Casablanca has a number of night clubs, jazz clubs and discotheques that typically attract the late night crowd. These are generally found along the city's Corniche waterfront area.

Cultural events are limited, but the foreign cultural centers, particularly the French and Italian, as well as the neighborhood cultural centers of Anfa, Maarif, and Ben M'sik, offer frequent concerts, lectures, painting exhibitions, and other cultural events. The Goethe Institute and the Spanish Cultural Center also offer a variety of programs. Casablanca's dozen cinemas offer mostly American films dubbed into French. Three or four showings are featured daily. The foreign cultural centers also show films in the original language with French subtitles. Teenagers participate in social events with their counterparts from the various high schools. The common language is French.

Few festivities take place in Casablanca proper, but there are occasional "moussems" and "fantasias" (colorful simulated charges by horsemen in full regalia, brandishing and firing weapons), and there are native folk dances in the Atlas Mountains. A National Museum and National Library are planned for the redevelopment area surrounding the Hassan II Mosque.

Newsstands carry primarily French and Arabic periodicals, but the International Herald Tribune, the European editions of Time and Newsweek, and The Economist are found readily. Several excellent French bookstores, some of which carry English language titles, are also available.

Shortwave reception is good. A quality shortwave set receives VOA, BBC, or other European broadcasts. Local radio and TV broadcasts are in French and Arabic. A multisystem TV is required for viewing these broadcasts. (See The Host Country, Radio and TV, for information regarding satellite TV)

Social Activities

The Churchill Club, located in the suburb of Ain Diab off the Corniche, stipulates that its members speak English on the premises. Membership is primarily English and American, with some French and Moroccans who wish to exercise their knowledge of English and socialize with native speakers. This club provides a means of getting acquainted with other members of the English-speaking community. The club offers dinner every Tuesday night, luncheons on Sundays, and limited food service during the week. Members are permitted to bring out-of-town visitors. Facilities include a bar, library, small wading pool, table tennis, and billiards. The club also sponsors dances, ethnic dinners and bridge tournaments. Both the American and British consuls general are ex officio members of the governing board.

The Casablanca Amateur Dramatic Society (CADS) presents several full length plays annually, as well as numerous readings using the Churchill Club's facilities, but remaining a separate group. Casablanca's American International Women's Club membership is mostly non-American, although the club president must be a U.S. citizen. Working closely with many hospitals and schools, this group has an effective charity and development program which provides for the needy, and sponsors one annual fund raising event-the pre-Christmas bazaar. Besides monthly business meetings, the club sponsors afternoon bridge sessions and occasional outings. Many social clubs offer tennis, yachting, riding, and swimming. These clubs and the Royal Golf d'Anfa and Mohammedia provide good opportunities for meeting the local community of all nationalities.

Tangier

Strategically located facing the Strait of Gibraltar, Tangier is one of the oldest urban settlements in Morocco. It likely was founded as a trading post by the Phoenicians around 1100 B.C. and later was settled by Carthaginians and Romans before Arabs arrived in the 7th century A.D. Later, Tangier was fought over by Portuguese, Spanish and the English. From 1906 until Morocco's independence, Tangier existed apart from the rest of Morocco as an international port governed by European countries. It was during these five decades that the city gained a reputation for smuggling, intrigue and espionage. Various artists, writers, poets and eccentric expatriates were attracted to its pleasant climate and checkered history. While the Moroccan government's successful efforts to clean Tangier of its most unsavory elements have altered the character of the city, its proximity to Europe and regular flow of tourists, its somewhat run-down 1930s architecture, its mixture of Berber, Arabic and European influences, and its still active cultural community, combine to make it a highly individual and interesting place.

With a population of nearly 800,000, Tangier is built around a sandy beach and extends up into the foothills of the Rif Mountains. The general topography is hilly and craggy, with scant vegetation in the summer dry season, and with a profusion of flowers and greenery in winter and spring. Average temperature in August, the hottest month, is 86°F Particularly during the summer months, tourists descend upon the city, both from Morocco and the European continent, swelling the city's population and filling its many restaurants, hotels, apartments and cafes.

Tangier's winters, November to April, resemble those of San Francisco, chilly and rainy. January average temperature is around 63°F Periods of rain can last for several days, however, and the resultant dampness coupled with barely adequate heating facilities in many homes require families to have on hand a good supply of warm clothing.

History

It is said that when the doves from Noah's Ark carried back leaves from Tangier signifying that the flood had receded, Noah exclaimed "Et T'heneja!" (the land has come), pronounced in darija Arabic, "Tanja."

The recorded history of Tangier begins with the arrival of the Phoenicians, whose lonely stone tombs still look out upon the sea that brought them here. Following a short epoch of Carthaginian occupation, the Romans took Tangier in the third century. By the eighth century, the Muslims had taken back the city which, with nearby Ksar Es-Seghir, became the base for their invasion of Iberia. The waning power of the Andalusian Muslims brought Portugal to the scene in 1471. Portugal ruled Tangier until the British received it in 1662, along with Bombay, as part of the dowry of the new wife of King Charles II, Catherine of Braganza, the Infanta of Portugal.

The British in Tangier were first led by Lord Sandwich. Morocco was, at that time, ruled by one of its fiercest sultans, Moulay Ismail. His unending harassment of the British colony of Tangier, coupled with political and financial problems at home, caused the withdrawal of the British in 1681. They blew up much of the city as they left.

The first American official contacts with Morocco began in 1777, when the Sultan of Morocco accorded recognition to the maritime commerce of the fledgling United States. Thus, Morocco became the first nation to recognize the U.S. as an independent nation.

In 1856, Tangier became the diplomatic capital of Morocco. The Franco-Moroccan Treaty of Protectorate was signed in 1912, and Tangier was placed under a special international regime. In June 1940, the forces of the Khalifian Army of the Spanish Zone entered the city, and the next year Tangier was incorporated into the Spanish Zone of Morocco. At that time, Vichy, France, which was dominated by Germany, controlled Morocco.

In August 1946, as a result of the negotiations among France, the U.S., the United Kingdom, and the U.S.S.R., the International Statute was reestablished. Morocco became independent in November 1956, and the Tangier International Zone was reabsorbed into the kingdom the following year.

The oldest official U.S. building in the world, outside the United States, is located in Tangier. The former American Legation was a gift to the U.S. in 1821, and was used by official American representatives until new offices were constructed in 1962. In 1981, the old legation building was registered by the Department of the Interior as a national historic site, the first such designation of a property outside the country.

Food

Tangier does not have supermarkets offering the range of food products found in the large shopping centers in Rabat and Casablanca. But fresh seafood, meat and poultry products, and vegetables and fruit can be purchased in the daily souk market or in smaller convenience stores sprinkled throughout the city. Availability of individual vegetables and fruits may depend on the season. Families residing in Tangier recognize that lack of proper sanitation and clean water in surrounding rural areas, as well as use of fertilizer of uncertain origin, require them to wash thoroughly all vegetable and fruit products purchased on the local market.

Tangier's reputation as a place where one can obtain hard-to-find items is still alive and well. Most expatriate families rely on occasional visits to Ceuta-the Spanish enclave an 1-1/2 hour's drive away-to take advantage of reasonable prices, European brand names, and greater variety of vegetables and other individual products.

Clothing

While most of the information pertaining to Rabat and Casablanca applies to Tangier, it should be noted that, despite the city's historic reputation as a more open city, there is a strong underlying strain of conservatism and strictness concerning Islamic morals and values. This manifests itself in a more conservative dress code for women, for example. Use of the djellaba by women is the rule, with fewer Moroccan females dressed in Western attire in public.

As elsewhere in Morocco, but perhaps even more so in a city that attracts a steady flow of European tourists, foreign women attract the attention of the male population. Expatriate female residents claim this uninvited attention can be more persistent in Tangier than elsewhere, at least until the newcomer is recognized as a resident and not a tourist. American women generally adhere to the rule that sleeves should extend to the elbow and skirts to the knee when they are shopping or otherwise in public.

Supplies and Services

Tangier has many competent hair stylists, beauty shops and shoe-repair shops. Drycleaning is more problematical; wash-and-wear should be selected over clothes which require drycleaning.

Religious Activities

Protestant services in English are offered by the Anglicans at St. Andrew's Church. A group of expatriates also meet regularly at the Tangier International Church for Sunday services. Regular Catholic mass in Spanish, or once monthly in French, also are available in the community.

Education

The American School of Tangier (AST), founded in 1950 to serve the needs of the American community, was established as a coeducational, non-sectarian institution open to children of all religious and racial backgrounds. Over the years, as the American community has dwindled, the composition of the student body has evolved so that today the overwhelming number of children attending AST are Moroccan, with a sprinkling of U.S. students and other nationalities. Nevertheless, its American headmaster of more than 25 years and his faculty of 45 teachers, seven of whom are Americans, have managed to continue the school's tradition of providing an English language, American-style education, and to place its graduates in institutions of higher education throughout the world.

The school has been assisted by grants from the Department of State. Together with grant moneys and donated funds, land was purchased and an academic complex was constructed beginning in 1962. The complex includes a modern building housing 20 classrooms, a large library, administrative offices and a fully equipped science and language laboratory. Later, a dormitory was opened to accommodate boarding students from outside the Tangier area.

AST is incorporated under the laws of the State of Delaware as a private, nonprofit educational institution and is governed by a self-perpetuating Board of Trustees, over half of whom must be U.S. citizens. While the school is not officially accredited with any of the various accrediting organizations which exist in the U.S. or Europe, AST has compiled a noteworthy record of turning out graduates who gain entrance to some of the best American, European or Moroccan universities.

AST follows an American curriculum from kindergarten through the 12th grade. While teachers represent various nationalities, textbooks are nearly universally American. Elementary school covers the fundamentals of reading, number concepts and writing. Students are taught the importance of accuracy, close observation and logical thought. Instruction in French begins in the fifth grade. Arabic is an elective except for Moroccan students for whom it is a compulsory subject. Spanish also is offered, along with art and music. The school produces twice a year a school magazine containing stories, essays and poems by students from all grades. AST's Archaeological and Historical Club meets regularly and takes field trips to historical places of interest around Tangier and elsewhere.

In 1998, the student body from pre-kindergarten through 12th grade numbered 340, with 9 Americans among them. Twenty-one other nationalities were represented among the student body. Secondary education is rigorous and designed to prepare the student for college, with heavy emphasis on English, history, mathematics and the applied sciences. A full range of athletic activities is offered, including track and field, swimming, soccer, volleyball, basketball, table tennis and tennis. But perhaps in the extracurricular field, AST is most well known for its dramatic productions which for over 30 years have earned a reputation for excellence and innovative techniques. Typically, these works involve virtually the whole secondary student body who work up to three months to rehearse and stage the productions, with immense contributions from professional members of the artistic community who donate their time and talents to areas of particular expertise such as direction, set design, costume design, make-up or music.

Special Educational Opportunities

There are opportunities for language study in Tangier-French at the Alliance Francaise; Spanish and Arabic at various institutes.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

To the west of Tangier, less than 30 minute's drive, is Cap Spartel with first-class accommodations and restaurant at La Mirage. To the east, one can stop virtually anywhere on the scenic coastal route drive to Ceuta for great sea views and a meal at one of the many restaurants along the way. Ceuta itself has a number of hotels and a completely different atmosphere for those wishing to get away for a weekend. South of Ceuta, along the Mediterranean coast there are any number of resorts-including Club Med and several hotel complexes patterned after it-where bungalows or rooms may be rented. Farther east there is the beach town of Al Hoceima. Other smaller beach towns are located along the Mediterranean coast until you reach Melilla, the second Spanish enclave.

Traveling south of Tangier, Tetouan is worth a visit, if only to spend some time in its souk. Tetouan does not attract many foreign tourists; which makes the negotiating easier, and the city's stylized carpets are well known throughout Morocco. An hour and one-half farther south is the medieval mountain village of Chaouen. This fascinating town was founded by returning refugees from Iberia in the 15th century and remains surprisingly unfazed by modernity. It is a great weekend getaway spot.

Tangier does have the advantage of frequent ferry service to Spain, which opens up touring possibilities in Spain and Portugal. The overnight ferry to Sete, France also permits discovering the pleasures of that country.

(See Rabat and Casablanca sections of this article for descriptions of other Moroccan places to visit. Rabat can be reached in just over 3 hour's drive, most of which is tolled freeway.)

Entertainment

Tangier offers a number of good restaurants, from simple sawdust-on-the-floor, cheap cafes in the medina where fresh seafood is the house specialty, to more upmarket establishments which are licensed to serve alcohol. Many restaurants offer menus with an emphasis on Spanish-style cooking. There are several restaurants featuring Chinese or Vietnamese cuisine, as well.

The medina itself is a labyrinth of small shops and stalls selling every manner of Moroccan artifact. Prices, however, always start very high because of the constant tourist flow, so negotiating a fair price can be a challenge. One stop not to be missed is the site within the medina of the original American Ambassador's residence, now called "the American Legation." It was given to the new U.S. Government in 1777 by the Sultan Moulay Slimane and is considered an American Historic Landmark. The building now houses a museum.

Despite Tangier having fallen on hard times in recent years, the area still has a lively schedule of cultural offerings-from concerts, to film showings, to art exhibitions. The problem for Americans is that most of these cultural activities require French or Spanish in order to be appreciated, for they are sponsored by the Alliance Francaise, the Spanish Institute, the Italian Cultural Center or the German Goethe Institute. One would do well soon after arrival to pay a visit to these respective centers and get one's name on the mailing list.

Aside from the cultural activities listed above, people assigned to Tangier often have to make their own entertainment. Some choose to take mountain bike excursions; some drive up into the surrounding Rif Mountains for hiking; some arrange tennis games or golf outings. All make use of satellite TV systems to receive U.S. and European programming.

Because of language barriers and the fact that Moroccans are accustomed to spending spare time with their own extended families, invitations are not extended to Americans very often. Of course, when they are received, one can expect extraordinary Moroccan hospitality and a sumptuous meal. The best Moroccan cooking is always found in the home.

For cultural reasons mentioned previously, it is not always pleasant for the American woman to venture out in public alone. Local society is conservative and often not accessible.

Marrakech

Marrakech, the fascinating, walled, oasis city of Morocco in the foothills of the western end of the Grand Atlas, was twice the capital of the country. During the Middle Ages, it was one of the great cities of Islam, and a prospering commercial center. Today, this famed gateway city to the Sahara is still alive with color and confusion in the souks, in the bustling Djemma-el-fna Square, in the narrow streets, in the magnificent Saadian tombs and the gardens, and around the Koutoubya mosque with its 220-foot-high minaret. The 1989 population of greater Marrakech was 1,958,000, a figure that is swelled considerably by tourists throughout the year, but especially during the resort season from December through April.

Marrakech (also spelled Marrakesh) dates back to 1062 when, as the encampment of Yusef ibn-Tashfin, it marked the founding of the African capital of the Almoravides dynasty. The city was captured in 1147 by the Almohades, a Berber Muslim sect who ruled Spain and Morocco in the 12th and 13th centuries. Marrakech was the capital of Morocco until 1259, and again from 1550 until 1660. It was founded as a modern European town in 1913.

The city still evokes thoughts of mystery and espionage, and of desert caravans (it was, in fact, once a starting point for slave caravans to the Sahara and Timbuktu). It draws thousands of tourists who are fascinated by the fabulous 12th-century gardens and beautiful marble palaces, and, mostly, by the minaret which has dominated the landscape since its completion in 1190.

The opportunities for sports, shopping, and sight-seeing are many. Tennis and golf are readily available. The hotels and restaurants are numerous, and information about these can be had at the centrally-located National Tourist Office. Many of the better restaurants serve excellent French and Moroccan dishes.

Marrakech has several points of interest. The Koutoubia mosque, constructed in the 12th century, is the city's most-famous monument. The Koutoubia's minaret is a noticeable landmark. Also, the museum of Dar Si Said offers examples of art from southern regions of Morocco. Displays include weaponry, tribal costumes, silver jewelry, mosaics, lamps, chandeliers, and pottery.

The heart of Marrakech consists of the medina, with its myriad of kiosks and stalls, and the Djemmael-fna, which is a huge town square where drummers, dancers, acrobats, snake charmers, storytellers, and folklore groups gather during the late afternoon to entertain passersby.

The skiing season lasts from the end of December to the end of April. Skiing is available at Oukaimeden and in the Ifrane area. Oukaimeden is about an 80-to 90-minute ride from the city and, at an altitude of 8,530 feet, it overlooks the plain of Marrakech. In the Ifrane area, Michliffen and Djebel Hebri offer skiing at a lower altitude of 6,500 feet. Michliffen is open only for a short season because of minimal snowfall. A restaurant and bar are located on the slope. Djebel Hebri has a very steep hill about 10 minutes beyond Michliffen. Hotels, country cottages, and camp sites offer accommodations for skiers during the winter and hikers throughout the rest of the year.

Fez

Fez (also spelled Fès) is the oldest city in Morocco. It was founded early in the ninth century by the Muslim ruler, Idriss II, and is still a religious and cultural center. It is, as one of the most sacred places in the country, a city of ornate mosques and ancient tombs. The Qarawiyin University of Fez is the oldest university in the world and houses a library containing one of the finest collections anywhere of Islamic manuscripts. The ninth-century Karaouyine Mosque is the oldest institute of higher learning in the world.

The souks and the medina provide many interesting hours of sight-seeing, as do the Neijarine Square, the Medrassa Bou Inania, and countless other examples of Moroccan architecture. From the hills, the beauty of the city is memorable, particularly toward evening, when the setting sun casts a glow over the tiled roofs and the labyrinth of narrow streets.

In the 13th and 14th centuries, several madrassas, or religious schools, were founded and these are open to the public. The best known are the Attarine and the Bou Inania, whose caretakers guide visitors through marble courts, under arches dripping with stucco stalactites, into rooms with carved cedar ceilings and intricate walls of tile. In the floors above, ornamentation is absent from the tiny rooms where students lived and studied. In appearance and atmosphere, these cells are strongly reminiscent of French and Italian monasteries of the Middle Ages.

Modern Fez offers good hotels and restaurants, several sports clubs, and many places to shop. It is noted for its Moroccan rugs and handi-crafts, and is the city which lent its name to the brimless hats worn by Muslims in the Middle East.

Several crops are grown in the area surrounding Fez. These include wheat, beans, olives and grapes; sheep, goats, and cattle are also raised.

Good air, rail, and bus transportation make Fez easily accessible. Many visitors drive here from the capital, or from Casablanca or Tangier. The city has an international airport.

The present population of Fez is close to 1,105,000.

Meknès

Meknès is another large northern Moroccan city, 117 miles northeast of Casablanca. It is also a major tourist center. Each May 7, the birth of Mohammed is commemorated with a majestic display of lights and folkloric presentations, called the Feast of Mouloud. Meknès is an old city, founded in the 10th century. During the Middle Ages, it was an Almohades citadel.

Actually, as in other ancient cities and towns in Morocco, there are two cities—the walled medina and the modern center. European influence began in Meknès in the mid-19th century, and the desire for colonization almost led to war between France and Germany. Protectorates had been established by France and Spain by 1912.

The sultan's residence, which was built in the 17th century, consists of gardens, gateways, palatial buildings, and parks covering miles in area. It took more than 50 years to complete, and is referred to as the "Versailles of Morocco."

Meknès has several interesting sites. The main gateway of Bab Mansour is among the most imposing relics in Morocco. Its construction was started by Sultan Moulay Ismail and completed by his son Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah. Another point of interest is the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. It is one of the few Moroccan shrines which can be visited by non-Muslims.

Situated in the heart of the medina is the Grand Mosque. This is one of the oldest and largest mosques in Meknès. Outside the walls of the medina is the Palace of Par Jamai with its art museum which includes examples of pottery and carpets from the Atlas Mountains, as well as embroidery, jewels, weapons, and dressing objects.

Meknès is a main railroad center, and is a source of textiles, vegetable oils, canned foods, and cement. There are several hotels and restaurants, and a National Tourist Office, where information and guides are available. One of the newer points of interest is the Museum of Moroccan Arts.

No schools for English-speaking children have been established in either Meknès or Fez, but the American School at Tangier provides satisfactory boarding facilities.

Oujda

Oujda is a commercial center in northeast Morocco, near the Algerian border. A city of 260,000 residents, it is an important rail junction serving the extensive surrounding agricultural area. The city is a tourist center, has an international airport, and owes some growth to the coal, zinc, and lead mines to the south. Although Oujda has remnants of ancient walls, it is a modern city in appearance.

Oujda was founded in 944 and, in the ensuing centuries, often came under colonial rule. It became part of Morocco in 1797, but was claimed by the French for two different periods in the mid-19th century, and again in 1907.

The city's name is sometimes spelled Oudjda or, in Arabic, Udja.

OTHER CITIES

AGADIR , in southwest Morocco, is one of the country's three chief seaports (the others are Tangier and Casablanca). It was founded by the Portuguese in the early 16th century. Historically, Agadir is known as the site of an international incident which took place in 1911, during the establishment of a French protectorate. A German gunboat, intent on invasion, entered the harbor, and war was narrowly averted when France offered Germany a considerable part of its territory in what is now the Congo. Agadir, one of several Moroccan landing spots for Allied Forces in World War II, was nearly leveled by a series of earthquakes in the winter of 1960. It has been rebuilt and, in addition to its port activity, is also a seaside resort. With its date palm shaded bay, golf course, tennis courts and water sports clubs, Agadir offers the visitor a wide range of entertainment. The city continues to attract an increasing number of tourists. The city's modern market sells meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, flowers, carpets, caftans, ceramics, and handicrafts. A new road from Agadir leads to Marrakech. The population was estimated at 525,000 in 1994. A more recent population figure is unavailable.

CEUTA is a seaport and Spanish enclave and military outpost about 62 miles from Tangier, in northern Morocco. It is a duty-free area, and some Americans make occasional visits to shop. Its Jebel Musa (Mount Hacho), one of two opposite promontories at the entrance to the Mediterranean, commands an impressive view of the Straits of Gibraltar. It faces the other headland (the Rock of Gibraltar) in Spain and, together, they are referred to as the Pillars of Hercules. According to fable, they were one mountain range until Hercules tore them apart in his effort to reach Cádiz. Ceuta, whose current population is over 70,000, has been administered by Spain since 1580. Before that time, it had been first an Arab trading town, and later was held by Portugal.

EL (or AL) JADIDA , a port city of over 120,000 residents on the Atlantic, is located 60 miles southwest of Casablanca. It ships agricultural products. El Jadida was founded by the Portuguese in 1502, and held by them for 217 years. It once was called Mazagan. The city is a favorite beach resort for Moroccans from the big cities. One attraction of note in El Jadida is the subterranean water cistern built by the Portuguese.

KENITRA , a city of about 144,000, is a port on the Sebou (Sebu) River in northwest Morocco, about eight miles from the Atlantic Ocean. It was built by the French to serve the surrounding fertile valley, and once was called Port Lyautey. Allied forces landed at Kenitra in late 1942, during World War II. Its population is about 293,000 (1994 est.).

SAFI (also spelled Saffi) is an Atlantic port and fishing center southwest of Casablanca. It is also an industrial city, and the site of a large chemical complex. The city is an important port for the export of phosphates. Safi is the site of a small 16th century Portuguese fortress, Chateau de la Mer (Sea Castle.) Its current population is 262,000 (2000 est.). Safi was another of the Allied landing sites in Morocco in World War II.

TÉTOUAN , set among picturesque mountains, is 37 miles from Tangier, and has one of the most interesting and attractive medinas in Morocco. Among its principal cultural attractions is the Orchestre du Conservatoire, which specializes in presentations of Andalusian music. Tétouan was the capital of former Spanish Morocco until 1956. It was founded in the 14th century and, in its early years was a pirate base. The city contains many monuments: a fort, walls with well preserved fences, a number of mosques, fountains, and an old imperial palace. The palace was built in the 17th century, but was renovated and restored in 1948. Tétouan has two museums, a college of Fine Arts, and a school of Moroccan Art.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Situated in the northwest corner of Africa, the Kingdom of Morocco covers nearly 200,000 square miles. In size and variability of climate, it is comparable to California. Because of its geographical location, Morocco is known in Arabic as El Maghreb el Aqsa-the extreme west of the Arab world. Between Morocco's western coast and the mountains lies a wide plain, the Gharb, which produces most of the country's agricultural products. The High Atlas, the Middle Atlas, and the Anti-Atlas mountain ranges traverse the country from northeast to southwest. The summits of the High Atlas Mountains climb to 13,664 feet (Toubkal) and 12,300 feet (Ayachi). This range collects moisture from the Atlantic Ocean and distributes it over the western part of Morocco. Because this region lies between the Atlantic and the mountains, it enjoys a temperate climate. The Atlas range cannot, however, shut out an occasional "shergui" (hot easterly wind) from the desert. The eastern slopes of the High Atlas have a semi-desert aspect and a rigorous pre-Saharan climate.

In the north, and independent of the Atlas, the Rif Mountains loom up sharply and follow the curving line of the Mediterranean shore. Here, also, a mild climate prevails, which permits Mediterranean-type agriculture.

Population

Morocco's nearly 30 million people (excluding approximately 1.5 million Moroccans living and working abroad) are principally Berber and Arab, but also include several thousand Jewish Moroccans. Some 50,000 French and a smaller number of Spanish and other nationalities reside in the country.

Islam is the state religion in Morocco. As such, Islam is an integral part of daily life and profoundly influences manners and personal conduct. Arabic is the official and principal language; however, Moroccan Arabic is distinctive, with some differences in pronunciation and vocabulary from classical Arabic. French predominates as a second language and much of the country's business is conducted in French. In the north, Spanish is widely understood and spoken. In rural areas, any one of the three Berber vernaculars that are not mutually intelligible may be used. Many Berbers speak Arabic as well as their own dialect of the Berber language. English is not widely spoken in Morocco, although in recent years increasing attention is being given to learning it. Among young Moroccans, English is the language most people study, after Arabic and French.

Recent statistics give the literacy rate for males to be 57% and 31% for females. An estimated 68% of primary school-age boys and 48% of primary school-age girls had attended primary school for at least some period, while 44% of males and 33% of females had attended secondary school.

In Morocco, food and its preparation are very important. People are proud of Moroccan cuisine, which is both imaginative and unusual, blending and combining various kinds of vegetables, fruits and meat or seafood with spices and condiments. "Couscous," a staple made of semolina and served with chicken, lamb, or beef and numerous vegetables, is the national dish. Another traditional Moroccan dish is "tajine," a spicy stew with as many variations as there are cooks; usually tajines have a meat or poultry base. Other Moroccan delicacies include roasted lamb (mechoui), flaky pigeon pie (pastilla), and a hearty soup (harira) of chick peas, meat and vegetables. Green tea, with fresh mint and sugar, is the national drink.

In terms of apparel, both men and women often wear the "djellaba" in public. This resembles the long, hooded robe worn by Franciscan monks. In years past, Arab women avoided revealing their faces in public. Even today, in some rural areas and among some of the older generation living in cities, women wear veils when outside the home. But the younger generation of city-dwelling Moroccans appears to prefer Western-style clothes, except on holidays and ceremonial occasions. Likewise, in metropolitan centers men wear suits and neckties and women generally wear Western attire to their workplaces.

At certain social functions, Moroccan women sometimes wear caftans, beautifully designed and trimmed robes worn with exquisite gold belts. Men living in the hot and dry southern region of Morocco may wear robes in beautiful blue hues and black headdresses worn for protection from the desert sun.

Public Institutions

Morocco became independent in 1956 with the abrogation of French and Spanish protectorate agreements. Tangier, formerly administered as an international zone, was restored to Morocco two years later and Ifni, a small enclave in the south, was handed back by Spain in 1969. The Spanish departed from the Western Sahara, the disputed territory directly south of Morocco, in 1975. A UN-sponsored referendum to determine whether Morocco's claim to the Western Sahara would be upheld is scheduled to be conducted in the territory in July 2000. Two small enclaves, Ceuta and Melilla, both located on Morocco's northern coast, remain under Spanish control.

In 1962, a popular referendum approved Morocco's first constitution. It provided for a two-chamber parliament, prefectural and provincial assemblies, rural and municipal councils, and local professional chambers. A second constitution, approved by popular referendum in July, 1970, provided for a unicameral parliament composed of 240 representatives. Ninety of these representatives would be elected directly; the rest would be elected by local and professional assemblies. In early 1972, a popular referendum approved a third constitution. It increased the number of representatives in Parliament to be directly elected by two-thirds. A fourth and somewhat more liberal constitution was adopted by referendum in September, 1992.

Morocco is a monarchy with a constitution; the King is considered to be both the spiritual and temporal leader of the country. King Mohammed VI, who has ruled Morocco since July 1999, is the son of King Mohammed V, a national hero who led the movement for independence from France, and is the latest in the line of the Alaouite dynasty which has ruled Morocco continuously since the 17th century. The Alaouite monarchs trace their descent to the prophet Mohamed, and King Mohammed VI thus bears the title " Commander of the Faithful."

Although dominated by the monarchy, the Moroccan political system since independence has been characterized by political pluralism. The principal political parties include the Socialist Union of Popular Forces (USFP), which in 1999 controlled the largest number of seats in the Parliament. The USFP, a member of the "Kutla" (or Democratic Bloc) of parties, which served for many years as the Government's main opposition, represents urban intellectuals and workers. The Kutla also includes the Istiqlal (Independence) party, a nationalist party that has been active since independence, as well as other former socialist and communist groups. The coalition government which took over in 1998, headed by Prime Minister Abdderrahman Youssoufi (USFP), includes parties of the Kutla as well as centrist parties, such as the National Grouping of Independents (RNI) and the National Popular Movement (MNP). The traditional pro-regime parties include the Constitutional Union (UC) party founded in 1983, and the Popular Movement (MP), which represents largely rural and Berber interests. A small conservative Islamist-dominated party also is represented in Parliament.

A referendum in 1996 created a bicameral legislature, composed of the directly elected 325-seat Chamber of Deputies and the indirectly elected 220-seat Chamber of Counselors. The current Parliament was elected in 1997 for terms varying from five to nine years.

Other potential political forces include Morocco's major labor federation, the Union Marocaine du Travail (UMT). The UMT claims 200,000 members, most in the modern economic sector. The Confederation Democratique du Travail (CDT), which claims about 150,000 members, is allied with the USFP, and the Union Generale du Travail Marocaine (UGTM), a third union, is affiliated with the Istiqlal. Moroccan political institutions are based on Islamic tradition, Moroccan history, French precedent, and modern evolution.

According to the constitution, the King-chief of state and commander-in-Chief of the armed forces-shares legislative authority with Parliament. But the King retains exclusive regulatory power and may issue royal decrees ("dahirs") having the force of law. He also is the supreme judicial authority with final appellate functions. All justice is administered in his name. The King appoints his ministers, and a wide range of other officials, including provincial governors and local administrators.

The Supreme Court in Rabat acts as the final appellate court and is charged with defining law. It is empowered only to interpret the law and cannot rule on its constitutionality. Under the Supreme Court are three Courts of Appeal at Casablanca, Fez, and Marrakech, respectively. Although based on a mixture of French and Moslem judicial philosophy, Morocco's legal system also includes elements of Morocco's Berber, Spanish, and Jewish heritages.

Morocco's foreign policy, although officially attached to Arab, Islamic, and nonalignment groups, is generally friendly toward the U.S. and the West. Morocco is an active participant in the U.N., Arab League, Islamic Conference and the Non-aligned Movement. Morocco has been a player in varying degrees in the Middle East peace process over the years. Arab leaders and others frequently call on the

King for consultations. Morocco withdrew from the Organization of African Unity (OAU) in a dispute over Polisario membership in 1984.

Morocco's military is nonaligned but is heavily influenced by the Frenchand to some degree by the U.S. Because of budgetary realities, U.S. military aid to Morocco ceased in 1994, but the U.S. continues to give the Kingdom excess defense articles as well as some education and training for limited numbers of Morocco's military.

Arts, Science, and Education

Morocco's rich cultural and artistic history combines both Moorish and Berber influences, visible in Moroccan music, dance, art, architecture, and literature. Since the early 20th century, traditional art has been supplemented by Western (mostly French) influences introduced and adopted in urban centers. In present-day Morocco, traditional and Western-oriented artistic and cultural systems exist side by side. Several exposition halls showing works of Moroccan and international artists are located in Casablanca, Fez, Tangier and Rabat. Many Moroccan painters trained in Europe have adopted Western techniques, but have retained an interest in traditional subjects as well.

Morocco is rich in traditional crafts such as rugmaking, pottery, leather goods, and metalwork. The country's most noted handicraft centers are Fez, Sale, Marrakech, Safi and Essaouira.

Both Moroccan and touring European theatrical and orchestral companies perform in the larger cities. In August the coastal town of Asilah, just south of Tangier, hosts a cultural festival to which artists are invited from various countries as well as from Morocco. Rabat stages a similar event in June. Fez hosts a sacred music festival nearly every year, usually in May. The coastal town of Essaouira hosts an international music festival, also in May. Andalusian Arabic music is popular and is often presented on TV, radio and in local night spots, but public concerts are rare.

Morocco's most important university, Mohammed V, established in 1957, is in Rabat. Its 36,000 students from Morocco, other areas of Africa, and the Middle East, study medicine, law, liberal arts, and the sciences. Other universities have been established at Casablanca, Oujda, Marrakech, Fez, Tetouan, Meknes, Agadir, El Jadida, Moham-media, Kenitra and Ifrane. The Mohammedia School of Engineers, the Hassan II Agronomic Institute, and the National Institute of Statistics and Applied Economics (INSEA), respectively, are the three most important Moroccan institutions of higher education in their respective fields. In Fez, Morocco's religious capital, Moslem students from around the world study Islamic law and theology at the 1,000-year-old Karaouyine University. There also are schools for judicial studies, information sciences, post and telecommunications, communications and information (journalism), a school for architecture, another for mineral studies, and finally, a National School of Administration.

A new private university, Al Akhawayn in Ifrane, was founded in 1993 and offers instruction in English according to a curriculum patterned after the U.S. model. Many faculty members are either Americans or else U.S.-trained in their respective fields. Both undergraduate and graduate degrees are offered.

At the secondary school level, many Moroccan and French lycees (high schools) offer choices of English, Spanish, or German as a third language. University education, as well as elementary and secondary education undertaken in public institutions, is free. At the university level, most students receive scholarships for expenses relating to books, room and board. During the past few years, technical schools have been opening for those who are not university bound.

Commerce and Industry

Morocco's economy is based largely on agriculture, industry, mining and tourism. More than half of the population continues to depend on agriculture for employment, but agriculture's share of total GDP varies between only 12% and 20% depending on rainfall. Agricultural products-mainly citrus, fresh vegetables, dried peas, beans, olives and wine-comprise about 30% of Moroccan exports each year. Although cereal crops (wheat, barley, corn, and oats) occupy more than 80% of the planted crop land, Morocco must import cereals to cover its food needs. Morocco also is working to improve the exploitation of rich fishing grounds along the Atlantic coast. It already is the world's largest producer and exporter of sardines.

Morocco also leads the world in export of phosphates, with the country holding about 75% of all proven phosphate reserves. The country's most important export, both in tonnage and value, phosphates and derivative products totaled an estimated $1.4 billion, or 3 8% of total exports in 1997. Other important mineral exports include manganese, lead, zinc, cobalt, barite and iron.

The economy's industrial sector continues to build on the base created during the protectorate period. The Office Cherifien des Phosphate's chemical complex at Safi and Jorf Lasfar turn raw phosphates into phosphoric acid, diamonium phosphate, and triple super phosphates. Two oil refineries process most of the country's needs for gasoline, industrial fuel oil, bottled gas, and kerosene from Middle East crude oil. Morocco is dependent on imported energy for 80% of its energy needs. A U.S. firm is involved in a $1.5 billion Independent Power Project in Jorf Lasfar.

Other industries, most of which are found in the axis between Casablanca and Rabat, include tire factories, textile and thread mills, automobile and truck assembly plants, sugar mills and refineries, cement plants, food processing operations, and other light industries and handicraft enterprises.

Some 75 U.S. companies have manufacturing or service operations in Morocco, and many others have regional sales offices. With direct investment totaling $352 million, the United States was Morocco's second largest foreign investor in 1997. Morocco's ongoing privatization process has resulted in the privatization of 52 firms for a total of $1.5 billion since 1993.

Historically, most foreign trade has been with France. In 1996, France bought 28% of Morocco's exports and furnished 21% of its imports. Spain, Japan, India and Italy are Morocco's next most important clients, while France, Spain, the U.S., Italy, Germany and Saudi Arabia are the most important exporters to Morocco. The U.S. fluctuates from third to fifth place among suppliers, depending on the year. American exports consist primarily of grain (especially wheat), as well as mining and heavy equipment products. Morocco's exports to the U.S. are rising steadily; these exports consist primarily of phosphates and derivatives, textiles, barites and canned foods.

About 1.5 million Moroccan workers and merchants live abroad, nearly 700,000 of them in France. Their remittances ($1.9 billion in 1998 versus $1.2 billion for phosphate exports) provide an important positive contribution to Morocco's balance of payments, as does tourism.

Transportation

Automobiles

Plan to bring personally owned vehicles. The importation, sale, or export of personal property-including U.S. employee cars-must be in accordance with the laws, regulations, and conventions of the Kingdom of Morocco. Personal property which is imported by U.S. employees must be for their bona fide personal use or that of their dependents. The importation of a vehicle must not be for the purpose of sale, rent or transfer.

And the automobile should be shipped with its keys and current license plates. Bring with you the invoice or other proof of ownership if the vehicle is new, or the existing registration document under which it has been registered previously. These documents are mandatory for customs clearance and local registration. Also, bring an owner's manual for descriptive details to help with registration of your car.

Approval is not required for a vehicle to enter Morocco, provided it has temporary registration and is insured. A duty-free import request (bon de franchise) must be approved by the MFA and the vehicle registered locally within 1 month following importation.

As noted above, the original title and registration card are required by the Ministry of Transport before a vehicle can be registered. Vehicles imported to Morocco duty-free must be re-exported, sold to another person having duty-free privileges, or if sold to persons without duty-free privileges, customs duty must be paid.

Mandatory third-party insurance costs from approximately DH 1,800 to DH 3,400 (DH = Moroccan dirham), depending upon the size of the vehicle, horsepower of the engine, and intended usage. (A T VA tax of 15.3% is added to the insurance cost if the vehicle is registered in the PAT series.)

All types and makes of left-hand drive cars are driven in Morocco. European cars (locally assembled) are sold in Casablanca, Rabat and Tangier. Repair work on American cars costs less than in Washington, D.C., but spare parts are expensive and often unavailable. Local repair men are more skilled and experienced with manual transmissions than automatic transmissions. Repair work on European cars is cheaper and satisfactory; spare parts are more readily available. However, most spare parts unavailable in Morocco usually can be ordered from mail-order firms in the U.S. In recent years, Japanese and Korean manufactured vehicles have become quite popular in Morocco. Dealerships selling these automobiles generally have spare parts and service departments with trained staff.

Gasoline costs about $3.50 a gallon on the local market. Diesel fuel is available throughout Morocco and is less expensive than gasoline. In 1998, unleaded fuel was available at many gas stations throughout the country.

A valid U.S., foreign, or international driver's license obtained outside of Morocco can be used temporarily. However, local law requires a Moroccan driver's license be obtained within a reasonable time after arrival. Eighteen is the minimum age to obtain a driver's license as of 1998.

Local

Use of public transportation is difficult without a working knowledge of French or Arabic. Very few ticket agents, information clerks, or other public utility employees can understand or speak English. Public transportation in Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier consists of buses and taxis. Bus service is limited. Taxi service consists of more expensive "grand taxis" (Mercedes, or similar) and the cheaper "petit taxis" (Fiats or similar). The latter only operate within city limits and are generally inexpensive if the meter is in working order and used. In recent years, some taxi firms have begun operating radio-equipped taxis which are on call but these are rare. In some parts of Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier, particularly in residential areas, it is virtually impossible to hail a taxi.

The lack of adequate local public transportation can be a problem for employees without personally owned vehicles.

Regional

Adequate public transportation is available to and from the principal cities of Morocco with rail and bus fares less expensive than in the U.S. Morocco's major roads are generally well maintained and directions are clearly marked, especially on more traveled routes. Plane service links the cities of Agadir, Casablanca, Fez, Marrakech, Rabat, Tangier, Oujda, Al Houceima, Essaouira, Safi and Tetouan, with Casablancathe main airport-as the hub.

The rail system links Tangier to Rabat and Casablanca, with connections to Meknes, Fez, Marrakech, and other towns. Some trains are air-conditioned. Train travel time from Tangier to Rabat is about 5 hours. Daily air connections are available to Paris from Rabat airport. More regular international air travel, including direct flights to the U.S. and Canada, is out of Casablanca, the country's biggest international airport.

Auto ferry service runs between Tangier and Algeciras or Malaga, Spain; from Tangier to Sete, France; from Ceuta, the Spanish enclave, to Algeciras; and in the summer from Melilla, the other Spanish enclave, to Malaga. The auto ferry crossing takes 2-3 hours from Tangier to Algeciras, and 5 hours from Tangier to Malaga. Tangier to France involves a voyage lasting 3 8 hours aboard the ferry. Weather permitting, faster hydrofoil service is available between Tangier and Algeciras or Tarifa, Spain, or between Ceuta and Algeciras.

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

Local and international telephone and telegraph service is available. Weekday calls to Washington, D.C. using the Moroccan telephone system cost DH 12 a minute. Substantial discount rates have been offered for international calls placed on Saturday, or on other days of the week between midnight and 7:00 a.m. local time. AT&T and MCI telephone calling cards also may be used in Morocco, but their charges are costly. Morocco is five hours ahead of E.S.T.

A full-rate telegram costs about DH 4 a word. Charges for use of the FAX machine are about DH 24 per page to the U.S.

Internet

Internet access is available in Morocco, and the national connection is generally reliable and fast. Arrangements can be made for a connection at home with any one of dozens of Internet service providers in Rabat and Casablanca. The price of Internet access is higher than that found in the U.S. Residents who make moderate use of the Internet for web access and e-mail at home report costs of $50-$75 per month.

Numerous Moroccan businesses, media outlets, government offices and other organizations maintain web sites which can provide much useful information about Morocco. Below are some of the more interesting sites:

U.S. Embassy in Morocco: www.usembassy-morocco.org.ma Al-Akhawayn University: www.alakhawayn.ma (This web site contains one of the best collections of Morocco-related links.)
Marocnet: www.maroc.net.ma Moroccan Ministry of Communications: www.mincom.gov.ma
Maghreb Arab Press Agency (MAP): www.map.co.ma Moroccan Ministry of Foreign Affairs www.iam.net.ma
Moroccan Trade and Development Services (MTDS): www.mtds.com (Rabat-based Internet service provider)
Maghrebnet: www.maghrebnet.com ACDIM: www.acdim.co.ma (Internet service provider and cyber cafe)

Mail

Moroccan mail service to and from Western Europe generally is reliable. Fast courier services, FEDEX and UPS, operate in Morocco. Packages sent through one of these services from the U.S. ordinarily take at least 48 hours and must pass through Moroccan Customs.

Radio and TV

A good, shortwave set receives VOA, BBC or other international broadcasts. Local stations broadcast in Arabic, French, Spanish, and Berber dialects on AM and FM. One English-language program is broadcast daily. Local radio programs are broadcast 22 hours a day. Music programming is mostly Arab and pop/rock. Morocco radio offers classical music only occasionally. Before leaving the U.S., convert record players and tape recorders to 50 cycles. Two Moroccan TV networks broadcast using the 625 line, 25-picture-per-second system used in much of Europe; American TV's must be adapted for sound. The picture requires no adjustment. Parts for American-made sets are not available, and solid state systems are beyond the capability of local repair shops. TV's for sale on the local market are more expensive than in the U.S. TV programs are scheduled through midnight. Programming is about 60% Arabic and 40% in French. Most of the programs are in color. Two Spanish TV channels can be received in Tangier.

In recent years, satellite dishes enabling viewers to access a wide range of broadcasts have sprouted up all over Morocco as the prices for such equipment have become more affordable. Such systems generally cost from several hundred dollars upward-depending on size of dishto purchase and install. Viewers thus may tune in to CNN, BBC, NBC, TNT, the Cartoon Network or EUROSPORT for free, and also purchase decoding chips which enable them to receive additional movie or sports channels by paying a monthly fee.

When purchasing videotape equipment, remember that the electrical system is 220v 50 cycles locally. The VHS system is used.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

American publications and magazines can be received through the pouch or through international mail. The International Herald Tribune (available on newsstands late the day it is published) or USA Today can be subscribed to for local delivery. Many newsstands carry Time, Newsweek, daily newspapers from France and England, as well as Spanish, Arabic and German newspapers.

The American Women's Association maintains a small, popular, up-to-date lending library at its site in the Agdal district of Rabat. Library hours change seasonally. Volunteers from the American Women's Association staff the library. Membership in the American Women's Association Library requires a nominal fee. The American Language Center bookstores each offer a modest stock of English language bestsellers, classics, cookbooks, children's books and other popular paperbacks, all sold at prices somewhat higher than in the U.S.

Health and Medicine

Medical Facilities

Morocco has several adequate physicians and dentists. Rabat and Casablanca both have U.S. trained dentists. The doctors are trained in the French system; however a few speak English. Reputable oculists, with comparable fees to the U.S., are also prevalent in Casablanca and Rabat. Medical and dental care is more of a problem in Tangier.

Some small clinics are used for medical, surgical, orthopedic, and obstetric care. Morocco has a modern cardiac center at the medical school hospital. Few nurses speak English. Patients requiring major surgery or the care of a specialist are evacuated to London which is the designated emergency evacuation site.

Diagnostic laboratory facilities are available in all major cities. Make arrangements to have ongoing prescriptions sent regularly from the U.S. Over-the-counter medicines such as aspirin, kaopectate, cough syrup, etc., for self-care of minor illnesses are available on the local market. To avoid communication problems and differences in diagnostic and treatment procedures, attempt to complete all medical and dental treatment in the U.S.

Community Health

Public health standards in the cities are steadily improving. The Ministry of Health sponsors disease control programs for tuberculosis and other communicable diseases and has introduced mass immunization programs.

Preventive Measures

Tuberculosis, eye ailments, hepatitis, and diarrheal illness are common among local residents. Servants should be medically cleared before employment and have regular physical examinations during employment, especially if children are in your household. stray animals. There have been numerous cases of rabies reported in urban areas. The climate can prove difficult for people with sinus problems, allergies, and arthritis due to dampness and high mold and pollen counts during certain seasons.

In larger cities, milk on the local market is pasteurized, dated and refrigerated. Long-life milk (UHT) is widely available. Local markets sell excellent European dairy products. Meat is government inspected and stamped accordingly. Locally purchased meat should be cooked thoroughly. Fresh fish is plentiful. For Americans coming to Morocco, the change in diet frequently results in minor diarrhea. Soak all fruits and vegetables that will not be peeled or cooked in a chlorine solution for 15 minutes, then rinse them.

Quarterly tests on water samples taken in the U.S. Embassy and various residential areas in Rabat and Casablanca show no contamination. A number of families, however, have invested in a water filter of the type found in the U.S. This filter device strains out any particles which might be in the system where rusty pipes exist; moreover, users claim the filter actually improves the taste of tap water. In Tangier, station families all have been provided with a water distiller in their USG-leased quarters. Bottled water is widely available and not expensive, and is used when travelling away from home or in restaurants. Fluo-ride content is low in local water, but fluoride supplements are recommended.

Perhaps the major threat to continuing good health in Morocco is pervasive dangerous driving practices. The first few days of encountering, either as a pedestrian or driver, local driving habits can be traumatic for the uninitiated. Most local drivers, even within cities, drive with excessive speed and follow too closely behind the vehicle ahead of them. It is not uncommon for drivers to run red lights, come to a line of stopped cars at a traffic light and forge into the oncoming lane to pass to the head of the line, squeeze three or four cars into space designed for two, or suddenly and without signaling, make a turn to the right from the left hand lane. Meanwhile, all manner of traffic may be encountered within cities and towns, from buses and heavy trucks, to underpowered motorcycles, to bicycles, to the occasional cart drawn by a horse. Pedestrians will cross the street anywhere they like, and at corners people cross without heeding a red light.

When driving in rural areas, one may expect to find tractors, farm machinery and donkey carts also sharing major roads. The latter lack either rear lights or reflectors. Motorists will attempt to overtake on curves or before hills, endangering both you and oncoming traffic. At night, drivers of oncoming vehicles refuse to dim their high-beam lights, which can be temporarily blinding. Be warned that the accident and fatality rates are high, traveling at night in rural areas on all but the major freeways should be avoided, and defensive driving practices are a must!

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Casablanca can be reached daily from New York via London, Amsterdam, Madrid, or Paris. Direct daily flights are also available via Paris to Rabat. Tangier is accessible from various European airports such as London, Madrid, Amsterdam or Barcelona, and flights are more frequent during the summer tourist season.

The Mohammed V Airport is located about 18 miles from Casablanca, and 70 miles from Rabat; the Rabat-Sale Airport is about 5 miles outside Rabat. The Tangier airport is about 9 miles outside Tangier.

Travelers to Morocco must bear a valid passport. Visas are not required for American tourists traveling in Morocco for less than 90 days. For visits of more than 90 days, Americans are required to obtain a residence permit and return visa should they wish to return to Morocco for extended periods. A residence permit and return visa may be obtained from immigration (Service d'Etranger) at the central police station of the district of residence. For additional information concerning entry requirements for Morocco, travelers may contact the Embassy of Morocco at 1601 21st St., N.W. Washington, D.C. 20009, telephone (202) 462-7979 to 82. The Moroccan Consulate General is located at 10 E. 40th Street, New York, NY 10016, telephone (212) 758-2625.

Moroccan customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Morocco of items such as firearms, religious materials, antiquities, business equipment, and large quantities of currency. It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Morocco in Washington, D.C. or the Moroccan Consulate General in New York for specific information concerning customs requirements.

Fees are charged for vehicle registration, license plates, drivers' licenses, etc.

U.S. citizens living in or visiting Morocco are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Consulate General in Casablanca and obtain updated information on travel and security within Morocco.

The U.S. Embassy is located at 2 Avenue de Marrakech in the capital city of Rabat, telephone (212)(37) 76-2265. The American Consulate General in Casablanca is located at 8 Boulevard Moulay Youssef, telephone (212)(22) 26-45-50. Please note that all consular matters are handled at the U.S. Consulate General in Casablanca. The Consular Section's American Citizens Services hotline is (212)(22) 43-05-78. The fax number is (212)(22) 20-41-27. The Internet web site is http://www.usembassy-morocco.org.ma/.

Pets

To bring a cat or dog into Morocco, submit a certificate of good health signed no more than 3 days before departure. A registered veterinarian must state that the animal is free from infections and contagious diseases, particularly rabies. A rabies certificate neither older than 6 months nor more recent than 2 months before the animal's departure is also required. The certificate must completely describe the animal (size, color, etc.), name the owner, and state the time of animal's departure from port of embarkation. It must include a statement that the animal has not bitten anyone within 14 days before departure.

If at all possible, pets should accompany their owners rather than arrive either before or after arrival of owners. Additionally, flights with pets aboard should be scheduled so that arrival occurs during week days when veterinarians normally are on duty to examine documentation and permit entry. There have been cases when pets arrived at odd-hours and were forced to wait until the next business day to be freed from a holding area at the airport. In cases of weekends or during frequent religious or national holidays, delays are common.

Birds with parrot's beaks must be accompanied by a statement signed by the owner and countersigned by a registered veterinarian stating that the bird has been the owner's personal property for at least 6 months before date of departure, that it will not be sold or used for any commercial purposes, and will remain the owner's personal property. A registered veterinarian must also sign a certificate, dated no less than 3 days before departure, stating the bird is free from any visible symptoms of psittacosis (parrot disease) and ornithosis.

For other birds, a signed certificate by a registered veterinarian must be submitted, and dated no less than 3 days before departure, certifying the bird free from contagious or parasitic diseases that can be transmitted to humans or other animals; that the bird is free from ornithosis, plague, and Newcastle disease; and the bird does not come from an area where such diseases are prevalent.

For other animals (turtles, reptiles, etc.) bring a health certificate signed by a registered veterinarian stating that the animal is free from any disease peculiar to its species, and free from any contagious or parasitic disease transmittable to humans or other animals. Importation of rodents, guinea pigs, hamsters and rabbits is prohibited.

Firearms and Ammunition

Only the following non-automatic firearms and ammunition may be brought to Morocco:

Shotguns, 3 (gauge 20,16 and 12) Ammunition, 1000 rounds.

Firearms must be registered with Moroccan police authorities on arrival. A hunting permit and hunting insurance is required (about $100 a year). Any ammunition purchase must be noted by the seller on the hunting permit. A hunting permit will cost approximately $100 a year. Except as listed above, no other types of firearms or ammunition are permitted in Morocco; i.e., no rifled weapons are licensed for private individuals.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

The official currency is the Moroccan dirham (DH). In 1999 the exchange rate was about DH 10 to US$1.00. Morocco prohibits import or export of dirhams. Other currencies may be brought into Morocco, and visitors should be prepared to declare funds in their possession on arrival.

Travelers' checks and credit cards are accepted at some establishments in Morocco, mainly in urban areas. Travelers' checks may be cashed at most banks, although some require the bearer to present both the check and the receipt. ATM machines are available in Casablanca and Rabat, and some American bankcards may be used to withdraw local currency from an account in the United States. Current Moroccan customs procedures do not provide for the accurate or reliable registration of large quantities of American dollars brought into the country by tourists or other visitors. As a result, travelers encounter difficulties when they attempt to depart with the money. In particular, American citizens with dual Moroccan nationality have been asked to provide proof of the source of the funds and have incurred heavy fines. Moroccan currency cannot be converted back into U.S. dollars prior to departure

Local weights and measures follow the European metric scale.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1… New Year's Day

Jan. 11… Independence Manifesto Day

May 1… Labor Day

May 23… National Day

Aug. 14… Oued Ed-Dahab Day

Aug. 20 … The King & People's Revolution Day

Nov. 6… Anniversary of the Green March

Nov. 18… Independence Day

… Id al-Adah^*

… Ramadan^*

… Id al-Fitr^*

… Hijra New Year^*

^*variable

RECOMMENDED READING

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Ashford, Douglas E. Morocco-Tunisia: Politics and Planning. Ann Arbor, MI: Books Demand UMI, 1988.

Berlitz Travel Guides. Morocco Travel Guide. New York: Macmillan, 1989.

Bookin-Weiner, Jerome B., and James A. Miller. Morocco: The Arab West. Boulder, CO: West-view Press, 1991.

Carver, Norman F., Jr. North African Villages: Morocco, Algeria & Tunisia. Kalamazoo, MI: Documan, 1989.

Combs-Schilling, Elaine. Sacred Performances: Islam & Political Authority. New York: Columbia University Press, 1990.

Crowter, Geoff, and Hugh Finlay. Morocco, Algeria & Tunisia: A Travel Survival Kit. Oakland, CA: Lonely Planet, 1989.

Davis, Susan, S., and Douglas A. Davis. Adolescence in a Moroccan Town. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 1989.

Ellingham, Mark, and Shaun McVeigh. The Real Guide to Morocco. New York: Prentice Hall, 1989.

Entelis, John P. Culture and Counter-Culture in Moroccan Politics. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1988.

Horton, Brendan. Morocco: Analysis and Reform of Economic Policy. Washington, DC: World Bank, 1990.

Kaye, J. The Ambiguous Compromise. New York: Routledge, 1990.

Kramer, J. Honor to the Bride. New York: Penguin Books, 1990.

Lye, Keith. Take a Trip to Morocco. New York: Watts, 1988.

Morocco. New York: Prentice Hall, 1989.

Munson, Henry, Jr. The House of Si Abd Allah: The Oral History of a Moroccan Family. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1991.

Nelson, Harold D, ed. Morocco: A Country Study. Washington DC: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1986.

Osborne, C. Morocco. London: Collins, 1990.

Rogerson, Barnaby. Morocco. Chester, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 1989.

Sheridan, Noel. Morocco in Pictures. rev. ed. Minneapolis: Lerner Publications, 1989.

Spain & Morocco on 40 Dollars-a-Day, 1991-92. Rev. ed. New York: Frommer, 1991.

Taylor, A. A Treasure Hunter's Guide to Morocco. Tucson, AZ: Scenic Publications, 1991.