Madagascar

MADAGASCAR

Democratic Republic of Madagascar

Major City: Antananarivo

Other Cities: Antsirabé, Antsiranana, Fiananrantsoa, Mahajanga, Mananjary, Taolanaro, Toamasina, Toliary

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated March 1992. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

Madagascar is a fascinating island. The people, whose origins are a combination of Malay-Polynesian, African, and Middle Eastern, have developed their own culture and traditions that reflect that diversity as well as some unifying aspects, including a common Malagasy language.

Madagascar's long history as an isolated area has contributed to the development of a Malagasy psychology. Although politically associated with the African states, Madagascar is not African; it is not Asian; and in spite of more than 50 years of French colonization, it is not European.

It is thought that the island, as part of Gondwanaland, may have broken from the African Continent some 100 million years ago. Its isolation has led to the development of flora and fauna not found anywhere else in the world, making Madagascar a naturalist's dream.

Antananarivo, the picturesque capital of Madagascar, has proven to be a very special assignment for many Americans, although not an easy one. Americans must be resourceful to adjust to the isolated environment, the language and cultural barriers, and the difficulties of life in a developing country whose economy is severely strained. But the pleasant climate, the abundant fresh food, the flowers, the friendly and unique people, and the uniqueness of all aspects of Malagasy life make a visit here a fondly remembered experience.

The name of the country is the Democratic Republic of Madagascar. The word "Malagasy" is used as a noun only when referring to the people of Madagascar or the language they speak; e.g., the Malagasy speak Malagasy. All other uses of the word "Malagasy" are as adjectives; e.g., "The Malagasy community."

MAJOR CITY

Antananarivo

Antananarivo is the capital city and principal population center (about 2,000,000) of the Democratic Republic of Madagascar.

Centered geographically in Madagascar's central highlands, it has successively been a tribal, monarchical, colonial, and national capital since 1794. Known as Tananarive during the period of French colonization, the city's name was restored to its Malagasy spelling in 1975. For those who know it well, the city is fondly referred to as Tana.

European and traditional Malagasy elements mingle intimately in the streets. On a relief map, the city looks roughly like an enormous letter Y made up of steep, granite hills. Between these hills is the lower town (central district) with its European architecture and wide avenues. The heights are reached by webs of narrow streets or steep stairways and feature balconied, brick buildings clinging precariously to the steep slopes. Rice fields, marshes, lakes, and growing suburbs flood the vast and fertile plains surrounding the city.

Madagascar achieved independence from the French in 1960. Since that time, many of the buildings (in fact, much of the infrastructure) has not been changed or improved. Although new roads have been built, the majority of the old ones have not been repaired or upgraded. Since the capital's population has burgeoned, many of those who work and live on the streets lack housing. Public facilities are inadequate; walk gingerly, especially women climbing the many staircases.

Food

Madagascar is almost exclusively an agricultural country. Antananarivo abounds with fresh, locally grown vegetables including potatoes, lettuce, cabbage, onions, cucumbers, cauliflower, beets, beans, carrots, avocados, and tomatoes. Madagascar's varied climate permits the growing of tropical fruits including papaya, mangoes, lychees, guava, and passion fruit, as well as temperate climate fruits such as apples, peaches, plums, and strawberries. Most fresh produce is seasonal and may not be available year round.

Beef is plentiful, but leaner than American prime. Fresh pork, chicken, duck, lamb, and veal are available. The quality is not uniform. Fresh fish, lobster, carp, oysters, and shrimp are available in the early morning at the downtown fish market.

Luncheon meat, sausage, ham, and bacon are available at a high price, but are not necessarily to American taste. Live turkeys can be bought, but require a great deal of fattening before they resemble the North American version.

Imported processed food, mainly from France, can be found on the local market. Also available are locally processed products including meat, vegetables, pineapple and passion fruit juice, flour, sugar, and spices. Three main supermarkets offer a varying supply of goods. Three or four varieties of cheese are made in Madagascar. Bread, long-life milk, pasteurized milk, and eggs are available. Canned beer, juice, candy bars, and chocolate from South Africa are sold in supermarkets. The local wine is quite good but varies considerably in quality and taste. There are about six varieties of Malagasy wine. French wine can be found on the market but is expensive (about $10 a bottle). Good quality beer, soft drinks, and soda and tonic water are bottled locally, but are not always available. Local liquor prices are high.

To obtain the best value for your dollar, experienced members of the community suggest shipping or ordering from mail-order houses the following foods and supplies: syrup; molasses; nuts; raisins; spices; baking powder and bicarbonate of soda; canned ham; tuna; canned bacon; shortening; cake mixes; peanut butter; flour; pasta products; powdered milk. cranberry sauce; olives; hors d'oeuvre needs such as crackers, toothpicks, and nuts; bartending supplies such as maraschino cherries, cocktail onions, bitters, and drink mixes; all paper products such as toilet paper, facial tissues, napkins, and paper towels; aluminium foil and plastic wrap; insecticides; American-style mustard and catsup; instant coffee; cleaning supplies such as soaps, silver polish, and sponges. Bring preferred brands of all personal needs such as razor blades, shampoos, deodorants, toothpaste, sanitary napkins, and tampons.

Clothing

Cotton and other washable materials are suitable for summer clothing. A lightweight raincoat and umbrella are needed during the rainy season. Since homes in Antananarivo do not have central heating and are quite drafty, bring wool sweaters, long pants, and warm socks to ensure indoor warmth, and medium-weight jackets for outdoor wear. Fur coats are not worn. Evening wear is not formal in Antanananvo, and weekend clothing is casual.

Ready made blouses, skirts, and dresses are available, both in stores and in the marketplace. Prices are quite reasonable in the marketplace, where you always bargain. Tailors and dressmakers can make anything and good imported material can be found in the market. You can also order clothes by mail-order through the pouch. The rough cobblestone streets are hard on shoes, so bring a generous supply, particularly if you or your dependents cannot wear European-sized shoes.

Men: Wool suits are appropriate for winter; a sweater can be added when necessary. A dark suit is appropriate for evening occasions. If you have a dinner jacket, bring it for the occasional gala event. Formal wear cannot be rented; tails are never worn.

Women: Sweaters, skirts, or warm dresses with closed shoes are worn in winter. Evening wear varies and includes suits, tailored dresses, dinner dresses of rich fabrics, and long or short skirts. Long dresses are usually worn at the occasional dinner dance. Hats and gloves are rarely seen. Shorts are not worn in town during summer, but slacks are fine.

Children: Children's wear is much the same as in the U.S., but short pants are popular for boys. Remember to bring warm pajamas, bathrobes, and slippers for winter evenings.

Supplies and Services

The rule of thumb on personal and household products is to bring what you know, trust, like, and would miss if you lacked it! Bring a supply of toiletries; when available, the few products found in stores are expensive. Insect repellent is useful and recommended, especially around coastal areas. Bring stationery supplies, gift wrapping paper, ribbon, glue, tape, greeting cards, playing cards, shelf paper, nails, clothes-pins, small hardware items, kitchen utensils, flashlight batteries, coat hangers, car-care needs, household linens, gardening supplies, picnic equipment, and home repair tools. Local floor wax, scouring powder, and other cleaning supplies are available, but not of the highest quality. Cleaning products imported from France are expensive. To avoid the problems of dry cleaning, bring spot remover.

Bring a good supply of over-the counter medications and prescription medicines, as they are difficult to obtain here.

Infant furniture, baby bottles, and other supplies are expensive and of poor quality; most families import these items. Toys are expensive, and you may want to order items from the U.S. well in advance of Christmas and birthdays.

Most laundry is done in the home by servants. Dry cleaning is of marginal quality, expensive, and unreliable. Barbershop services are satisfactory; beauty shops may not always have hair-coloring products, so it's best to bring your own supply.

Repair services are scarce to nonexistent. Spare parts are usually not available and must be ordered from the U.S. or South Africa. Tailors and dressmakers are available at reasonable prices, but bring a supply of material and notions. Shoe repair is available but of poor quality and workmanship. Reupholstering of furniture is quite good if you provide the fabric. Local products are of poor quality. Imported items are expensive.

Religious Activities

The Roman Catholic, Anglican, Lutheran, Congregational, Baptist, Seventh-Day Adventist, and Greek Orthodox denominations are represented in Antananarivo. Most services are in the Malagasy language. There are also several mosques. French language services are available at three Catholic parishes and at the International Protestant parish of Andohalo. The Anglican Cathedral has monthly communion and a monthly vesper service in English. American missionaries (Baptist, Lutheran, Roman Catholic) are available for counseling.

Domestic Help

While it is not a necessity, it is helpful to hire domestics. Some families employ two domestics: someone to do the cooking and grocery shopping and a second person to do the housework, washing, and ironing.

Domestics usually work a 5½-day workweek and get 30 days paid vacation after being with an employer one year. It is customary to give a bonus at Christmas and/or presents. Salaries are usually less than $100 per month, and employers provide lunch, bus fare, and uniforms. Some servants will live in, but most do not because of the importance of family life in the Malagasy culture. All servants must be covered by work-accident insurance and social security. Annual physical examinations, including x-rays and tuberculosis testing, are recommended for all servants.

Extra help for cocktail or dinner parties can usually be arranged without difficulty.

Education

Madagascar's school system, formerly based on the French system, is Malagasized, and would not be useful to American children.

The American School of Antananarivo was founded in 1969 as an independent coeducational school. It offers an American education from Kindergarten through grade 9. Music, art, French, and physical education are offered to all students. The grade school program is recognized and supported by the Office of Overseas Schools of the Department of State.

The academic year, which is divided into four quarters, is from early September through mid-June. The school day runs from 8:00 am to 2:30 pm. Children do not go home for lunch, but bring a snack and pack a lunch for school. Uniforms are not worn. Children wear the same clothes as they would in the U.S. All books and school supplies are provided by the school. Transportation is the responsibility of the family.

The school is located in the suburb of Ivandry, four miles away from Antananarivo. It has seven classrooms, a library/computer center/video center, an assembly/activities room, a large playground, and a playing field. The American School is accredited through the Middle State Association.

Several private primary and secondary schools are available with French instruction; some are Catholic supervised and provide Catholic religious instruction. Non-religious schools include the Ecoles Primaires Francaises for grades 1 to 5, and the French Government Lycee for older children.

It may be difficult for older children not fluent in French to transfer into the French system, and it takes time to learn the intricacies of French grammar and mathematics. Tutoring is available for about $8 an hour. American children find the French system more rigid, with more homework and less emphasis on sports and extracurricular activities.

Some parents send their older children to school in the U.S. or to boarding schools in other countries. Others employ a correspondence school system and teach their children at home.

Special Educational Opportunities

The Alliance Francaise offers a French language instruction program. Malagasy language instruction is also available. Lessons in music and ballet can be arranged. Swimming, tennis, horseback riding, and golf lessons are also available through one of the private sports clubs.

Sports

Most sports facilities are available only through membership in a private club. A Golf Club, about 15 miles from the city, has a good 18-hole course and a competent instructor who speaks English. Lunch and dinner are served in the clubhouse. and one large swimming pool is used from September to May.

The Association Culturelle et Sportive d'Ambohidahy (ACSA) in the city's center is a popular spot for lunch. The club offers tennis, squash, swimming, billiards, and bridge.

Club Olympique, about 5 miles from the city, offers good tennis courts, swimming, and excellent horseback riding instruction (in French).

The Hilton Hotel has a swimming pool with a nominal entrance fee.

Coastal waters of Madagascar offer snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities, but care must be taken to avoid sharks. The waters near Nosy-Be and Toliara (formerly Tulear) are considered safe. However, an airplane is required to get to the island of Nosy-Be. If you decide to drive to Toliara instead of flying, a four-wheel-drive vehicle is needed.

Registration and licenses for firearms and hunting are relatively simple formalities. Madagascar offers a variety of game, including duck, guinea fowl, partridge, quail, and pheasant. Wild boar and crocodile are hunted in remote places with rifle and shotgun.

Fishing is a common pastime in and around Antananarivo. Black bass and tilapia (a small, perch-like fish) are the usual catches, as is trout.

A number of interesting camping, hiking and picnic spots in the immediate area of Antananarivo are made more inviting by the lack of poisonous snakes and dangerous animals.

Bring all sporting equipment with you since it is scarce and extremely expensive here. Whites are generally worn on tennis courts, and are required at some clubs.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

The variety of climate, scenery, and vegetation found on Madagascar is fascinating and a constant challenge to photographers and nature lovers in search of orchids, animals, minerals, or scenery that is not found anywhere else on earth. Some treks require a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but a number of interesting spots can be seen within the 120-mile radius of paved highways near Antananarivo, or along the 350-mile hard surfaced road from the capital to Fianarantsoa.

A breathtaking but arduous 4-day trip can be made during the dry season to Toliara and Taolanaro (formerly Fort Dauphin) in the south. Both cities have beautiful beaches and shark-free swimming. Cottages may sometimes be rented from American missionaries in Taolanaro; adequate hotels are also available.

Nosy-Be, a beautiful island to the north-west of Madagascar, has good vacation facilities.

Mauritius, Nairobi, Reunion, and the Seychelles are the nearest vacation spots off the island and are serviced by Air Madagascar, Air France, and Air Mauritius. Mauritius and Reunion are served by Aix Madagascar and Air France.

Entertainment

Among the restaurants in Antananarivo, one can choose Malagasy, French, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian, and Italian food.

Several nightclubs are in and around Antananarivo; several casinos are also available.

Soccer matches are played at the large stadium in Antananarivo on Saturday and Sunday afternoons during winter. Horse racing also takes place at the stadium on Sundays.

Dinner and a video show is a popular form of entertainment among the Americans.

The city has a small zoo featuring lemurs, birds, crocodiles, and tortoises indigenous to Madagascar, and a small anthropology museum is located within the zoo's perimeters. The Queen's Palace is now under renovation after a fire in November 1995.

The quality of the light, the hazeless skies, and wealth of subject matter make Antananarivo a delight to the photographer. Bring a good supply of all photographic needs. Film can be processed here; however, there are times when the paper and chemicals needed for developing film are not available. Some staff members prefer to send their film back to the U.S. via pouch for processing…

OTHER CITIES

ANTSIRABÉ , population around 220,000, is situated in the Ankaratra Mountains, in the central part of the country. Thermal springs are located in the area. Industries in the city include spinning and weaving, cigarette making, and food processing. An American Lutheran missionary school, founded in 1916, is in operation here.

ANTSIRANANA , once called Diégo-Suarez, is a harbor town at the northern tip of Madagascar. The deep-water port was a tactical asset to the Western allies in World War II, when they occupied the country.

The city's main industries are ship construction and repair. Other industries include soap and salt manufacturing, chemical production, and food processing. Today, the population is about 220,000. Antsiranana exports coffee and peanuts.

FIANANRANTSOA , with a population of nearly 300,000, is located in the rich agricultural region of southeastern Madagascar. The main crop is rice. Beans, peanuts, corn, cassava, potatoes, yams are also grown. Cattle herding is also important. It is about 200 miles south of Antananarivo on the island's main north-south road.

MAHAJANGA , once called Majunga, is a seaport town of nearly 200,000 in the northwest corner of Madagascar, on Bombetoka Bay. It is an important transshipment port, and was the base for the French expeditionary force in 1895. Like Toamasina, Mahajanga offers a different atmosphere from that found in Antananarivo, but lacks the hotel or recreation facilities to make it a vacation resort. Mahajanga is accessible by air, or by a one-day drive over difficult roads. Mahajanga's industries include the processing of agricultural products, meat canning, and soap, sugar, and cement manufacturing.

Situated near the Mananjary River about 150 miles southeast of the capital, MANANJARY has close to 15,200 residents. As a port city on the Indian Ocean, it directs shipments of olives, coffee, cacao, rice, and vanilla.

TAOLANARO , formerly Fort-Dauphin, is located at the southeast tip of the island on the Indian Ocean. It is a small town that offers attractive beaches, shark-free swimming, and a quiet holiday atmosphere. Taolanaro can be reached by air in two hours, or by car during the dry season in three days. The drive is a scenic but arduous trip. Cottages may be rented from American missionaries in Taolanaro.

TOAMASINA , formerly Tamatave, located on the east coast of Madagascar, is the principal seaport for the country. Founded by the Portuguese in the 17th century, Toamasina has a population of approximately 130,000. As the terminus of the railroad from Antananarivo, it ships coffee, pepper, cloves, and vanilla from its port to other parts of the world. Its industries include sugar refining, rum distilling, food processing, and meat packing. Graphite, quartz, and chromites are mined nearby. Toamasina was rebuilt after being destroyed by a hurricane in 1927. While it offers a change in altitude, climate, flora, and pace from the activities of the capital, Toamasina has little else in the way of recreational activities. The city can be reached in one hour by air or in 12 hours by train. There is no ocean bathing here because of sharks, but there are good beaches and modest hotel facilities at Foulpointe and Ambila, 30 and 60 miles, respectively, along the coast in opposite directions from the city.

TOLIARY (formerly called Tuléar) is a shipping center for marine products and the agricultural products of the interior. The city is located in the southeast on the Mozambique Channel. There are deposits of coal, mica, copper, and gold near Toliary. The estimated 50,000 residents enjoy year-round sunshine and white sand beaches.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Madagascar, the world's fourth-largest island, is situated in the Indian Ocean 250 miles across the Mozambique Channel from the southeast coast of Africa. Covering 230,500 square miles, it is 995 miles long and 360 miles across at its widest point. If it were transposed onto a map of the U.S., it would occupy the area from South Carolina north to New York and from the Atlantic Ocean west to the Appalachian Mountains.

A range of mountains that runs north to south the length of the island creates a distinct geographical division. Cliffs that lead sharply down through dense forests to narrow coastal plains lie to the east. The coastal climate is hot and tropical, with periodic cyclones that cause considerable damage. The descent from the central highlands is more gradual to the west, creating large plains and sweeping savannahs that gently end in a coastline of many inlets. In the south and southwest, these plains become semi-desert where the main vegetation is thorny scrubs and magnificent baobab trees. In the far north, the Tsaratanana Mountain massif (rising 9,468 feet) creates a wet, tropical climate, and separates Diego Suarez, one of the world's greatest natural harbors, from the rest of the island. Along the crest of this ridge lies a high plateau region with rice-growing valleys nestled among barren hills. Here, the crust of red laterite that covers much of the island has been exposed by erosion, showing why the country is known as "the Great Red Island."

Antananarivo lies at the center of the high plateau. It was built on and around steep hills that are surrounded by mountains averaging 6,000 feet in altitude. The city ranges in altitude from 4,046 feet in
the newer part of the city to 4,770 feet in the older sections. Antananarivo enjoys a temperate climate and has two main seasons for which there are more exceptions than rules. Winter is from May to early September, when temperatures average 69°F during the day and 35°F at night. Little rain falls at this time, but abrupt drizzles are frequent. Winter days have warm sunshine at midday, but mornings are brisk and evenings are quite chilly. Summer, from December to February, comprises the rainy season. Daily thunderstorms occur in late afternoon and occasionally in the morning. Cyclones along the coastal areas do not reach the capital, but can bring week-long periods of constant rain. Summer temperatures average 79°F during the day with hot midday sun and 59°F at night. Umbrellas are more useful in this climate than raincoats.

Population

When the first immigrants to Madagascar arrived is uncertain, but it is assumed they came from Indonesia in the first century A.D. by way of southern India and east Africa. Immigrants landed on the eastern coast and spread throughout the island, resulting in the extinction of an aboriginal population. Successive immigrations occurred from Polynesia and the Arabian Peninsula in pre-Islamic times. The Islamic strain arrived later, bringing slaves from continental Africa, followed during the 16th century by Europeans, particularly pirates. The 20th century brought an influx of Chinese, Indo-Pakistani, and a large number of French colonialists. Present-day Malagasy are descendants of a truly mixed race, and the variety of their physical appearance mirrors the variety of their ethnic origins. Asian features predominate in the groups inhabiting the central highlands, whereas the coastal people show more evidence of African origin. As with many aspects of Madagascar, exceptions abound, and it is best not to generalize except to note that the Malagasy are a handsome people.

About 50% of the Malagasy are Christian, divided almost evenly between Roman Catholic and Protestant. An historical rivalry existed between the coastal people, Cotiers, considered to be underprivileged, and the Merina of the high plateau region who are still predominant in the civil service, business, and the professions. The announced goal of the government is that nationalism should overcome ethnic rivalries.

Most people (including Christians) practice a form of traditional religion combined with ancestor worship. They believe death is but a passage to another life from which the ancestors can advise and protect the living. This spiritual communion is celebrated on the high plateau by funeral rites during which tombs are opened for a day and the dead are exhumed so that the tomb may be cleaned, the shroud replaced, and the ancestor joyfully reunited with his family. Although the timing of exhumations varies across the island, the majority of Malagasy try to have the ceremony at least once every five years, funds permitting. These are very important and expensive occasions, since it falls to the family whose tomb is being opened to entertain all guests with food and drink; there is also the expense of new shrouds.

The principal language of the island is Malagasy, a soft, pleasant-sounding language grammatically akin to Indonesian. It is written in the Roman alphabet, using 21 letters. Regional dialects exist but are more a matter of vocabulary and accent than basic linguistic differences. This uniformity of language has been a major factor in creating a national sense of unity among people of diverse cultural characteristics. The Malagasy have had a greater difficulty in switching their thinking and speaking when saying numbers than nonmetric system users have had in attempting to adapt to the metric system. In the Malagasy language, 4,342 is said with the last, i.e., smallest valued, number first.

Many people speak French fluently in the larger towns, but official publications are frequently in both languages, as are the daily newspapers of Antananarivo. The influence of British missionaries during the 19th century resulted in a greater percentage of English speakers found in Madagascar than in former French colonies.

The population of 13 million, currently growing at 2.8% annually, comprises about 8,000 French nationals and sizable Indian and Chinese communities. More than 47% of the population is under the age of 14 years. More than 82% of all Malagasy live in rural areas, and agriculture comprises 41% of the gross domestic product. The country is 99% self-sufficient in agricultural food production. The average Malagasy has an annual per capita income of $223.

Public Institutions

Based on the 1992 Constitution, the executive branch of the Republic of Madagascar is composed of the Presidency and the Government. The President selects the Prime Minister from a list of names presented by the National Assembly; day to day management of government is performed by the Prime Minister and a 29-member Cabinet. The Senate and the National Assembly compose the Legislative Branch, which approves appropriations and bills proposed by the government; however, only the National Assembly with its 138 members is in place to date. The Judicial Branch is not fully implemented. The last presidential election was held in December 1996. Admiral Didier Ratsiraka was elected president, he nominated one Prime Minister and three Vice Prime Ministers. Elections of the National Assembly members and part of local government councils will soon take place.

Arts, Science, and Education

Like most developing countries, educational, scientific, and cultural activities in the Western sense are in a formative stage. The University of Madagascar is decentralized with different disciplines taught in the six provincial capitals, including Antananarivo. Public education, once based on the French system, has been Malagasized. Church-related primary and secondary schools are an important part of education, as they have been for over 150 years. Unfortunately, all levels of Malagasy schools suffer from a shortage of books and supplies. Although education is highly valued and most Malagasy remain in school for only 4-5 years, the overall literacy rate is estimated at 78%. Antananarivo has French-sponsored schools as well as an American-sponsored school.

Malagasy culture is ancient, rich, and varied. It plays a prominent and now reemphasized role in the life of the country. Several organizations, with the active support of the Government Ministry of Art and Culture, are working to preserve traditional music and dance and to record the popular history of the island.

Antananarivo has small museums of national history and anthropology, a tiny but popular zoo, and a botanical park. For more contemporary recreation, Antananarivo has a large sports complex. The French Cultural Center hosts interesting performing events each year. In conjunction with the National Library, the American Cultural Center holds occasional exhibits, forums, and lectures with visiting scholars.

Commerce and Industry

Agriculture forms the basis of the Malagasy economy. Including fisheries and forests, the agriculture sector employs 88% of the population and earns 80% of the country's export receipts. Rice is the most important staple food, with some 70% of the population involved in its cultivation. In recent years, Madagascar has had to import substantial quantities of rice, putting a serious dent in its limited foreign exchange earnings. The most important export crops are coffee, vanilla, and cloves.

Fish and seafood rival vanilla as Madagascar's second most important export earner. Principal production is dominated by food processing, textile, and apparel industries, and accounts for less than 15% of the gross domestic product. Principal mineral exports are chromite, graphite, and mica. Local stones and gems, from aqua-marines to tourmalines, are often breathtaking.

The government has backed away from its socialist policies of the 1970s and 80s and has embraced structural adjustment and free market economics. Recent enactment of a strong investment code and export processing zone legislation has positioned Madagascar to receive foreign investment, notably from France, Mauritius, South Africa, and southeast Asia.

Since 1996, the reform of the business and investment environments tackled the regulatory tax constraints impeding private sector development, particularly for small and medium sized local enterprises and foreign investors. It introduces a more transparent, security-enhancing legal framework and eliminates public enterprise monopolies.

The U.S. is the second-largest importer of Malagasy products after France and consumes most of the country's vanilla exports.

Transportation

Automobiles

In Madagascar, one drives on the right side of the road, yielding the right of way to vehicles coming in from the left. Most major intersections and traffic circles have police directing traffic. If the policeman has his back to you at an intersection, you are required to stop. Seat belts, child safety seats, and motorcycle helmets are not required in Madagascar. If you are caught driving under the influence of alcohol, your car will be impounded for a few days, and you will have to pay a fine. If you are involved in an accident involving injuries and/or deaths, there is a mandatory court case. The losing party of the court case must then pay all costs.

Except for Antananarivo's main streets and a few well-maintained routes to outlying cities, most roads are in disrepair. For those traveling by road between cities, travel at night is not recommended. Roads tend to be narrow and winding with many one-lane bridges and blind curves. Most vehicles tend to drive in the center of the road unless another vehicle is present. Local practice is to blow the horn before going around a curve, to let others know of one's presence. Few pedestrian crosswalks or working traffic signals exist.

Travel within Antananarivo can be difficult with poor road signage and an abundance of one-way streets. Taxis are plentiful, and they are generally reasonably priced. Expect to bargain for the fare prior to getting into the vehicle. Most accidents are pedestrian-related, due to narrow roads and lack of sidewalks on many streets.

Rental cars generally come with a driver who is responsible for maintaining the vehicle and sometimes acts as a tour guide. Public transportation is unreliable, and the vehicles are poorly maintained. Rail services are very limited and undependable. The Malagasy presidential election in 2001-2002 has led to large demonstrations and a slowdown in the transportation system. However, arrangements can be made for a private train to travel to certain destinations.

Repair facilities exist for all French makes, most Japanese makes (Toyota, Mitsubishi, Isuzu), Chevrolet, Ford, Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, and BMW However, the vehicles shipped to developing countries are sometimes different from the models sold in the U.S. or elsewhere. There are no American automobile representatives here. Bring extra tires, spark plugs, fan belts, oil filters, fuel and air filters, oil, automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc., since these are usually unavailable and exorbitantly expensive, even if available. Two or three jerry cans and a funnel may also prove useful. A battery charger and a 12-volt air pump are useful, as gasoline stations do not charge batteries or provide air. Small, economical vehicles are preferred since gasoline (leaded only, regular or premium) is expensive. Diesel fuel is much less expensive than gasoline but is sometimes difficult to find.

Avoid bringing in vehicles with fuel injection engines, or computerized/digital controls, as repairs on such features are sketchy at best. Rule of thumb: If the feature is modern by American standards, service will be difficult or impossible to find.

International drivers licenses are recognized, but are only valid for one year and cannot be renewed for use in Madagascar.

Third-party auto insurance is obligatory and must be obtained from a company operating in Madagascar. It is not expensive. Driving in and around Antananarivo is hazardous. Great caution is required to avoid accidents, especially involving pedestrians, small children, and livestock. Drive with caution as you circumnavigate potholes, ox-carts, and pedestrians. City streets and several highways are paved, but are often in very poor condition.

Many suburban streets and country roads are unpaved, deeply rutted, and rocky. Consider installing heavy-duty shock absorbers and steel-belted radials on your car. Antananarivo's narrow, winding streets make maneuvering large cars difficult. The best vehicle for Tana's winding streets is a small, front-wheel-drive car with a relatively high clearance. Low-slung sporty models would ride too close to many of the local streets, inviting oil pan punctures, etc.

Some purchase four-wheel-drive vehicles; although not necessary for driving to and from work, they are essential for exploring some parts of the island.

Local

Public transportation is inadequate and unsafe. Buses are crowded and rarely used by Americans.

Taxis are plentiful in Antananarivo and inexpensive-$1 or $2 for a ride within the main part of the city during the day. Taxis will take you from the city to the suburbs, but are difficult to find in suburban areas and in the evening.

Regional

Madagascar has three railway lines: Antananarivo to Antsirabe, Antananarivo to Toamasina, and Fianarantsoa to Manakara. Railway cars are spartan and usually crowded and subject to frequent cancellations.

Air Madagascar has almost daily flights to most provincial capitals.

For the adventurous, a network of taxibrousse (private cars in which you can rent a space) links Antananarivo to most towns.

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

Local phone service is fair. Residential bills, average $12 per month plus any long-distance charges. Worldwide telephone communication is available 24 hours daily from home phones through the international operator. A 3-minute call to the U.S. costs about US$26, with each additional minute costing about US$9, if you use the local system. Telephone access changes on a daily basis with more and better companies offering a myriad of services.

Mail

Weekly international airmail deliveries are scheduled to and from Europe and the U.S. International mail to and from Europe takes about 5 days, and averages from 10 days to 3 weeks to and from the U.S.

Radio and TV

Antananarivo has ten radio stations. Malagasy is the major language broadcast but many have some news programs in French and English including VOA.

A shortwave radio is needed for other overseas broadcasts.

National Television, TVM, can be watched in most parts of the country. Reception difficulties may occur, however, because of weather and topography. Malagasy is the main language, but French and English are used for news broadcasts. Entertainment programs are often in French. Madagascar Television, MA-TV, is broadcast in UHF in the Antananarivo area. News is in French and Malagasy. A cable network, Televiziona Fialam-boly, TVF, broadcasts CNN, TNT, and two French stations. The signal is SECAM D K. In addition, two other stations have recently started.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

Virtually no English-language magazines or newspapers are sold in Madagascar. Some current French periodicals are available. European airmail subscriptions to Time, Newsweek, the International Herald Tribune, etc., arrive within 2-3 days of publication, but are expensive.

Several major independent newspapers are published in French and Malagasy daily except Sunday. At least one page is devoted to international news, usually articles taken from Agence France Presse or Novosti and from foreign government press services, including USIS.

The Malagasy Government Ministry of Information prepares a daily mimeographed news bulletin in French. A French language sampler of stories from the Malagasy press is published weekly. Other small Malagasy-language papers present local and international news from various political or religious points of view. Coverage of international events has improved in the past year.

The American Cultural Center library has about 4,000 books in the circulating collection, and 1,500 books and 60 periodicals in the reference room.

Madagascar University's Department of Modern Languages has several hundred volumes in English, but they are for student and faculty use. The National Library has 75,000 books, but few in English.

No English-language books are sold in Antananarivo. Major bookstores have stocks of French classics and paperbacks at high prices. Several Washington and New York bookstores accept mail orders for delivery by package pouch.

Health and Medicine

Health Concerns

Malaria, hepatitis, schistosomiasis, rabies, typhoid, intestinal parasites, cysticercosis, poison shark meat, and plague. Automobile accidents are common and local facilities poorly equipped. AIDS has been documented in low but growing numbers.

Medical Facilities

The Military Hospital has one French physician per Department, but no coverage during leave. Serious medical problems are evacuated to either South Africa or Reunion. Basic dental services are available. Have any dental work done prior to arrival.

Preventive Measures and Community Health

Yellow Fever immunization is required for transit through Africano YF here. Recommended are Hep A&B, Rabies, DT, Polio, Typhoid.

Malaria Prophylaxis Mephloquine (appropriate dose for age) given weekly or Doxycycline daily is recommended for longer stays. Although there are infrequent outbreaks of Malaria in the capital, there are cases. Insect repellent for adults (33%) available in the HU but 10% for children should be brought with you.

Fluoride Supplementation to prevent tooth decay is are recommended for children.

No blood bank facilities are recommended in the country.

Fruit and vegetables should be soaked in chlorine for 15 minutes. Avoid wading in fresh water to prevent shstosomiasis. Avoid strawberries grown in pig manure to prevent cysticercosis. Bring flea control for pets to avoid plague fleas. Avoid ingesting any shark meat to prevent ciguetera poisoning. Avoid under-cooked foods or cold foods eaten in restaurants.

Bring adequate supply prescription drugs plus forms to order more from your insurance plan, extra pair of glasses, lens prescription and sufficient contact lens supplies for tour. Sunscreen, insect repellent. Most over-the-counter medications are available from French companies.

The Clinique des Soeurs hospital has a fairly high standard of cleanliness, but suffers from a shortage of supplies and inadequate services.

Most problems requiring sophisticated diagnostic procedures or surgery are evacuated to Pretoria or Nairobi where regional medical officers are posted. South Africa offers excellent medical and hospital facilities, as does Kenya and the nearby island of Reunion.

Madagascar is suffering from a chronic shortage of pharmaceuticals. Bring any medications prescribed for you and your dependents.

Dentistry standards in Madagascar are not equivalent to U.S. standards, but some Americans have received adequate dental treatment here. Bring an extra pair of eyeglasses or contact lenses and leave your prescription on file in the U.S., should you need to replace them.

Antananarivo's temperate climate is subject to sudden changes and contributes to a high incidence of respiratory infections. Fluctuating temperatures linked with the high altitude and sudden rainstorms create a climate French physicians term "pleasantly unhealthful." Upon arrival, a brief period of sleeplessness may occur, but this should pass in a couple of days.

Antananarivo's water supply is from impounded surface water. The distribution system is quite ancient, and the possibility of illness from contaminated water is serious, especially during the rainy season. The sewage system is poor. Boil all water before using or use your distiller.

Infectious hepatitis is quite common, especially among the foreign population, and is usually transmitted by improper food preparation. It is advised to receive gamma globulin injections regularly at 6-month intervals. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis of both the mansoni and otobium types) exists in fresh water around Antananarivo. It is transmitted through a snail-borne fluke that enters the body through the skin. Therefore, you should stay out of still waters.

Long-life shelf milk in rectangular cartons is available and imported from France. All fruits and vegetables must be carefully washed and treated, as hygiene standards are poor. Fresh meat should be washed and thoroughly cooked to avoid contracting parasites.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

As there is no direct commercial air service by local carriers at present, nor economic authority to operate such service between the United States and Madagascar, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed Madagascar's Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with international aviation safety standards.

For further information, travelers may contact the Department of Transportation within the United States at telephone 1-800-322-7873, or visit the FAA's Internet web site at http://www.faa.gov/avr/iasa/. The U.S. Department of Defense (DOD) separately assesses some foreign air carriers for suitability as official providers of air services. For information regarding the DOD policy on specific carriers, travelers may contact DOD at telephone (618) 229-4801.

Domestic and international air services operate regularly, but they are subject to delays and occasional breakdowns. Air Madagascar often changes in-country flight schedules, based on how full the flight is, with little or no prior warning to passengers. Overbooking is also common.

A passport and visa are required. Visas should be obtained in advance, although airport visas are available in Antananarivo, which is the only city with an international airport. Travelers who opt to obtain an airport visa should expect delays upon arrival. Evidence of yellow fever immunization is required for all travelers who have been in an infected zone within six months of their arrival in Madagascar.

Travelers may obtain the latest information and details on entry requirements from the Embassy of the Republic of Madagascar, 2374 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008; telephone (202) 265-5525/6; web site:http://www.embassy.org/madagascar; or the Malagasy Consulate in New York City, telephone (212) 986-9491. Honorary consuls are located in Philadelphia, San Diego and Houston. Overseas, inquiries may be made at the nearest Malagasy embassy or consulate.

U.S. citizens are encouraged to register at the U.S. Embassy in Antananarivo, where they may obtain updated information on travel and security in Madagascar. The U.S. Embassy is located at 14 and 16 Laiana Rainitovo, Antsahavola, Antananarivo. The mailing address is B.P. 620, 101 Antananarivo, Madagascar. The telephone number is (261) 22-200-89; the fax number is (261-20) 22-345-39.

Pets

Quarantine requirements differ according to the type of animal. A health certificate, issued within three days of arrival in Madagascar, from a veterinarian in the country in which the animal was located, must be provided. Dogs must have a valid rabies vaccination within the past six months.

Firearms and Ammunition

Importation of firearms or ammunition is strictly controlled by the Malagasy Government. Hunting firearms can be carried only in open season with possession of a hunting permit. For additional information, refer to 6 FAM 168.5.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

The official currency unit is the Malagasy franc (FMG). The rate of conversion, is about 5,400 FMG=US$1.

No limit exists on the amount of foreign currency you may bring into the country. However, customs officialsusually require declarations of all monies brought in, diplomatic personnel excluded. Conversion of all currencies is strictly controlled; Malagasy currency is not convertible. If any trips outside Madagascar are anticipated, you will find some dollars useful.

Madagascar uses the metric system of weights and measures.

Disaster Preparedness

Madagascar is prone to tropical storms. Storm season is generally January through the end of February. Storms primarily affect the eastern coast, although large storms may reach the capital of Antananarivo. Storms which affect the shipping ports may limit fuel and food supplies elsewhere in the country. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) athttp://www.fema.gov/.

Security

The Ministry of Public Works (tel. [261] (20) 22-318-02) is Madagascar's authority responsible for road safety. During an emergency, visitors to Antananarivo can contact local police by telephoning 17, by dialing 22-227-35, or by dialing 030-23-801-40 (cellular). American citizens can also call the U.S. Embassy at telephone 22-212-57/58/59 if assistance is needed in communicating with law enforcement officials. Ambulance services are available in Antananarivo only with Espace Medical at telephone 22-625-66 or 22-219-72.

The major concerns for visitors to Antananarivo are street crime and theft from residences and vehicles. Although not generally violent, incidents involving violence by assailants, particularly when the victim resists, are on the rise. Walking at night, whether alone or in a group, is not considered safe in urban areas, including in the vicinity of Western-standard hotels. Organized gangs of bandits are known to patrol areas where foreigners who are perceived to be wealthy congregate. Wearing expensive jewelry or carrying expensive items such as cameras while on foot or while using public transportation is strongly discouraged. Valuable items should never be left in an unattended vehicle. Although crimes such as burglary do occur in areas outside the capital, the threat of confrontational crime is less common in rural areas. Night travel in private or public conveyances outside Antananarivo is discouraged due to poor lighting and road conditions.

The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to local police and to the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. The pamphlets, A Safe Trip Abroad and Tips for Travelers to Sub-Saharan Africa, provide useful information on protecting personal security while traveling abroad and on travel in the region in general. Both are available from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402, via the Internet at http://www.access.gpo.gov/su_docs, or via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1 …New Year's Day

Mar. 29…Martyrs' Day

Mar/Apr. … Easter^*

Mar/Apr. … Easter Monday^*

May 1…Labor Day

May/June…Ascension Day^*

May 25…African Liberation Day

May/June…Pentecost^*

May/June…Pentecost Monday^*

June 26 …Independence Day

Aug. 15…Assumption

Sept. 27 …St. Vincent de Pauls Day

Nov. 1 …All Saints' Day

Dec. 25 …Christmas Day

Dec. 30 …Republic Day

^*variable

RECOMMENDED READING

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country.

English

Andriarnirado Sennen. Madagascar Today. Editions Jeune Afrique (distributed in U.S. by Hippo-crene Books): Paris, 1979.

Astuti, Rita. People of the Sea: Identity and Descent Among the Vezo of Madagascar. Cambridge University Press, 1995.

Attenborough, David. Bridge to the Past. Harper & Brothers: New York, 1961.

Attenborough, David. Zoo Quest to Madagascar. Luttenworth Press: London, 1961.

Barbieri, Gian Paolo, et.al. Madagascar. Harper Collins, October 1995.

Bradt, Hilary. Guide to Madagascar .5th Edition. Globe Pequot, June 1997.

Brown, Merwyn. Madagascar Rediscovered: A History From Early Times to Independence. Shoe String: Hamden, 1979.

Burroughs, William S. Ghost of Chance. Serpents Tail, September 1995.

Dubois, Jean Jacques. Madagascar: Island of Smiles. Deiroisse: Paris, 1971.

Durrell, Gerald Malcolm. The Aye-Aye and L A Rescue Mission in Madagascar. Arcade, February 1993.

Gade, Daniel. Madagascar. M&WMarch 1996.

Gow, Bonar. Madagascar and the Protestant Impact. Holmes & Meier: New York, 1979.

Jerkins, M.D. Madagascar: An Environmental Profile. IUCN, 1987.

Jolly, Alison. A World Like Our Own: Man and Nature in Madagascar. Yale University Press: New Haven, 1980.

Kouwenhoven, Arlette. Madagascar, the Red Island. WINCO, February 1996.

Langrand, Olivier. Guide to the Birds of Madagascar. Yale University, 1990.

Lanting, Frans, et.al. Madagascar: A World Out of Time. Aperture, December 1990.

Madagascar & Comoros. Lonely Planet Publications.

Madagascar: Conservation of Biological Diversity. World Conservation Monitoring Centre. London, January 1988.

Mannoni, O. Prospero and Caliban: A Study of Colonization. Praeger: New York, 1964.

Marden, Luis and Albert Molday."Madagascar Island at the End of the Earth." National Geographic. October 1967.

McDowell, Barton and StevenRaymer. "Crosscurrents Sweep the Indian Ocean." National Geographic. October 1981.

McKnown, Robin and Robert Quackanbush. The Boy Who Woke Up in Madagascar. Putnam: New York, 1967.

McNulty, Faith. Madagascar's Endangered Wildlife. Defenders of Wildlife. April 1975.

Mittermeier, Russell, et.al. Lemurs of Madagascar. April 1995.

Murphy, Dervla. Muddling Through in Madagascar. London, John Murray Publishers Limited, 1985.

Preston-Mafham, Ken. Madagascar: A Natural History. November 1991.

Rudd, Jorgen. Taboo. 2nd Edition. Lutheran Press: Antananarivo, 1970.

Stratton, Arthur. The Great Red Island. Scribner & Son: New York, 1964.

French

Boiteau, Pierre, et.al. Kalanchoe de Madagascar. 1995.

Boumiquel, Vidal. Bonjour Madagascar. Guide pour Voyageurs Curieux. Clignet, Remi, et.al. L'ecole a Madagascar. 1995.

de Flacourt, Etienne. Histoire de la Grande Isle Madagascar. 1995.

Ginther, Paul and J.C. Nourault. Madagascar. Editions Tout pour I'Ecole: Antananarivo, 1970.

Hubsch, Bruno. Madagascar et le Christianisme. 1993.

Jaovelo-Dzao, Robert. Mythes, rites et transes a Madagascar. 1996. Madagascar. Presses Universitaires de France: Paris, 1978.

Oberle, Philippe, ed. Madagascar: Un Sanctuaire de la nature. Lechevalier: Paris, 1981.

Rafenomanjato, Charlotte-Arrisoa. La Marche de la Liberte. Azalees/U Harmattan, 1992.

Rafenomanjato, Charlotte-Arrisoa. Le Cinquieme Sceau. U Harmattan, 1994.

Raison, Jean-Pierre. Paysanneries Malgaches dans la crise. 1994. Rajaonarimanana, Narivelo. Dictionnaire du Malgache contempo-rain (Malgache-Francais et Francais Malgache). 1995.

Rakotoson, Michele. Elle, an print-emps. Saint-Maur: Sepia, 1997.