Finland

FINLAND

Republic of Finland

Major Cities:
Helsinki, Tampere, Turku

Other Cities:
Espoo, Jyväskylä, Kotka, Kuopio, Lahti, Oulu, Pori, Vaasa, Vantaa

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated February 1992. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

FINLAND is a modern, progressive, Scandinavian country, rich in contrast between city and wilderness. The character of its people has been forged by the severity of life in this northern corner of Europe, and the challenge of existing between contending powers has produced a vigorous individualism and inspired a national culture.

Migrant groups from the south and southwest settled the region that is now Finland in the eighth century, driving the indigenous Lapps northward toward the Arctic Circle. Eventually Swedes moved onto the land and, in 1155, introduced Christianity. Sweden controlled Finland for hundreds of years until forced to cede it, as a grand duchy, to Russia in the early part of the 19th century. A spirit of nationalism grew until, in the chaos of the Russian Revolution, Finland was created.

During World War II, the nation fought with Germany against the Soviet Union and, after tragic human and geographical losses and eventual reparation payments, signed an agreement of cooperation and friendship with its former ruling power. Finland's official policy of neutrality and nonalignment has led to the establishment of relations with other countries regardless of their political systems.

MAJOR CITIES

Helsinki

Helsinki, the capital and principal city, is a Baltic port on Finland's southern coast with an estimated population of 551,000. It lies north of such cities as Juneau, Alaska, and Churchill, Canada, and is the second most northerly capital in the world, after Iceland's Reykjavík. Helsinki is a modern city, yet it has areas which give a genuine and comprehensive picture of the atmosphere and architecture of the past.

The city was founded in 1550 by the Swedish king, Gustav Vasa. Great fires destroyed the old wooden Helsinki many times, but it was always rebuilt. The massive walls of the Suomenlinna Island fortress remain from the 18th century. Helsinki became Finland's capital in 1812. Many of its historically interesting sights date from the beginning of the 19th century, when the administrative center was built around Senate Square. The Cathedral of St. Nicholas, the National University, and Government Palace, for example, are among the finest of its architectural achievements. It has been said of the Helsinki of the Empire period that it was the last European city designed as an entity and created as a work of art. Historic Senate Square is one of the most remarkable achievements of neoclassicism at its height; many of its buildings reflect the genius of architect Carl Engel.

Helsinki today has a modern look, with some buildings designed by internationally known contemporary Finnish architects Eliel Saarinen and Alvar Aalto. In planning new areas and developing old ones, the aim has been to make the city a balanced whole with several regional centers, each with its own schools, sports fields, libraries, and shopping centers. The ideal is to combine the advantages of urban living with those of rural life. Approximately 500,000 people reside in the city, which is the administrative, cultural, commercial, and industrial center of Finland. Including the suburbs of Espoo, Vantaa, and others, the population of Greater Helsinki was over one million in 1995.

Helsinki, whose name in Swedish (one of the two official languages) is Helsingsfors, has many points of interest. Among the most popular are the harbor area and Market Square, where the Havis Amanda fountain symbolizes Helsinki rising out of the waves. Other attractions include the Olympic Stadium (site of the 1952 Summer Games), the Sibelius monument, the "Church in the Rock," Finlandia Hall, City Museum, National Museum, and Seurasaari Island.

Helsinki offers a wide and interesting variety of cultural activities, recreation, entertainment, and shopping, and it enjoys an unusually high standard of living.

Schools for Foreigners

The International School of Helsinki, based on American and British standards, offers an education from kindergarten through tenth grade. Several different nationalities are represented both in the student body and on the school board. The full-time staff consists of American and British teachers. The school has initiated a joint accreditation process with the New England Association of Schools and the European Council of International Schools.

International School comprises one wing of an established Finnish school, and can take advantage of some of the Finnish teachers for physical education and special activities.

The English School, Catholic-affiliated, receives support from the Finnish Government since it is primarily intended for Finnish students who wish to learn and maintain English. Religious studies are not part of the curriculum. Classes range from kindergarten through grade 10.

A small, private school, L'École Française d'Helsinki, is run by the French Embassy. Schooling is assured for all ages, including kindergarten, and follows the studies prescribed by the French Ministry of Education. The staff is composed of French teachers provided by the sponsoring government or recruited locally.

The German School, long established in Helsinki, offers classes from kindergarten through high school, leading to a choice of either a German or Finnish diploma. The school is German-oriented, and has the reputation of providing a fine education. The teachers are German and Finnish; instruction is entirely in German. Books and materials are up-to-date and attractively presented. The school is part of the Finnish system, with similar semesters, holidays, and regulations. The staff welcomes children with no knowledge of German in the first few grades, but discourages those at higher levels because of the difficulty of catching up to classmates in the language.

Special Opportunities

The University of Helsinki is the largest university in the Nordic area. Courses in the English department may be taken at the university, but language restrictions in other departments make it difficult for most students to carry a full academic load.

The University of Helsinki offers courses in Finnish and Swedish for foreigners. Classes are taught at all levels of proficiency, during the day and after working hours.

Special educational opportunities are available for children with learning disabilities or physical handicaps, but all instruction is either in Finnish or Swedish.

Recreation

Finland first rose to prominence in sports at the 1912 Olympics, where it took first place in wrestling and second place in track and field. In succeeding years, the country has become famous for long-distance running, ski jumping, speed skating, and target shooting. Sports unique to Finland are bandy, a form of ice hockey, and pesapallo, a game vaguely resembling American baseball. Soccer, hockey, and basketball are popular spectator sports.

From the first of June until late August, daylight hours are long and outdoor activities such as boating, sailing, bathing, swimming, hiking, picnicking, and motor trips may be enjoyed in the immediate vicinity of Helsinki. The time for golf and outdoor tennis is relatively short. Helsinki has four golf courses (two of which have 18 holes) and a few excellent outdoor clay tennis courts, as well as several indoor year-round tennis courts. It is not easy to obtain golf club memberships, and tennis courts usually must be booked in advance and, sometimes, at inconvenient hours.

Squash is also popular; court time is booked on a half-hour basis. Cycling possibilities are good in the Helsinki suburbs during the warmer months. Trails for jogging and walking abound. Boating begins in May/June and extends into September. Swimming and sunbathing at the several municipal beaches and in outside pools are popular for only about two months in the summer, but are possible year round at several indoor pools.

Winter sports include skiing and skating. Excellent trails for cross-country skiing are available in and around the city, and many of these are lighted for evening use. Several smaller towns within a few hours' ride offer good weekend skiing; spring skiing trips to Lapland are popular. Downhill skiing is possible, but facilities are limited. Although there are several small hills near Helsinki, the better locations are farther north. The city has many good outdoor skating rinks and some indoor rinks. Figure skating lessons are available.

There are a number of horseback riding schools in the capital and its immediate vicinity. Helsinki also has one indoor riding hall.

Salmon fishing is found in northern Lapland. Ice fishing is quite popular throughout Finland during the long winter months. Game hunting is possible, but on a limited basis.

The sauna, a national institution in Finland, has existed for a thousand years. Finns normally indulge in a sauna once a week, and it is a custom that most Americans quickly learn to enjoy. Saunas are particularly enjoyable after physical exercise, especially cross-country skiing, and as a means of socializing, although mixed saunas are not customary.

The purpose of a sauna is to completely cleanse the body and soul by being subjected to great changes of temperatures. After the heat of the sauna, there is either a shower or a swim in a pool, a lake, or the sea. The bravest participants roll in winter snow or plunge through a hole in the ice. After the sauna, a cold beer or soda before a warm fireplace is a necessary thirst quencher. Most Finnish apartment buildings and houses have saunas, some with pools. Summer houses, although quite modest, also have saunas, usually on a lake or the sea.

Outdoor recreation and touring opportunities are plentiful, particularly in Lapland and the lake district. Lapland—the land of the midnight sun, northern lights, and reindeer—is Finland's northern-most province. The principal towns are Rovaniemi, the capital, and Kemi, both accessible by air (two hours) and rail (nine hours), and about 500 miles (800 kilometers) from Helsinki. The overnight train with space for cars is a popular way to get to Rovaniemi, a transit point to the tourist and resort areas of Pallastunturi, Kilpisjarvi, and Inari farther north. The traveler can also drive north into Norway and view the fjords. Lapland is especially popular in early April, when the days are longer and skiing is excellent; for midsummer's night to view the fires and festivities; and in September, when the leaves change colors.

The lake district, comprising most of southeast central Finland, provides excellent opportunities for scenic travel by car and steamer ship. A wood-burning steamer offers an unusually scenic 12-hour trip from Savonlinna to Kuopio, with its colorful market and interesting Orthodox Church museum. The 15th-century Olavinlinna Castle, a compact towering fortress built on an island near Savonlinna, is the site of an international open-air opera festival each July.

Day trips to Turku, Hanko, and Porvoo are popular. Turku, Finland's oldest city and its capital until 1812, is two-and-a-half hours west of Helsinki by car. Hanko, a coastal city two hours west of Helsinki, is one of the best Finnish saltwater bathing resorts during July and August. At this time, yachting regattas and tennis matches are held. En route to Hanko, many travelers stop at Tammisaari, a charming seaside town with narrow lanes bordered by Empire-style wooden houses. Porvoo is an idyllic old coastal town one hour east of Helsinki by car. It was the home of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet of Finland, and is the site of an ancient granite cathedral.

A visit or business assignment to Helsinki provides excellent opportunities to travel to Sweden and Russia. Two shipping lines have overnight service between Stockholm and Helsinki. During summer, ships also travel to Tallinn (Estonia) and Travemünde (Germany). Daily flights are available on Finnair or Aeroflot, and daily trains serve St. Petersburg and Moscow. All excursions to Russia require a Russian visa. Since accommodations must be booked before a visa is issued, it is best to have a travel agent in Helsinki handle arrangements. Visa processing takes from 10 days to two weeks.

Entertainment

Since its designation as the nation's capital in 1812, Helsinki has developed into a cultural center. It is the home of many of Finland's most important museums. The largest of these is the National Museum, with its extensive prehistoric, historic, and ethnographic collections. The large Art Museum of the Athenaeum, located across the street from the railroad station, contains Finnish art from the 18th century to the present, and foreign works of art. Occasionally, large foreign exhibits are shown here. The Art Collections of the City of Helsinki and the Amos Anderson Museum of Art are also noted institutions which often have exhibitions in addition to their regular collections.

Many good movie theaters in the city and suburbs offer the latest American, British, Italian, French, German, and other foreign films in their original versions, as well as locally produced films in Finnish. Strict regulations prevent children from attending films featuring violence, whether or not the children are accompanied by parents.

Helsinki has two permanent symphony orchestras, the Helsinki Philharmonic and the Radio Symphony. It also is home to the National Opera, with both opera and ballet companies, and the government-sponsored National Theater. Concerts and recitals are performed in the renowned Finlandia Hall, the Taivallahti Church, Sibelius Academy, and the House of Nobility, among others, providing a rich and varied musical life. During summer, Finnish and international artists and musicians are featured at special performances throughout the country. These events include the Kuopio Dance and Music Festival in June, the Jyväskylä Arts Festival, the Savonlinna Opera Festival, the Pori Jazz Festival, the Turku Music Festival, the Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival, the Lahti International Organ Festival, the Tampere Summer Theater, and the Helsinki Festival.

Many Helsinki residents leave for the country in midsummer, and much of the city's cultural life closes down; however, restaurants and cinemas remain open.

The Finnish-American Society (Helsinki chapter) is a cultural and social organization linked to the League of Finnish-American Societies. All Americans are eligible to join for a nominal membership fee. Other clubs include the American Women's Club, the Finnish-American Chamber of Commerce, the Club of '32, and Rotary, Lions, consular, and diplomatic associations.

Special Note

In Finland, both men and women shake hands on meeting one another. Children also shake hands, and should not be excluded from this courtesy. Punctuality is a must, and guests are expected to arrive within five minutes of the stated arrival time for a dinner or other party. When visiting a Finnish home, it is the custom to take flowers to the hostess, or to send flowers preceding or following the visit. Flowers are usually given to the hostess unwrapped and in uneven numbers. In lieu of flowers, other small gifts may be presented.

At a dinner party, it is customary to make a welcoming speech as soon as the first course is served and all the wine glasses filled. No one touches his or her glass until this ritual has been performed. The honored guest makes a toast and thanks the host and hostess as soon as the dessert wine or dessert has been served.

Finns observe the name day as well as the birthday of close friends, relatives, and prominent people personally known. The really important birthday celebrations are the 50th and 60th, which are recognized by extending best wishes either by phone or telegram, or by sending flowers. Names for the day are published in local newspapers.

Tampere

Tampere, in Finland's southwestern province of Häme, is the third largest city in the country (population, 193,000) and one of the leading textile centers of northern Europe. It lies on an isthmus between Lakes Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi. In Swedish, the city is called Tammerfors.

Tampere has been a trade center since the 11th century, and today is known for its many industries which include paper, shoes, and machinery, as well as its famous textiles. It was here in 1918 that the country's White forces defeated the Finnish Bolsheviks.

Particular points of interest in the city are the Sarkänniemi Tourist Center, with its aquarium, amusement park, planetarium, children's zoo, and the Näsinneula Observation Tower; the university; the town cathedral; the city hall; and the many fine old churches in the surrounding countryside, including Messukylä Stone Church, the oldest in the area.

The Häme Museum is known for its collection of folk art, rugs, and ecclesiastical pieces that show the ethnography and cultural history of Tampere and the Häme province. The Sara Hildén Art Museum displays Finnish and international art, primarily post-war painting, sculpture, and graphics. Bus and boat excursions can be arranged to the lakes and forests.

Tampere is known for the Pyynikki Summer Theatre, the world's first with a revolving auditorium, and for the warm-weather concerts in Koskipuisto Park. The city has a golf course, tennis courts, swimming pools, and nearby beaches. There also are first-class hotels and restaurants (one on the observation tower).

Turku

Turku (in Swedish, Åbo), capital of Turun-Porin Province in southwestern Finland, is a large port and industrial city at the mouth of the Aurajohi River, on the Baltic Sea. There are steel mills, shipyards, textile mills, and machine shops, but Turku is also the center of an agricultural region. Its population is approximately 172,000.

Turku is called "the cradle of Finnish culture." It was the seat of the first bishop of Finland in 1229, and the home of the National University from 1640 to 1827; the following year, after a disastrous fire destroyed most of the city, the university was moved to Helsinki. Turku was the country's capital until 1812. The Treaty of Åbo, in which Sweden ceded part of southeastern Finland to Russia, was signed here in 1743.

The city's great 13th-century cathedral, consumed by fire the same year that the city was destroyed, has been restored. Its beautiful ceiling and the tombs and icons housed within the structure are particularly impressive reminders of Finland's ancient past. Also rebuilt and now a museum is Turku's castle, which dates from the 13th century; it was burned in 1614 and bombed during World War II.

Turku's open-air handicraft museum is one of Finland's most popular summer attractions. Tourists throng to the area to view the displays, and to patronize the hotels and restaurants. The city is interesting both for its history and for its cultural atmosphere. It supports three newspapers.

The picturesque old town of Naantali (in Swedish, Nådendal), with a population of 14,000, is close to Turku, and serves as the city's port. It dates from 1445 and is known for its picturesque wooden houses. The presidential summer residence is on nearby Luonnon-maa Island. Naantali hosts a celebrated chamber music festival each June.

OTHER CITIES

ESPOO (Esbo in Swedish), is the home of the Institute of Technology, with campus and buildings designed by famed architect Alvar Aalto. With a population of 210,000, it is located 11 miles west of Helsinki. Espoo has five regional centers and one of them, Tapiola, is a pioneer work of Finnish town planning, combining comfortable living with up-to-date services and blending into the natural surroundings. Prehistoric finds show that the area of Espoo was settled about 3,500 B.C. The Espoo Granite Church, completed early in the 15th century, contains medieval frescoes.

JYVÄSKYLÄ (population 78,000) is located amid the hills and lakes of south-central Finland. It was previously known primarily as a town of schools and culture, and today is famous for its modern university with buildings designed by Alvar Aalto. Jyväskylä has several museums, including the Alvar Aalto Museum, which displays Aalto's sketches, drawings, designs, and furniture, the Jyväskylä town art collection, and temporary art exhibits.

The city of KOTKA is located in southeastern Finland, about 70 miles northeast of the capital. The main part of the town is situated on the peninsula between the two eastern tributaries of the month of the Kymi River and on the island of Kotka (Kotkansaari). Founded in 1878 by Czar Alexander II of Russia, Kotka began to grow during the late 1930s. Today, it is one of Finland's major eastern ports and handles petroleum importation. The city, with an estimated population of 55,000, has a flour mill and a sugar refinery. The Ruotsinsalmi naval fortifications, built by Catherine II of Russia, stood here from 1795 to 1855, when the English navy completely destroyed the fortification, except for the Orthodox church. That church, St. Nicholas, still stands, and is the city's oldest building. Another historical site is a Lutheran church, built in 1898. The Kymenlaakso Museum, originally built for Alexander III, is 10 miles northwest. It houses objects connected with the naval battle of Ruotsinsalmi, textiles, porcelain, a numismatic collection, and ethnography and cultural history displays.

KUOPIO was founded by King Gustav III of Sweden in 1782. Today, with a population of 87,000, it is the capital of the province of Kuopio. Its location in south-central Finland on the western shore of Lake Kallavesi makes it a center of lake traffic. Museums include the Kuopio Art Museum, the Kuopio Museum, and the Orthodox Church Museum, with Western Europe's most extensive collection relating to the Orthodox Church.

LAHTI is located approximately 65 miles northeast of Helsinki. With a population of 97,000, it is Finland's seventh largest city. Built between two mountain ridges on the shore of Lake Vesijärvi, Lahti is a winter sports center that hosted the 1978 and 1989 World Ski Championships and the 1981 and 1991 World Biathlon Championships. It is also an industrial center for furniture, textiles, window glass, foodstuffs, and beer.

The capital of Oulu Province, OULU (Uleåborg in Swedish) is located in west-central Finland, about 325 miles north of Helsinki. The city was established as a trading post during the Middle Ages. It became a town in 1610 and was later the victim of several misfortunes. An explosion destroyed its fortress in 1793, a fire severely damaged the city in 1822, its depots and harbor were destroyed during the Crimean War, and many sections of the city were ruined during World War II. Today, Oulu is a modern city with universities and a district hospital. Its industries include lumber, shipyards, tanneries, and fisheries. A hydroelectric power source, the Merikoski rapids, is also a major tourist highlight. The Oulu Music Festival is held each February. Oulu has a population of about 118,000 and is linked to other Finland cities by sea, air, and rail.

PORI (Björneborg is situated less than 70 miles north of Turku, in southwestern Finland. Settled farther north in the 12th century, and called Ulvila in 1365, Pori was moved to its present location in 1558. After a major fire in 1852, the town plan was modernized. Kirjurinluoto Islet is a natural park on the Kokemäenjoki River in the middle of town. It is the site of a summer theatre and the annual Pori International Jazz Festival, held in July. The city exports lumber and other products from the port on the Kokemäenjoki River. Located in the city are a 17th-century theater and a museum. Finland's largest short-wave wireless transmitting station is located here. Pori's population is around 76,000.

VAASA , the capital of Vaasa Province, has an estimated population of 57,000, with two-thirds Finnish-speaking and one-third Swedish-speaking. It lies on the Gulf of Bothnia in western Finland. The Swedish king, Charles IX, founded Vaasa in 1606. The country's second Court of Appeal was established here in 1776. After the fire of 1852 which destroyed almost the whole town, a new town plan was drawn up and built closer to the coast. Vaasa exports timber; industries include machinery and soap factories, textile mills, and a sugar refinery. There is regular ferry service to Sweden, along with rail and air facilities linking Vaasa with numerous Finnish cities.

Located less than 10 miles north of Helsinki, VANTAA was incorporated as a city in 1974. It is linked with the capital and Lahti by rail and highways. The city is a commercial and tourist hub and is the location of the Helsinki-Vantaa Airport. Points of interest include the Finnish Aviation Museum and the 13th-century St. Lauri Church. Vantaa's population is approximately 176,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Finland, the sixth largest country in Europe, occupies an area of 130,160 square miles (338,312 square kilometers) about twice the size of the United Kingdom. Its coastline, excluding indentations, is 688 miles (1,100 kilometers) long. Finland is bordered on the east and southeast by Russia, on the west by Sweden and the Gulf of Bothnia, on the north by Norway, and on the south by the Gulf of Finland.

Most of the country is low, but not necessarily flat. Because the soil, mainly moraine deposits from Ice Age glaciers, is very thin, the topography reflects the contours of the Archean bedrock. Elevations greater than 2100 feet (650 meters) are found along the northwestern frontier with Norway and in the extreme northern region of Lap-land. The majority of Finland's 60,000 lakes, comprising 10 percent of the total area, lie in the southern half of the country and provide important waterways and log-floating routes. An extensive and imposing archipelago, extending from the Russian border on the south, westward to the Aland Islands, and from there northward, provides an important fishing and vacation area noted for its magnitude and grandeur.

Apart from the lakes and archipelagos, the outstanding physical feature and natural resource of Finland is its forest, covering about 65 percent of the land area, the highest percentage in Europe. The forests of Finland are mainly coniferous; a limited area in the south and southwest contains hardwood deciduous trees. In Lapland, the spruce and pines disappear, and dwarf birch usually forms the timber line.

Virtually all of Finland lies between latitudes 60° and 70°N, with one-third of its length north of the Arctic Circle, but the Gulf Stream current and the prevalence of warm west-erly winds make the climate several degrees warmer than the average elsewhere at the same latitude. Summers are short (in southern Finland from June 1 to September 1) and mild, with daylight extending well into the night hours. In June and July, only a two-or three-hour period of twilight separates sunset and sunrise. In the extreme north, the sun does not set for 73 days during the midsummer period.

Precipitation, averaging 23 to 25 inches annually, is distributed over all seasons of the year. Winters are long and cold. Snow is possible from October through April, with January through March having the heaviest accumulations. Temperatures may vary from north to south, as does the snow coverage from one winter to the next.

Helsinki's location on the Gulf of Finland accounts for its high humidity level. The city's average temperature is 41°F (5°C). The average mean temperatures in January and July are 26°F and 71°F. The nearness of the sea also affects the city's weather. The mean temperature of 25°F during February, the coldest month, is considerably higher than the average for the country as a whole and, in July, the warmest month, constant sea breezes keep it cooler. During the coldest days of winter, the mercury might dip as low as-20°F, and on the hottest days of summer rise to 85°F, but the weather tends to be more temperate than that of the United States' northern midwest. Helsinki's maritime location also means frequent rain and high humidity.

Average temperatures in Lapland are 10°F (-12°C) in January, and 63°F (17°C) in July.

Population

Finland's population of 5.2 million includes some 3,000 Lapps. Since World War II, rapid industrialization, the growth of service industries, and expanded educational opportunities have fostered a continuous movement to urban centers. In recent years, however, this decline/growth cycle has stabilized.

Finland has two official languages—Finnish and Swedish. Under the constitution, the government must meet equally the cultural and economic requirements of both language groups. Finnish is spoken by 93 percent of the population, and Swedish by six percent. There is a small Lapp and Russian-speaking minority.

After Finnish and Swedish, English is the language most commonly used, followed by German. Foreign-language study is an important part of the secondary school curriculum, and more than 90 percent of all students choose to study English. Most business firms are able to correspond in English, and English-speaking tourists have little difficulty communicating in Helsinki.

Finns are generally of light complexion, with fair hair and blue or grey eyes. Racially the Finns are mixed, as are most European peoples. The main racial characteristics are derived from the East-Baltic and Nordic races. At the beginning of the Christian era, Finland was occupied by a semi-nomadic people, the Lapps. Gradually, the ancestors of the present-day Finns moved the Lapps northward to the Arctic.

The early Finns are believed to have come from Central Asia. Their language, unlike that of their neighbors, is not Indo-European. Like Estonian, Hungarian, and the languages of certain minorities in central and northern Russia, Finnish forms part of the Finno-Ugric family. Characteristics of the Finnish language include the use of case endings, post-positions instead of prepositions, a great wealth of verbal forms, and a highly phonetic orthography. Finns never have trouble spelling.

Christianity was introduced to Finland in 1155 by King Eric of Sweden. For 300 years, the Catholic Church was influential but, during the Reformation, the Protestant religion became predominant. Today, some 89 percent of the population belongs to the state church, the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Church. The Finnish Orthodox congregation, with 1 percent of the population as members, is also a state church, but it owes allegiance to the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Bishops of the eight dioceses of the Evangelical Church are appointed by the president of the republic on the basis of elections held in each diocese. The bishop of the Turku diocese is the archbishop of the Church of Finland.

Finland has complete freedom of worship, and several smaller church organizations have congregations totaling 1 percent of the population. 9 percent of the population claim to have no religious affiliation.

History

Historically, Finland was controlled for long periods of time by both Sweden and Russia. From its first conquests in the 12th century until the surrender of Finland to Russia in 1809, during the Napoleonic wars, Sweden ruled. Then, Finland was annexed and became a grand duchy of Russia. Assurance given by Alexander I that Finnish laws and constitutional rights would be respected became obsolete under increasingly reactionary czars.

The cultural and political awakening of Finland in literature and in resistance to "Russification" quickened the pace towards creation of an independent state. On December 6, 1917, Finland declared its independence and was immediately plunged into a civil war between the "Reds" and the eventually victorious "Whites." A new constitution was proclaimed in 1919. The violence of the three-month struggle left wounds that are still not entirely healed. Both the left and right in Finnish politics have their own version of the events. Political affiliation could still reflect a family choice of sides in 1918.

During World War II, Finland twice fought the Soviet Union: in the Winter War of 1939-40, and again in the Continuation War of 1941-44. Finland suffered heavy casualties, lost 11 percent of its territory to the Soviet Union, and over 400,000 Finns had to be resettled. The Treaty of Peace between Finland and the U.S.S.R., signed at Paris on February 10, 1947, provided for the cession to the Soviet Union of the Petsamo area on the Arctic coast and the Karelian Isthmus in southeast Finland, for the lease of the Porkkala area near Helsinki to Russia for use as a naval base, and for free access to this area across Finnish territory. In late 1955, the Soviets returned the Porkkala area to Finland. The treaty also provided that Finland pay Russia reparation in goods valued at an estimated $570 million (completed in 1952). Finland's defense forces are limited by the Peace Treaty to 41,900 men (Army, 34,400; Navy, 4,500; Air Force, 3,000).

In the United Nations, which it joined in 1955, Finland favors membership for all nations, usually takes no stand on major East-West issues, stresses neutrality as policy of active participation in international life, and channels the bulk of its foreign assistance to developing countries through various U.N. agencies. Finland supports and actively participates in the U.N.'s peacekeeping activities.

An official policy of neutrality and nonalignment has led to the establishment of relations with other countries regardless of their political systems. Finland worked for the convening of the Conference on European Security and Cooperation in July 1973, involving the U.S.S.R., countries of Eastern and Western Europe, Canada, and the U.S. This conference culminated in a summit meeting of 35 heads of state and the signing of the Final Act—often called the Helsinki Accords—on August 1, 1975. Finland has also supported the Strategic Arms Limitation Talks (SALT), which began in Helsinki in 1969. In the Nordic Council, an inter-parliamentary organ of cooperation among Nordic nations, Finland works closely with its neighbors on matters of intra-Nordic concern.

Government

Finland is a Western-oriented republic. Under the constitution of 1919, the president, elected for a six-year term, has powers stronger than those of European counterparts, although not as great as U.S. presidential powers. The president, currently Tarja Halonen, has full powers over foreign affairs, is the commander-in-chief of the armed forces, and can dissolve parliament.

The Council of State Cabinet is appointed by the president and includes the prime minister, currently Paavo Lipponen, and usually about 16 ministers and associate ministers in charge of the 11 government departments. The Parliament (Eduskunta) is unicameral and consists of 200 members directly elected every four years through proportional representation. Under the constitution, the Eduskunta is the supreme authority in Finland. It has the power to amend the constitution, force the resignation of the Council of State, and override presidential vetoes without judicial review. Suffrage is equal and universal; all citizens over the age of 18 have the right to vote. Finland was the first country in Europe to grant full political rights to women (1906), well before the U.S.

Finnish policies on most basic domestic and foreign issues have been consistent, notwithstanding a relatively rapid turnover of cabinets and periods when no government commanded a parliamentary majority.

Nine political parties are represented in Parliament. Most Finnish governments are multi-party coalitions, although at times it has been necessary to form cabinets composed of non-party technical experts. The average life of Finnish cabinets has been 12 months. By contrast, Finland has had only five presidents since 1946. Recently, however, the duration of cabinets has lengthened considerably.

Justice is administered by independent courts. The public courts of justice try both civil and criminal cases. In rural areas, courts of the first instance are known as circuit courts, the judicial authority resting in a legally trained judge and a jury of lay members. Cities have municipal courts, each presided over by a legally trained magistrate and two counselors. Other courts are the Courts of Appeal and the highest judicial authority, the Supreme Court, to which appeals may be made against the judgments of the former.

Judicial procedure differs from that in Anglo-Saxon countries; Finnish law is codified and does not provide for writ of habeas corpus or bail. Formal charges must be brought within seven days of detention on suspicion and, in practice, charges are usually brought within three to four days. Courts of first instance must hear a case within 30 days of arrest. Civil rights are deeply entrenched and strictly observed by the police and courts.

The 12 Finnish provinces are divided into cities and communes and are administered by municipal and communal council elected every four years. The eleven mainland provinces each have a governor appointed by the president. The governors report to the Ministry of the Interior. The island province of Aland, located between Finland and Sweden in the southern part of the Gulf of Bothnia operates under local autonomy under a 1921 international convention.

The flag of Finland is white with a blue cross.

Arts, Science, Education

Much of the richness of Finnish culture derives from the folk element. A wealth of songs, buildings, costumes, and traditions has been carefully preserved over the years. Finnish literature in its oldest form is comprised of the epic poems and tales passed from generation to generation by word of mouth. Since the first half of the 19th century, a determined effort has been made to preserve the national culture through creation of a Finnish-language literature. Many of the resulting masterpieces, both in poetry and prose, reflect a historical context and regional spirit. Publication in 1835 of the Finnish national epic, The Kalevala, a collection of traditional myths and legends, first stirred the nationalism that led to independence in 1917.

Finnish architecture is justly famous, from the earliest achievements seen in medieval castles, through the elaborate wooden buildings of the 18th century, to the innovative and functional design prevalent today. Alvo Aalto (1898-1976), the modern Finnish architect, influenced urban and regional planning, interior decoration, and industrial art. Finlandia Hall, the National Pensions Institute, Aalto's Enso-Gutzeit Building, and the Helsinki Railway Station of Eliel Saarinen are only four of many buildings which attract students of architecture from all over the world.

In the fields of music, painting, and sculpture are found many examples of Finnish genius. Glass (Nuutajarvi, Iittala, Humppila, etc.), porcelain (Arabia), textiles (Marimekko, Vuokko, and Pentik), jewelry (Lapponia and Kalevala Koru), and furniture (Alvar Aalto and Ilmari Tapiovaara) are some of the many items that bear the unique stamp of Finnish handiwork and design.

Finland, with virtually no illiteracy, has an advanced educational system, which is free and includes all textbooks and a broad medical-care program. Pupils receive a hot meal each day at school. Special schools have been established in the larger cities for children who are handicapped or have learning disabilities. Four basic levels comprise the school system: preschool education, compulsory education (the nine-year comprehensive school), upper secondary education, and the universities and similar institutions.

Finland has a strong state-subsidized adult education program, with classes held at community schools or workers' institutes. This program supplements and/or completes the basic education and provides for advanced vocational training or cultural and intellectual pursuits.

The largest university is the state-supported University of Helsinki, which has spearheaded the country's intellectual life since the 17th century. Founded in 1640 as the State University of Turku, it was moved to Helsinki in 1828. Another important state school of advanced education is the Institute of Technology, established in 1908, and now located at Otaniemi in Espoo. The entire campus was designed by architect Alvar Aalto.

State-supported higher education facilities have undergone major expansion since 1958. Jyväskylä Teachers College, founded in 1934, was enlarged to university status. In 1959, a new university was established at Oulu in the north. It was followed by universities in Joensuu and Kuopio. The latest in Rovaniemi (Lapin Province), established in 1979, is the world's most northerly university.

Commerce and Industry

Finland has become a modern industrialized nation. The prevailing standard of living is at the same high level which characterizes the other Scandinavian countries, with Finland ranking in the top dozen or so nations in terms of personal-income levels. Economic development has taken place in the face of many obstacles. At the time of independence from Russia in 1917, Finland's economy was that of an undeveloped, remote Russian province; about 20 years after independence, Finland was thrust into a series of three destructive wars—two against the U.S.S.R. and one against German armed forces. Wartime damage was heavy and peace terms imposed on Finland included heavy "reparations" payments to the Soviet Union.

Today, Finland is an essentially private economy. Most businesses are privately owned; however, some larger industrial enterprises are government owned in areas such as steel and mining. Railroads are state owned and the Finnair airline is majority state owned. The telephone system is split between government and private companies. Oil refining is a government monopoly, but retail gas stations are both state and privately held; all sales of high alcohol-content beverages are in government-owned stores.

Overall, the country's economic situation is impressive. Finland has been a leader in Europe in terms of economic growth. Inflation has been at higher than prevailing European levels, but has recently been better controlled. Still, for various reasons, prices are high by current U.S. standards.

Finland's main economic force is in manufacturing—often for export. Forest industries are still strong, but they are shrinking. Agriculture has, over the years, been declining, but farmers continue to be encouraged by government support to maintain national self-sufficiency in basic food production, the quality of which is very high. Only eight percent of Finland is under cultivation. The service industries are enjoying healthy growth in fields such as banking, insurance, and engineer-ing/design services.

Foreign trade is extremely important; Finland must import all of its oil, as well as some metals, chemicals, and food products. Machinery imports are high, but are balanced by a high number of machinery exports. Forestry products, such as paper, are a primary export, as are ships, furs, clothing, and glassware. Germany, Britain, Sweden, Russia, and the U.S. are the primary source of product imports. Finland participates in international economic organizations; supports free trade policies; and is a member of the World Bank, the International Finance Corporation, the Asian Development Bank and the Inter-American Development Bank. Investment abroad is increasing as well, with nearly 200 Finnish-owned firms in the U.S., including four banks in New York City.

Finland donates foreign aid to less developed countries, particularly in Africa and Asia. Finnish citizens actively support Finland's aid policies.

The Helsinki Chamber of Commerce is located at Kalevanketu 12, 00100 Helsinki 10.

Transportation

The Finnish State Railways has a vast operating track (5,580 miles), with links to Sweden and the Russia. The northernmost point accessible by train is Kemijärvi, north of Rovaniemi.

The highway system is constantly being expanded; public roads cover 48,320 miles (77,796 kilometers), of which about half are paved. Trucking and bus services are steadily gaining in importance as carriers of passengers and goods. However, although highways are well maintained, they are not as efficient at transporting traffic as might be expected for a modern industrial nation; travel time is frequently longer than anticipated.

Finnair Oy (with the state as major stockholder) maintains regular air service to locales within Finland; to major European capitals; and to Seattle, Los Angeles, New York, and Montreal, among cities on other continents. Most freight and much of the passenger traffic is via sea. Harbors are kept open even during the coldest winter periods, with ferry links available to Sweden, Germany, and Estonia on a regularly scheduled basis.

Helsinki offers excellent bus and tram service. Taxis, readily available at many stands throughout the city, may be reached by calling the widely publicized numbers for these taxi centers. Fares are not excessive and drivers are not tipped. Certain suburbs are efficiently served by commuter trains. A subway line was recently opened to suburbs in the east, with further expansion planned. Public transportation is used by many people for getting to work and to recreational and social activities; however, a car is still extremely useful.

In winter, main roads are kept open, but winter driving, even in Helsinki and its outskirts, can be hazardous because of frequent icy conditions.

Communications

The government operates the domestic telegraph and most of the country's telephone facilities. Direct dialing is available to many foreign locations, including the U.S. In Helsinki to contact emergency systems, dial 000. A privately owned telegraph cable extends between Sweden and Finland, and nearly all cable communications to overseas destinations are transmitted by this route. International airmail normally takes five days in transit from Helsinki to New York. Postal rates are expensive.

Broadcasting is done by Oy Yleisradio Ab, the Finnish Broadcasting Company, and by MTV Oy, an independent commercial company. Yleisradio, however, is the only licensed corporation. A fair selection of musical programs is available throughout the day on Finnish AM and FM radio. Many radio channels can be received from other European countries. Good Voice of America (VOA) and British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) reception is possible with a shortwave radio.

Television channels operate during the afternoon and evening hours. Some foreign programs (including American, British, and Canadian) are offered in the original language with Finnish or Swedish subtitles. Finnish TV, which broadcasts mostly color programs, has the same technical standards as Germany. Private cable service, offering a wide selection of movies and serials, is available at various locations within the city of Helsinki.

The first Finnish newspaper was printed in 1771. Now, more than 300 papers are published at least four times each week. Ten newspapers are regarded as national dailies, although none of these has a truly nationwide coverage.

Time, Newsweek, The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, and the International Herald Tribune are sold locally, although the Herald Tribune usually arrives one or two days after publication. English-language books and magazines are sold at Helsinki's main train station, in lobbies of larger hotels, and at the city's two principal bookstores. A good selection of other foreign-language books and magazines can also be found at the two main bookstores—standard works in Swedish, French, Italian, German, and Spanish. All imported publications are more expensive than in the country of origin.

Health

The standards of the Finnish medical profession are high. Most physicians are educated at the University of Helsinki, and many study or do research abroad as well. A large number of doctors speak English and German, in addition to Finnish and Swedish. Specialists in most medical fields serve the major communities.

Hospitals are modern and well equipped, and the treatment is good. Ophthalmologists are available and opticians can fill prescriptions promptly. Dentists and orthodontists are competent. A listing of area hospitals and doctors is available from the U.S. Embassy's administrative section in Helsinki.

Most medicines are available locally at reasonable, state-controlled prices. They may not, however, be the same compositions or brand names prescribed by U.S. physicians. Those planning an extended stay should arrive with a supply of necessary medications; this will allow time to consult with a doctor to determine the proper Finnish equivalent. Medicine is sold only at pharmacies ("aptee KKi"), while chemists ("Kemikaalikauppa") sell cosmetics only. Some pharmacies are open 24 hours and all pharmacies display a notice in their windows with the address of the nearest pharmacy on night duty.

The general level of community sanitation is high. Public cleanliness and controls are adequate to prevent serious outbreaks of disease, and there are no pest or vermin problems. Helsinki water is dependable, but not fluoridated; fluoride tablets for children can be obtained locally. Pasteurized milk is available, and the processing of fresh milk is closely controlled. The general sanitation and safety of local goods are comparable to those in the U.S. Sewage and garbage arrangements are excellent.

Helsinki's winter climate is cold and damp and may aggravate conditions such as neuralgia, rheumatism, and sinus disorders. Since long periods pass without much sunshine, vitamins are strongly recommended.

Clothing and Services

In preparing a wardrobe for Finland, one should remember that winters are long and cold, springs and autumns are rainy and cool, and summers are short. Layered outfits are ideal for differences in seasonal temperatures, as well as for changes from indoors to outdoors. All clothing items can be purchased locally at prices which tend to be higher than in the U.S.; good sales occur during January and August, and it is worthwhile to shop at these times. Winter outer-garments and boots for all family members are well made, ideally suited to the climate, and generally worth the extra expense. Those who are difficult to fit in respect to shoe size or other wearing apparel are advised to bring extra items from home.

Men wear medium-weight suits throughout the year in Finland but, from October to May, heavier suits are often needed. Rain gear, overcoats, boots, and overshoes are necessary items, and fur hats are found to be very warm as well as popular locally. Tuxedos are appropriate for many social occasions during the year. "Informal" on a dinner invitation usually means coat and tie.

A useful wardrobe for a woman will include one long dress or skirt; several short dinner dresses; sports attire; and suits, casual dresses or skirts, sweaters, and blouses. Rain gear and heavy winter coats are needed also. Beautiful fur and leather coats are available locally.

Children's needs include warm, water-resistant snowsuits and boots, and lighter-weight coats and jackets for spring and fall. Rubber overalls, readily purchased in local department stores, are useful during both rainy and thawing periods. It may be advisable to have an extra set of outdoor clothes for children who actively participate in winter sports.

Laundry and dry cleaning are expensive, making it advisable to include cleaning compounds for spot removals in one's household effects. Certain neighborhood dry cleaners offer kilo pesu, or cleaning of items with the charge based on weight; these items are not steam pressed.

Local and European brands of toiletries, cosmetics, and patent medicines are available, but costly.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Helsinki is served by daily flights from many European cities, and Finnair flies from New York, Los Angeles, Miami, and Tampa. Northwest Airlines serves Stockholm, Sweden and, from there, the traveler has the option of taking the ferry boat to Helsinki.

Visas are not necessary for entry into Finland, but those planning to stay for more than 90 days must obtain residence permits after arrival. No inoculation certificates are required.

Dogs and cats can be imported to Finland; however, they must be vaccinated against rabies. A certificate issued by a veterinarian must state that the animal has been vaccinated at least 30 days and not more than 12 months prior to importation. Cats and dogs imported to Finland cannot be taken to Sweden or Norway without a quarantine period of four months in either country.

Only nonautomatic sport and hunting firearms may be imported, and local requirements for hunting licenses are handled by the police. No military or police-type firearms are permitted. Fishing licenses also are required.

Many religious affiliations are represented in Helsinki. Services in English are offered on a weekly basis by the Anglican Church at the Cathedral Chapel, Saalem Free Gospel Church, and the Tempeliaukio Lutheran Church; St. Henrik's Catholic Church offers English services two Sundays a month. Other places of worship include: Uspensky Russian Orthodox Cathedral; two churches of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints; Helsinki's synagogue; and Islam House.

The time in Finland is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus two.

The markka, or Finnmark (FIM), ceased being legal currency on 1 March 2002, and was replaced by the euro. One euro is equivalent to US$1.08 (22 May 2002).

Finland uses the metric system of weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1…New Year's Day

Jan. 6…Epiphany

Mar/Apr.…Good Friday^*

Mar/Apr.…Easter^*

Mar/Apr.…Easter Monday^*

May 1…May Day

May…Mother's Day^*

May/June…Ascension Day^*

May/June…Whitsun Eve^*

May/June…Whitsunday^*

June…Midsummer's Eve^*

June…Midsummer's Day^*

June…Father's Day^*

Nov. 1…All Saints' Day

Dec. 6…Independence Day

Dec. 24…Christmas Eve

Dec. 25…Christmas Day

Dec. 26…Boxing Day

^*variable

RECOMMENDED READING

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Engman, Max, and David Kirby, eds. Finland: People, Nation, State. Bloomington: Indian University Press, 1989.

Finland Handbook. VADK-Publishing and the Finnish Tourist Board, annually.

Frommer's Scandinavia. New York:Frommer, latest edition.

Jarvinen, I.R. Contemporary Folklore & Culture Change. Philadelphia: Coronet Books, 1986.

Nordstrom, Byron J., ed. Dictionary of Scandinavian History. Westport, CT: Greenwood, 1986.

Penttila, Risto E. Finland's Search for Security Through Defense, 1944-1989. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1991.

Rajanen, Aini. Of Finnish Ways. New York: Harper Collins, 1984.

Singleton, Fred. A Short History of Finland. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1990.

Ward, Philip. Finnish Cities: Travels in Helsinki, Turku, Tampere & Lapland. New York: Oleander Press, 1987.