Palau

PALAU

Republic of Palau

Major City:
Koror

INTRODUCTION

Some areas of PALAU were settled in 1000 BC or even earlier, likely by Malays from Indonesia, Melanesians from New Guinea, and by some Polynesians. Spain, Portugal, and England all laid claim to the islands at various times. In 1783 the English vessel Antelope, under the command of Captain Henry Wilson, was shipwrecked on one of the Rock Islands between Koror and Peleliu. With the help of the Koror high chief Ibedul, Wilson and his crew stayed for three months to rebuild the ship. Afterwards, more foreign explorers sailed through Palauan waters and the islands were open to further European contact. Germany acquired the islands around the beginning of the 20th century and then handed them over to Japan. After the defeat of Japan in World War II, the US took control over what were then called the Marshall, Caroline and Marianas Islands. The islands became part of the United Nations' Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, with Palau administered as one of the three island groups' six districts. Palau became independent with the ratification of a Compact of Free Association with the United States that came into effect on October 1, 1994.

MAJOR CITY

Koror

Koror, on Koror Island, is the capital of Palau and has a population of about 12,000. Most Palauans and nearly 90% of Palau's 2,800 foreign residents live in Koror. The island of Koror covers only 3.5 square miles and is the center of commerce with most of the country's hotels, shops, and eating establishments. There is an ongoing migration to the capital city. A two-lane concrete bridge links Koror with the large island of Babeldaob (Babelthuap). The Koror state government provides public bus service. Beyond Koror the main road is paved up to the airport with coral and dirt roads connecting the other states. Palau's only deepwater harbor is at Malakal in Koror, and the international airport is 6 miles from the capital. Koror's economy is driven by tourism, particularly for Palau's scuba diving and snorkeling opportunities. A new capital is under construction in eastern Babeldaob, about 12 miles northeast of Koror.

Recreation and Entertainment

Palau has some of the world's most impressive dive sites, with miles of unexplored barrier reefs. The waters provide many spectacular vertical drops, especially along the Rock Islands. Snorkeling, sea kayaking, sailing, and fishing are also popular. Blue holes, underwater caves, World War II wrecks, and diverse marine life attract tourists. Jellyfish Lake is an inland marine lake that is cut off from the rest of the ocean. The lake teems with jellyfish, and snorkelers can swim among them because they have no sting.

Tropical forests cover much of the islands, and other areas have mangrove forests and even grassland savannas. Palau has 50 species of resident birds, and the marine waters have over 1,500 species of fish and over 700 species of coral and anemones. There are also saltwater crocodiles, giant clams, and dugongs (closely related to the manatee).

Ancient village sites on the Rock Islands and the grand terraces on nearby Babeldaob date to 1000 BC. Babeldaob is Palau's biggest island, some 27 miles long and 15 miles across at its widest and it is covered in dense foliage. The terrain is varied with steep mountains, freshwater lakes, and sand dunes. There are 37 stone monoliths known as badrulchau that testify to the island's early civilization. Other remnants of Palau's early history are located at Imeungs in the southwest of the island. The ruins of stone foundations and pillars are all that remain of the ancient community.

During World War II, fighting between US and Japanese forces took place on Koror, as well as on the nearby islands of Peleiu and Angaur. Peleliu is the southernmost of the Rock Islands, and in 1985 it was designated a US National Historic Landmark. Abandoned tanks, helmets, and bomb casings are still strewn about the island.

The Palau National Museum has over 1,000 relics from the islands' past, including shell money and traditional weapons. Traditional Palauan culture is noted for its intricately carved wooden storyboards and delicate weavings. The bai or public meeting center, offers insights into traditional Palauan society through the painted carvings that tell a story on interior posts, beams, and gable ends. Palauan culture today has a blend of traditional, Japanese, and American influences. Koror has several open-air cocktail lounges, some offering live entertainment or karaoke.

Koror annually hosts several festivals and special events. The Youth Day Fair on March 15 features open-air concerts and sports competitions. The Palau Sport Fishing Association holds its annual fishing derby during the last week in April or the first week in May. Senior Citizens' Day on May 5 features dance competitions, handicrafts exhibitions, parades, and floats. The Palau Arts Festival falls on July 9, Constitution Day. There are also Independence Day celebrations on October 1. The third week in November is Tourism Awareness Week.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

The Republic of Palau is a scattered group of islands in the westernmost part of Micronesia. The country's territory includes some 340 islands east of the Philippines that stretch out over an area 125 miles in length. The total land area of the islands is 170 square miles. Babeldaob, the largest island, covers 153 square miles.

Palau's islands include four topographic types: volcanic, high limestone, low platform, and coral atoll. The Palau barrier reef encloses a lagoon on the western side that contains a large number of small elevated limestone islets known as the Rock Islands. Babeldaob and Koror have the highest elevations, at 713 feet and 2,061 feet, respectively. Several northern islands, such as Arakabesan and Malakal, are volcanic formations. There are tall mountains, lush and thick jungles, caves, waterfalls, spacious beaches, and rocky shores. The waters are clear enough in some places to see depths of 300 feet.

Palau has a maritime tropical climate, with little temperature variation by season or time of day. The average temperature is 82° F during the cooler months. High humidity and heavy precipitation occur throughout the year. The heaviest rainfalls occur between May and January. Typhoons and tropical storms occur from July through November.

Population

Palau has a population of about 19,000. The states of Koror and Airai contain about 80% of the population.

Most Palauans are Micronesian, with a mixed Polynesian, Malayan, and Melanesian background. About 10% of the population is Filipino. There are also smaller numbers of other Micronesians, Chinese, and people of European descent.

Most of the population is Christian (Catholics, Seventh-Day Adventists, Jehovah's Witnesses, the Assembly of God, the Liebenzell Mission, and Latter-Day Saints). About one-third of the population observes the Modekngei religion that is indigenous to Palau.

English is the official language in all of Palau's sixteen states. Palauan is also an official language in thirteen states. Sonsorolese is an official language in the state of Sonsoral, as is Tobi in the state of Tobi. Angaur and Japanese are also spoken in the state of Anguar.

Government

Palauan villages were and still are ordered around 10 clans that are organized matrilineally. Once, a council of chiefs from the 10 ranking clans governed the villages, and a parallel council of their female counterparts held a significant advisory role in the division and control of land and money.

In 1978 Palau opted for a separate negotiation with the US regarding future political status, due to the expiration of the UN Trusteeship. On July 9, 1980, the Palau constitution was ratified, and its first constitutional elections were held.

Independence came on October 1, 1994 with the entry into force of the Compact of Free Association with the United States. Palau was the last Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands territories to gain its independence. Under the Compact, the U.S. will remain responsible for Palau's defense for 50 years. Otherwise, Palau is a sovereign nation and conducts its own foreign relations. Since independence, Palau has established diplomatic relations with a number of nations, including many of its Pacific neighbors. Palau was admitted to the United Nations on December 15, 1994, and has since joined several other international organizations.

Today, Palau is a democratic republic with directly elected executive and legislative branches. Presidential elections take place every four years, with the presidential and vice-presidential candidates running on separate tickets.

The Palau National Congress (Olbiil era Kelulau) has two houses. In the Senate there are nine members elected through a nationwide vote. In the House of Delegates there are 16 members, one chosen from each of Palau's 16 states. All of the legislators serve four-year terms. Each state also elects its own governor and legislature.

In keeping with tradition, Palau has established a Council of Chiefs as an advisory body to the president. The Council is made up of the highest traditional chiefs from each of the 16 states. The Council is consulted on matters concerning traditional laws and customs.

The judicial system consists of the Supreme Court, National Court, the Court of Common Pleas, and the Land Court. The Supreme Court has trial and appellate divisions and is presided over by the Chief Justice.

Palau's flag is a yellow circle on a light blue field. The circle is slightly off center toward the hoist.

Arts, Science, Education

Elementary education is compulsory between the ages of six and fourteen and is provided by the government. The Palau High School in Koror is the country's only public high school and accounts for about two-thirds of secondary school enrollment. Postsecondary education is provided by the College of Micronesia's Micronesian Occupational College in Koror.

Commerce and Industry

Tourism is Palau's main industry, accounting for roughly half of the nations GDP. The greatest attractions to the country are scuba diving and snorkeling among the islands' rich marine environment, including the Floating Garden Islands to the west of Koror. In 1997, the number of visitors was about 67,000, almost three times the actual population of Palau. The greatest number of tourists come from Japan, Taiwan, and the U.S.

Agriculture is mainly on a subsistence level, the principal crops being coconuts, root crops, and bananas. Tuna fishing is also potential source of revenue.

Construction is the most important industrial activity, contributing over 9% of GDP. Several large infrastructure projects, including the rebuilding of the bridge connecting Koror and Babeldaob Islands after its collapse in 1996 and the construction of a highway around the rim of Babeldaob, boosted activity at the end of 1990s.

The government alone employs nearly 30% of workers. One of the government's main responsibilities is administering external assistance. Under the terms of the Compact of Free Association with the United States, Palau will receive more than $450 million in assistance over 15 years. The first grant of $142 million was made in 1994. Further annual payments in lesser

For such a small nation, the general economy does fairly well. Per capita GDP stands at over $7,000 (1998 est.), which makes it one of the wealthier states in the Pacific Islands. However, the country is heavily reliant on imported foods, fuel, and machinery. Imports in 1999 totaled about $126 million, whereas exports only brought in about $14 million.

The remaining economic challenge confronting Palau is to ensure the long-term viability of its economy by reducing its reliance on foreign assistance.

Transportation

Continental Micronesia flies to Palau daily via Guam, the international air service hub for the Micronesia region. There are also three weekly flights to Manila, Philippines. The only asphalt roads are on Koror, Airai, and Melekeok. Palauans rely on small private watercraft for transportation throughout the country.

Side roads in Koror and on the Island of Babeldaop are in poor condition. Maximum speed limit is 25 miles per hour, but slower in congested areas, and passing of slow moving vehicles is prohibited.

Communications

Worldwide telephone, facsimile, telex, IDD, Internet/e-mail service, and operator-assisted dialing services are available. Phone cards are available at PNCC Office and calls can be made from most hotels in Palau.

WSZB is Koror's AM radio station, and there are also two FM stations. Island Cable TV Palau provides 12 channels, including CNN.

Tia Belau is the bi-weekly local newspaper. The government produces the Palau Gazette. The Pacific Daily News is delivered daily from Guam. Mail to and from Palau uses standard U.S. postal rates and postage.

Health and Medicine

Hospital services are provided by the 60-bed MacDonald Memorial Hospital in Koror. Koror also has the Belau Medical Clinic and the Seventh-Day Adventist Eye Clinic. Smallpox immunization is required for travelers not originating in the U. S. or its territories. Cholera and yellow fever immunizations are required for those arriving from infected areas.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

A valid passport or proof of U.S. citizenship and onward/return ticket for a stay up to 30 days are required. A visa is required for stays longer than 30 days. The necessary forms for obtaining an entry permit can be obtained from airline or shipping agency servicing Palau. For more information about entry requirements of Palau, travelers may consult with the Representative Office, 1150 18th St., N.W., Suite 750, Washington, DC 20036, (202) 452-6814.

U.S. citizens living in or visiting Palau are encouraged to register at the U.S. Embassy. They may also obtain updated information on travel and security within the country at the Embassy. The U.S. Embassy is located in Koror, Palau. There is no street address. The Embassy is located in an area known as Topside, about one and one quarter miles north of the post office and downtown area of Koror on the main road towards the airport. The mailing address of the U.S. Embassy is: P.O. Box 6028, Koror, Palau 96940. The telephone number is (680) 488-2920. The fax number is (680) 488-2911. The Embassy does not issue passports; that function is performed by the Honolulu Passport Agency.

Firearms & Ammunitions

Firearms of any kind are strictly prohibited in Palau. The penalty for possession of a firearm or ammunition is up to fifteen years imprisonment.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1 … New Year's Day

Jan. 9 … Martyrs' Day

Mar. 15 … Youth Day

May 6 … Senior Citizens' Day

May 31 … President's Day

July 9 … Constitution Day

Oct. 1… Independence Day

Oct.24 … UN Day

Dec. 25 … Christmas Day

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RECOMMENDED READING

Roff, Sue Rabbitt. Overreaching in Paradise: United States Policy in Palau Since 1945. Juneau, AK: Denali Press, 1991.