Collards and codfish

The Village Voice | April 23, 1996| | Copyright

I first glimpsed this spot from the window of a whizzing taxi. All I could get was the first part of the name--Sapodilla. An intense but fruitless few minutes with NYNEX complicated the issue by suggesting that such a place did not exist. Only a return reconnoiter revealed the full name of this small Myrtle Avenue establishment: Sapodilla Cafe. Located in an unlikely Clinton Hill block with only is green awning and its sidewalk chalkboard to distinguish it from the surrounding dry cleaners and law offices, it is a harbinger of the black gentrification gradually reclaiming the neighborhood. A ...

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