Herring still for tea?

The Spectator | August 21, 2004| | Copyright

Food for thought

'Jack likes a herring for his tea,' I remember, years ago, our gardener's wife used to say. That was before herring stocks crashed in the 1970s and the fishery was closed for several years. Herring gradually returned to the North Sea, but a lot of people, like Jack, had by then found something else to satisfy their appetites after work. It may be hard for many of us to remember how popular this fish used to be. Fifty years ago there were books devoted to the herring, and in Jane Grigson's invaluable work, Fish Cookery, first published in 1973, herring recipes take up a page ...

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