Comely Comestibles; Loie's beauteous food trumps its uninspired decor.

Philadelphia Weekly | April 23, 2003| | Copyright

As fate would have it, I was in the Penn library a few hours before I was scheduled to meet folks at Loie, Avram Hornik's new Rittenhouse bistro, when, while flipping through a dance encyclopedia in search of "flamenco," I inadvertently landed on an entry titled "Fuller, Loie."

How synchronous, for I already knew that Fuller--a Chicago-born free spirit who became the toast of turn-of-the-last-century Paris as a modern dancer and stage lighting innovator--was Hornik's inspiration. What I didn't know until I stumbled upon her picture was just how homely she was. How did this short, pudgy little ...

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