Wind from the East; French-California with a whiff of Japanese makes a tasty fusion.

From: Coast weekly | Date: June 18, 2003| Author: | Copyright information

I mourned the recent passing of Chopsticks, a hole-in-the-wall, more-or-less Asian diner/resto on Forest Avenue that served inexpensive stir-fried lunches and donburi bowls.

But in true cloud-with-a-silver-lining fashion, chef Max Muramatsu stepped into the breach and, on May 1, opened Max's Grill. He hasn't changed the decor significantly--it's still desperately minimalist, and that's a fancy euphemism--but the food is simply sublime. More than that, it's interesting, and in the best possible way: It is clear, with every dish, that someone in the kitchen is evaluating every ingredient, every ...

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