Restaurants as theatre: Fish

From: The Spectator | Date: May 22, 1999| Author: | Copyright information

`FISH is the last great wild food resource,' says the menu at Fish! `So why are we eating it all up?' I asked the nubile German waitress. `Fish iz ze new meat,' she said even more cryptically and smiled sweetly. I went back to studying the menu: `Choose your own tuna, monkfish, sea bass, John Dory.' I suddenly felt guilty at the thought that I might be devouring a rare wild John Dory when a domestic cow would do. But fish is all there is at this new establishment.

I had high hopes of Fish! despite the exclamation mark. The owners, Tony Allan and Ronnie Truss, have already established ...

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