NEW DELHI, India, June 30 -- There have been three broad phases in the development of Chinese food in India. The first (and if you've seen the TV show, you can skip this para) consisted of variations on Cantonese.

The second began in the mid-Seventies after the introduction of Sichuan food to India at Bombay's The Golden Dragon and Delhi's House of Ming. The third followed on from the Sichuan menu and consisted of masalafied Indian Chinese of the sort you got at every second dhabha or roadside stall.

I suspect that we are now about to enter a fourth phase. At some stage, this summer, Delhi's ...

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