Picture perfect in Provence Adrian Woodford planned to follow the Van Gogh trail round Arles, but was seduced instead by its gorgeous light and Roman ruins

The Sunday Telegraph London | April 30, 2006| | Copyright

I looked from the page to the view in front of me and back down to the page. This was the place, all right. Every detail of Van Gogh's painting was there - even the leaves seemed to dance in the wind the way they had done more than a century before.

My dog-eared edition of Van Gogh in Arles was open at a painting of the tree-lined avenue of the Alyscamps Cemetery. I was standing at one end of what was once the most desirable burial spot in Europe, Provence's very own Elysian Fields.

Anyone who could afford to had their body shipped down the Rhne, to be met by monks who would scrag their bodies ...

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