Weekend to remember Aries Marsh mellow Arles Adrian Woodford is entranced by this laid-back ancient town at the gateway to the Camargue delta

The Sunday Telegraph London | October 3, 2004| | Copyright

After leaving London on a chilly afternoon, I'm whisked through the French countryside in the air-conditioned carriage of a TGV. So I'm totally unprepared for the gust of warm air that slaps me in the face as the train doors open onto a Provencal evening.

It's late, but I'm energised by my new surroundings, and a little thirsty. So after dumping my bags at the hotel, I stroll out into the night for a first look round my base for the next two days: Arles, capital of the slice of Empire the Romans named ``the Province''.

A few minutes later and I'm at a cafe in the Place du Forum, the hub of ...

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