Western visitors to Goa have long been drawn to its beaches and bars. But those with an interest in colonial history, architecture and priceless artifacts should venture a little inland when next in this former Portuguese enclave. Remnants of the Portuguese are everywhere - not surprisingly, since Goa was ruled from Lisbon until 1961.

As you drive along potholed roads past lush rice paddies and jungle-covered hillsides, ancient churches and chapels pop up in the clearings like relics of some Catholic Shangri-la. Old Goa, the 16th- century Portuguese capital on the Mandovi River, once rivalled ...

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