Early horseman catches the worm

From: The Sunday Telegraph London | Date: January 20, 2002| Author: | Copyright information

My guide's finger jabbed the air and I followed his gaze to a group of rocks jutting out of the shimmering, turquoise water. "That is where the Rato look for the nyale, or sea worms," said Johnny. "The priests will search the sand for an hour before sunrise and if there are plenty it means the Pasola will be good. But if there are no worms then there will be trouble."

Johnny and I were standing on a very white beach on the Indonesian island of Sumba watched by a handful of curious children lolling around the outrigger canoes. I had come to see the Pasola, a great ritual battle fought on ...

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