Back into the frying pan

From: The Boston Globe | Date: June 25, 1997| Author: Alison Arnett, Globe Staff | Copyright information

Psst! Don't look now, but frying is back. For years it was the bete noire of cooking, associated with fast food and greasy clam shacks, never with fine dining.

But at one recent dinner, I bit into a fried oyster and mused on how delicious it was -- the crunch hitting the teeth, the sea taste of the oyster exquisitely preserved by its quick brush with hot oil. And I recalled how many times lately I'd seen similar dishes or garnishes on menus: fried squid, pan-fried soft-shell crabs or ...

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