At Mrs. Wilkes': Bring on the food! She serves, chicken, bisquits, cornbread, okra, beets, yams and much more

The Boston Globe | June 12, 1994| | Copyright

SAVANNAH, Ga. -- Sema Wilkes, 86, and hardly your frail grandmotherly type, is a legend in the Low Country. The proprietor for 40 years of Mrs. Wilkes' Boarding House on West Jones Street, she still reigns over every meal served. In a flowery apron, she positions herself in the main dining room of the 1870 house as guests fill up the large, community tables. When all 60 places are taken, she instructs her daughter, granddaughter, son-in-law, grandson-in-law and a host of grandchildren to bring on the food.

The guests look on in amazement as big platters of crisp, fried chicken, and plenty of ...

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