FIGS GET THEIR DAY IN THE SUN THIS ANCIENT FRUIT, PRIZED BY TH ROMANS, IS ENJOYING A BOOM

The Boston Globe | September 18, 2002| | Copyright

It's hard to pinpoint when it began to dawn. One early summer night, there was a fig stuffed with gorgonzola as part of a salad at Mill's Tavern in Providence and tea-braised figs sandwiched with foie gras. The memory sticks in my mind.

At Sage in the North End, the chef and owner, Anthony Susi, created a fig risotto with a rosy glow; it looked a little odd but it tasted wonderful. Figs festoon desserts at Tea Tray in the Sky in Arlington and are poached in wine at Taberna de Haro in Brookline.

Then samples, sent by manufacturers, started drifting into the office - fig jam and fig spread, fig ...

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