Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema's monthly report from the road.; The chefs of Spain are blazing heady trails for their peers around the world, as I discovered on recent dining tours of the country. Some of the role models in Madrid include these three venues:

From: The Washington Post | Date: July 3, 2005 | Copyright information

LA BROCHE (Miguel Angel 29, 011-34-91-3993-437)

Dining in this stark, all-white, fashion-conscious restaurant means a stool for your purse, a choice of luxe olive oils and salts for your bread, and petit fours that would look at home at a circus. An acolyte of Spanish cooking wizard Ferran Adria, chef Sergi Arola combines novelty with good taste. Hazelnut foam with asparagus jelly, for instance, translates into a "salad" of distinction. Entrees $25- $55.

NEO (Quintana 30, 011-34-...

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