Burgundy: the chance of a decade

Evening Standard - London | January 16, 2001| | Copyright

HIS excitement was unfeigned - and unexpected. Three or four of us were standing in the moist stone cellar of one of the greatest white- wine producers in Burgundy, and all he wanted us to taste were his new red wines.

This was a mere month or two after the 1999 vintage. "That's what I'm looking for," said Dominique Lafon triumphantly, glass in hand, his smile less mischievous than usual. "This is the most beautiful year for reds that I've made.

There's that energy in the wine, that vividness." The wines did, indeed, have a kind of warm glow at their core which surprised me, too. So often ...

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