Booking the cooks MELANIE McDONAGH ON COOKERY BOOKS

From: The Evening Standard (London, England) | Date: December 20, 1999| Author: | Copyright information

PERSONALLY, I can take or leave the contemporary English novel and preferably leave but cookery books are another matter. It is here that the real genius of this generation resides. Under the guise of cookery writing you get autobiography, environmentalism, cultural history, and the most lascivious photography. You purchase cookery books notionally for the recipes; in fact, you buy into the personality of the writer (One Fat Lady), the restaurant (Sally Clarke), social aspiration (Le Caprice), exotic foreign parts (Tamarind and Saffron), the supermarket (Delia) or the telly series (Gary ...

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