Food: Small is beautiful They may be petite, but their flavour is perfectly formed. Simon Hopkinson recommends three ways to cook spring chicken. Photographs by Jason Lowe

The Independent - London | October 6, 2001| | Copyright

Question: which came first, the diminutive French chicken especially reared for the table, or the 17th-century French classical painter? Even though I studied and enjoyed art at school (I achieved my highest O-level grade in that subject, in fact), I'm afraid that it was, for me, the word that described an iddy-biddy chicken which I first came to know well. Oh, quelle surprise, you might rightly exclaim. But then, an appreciation of great art can come late to some - especially when they have spent most of their early to late teens and early 20s obsessed with nothing else but that which ...

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