The Weasel: My shellfish love affair with the whelk

The Independent - London | June 23, 2001| | Copyright

I must apologise to any readers who found themselves unable to acquire their customary supply of whelks last week. The fact is that I was instrumental in cornering the English whelk market. This monopoly of molluscs resulted from a chance meeting I had with Fergus Henderson, chef-patron at the St John restaurant near Smithfield Market. His eatery has recently won a brace of awards for its robust English cuisine, including chitterlings in a bun (pounds 6), pressed veal tongue (pounds 6.20), dripping on toast (pounds 3.60) and roast bone marrow (pounds 5.90). Occasionally, I have also enjoyed a ...

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