Miracle of the desert This is where the Sahara and the Mediterranean touch and embrace. It is in Libya where the beauty of the Hellenic world meets the modern reality of Colonel Gaddafi

The Independent - London | October 14, 2000| | Copyright

Three lines of dragon's teeth had been pulled across the desert road, guarded by a squad of jeeps and their rear-mounted machine- guns. As we slowed to a halt, the guns swivelled around to face us.

The soldier in command was very young. With his shirt open to the navel and his camouflage turban flapping in the wind, he could have stepped straight from a fashion shoot. I smiled and murmured a polite Arabic greeting, but my normally cheerful Libyan guide and driver went very quiet. No one could understand the point of this new checkpoint. Only months later did I find out there had just been a ...

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