In Mali, Quietude Amid the Cacophony

The Washington Post | January 7, 2005| | Copyright

In the heart of this city of 1 million inhabitants, the ancient fetish market occupies a strategic position. It sits directly between the city's largest mosque, shrine for a population that is 90 percent Muslim, and the National Assembly, home of Mali's fragile democracy.

The fetish market is a mysterious place, powerfully symbolic of an Africa more ancient than electoral politics or even Islam.

Here there is nothing modern, other than the mobile phones of the witch doctors. This is a realm of magic. For sale are the skins of leopards, the heads of monkeys and potent spells.

The ...

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