The antique land where Mr Chips is king

The Independent - London | September 3, 1994| | Copyright

I rolled into Damascus in style in the back of a huge Sixties Dodge; plum-coloured leather inside, chrome and yellow paint on the outside. We had been whisked through the controls at the Jordanian border: it seemed the taxi driver knew the border guard. He spirited us through customs and then climbed into the front of the car for a lift to his home town. We pulled away, our boot bursting with watermelons, leaving groups of Daghestanis returning from Mecca praying in the dirt behind us. In the dusk all you could discern was the white cape of the haj fitting snugly over their heads, all ...

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