What could be more heartwarming at this gloomy time of year than the sight of something beautiful and Baroque? The very word conjures visions of hot, dusty streets and curvaceous church fronts, their niches filled with assorted saints and grimacing ghouls surmounted by the figure of the Virgin twirling her way up to heaven. It's a style of architecture which flourished across Europe after the Renaissance but its natural home is in the Catholic countries of the Mediterranean, where the candy-twist columns and other exaggerated details look their best in contrasts of bright light and deep ...

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