A.J. Liebling and his own sweet science

The Boston Globe | May 17, 2009 | Copyright

When the subject of A.J. Liebling comes up, people usually talk about his exuberant pieces on boxing. In fact, the only thing I like about boxing is Liebling's way of writing about it: his easy swing and occasional sesquipedalian pomp; his liberality in recording the pensees of its "pugilant heroes" and their followers; and his overall kindliness. Then people talk about Liebling's writing on food and his quests for the perfect specimen of one dish or another. Such missions plunge him into a different milieu, though it is one filled with its own set of quixotic characters and meditative sages. ...

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