Sunday Telegraph Travel: Follow that camel With 18 dromedaries, seven Mohammeds and a goat-hair tent, John Gimlette strikes out across the Sahara

The Sunday Telegraph London | March 5, 2000| | Copyright

The Hotel Zaafrane sits on the edge of a beach the size of the United States. The tide went out several million years ago and has never returned. Here, it's still remembered as a sea - or at least a sand sea, locally called an "erg".

Our little concrete rooms looked out on to the Grand Erg Oriental, better known to us as the Tunisian Sahara. Had we set out from reception and headed south in the summer, we would soon have encountered the world's highest temperatures -136 degrees Farenheit - and been chargrilled long before we reached Mali. But this was winter and, at night, our bottled water ...

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