Food and Drink: Eating Out: Waltz into Matilda Rather than another Australian west-London invasion, Matilda is a cheap-as-chips restaurant with style in abundance. But has it got the substance?

The Independent on Sunday | January 9, 2005| | Copyright

Matilda is a girl of contradictions. She is a relatively unreconstructed corner pub, but she has a very blingy chandelier. She has beautiful dark, wood floors, but cheap blond stools at the long, slow curve of bar. She lies in turning-hip Battersea Bridge Road, within a corset throw of Vivienne Westwood's studio and Sir Norman Foster's Albion building, but she attracts Notting Hill matrons in Alice bands and pearls. She has a menu written in Italian but waiters who don't seem to understand a word of it. She has a chef who has cooked with high-fliers such as Giorgio Locatelli and Jamie Oliver, ...

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