The big trip: WATCH THE BIRDIE Braving leeches and watersnakes, Stephanie Debere heads into a vast Zambian swamp to see the giant shoebill, one of the most extraordinary creatures on earth

The Independent on Sunday | May 23, 2004| | Copyright

`It is not all pleasure, this exploration," wrote David Livingstone in 1873, hopelessly lost and dying in Zambia's seemingly endless Bangweulu Swamps. After several hours' wading thigh-deep through rotting reeds and mulchy water, I was inclined to agree - although Patson, our irrepressibly enthusiastic guide, was not.

We had come to see Africa's most sought-after bird, the huge, rare and prehistoric-looking shoebill stork, which is found only in a few inaccessible spots between southern Sudan and northern Zambia. Up to 1.4m tall, very like the dodo, the shoebill is so called because its ...

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