L'Espalier's design challenge: How to be modern yet cozy

The Boston Globe | July 17, 2008| | Copyright

L'Espalier chef and proprietor Frank McClelland knows people think the heat of the kitchen may be affecting more than his roasted rabbit and grilled hanger steak. On a recent muggy afternoon, he surveys what will soon be the new L'Espalier in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on Boylston Street. It's a sprawling, blank canvas that - at least at the moment - feels nothing like the cherished L'Espalier that's been operating out of a Back Bay townhouse since 1982.

McClelland's sanity has been called into question by family members and friends because he is moving L'Espalier out of the charming, petite ...

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