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On Learning to Eat excerpted from Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris (C 1959,1986 by A.J. Liebling. Published by North Point Press and Reprinted by permission)
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The primary requisite for writing well about food is a good
appetite. Without this, it is impossible to accumulate, within the
allotted span, enough experience of eating to have anything worth
setting down. Each day brings only two opportunities for field work,
and they are not to be wasted minimizing the intake of cholesterol.
They are indispensable, like a prizefighter's hours on the road. (I
have read that the late French professional gourmand Maurice
Curnonsky ate but one meal a day-dinner. But that was late in his
life, and I have always suspected his attainments anyway; so many ...
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