The Airs of Cologne: Discovering the Past In the Present

The Washington Post | March 17, 1991| | Copyright

If every city has a miracle at its heart, the miracle of Cologne is the endurance of its Old World charms against unusual odds.

Occupied consecutively by Romans, French and Prussians, almost completely flattened in World War II, nearly smothered by the burgeoning industrial sprawl of central German cities, it nevertheless remains one of the richest strongholds of Old German culture.

For the traveler who likes to wade head first into the history and tradition of far-off places, Cologne could hardly offer more: ruins that date back two millenniums, a towering cathedral that took more than ...

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