Portugal, Plain & Simple; In the Northern Reaches, An Architectural Odyssey

The Washington Post | October 4, 1992| | Copyright

I was driving through northern Portugal, but I kept "The Road to Oxiana," Robert Byron's classic 1936 account of his travels around Persian architectural monuments, on the dashboard. The book nearly obscured my view and made a phantom landscape of the arid, terraced hills that the Renault and I were attempting to climb, past rows of low-grown grapevines and olive trees in bleached greens.

So far in my reading, Byron had gotten dysentery, lost the axle to his car and accidentally dyed his mustache green, instead of black, as part of an Islamic disguise necessary for getting a look at a ...

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