Karan, Donna 1948-

Donna Karan
1948-

FAshion Designer

Beginnings

Donna Karan was literally born into the world of fashion in 1948. Her father was a tailor and her mother a model and showroom representative. She designed her first collection in high school. Karan attended the Parson's School of Design, but dropped out after her second year to join Anne Klein. She was fired nine months later and went to work for another sports-wear house. She returned to Klein in 1968, however, and became an associate designer in 1971. When Karan was named head designer in 1973 she asked her school friend Louis Dell'Olio to join her as co-designer. Together, they created a classic, yet stylish, sportswear look. Her early training and connections helped in forming her own company. Karan and her husband, Stephan Weiss, founded Donna Karan New York in 1984; Klein's parent company, Takihyo Corporation, backed the new firm. By the end of the 1990s, Karan was one of the leading designers in the United States.

Clothes that Hug and Hide

Karan's first collection was based on body-conscious wear: a body suit to be worn with long or short skirts, blouses, and pants. Well-tailored coats and bold accessories completed the wardrobe, which from the beginning were made of luxurious materials. Karan, who often wore layers of black cashmere, designed her clothes and accessories based on what she herself would wear. She also created designs that flattered the women, so her clothes worked as well on a size four as they did on a size ten. Her corporate philosophy was that clothes should be designed to hug a woman but also hide her imperfections. Karan believed that clothes should be easily transferred from day to evening and summer to winter. As a result, her trade-mark items became bodysuits, unitards, black cashmere, and stretch fabric. She also paid particular attention to fabric and cut. The look she created was powerful, urban, and professional with elements of sensuality.

Expanding Business

Donna Karan New York expanded dramatically during the decade, adding in 1991 the DKNY menswear collection, which became known for its comfort and sensuality, as had her women's collections. Karan founded Donna Karan Beauty Company, a fragrance and cosmetic division, in 1992. Also in 1992 Karan established a lingerie line, as well as DKNY Kids. Company revenues, which were $119 million in 1989, reached $268 million in 1992. Karan took the company public in June 1996, where the stock debuted at $26 a share. Karan's divisions also allowed the company to offer several price ranges. Her top-of-the-line selections were pricey, with a woman's pants suit costing $650, a woman's blazer costing $1,100 and a man's wool crepe suit costing $1,350. The DKNY division, however, was priced somewhat lower: a woman's wool blazer cost $450. In October 1999, Donna Karan International Inc. and Liz Claiborne Inc. announced a deal that would allow Liz Claiborne to license Karan's name to make a new line of women's casual clothing at department-store prices. The line was expected to debut in the spring of 2001. Karan said the agreement allowed her company to reach a broader consumer base. Even without the new line, her company by the end of the 1990s was designing a large selection of merchandise, including clothes, lingerie, sleepwear, loungewear, handbags, jewelry, scarves, belts, hosiery, shoes, and sunglasses.

Sources:

Kevin Almond, "Karan, Donna," in Contemporary Fashion, edited by Richard Martin (New York: St. James Press, 1995), pp. 267-270.

The Fashion Book (London: Phaidon, 1998), p. 241.

Betsy Israel, "Donna, The Collection," New York Times, 13 December 1992.

"Karan and Claiborne Reach Licensing Deal," NewYork Times, 15 October 1999.

Barbara Rudolph, "Donna Inc.," Time, 140 (30 November 1992): 54-57.

Anne Stegemeyer, Whos Who in Fashion (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1996), pp. 120-121.