Richness, quietness, pleasure. (Art).

New Criterion | February 1, 2003| | Copyright

Finding the modern French paintings at the Hermitage is not easy--and that's without taking into account the time and effort it takes to get to St. Petersburg. Once you get past the clogged entrance and the hostile babushka selling tickets, you have to follow a sporadic trail of easy-to-miss signs, negotiate a series of elaborately decorated state rooms and corridors, refuse to be waylaid by astonishing amounts of malachite, lapis lazuli, and colored marble, thread your way around clusters of multilingual visitors, locate a hard-to-find dingy back stair, and climb to the ...

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