Northern exposure: Svalbard is the most visited high arctic destination. Christian Amodeo discovers how the `land of the cold coasts' is handling the attention.(travel Norway)

Geographical | November 1, 2002| | Copyright

LONGYEARBYEN AIRPORT IS A PRIMITIVE building, in stark contrast to the swish contemporary affair at Oslo, some three hours due south on the Norwegian mainland. Svalbard has a frontier atmosphere, emphasised by a polar bear that awaits your arrival. Stuffed it may be, but with unfeasibly large claws and a plaque that states this hulking creature is merely a `small' specimen, I get the message loud and clear--I am in their neck of the woods now.

Or rather, I would be if there were any trees on Svalbard. Their absence and the clean cold are the first things I register. ...

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