This is the place," pronounced Brigham Young when he and his band of Mormon pioneers reached the site where they built Salt Lake City. But latter-day visitors to the heart of Utah's capital have not felt so compellingly attracted. There was Temple Square, of course-with the multispired, awe-inspiring structure for which it was named, as well as the renowned Tabernacle. And until it closed in 1987, the opulent, church-owned Hotel Utah across the street drew many visitors. Still, the ...