Today is the decennial census. At my living room table, below the picture of Melina Mercouri, sits the census-taker. He is a young man, tired, sleepy, perhaps uncertain why he and thousands of others took on the task. "Didn't want to start too early," he told me when I asked if he would finish his allotment before the sun went down. "Otherwise everybody would throw lemon rinds at us."
I informed him of the facts: born in America, moved to Greece in 1994 to write, and (check two ...