LIBENGE, Congo _ The trip down the Ubangi River to the battle-torn town of Dongo was supposed to be a mere two-hour cruise.

Had we bothered to look more closely at a map and measure the 100-mile distance, we would have been known better. And we'd have been better prepared for two nights sleeping on the slippery bottom of a leaky boat, served up as dinner for mosquitoes.

But we departed on the Ubangi in great spirits on a balmy evening as the sun set and a nearly full moon rose, silhouetting the majestic trees that form a solid barrier along the Ubangi's ...

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