Peace seems far away for Kashmiri villagers - Trek to holy Hindu cave leads pilgrims into danger.

From: The Boston Herald | Date: September 1, 1998| Author: Crittenden, Jules | Copyright information

CHANDANWARI, INDIAN-HELD KASHMIR - At 9,500 feet, where a tributary of the Jhelum gushes out of last winter's dirty snowpack, the Hindu faithful lined up in the crisp mountain air to get frisked.

Making their way up the trail in the thousands - rich and poor together; nearly naked holy men smeared with ashes; old people in makeshift litter chairs; young children on bony horses - all joyously sang in praise of Shiva.

"Bam! Bam!" they chanted.

"Bolay...

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