Provence's next-door neighbor: on a trip through the Languedoc wine region, in southern France, a writer falls for the culture, the cuisine and the lack of crowds.(TRAVELER'S NOTEBOOK) Town & Country | July 1, 2007| | COPYRIGHT 2007 Hearst Communications, reprinted with permission of Hearst. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information) Copyright

STEAK TARTARE topped with fresh anchovies may not be everyone's ideal dish for a leisurely lunch in France, but in my case it was magical. The setting was a loft-like dining room with a lacquered concrete floor and a flower garden out back; only a stone archway reminded me that I was in a building dating from the 1800s. The beef was from a local farm, the anchovies had come from the Mediterranean that morning, and the odd combination, accented by lemon and deeply bitter arugula, was a wake-up call to the palate. This, I thought, is why people come to the south of France.

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