For most of the year, Temple Square in downtown Salt Lake City is synonymous with the Mormon Tabernacle Choir's Sunday morning broadcasts. But during the holidays, an unabashed festival of lights raises the music to new brilliance. This year, at 5:30 the evening after Thanksgiving, more than 300,000 tiny lights come aglow, winking and glittering on trees and shrubs, outlining the Assembly Hall's Gothic windows, illuminating a life-size creche, pointing up the historic Salt Lake Temple ...