LOOK, I'm not Hemingway, Marco Polo, or Lewis or bloody Clark. I don't kayak, hike, or bike, but I do know I'm not the only traveler in Mongolia to have gone through a moment of despair, regret (what was so wrong with Cancun anyway?), and panic. And why not? We were somewhere remote in the country that defines remote and our guide's "short cut" had more than a touch of the Donner Party about it.
Were those really vultures, dark, enormous, and optimistic, circling over our dusty ...