Baja California: Holland America line's exploration into the Sea of Cortez.(CRUISE OF THE MONTH)

Cruise Travel | May 1, 2005 | Copyright

About 6 p.m., on a cool and partly cloudy February evening, we charged up to the open Sky Deck aboard Holland America Line's Ryndam, two jaded sunset connoisseurs about to be astounded. An hour earlier. the 1,200-passenger ship had left Loreto, Baja California's historic mission settlement on the Sea of Cortez, and we had sailed south paralleling the jagged and majestic peaks of the Sierra de la Gigante mountain range.

Then, to our amazement, the sun set--not once, but twice. As the calm blue sea began to darken in the fading light, the orange orb dipped behind ...

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